I tried searching the Forum with that function, and had no luck...

I just purchased a 1993 Lumina with a 3.1L...literally, a little old lady owned it and it was sold to me by her Family when she went into the nursing home. The engine and interior are VERY clean, but it's obvious VERY little routine maintenance was done under the hood.

I have a CEL that lit right after I bought it, and I figured, I would check the EGR, PCV valve and clean out the Intake manifold by finding a vacuum line to shoot some Intake cleaner in to "decarbon" the engine. My only problem is:

1) the car came with NO owners manual
2) I have a scematic that evidently a hyperactive monkey wrote on the radiator support that doesn't really SHOW where everything is. Also, anyway to "adjust" the MAP? This is the first car I've owned with a MAP rather than a MAF sensor...

Anyone have any pictures as to where the EGR and PCV are located, and are there "typical" things (ie. coil pack) that fail to cuase a CEL? I'm assuming Autozone can read it for free, but the closest one is a 40 minute drive...any help would be great!! :icon16:

Get the codes ran, and you'll have an idea of what the problem is. Guessing gets you nowhere but broke fast.

if its a 93, its an OBD1, and you can read the codes yourself by just jumping the two connectors in the top row all the way to the right of the obd1 connector located just above the drivers knees. Wow, what a mouthfull. The service engine soon light will flash according to the code. For instance code 12 is normal. for 12, it would go: flash pause flash flash, indicating 12. For 33 it would: flash flash flash pause flash flash flash. Once you recieve your code(s), post them here, and I or someone else will be able to help you decipher them.

Yes, trying to replace stuff without tracking it down with a scanner first can be pricey, but I figure the EGR and PCV would need to be replaceed (along with O2 sensors) after awhile anyway.

When you say "jump" what do you mean? Like, take a piece of wire and connect the first and last male connectors in the diagnostic slot together? OBD1....wow.....feels like the "stone age"LOL

if its a 93, its an OBD1, and you can read the codes yourself by just jumping the two connectors in the top row all the way to the right of the obd1 connector located just above the drivers knees. Wow, what a mouthfull. The service engine soon light will flash according to the code. For instance code 12 is normal. for 12, it would go: flash pause flash flash, indicating 12. For 33 it would: flash flash flash pause flash flash flash. Once you recieve your code(s), post them here, and I or someone else will be able to help you decipher them.

I'm such a dummy :smile:

I used a cotter pin, and I believe the reading is a 12 as it EXACTLY follows the description above for 12....I actually had it cycle a few times, just to make sure it was correct and there weren't any codes lurking....OK....there's no other codes being flashed, but the CEL is still on, what does that mean?

Try doing an ECM reset and clear it, then see if it comes back.

If that car has rear disc brakes, assume they are junk. Get it checked before you find out they don't work while going down an icy hill...:eek7:

No, no MAP adjust on this one. You must be used to Toyotas or something?

I'm such a dummy :smile:

I used a cotter pin, and I believe the reading is a 12 as it EXACTLY follows the description above for 12....I actually had it cycle a few times, just to make sure it was correct and there weren't any codes lurking....OK....there's no other codes being flashed, but the CEL is still on, what does that mean?

Hmmm....ECM reset....got it....actually, I was thinking about MAP sensors with my friends "old" 88 5.0L mustang.....The brakes are actually in very good shape :smile:

What should I do if it doesn't clear it?

It'll clear it, I'm just curious to see if it comes back. Might be nothing...

My '97's CEL came on a couple of years ago, and was on steady for about 6 months, I just ignored it, because all was normal.

Then during a trip from here (St Louis) down to Texarkana, I had her turned loose at about 95 mph for a long stretch, and the light went out.

It stayed gone for about 3-4 months, and came back. I tried the same drill, and sure enough, after 5-6 miles at 90+, it went out.

This pattern continued for about 2 years. Then one night someone stole my gas cap. I bought a new one, and the light hasn't come on since. That was back in about March.

Go figure.

It'll clear it, I'm just curious to see if it comes back. Might be nothing...

Ummm...do I just disconnect the ECU? I figured I would just leave things as they are. The car had been sitting for awhile, so I figued I'd "clean" the TB, EGR, change the PCV, flush the coolant systemdecarbon the motor and change the oil. I took a look at the plugs and wires and aren't going toplay with those....yet :grinno:


The CEL's on my 86' IROC were very similar.....they came and went with no rhyme or reason.

New gas cap made it go away?? Geez, maybe I should change that and the fuel filter while I'm at it...that is by the fuel tank in the back right?

yup, you can see it if you go under the car. you will see the little round cylinder thing. Fuel filter :D

On yours just powering down the ECM for a few minutes should clear it, you can pull the ECM fuse(s) in the fuse box, or disconnect the battery, either way leave it like that for 30 mins or so, and the ECM's memory will fade out.

You will probably have to do an idle relearn after that, there is a pinned thread at the top of the front page with detailed (overly) instructions on how to do it.

