solenoid/transmission/both?
AdamW
11-20-2005, 11:51 AM
My first post. Be gentle. I know relatively little about cars, but have been learning more.
Short background: I blew $1800 for my 1997 Ford Escort (automatic) to pass inspection. 206,000 miles on it already. I was between a rock and a hard place, and felt that was my best option. Struts, muffler, etc... all sorts of stuff.
Well, after that, the Check Engine light comes on. I have it checked out, and they say it's a "Solenoid" - which, until then, I'd never heard of. However, after I leave there, the light goes off. So I ignore it.
Meanwhile, I start having what seems to be transmission problems. Sometimes -- most of the time it's when the car is cold -- there are problems accelerating. It seems to me like the car often has trouble getting into gear. In other words, it's in "Drive" - but feels like I'm in "Neutral" - the engine races, but I don't go anywhere. So far, if I step off the gas, wait a second, and try again, it starts moving - and I slowly build to regular speed. At higher speeds, it's not an issue. And usually after running for a while, it's not an issue.
At the same time, if I stop a little short -- at a red light or something -- the car starts puttering and sometimes stalls. I can usually avoid that by letting off the break slightly, just to give it enough gas not to do that.
My questions are ...
* is all of this related?
* Does the solenoid have anything to do with the problem I described, or is it clearly a transmission problem?
* Is the stalling related?
* What is the Solenoid, and how much danger am I in from driving with a bad Solenoid and the Check Engine light on?
Sorry for the questions. Like I said, I want to learn more -- if nothing else, than perhaps the knowledge will help me save money. I can't afford to keep dumping cash into this puppy.
Short background: I blew $1800 for my 1997 Ford Escort (automatic) to pass inspection. 206,000 miles on it already. I was between a rock and a hard place, and felt that was my best option. Struts, muffler, etc... all sorts of stuff.
Well, after that, the Check Engine light comes on. I have it checked out, and they say it's a "Solenoid" - which, until then, I'd never heard of. However, after I leave there, the light goes off. So I ignore it.
Meanwhile, I start having what seems to be transmission problems. Sometimes -- most of the time it's when the car is cold -- there are problems accelerating. It seems to me like the car often has trouble getting into gear. In other words, it's in "Drive" - but feels like I'm in "Neutral" - the engine races, but I don't go anywhere. So far, if I step off the gas, wait a second, and try again, it starts moving - and I slowly build to regular speed. At higher speeds, it's not an issue. And usually after running for a while, it's not an issue.
At the same time, if I stop a little short -- at a red light or something -- the car starts puttering and sometimes stalls. I can usually avoid that by letting off the break slightly, just to give it enough gas not to do that.
My questions are ...
* is all of this related?
* Does the solenoid have anything to do with the problem I described, or is it clearly a transmission problem?
* Is the stalling related?
* What is the Solenoid, and how much danger am I in from driving with a bad Solenoid and the Check Engine light on?
Sorry for the questions. Like I said, I want to learn more -- if nothing else, than perhaps the knowledge will help me save money. I can't afford to keep dumping cash into this puppy.
AzTumbleweed
11-20-2005, 02:08 PM
As I understand it the 'Check Engine Light' is only for the electronic engine ontrols. So it has nothing to do with the transmission.
Your transmission could be low on ATF or have a dirty filter. (If you are lucky).
What code do you get for the light? May be a 'purge solenoid'.
If a purge solenoid was stuck open I GUESS it would be like a vacuum leak. So that could cause the bad idling but there are a lot of other things that can do that too.
Let us know what happens :worshippy
Your transmission could be low on ATF or have a dirty filter. (If you are lucky).
What code do you get for the light? May be a 'purge solenoid'.
If a purge solenoid was stuck open I GUESS it would be like a vacuum leak. So that could cause the bad idling but there are a lot of other things that can do that too.
Let us know what happens :worshippy
AdamW
11-21-2005, 12:21 AM
As I understand it the 'Check Engine Light' is only for the electronic engine ontrols. So it has nothing to do with the transmission.
Your transmission could be low on ATF or have a dirty filter. (If you are lucky).
What code do you get for the light? May be a 'purge solenoid'.
Thanks. The code is 1744. That's what the mechanic told me. Then he wrote "solenoid part of the valve body" ... so, whatever.
I'm starting to fear the transmission is shot. I guess it wouldn't be unusual for a car with 206,000 on it. But after just plunking down $1800, I'm sure praying that's not the case.
Why would it sometimes not kick into gear, and then other times be fine? And it's only getting into gear from neutral that's the problem - all other gears are OK (for now).
Your transmission could be low on ATF or have a dirty filter. (If you are lucky).
What code do you get for the light? May be a 'purge solenoid'.
Thanks. The code is 1744. That's what the mechanic told me. Then he wrote "solenoid part of the valve body" ... so, whatever.
I'm starting to fear the transmission is shot. I guess it wouldn't be unusual for a car with 206,000 on it. But after just plunking down $1800, I'm sure praying that's not the case.
Why would it sometimes not kick into gear, and then other times be fine? And it's only getting into gear from neutral that's the problem - all other gears are OK (for now).
AzTumbleweed
11-21-2005, 06:13 AM
What you describe is a symptom of low tranny fluid. Have you checked it? Check it hot, engine running in neutral. A dirty filter also would stop ATF from circulating through the transmission.
Davescort97
11-22-2005, 12:04 PM
The codes include the automatic transmission also. Code 1744 is listed as (California only) transaxle slippage detected. I don't know much about automatics. The tranny could be slipping from low fluid pressure from the pump or from worn clutch plates in the clutch packs. Also, an electrical shift solenoid in the valve body could be bad. The valve body controls where the fluid under pressure goes to get a shift. Don't know what to say? Transmission shop?
rbsteve
11-22-2005, 01:04 PM
yeah the check engine light does cover certain transmission problems, but i believe a transmission shop can scan the transmission and pull more specific codes.
When i changed the tranny fluid in my gf's escort this summer, i didnt quite put enough fluid in first time around and it drove exactly as you describe it. It was like the clutch wasnt engaging right away. I believe in an automatic transmission there is a solenoid that activate to engage the wheels when you accelerate and disactivates when you brake to take any strain off the transmission. Also depending on the transmission this part can sometimes be changed from the outside, or by just removing the pan, thus avoiding an expensive replacement.
There is also this product called SeaFoam that you add to your tranny oil that conditions seal, helps it work better, etc. I would first suggest a pan drop and oil change and adding a can of Seafoam when you fill it back up. If this doesnt work, im afraid you are off to the transmission shop.
Steve
When i changed the tranny fluid in my gf's escort this summer, i didnt quite put enough fluid in first time around and it drove exactly as you describe it. It was like the clutch wasnt engaging right away. I believe in an automatic transmission there is a solenoid that activate to engage the wheels when you accelerate and disactivates when you brake to take any strain off the transmission. Also depending on the transmission this part can sometimes be changed from the outside, or by just removing the pan, thus avoiding an expensive replacement.
There is also this product called SeaFoam that you add to your tranny oil that conditions seal, helps it work better, etc. I would first suggest a pan drop and oil change and adding a can of Seafoam when you fill it back up. If this doesnt work, im afraid you are off to the transmission shop.
Steve
J-bo
12-01-2005, 04:46 PM
I'm havin the same exact transmission problem with mine. I took it into the shop and the guy told me I need a whole new transmission. wants to charge me 1500 for it. Haven't decided yet. I'll let ya know the outcome and what the real problem was if he was bullsh*ttin me or not.
Jim
Jim
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