Please Help! My Driver's Side Power Window is Stuck DOWN

My Driver's side switches operate the rear windows, but not the front passenger side. Until a few hours ago it operated my driver's side window too but now its stuck about 2/3 of the way up and wont close completely. I'm no mechanic. Its November...I would rather put this off until the spring if I could just get the window up, which I cannot do manually despite pulling to the point where I fear I'll break the window. Is there a temporary fix to this?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
George

Welcome to AF!

Try this, remove the switch for the window and touch the two wires together on the side where it makes the window go up. If the switch is bad this should at least let you get the window up. If you cause the window to go down instead just go to the other contact terminal.

If you find you have no power then jumper a wire either from the fuse box or battery to allow you to do this.

This may sound pretty stupid, but have you tried pressing the switch down really hard? My Intrepid and Century both had power loss in the windows, but when they stuck I could always get the windows to roll up or down by pressing down very hard on the switch. I also got a co-worker's window upo by doing this after she swore there was no way to get the window up. Good luck.

This may sound pretty stupid, but have you tried pressing the switch down really hard? My Intrepid and Century both had power loss in the windows, but when they stuck I could always get the windows to roll up or down by pressing down very hard on the switch. I also got a co-worker's window upo by doing this after she swore there was no way to get the window up. Good luck.


No no...I've tried that too in the past and its seems like that's worked before. Once in a while there will be a window that won't go up or down but never before has it gotten stuck in the middle. I wen't to a mechanic today and we pulled off the door panel and the switch and the motor are ok but the wire (Regulator?) is broke. This, he told me does not come seperate from the motor which costs $310.00. He said he'd do it for that plus an hour's labor at $80.00.

Does anyone know if the Regulator (from the little I understand this is the wire that actually pulls the window up and down) can be obtained without buying the whole motor. Does anyone think fixing this for $390.00 is a good, bad, or average deal?

Thanks

Try the local wrecking yard you can probably get everything you need for less than $50. Install it yourself or have the mechanic do it. Will cost a whole lot less than a new part and the labor cost will be exactly the same.

I had same problem in my 2000 Century. Being a cheapskate at heart, I was able to repair the motor/regulator assy. The end of the operating cable fastens to a plastic part attached to the bottom of the window. You can remove everything so you don't have to work on it inside the door. Pay attention to the motor orientation before you remove it. I drilled a couple of tiny holes on each side of the the cable near where it used to fasten to the (broken) plastic part. Then wrapped a couple peices of bailing wire around the cable to secure it. The real challenge was getting the cable wrapped properly around the spool and everything back under tension. If anybody does this, don't forget to put a little more grease on the cable guides. What a cheap unit. Made to fail! And they said bailing wire only works on old tractors..... 3 months and so far so good for me.

Thanks very much,

I found I could get the motor and regulator used for about $90.00 and I'm gonna try and have someone (mechanic) do it if the price is right. I got it temporarily up and "relatively" secure so I'm not in a rush now. Thanks again!

I had same problem in my 2000 Century. Being a cheapskate at heart, I was able to repair the motor/regulator assy. The end of the operating cable fastens to a plastic part attached to the bottom of the window. You can remove everything so you don't have to work on it inside the door. Pay attention to the motor orientation before you remove it. I drilled a couple of tiny holes on each side of the the cable near where it used to fasten to the (broken) plastic part. Then wrapped a couple peices of bailing wire around the cable to secure it. The real challenge was getting the cable wrapped properly around the spool and everything back under tension. If anybody does this, don't forget to put a little more grease on the cable guides. What a cheap unit. Made to fail! And they said bailing wire only works on old tractors..... 3 months and so far so good for me.