The way I always did it in the shop, reconnect power, start engine and put in gear. Set parking brake and block wheels, or put it against a good curb stop, wall, whatever, and let it run at idle until the radiator fans come on. Then take it for a drive and make sure the idle is stable.

yours is OBD1 and I doubt a gascap would make your light go away. Code 12 is perfectally normal, which makes no sence as to why the light would be steady on. Try disconnecting the negative battery cable for a few minutes, and hit the brake. This should cleare everything, but rememeber, if you do this, you will more than likely have to do an idle relearn, cause your car will run like crap. You should be able to find the procedures for that somehwere in this forum. I know it was stickied a little bit ago, but dont know if it still is.

oh, my god jeff, your post was not there when I typed mine, so very sorry, dont mean to step on toes here.

oh, my god jeff, your post was not there when I typed mine, so very sorry, dont mean to step on toes here.

That's no problem, I forgot OBD I doesn't sense gas tank integrity anyway...

oh, my god jeff, your post was not there when I typed mine, so very sorry, dont mean to step on toes here.
Thanks guys! I found the fuel filter, but cannot find the PCV...Oh well. Here's the wierd thing...I decarboned the engine, and the CEL went off for a little while, and then came back on AFTER the car warmed up....Any thoughts? All I get is 12 over and over again

That's no problem, I forgot OBD I doesn't sense gas tank integrity anyway...
Well, the car failed inspection due to some rusted out tie rod ends, so the shop I purchased it from will run the codes while their at it.

Your PCV valve is located on the rear valve cover(closest to windshield).

Well, the car failed inspection due to some rusted out tie rod ends, so the shop I purchased it from will run the codes while their at it.

Tie rod ends rust locked? Dayum...it did do some sitting around, huh?:eek7:

I had a customer in her 90's with a 1974 Chevy Chevelle her husband bought before he died....in 1977 :eek:

She didn't have a driver's license. Had NEVER had one. The car had 16,800 original. The only time it EVER got used was when her son and family came to town for holidays. That's the only reason she kept it, so they didn't have to rent a car while there. The rest of the year it sat there in her garage.

I'd have to go get it with the tow truck for it's yearly oil change and inspection, and there'd always be something wrong with it that you'd never see on any car.

Like the brake proportioning valve siezing. One time it wouldn't stay running. Had a huge birds nest in the muffler, choked it up. Mice ate the harness for the headlights once. Tires got permanently flat spotted from sitting in one position with low air for 12 months. Couldn't run the lumps outta them (I tried). Fuel pump diaphragm would split and pump fuel into the crankcase about every other year. U joints got so stiff and dry, they started sqeaking like bedsprings when it was moving. Went to slow down while pulling it around the building to bring it inside, and the wheel cylinders in the rear brakes blew out:rofl: Whee! No brakes!

Oh, and a new battery, every year....

That's no problem, I forgot OBD I doesn't sense gas tank integrity anyway...

Here's what happened....I brought the car in for inspection, only to get a Safety failure (i.e. front tie rod and bushings were shot) and then have the e-brake lock up AFTER the test was performed.

The shop I bought it from replaced the following:
1) Vacuum hoses-to MAP and EGR (code is gone)
2) new rear brakes and rotors
3) new front suspension parts

cost of parts: 225$

cost to me:0$$!!!!

They have a guarantee that the car will pass inspection, or it will be repaired to pass inspection for free!!

Here's what happened....I brought the car in for inspection, only to get a Safety failure (i.e. front tie rod and bushings were shot) and then have the e-brake lock up AFTER the test was performed.

The shop I bought it from replaced the following:
1) Vacuum hoses-to MAP and EGR (code is gone)
2) new rear brakes and rotors
3) new front suspension parts

cost of parts: 225$

cost to me:0$$!!!!

They have a guarantee that the car will pass inspection, or it will be repaired to pass inspection for free!!


OK....now I have a code 32....WTF??????

I believe code 32 has to do with your EGR system.

I tried searching the Forum with that function, and had no luck...

I just purchased a 1993 Lumina with a 3.1L...literally, a little old lady owned it and it was sold to me by her Family when she went into the nursing home. The engine and interior are VERY clean, but it's obvious VERY little routine maintenance was done under the hood.

I have a CEL that lit right after I bought it, and I figured, I would check the EGR, PCV valve and clean out the Intake manifold by finding a vacuum line to shoot some Intake cleaner in to "decarbon" the engine. My only problem is:

1) the car came with NO owners manual
2) I have a scematic that evidently a hyperactive monkey wrote on the radiator support that doesn't really SHOW where everything is. Also, anyway to "adjust" the MAP? This is the first car I've owned with a MAP rather than a MAF sensor...

Anyone have any pictures as to where the EGR and PCV are located, and are there "typical" things (ie. coil pack) that fail to cuase a CEL? I'm assuming Autozone can read it for free, but the closest one is a 40 minute drive...any help would be great!! :icon16:

I would invest in a haynes manual. They are only 15 bucks and will be a life saver.