Crankshaft Postition Sensor replacement procedure?

I see a lot of the problems with the bonneville pointing to the crankshaft sensor. Looking in a chilton's, it looks pretty difficult to access, remove and replace correctly. My question is this: The book says you need a special tool to put the sensor in the right position.... is there a way around having a tool like this?

This depends on the year, (which as usual is not mentioned, nothing personal, but this is a chronic problem on these forums)

This depends on the year, (which as usual is not mentioned, nothing personal, but this is a chronic problem on these forums)

It's a 92 w/o the blower

Go to autozone.com/repairinfo, pics there are better than my explanation.

Go to autozone.com/repairinfo, pics there are better than my explanation.

The info autozone has is identical to the info I have in a chiltons book. It even lists the wrong size socket to get the balancer bolt out.

OMG, I am so ready to call a towtruck and tell them to take this pontiac to the junkyard. After 2 hours of fighting with the crankshaft bolt and using a 3/4" drive impact gun the bolt finally came out. Now, I just get back with a puller set that is supposedly for the harmonic damper on the bonneville and all the bolts in it are too big. Judging by the tiny size of the threaded holes that are supposed to be used for the puller bolts, I would be surprised to see the puller get that pulley off there with those tiny bolts supporting the puller.

For those of you that have taken the harmonic damper off there, you had to use a puller right?

Yes should be 6mm 3" bolts to fit the damper, also make sure the puller comes with or use a thrust bolt or spacer in the crank snout for the puller to work against. Not being a wise guy here, but sometimes these repairs are somewhat complex for a home job.

I just replaced mine maxwedge is correct, it takes smaller bolts but came off relatively easy once I started tightning the puller..Its pressed on but not too tight..

Unbelievable.... after replacing even the crank sensor, the car still decides to do the ding ding ding and then die crap!

The only codes it throws are 22 - low throttle position sensor voltage
65 - cruise servo position sensor circuit

After working on this car for 4 days, I just cannot believe this...

Does anybody know what could be the problem please?

Ok guess work over, do you have spark and or injector pulse when it won't start. How much fuel pressure at the rail? will it start with carb cleaner sprayed into the intake? The codes won't stop this from starting. Give us a full explanation of what is happening.

Ok guess work over, do you have spark and or injector pulse when it won't start. How much fuel pressure at the rail? will it start with carb cleaner sprayed into the intake? The codes won't stop this from starting. Give us a full explanation of what is happening.

Ok, the car will be running perfectly up until about 15-20 min of driving. At that point, the check engine light will show up. Shortly thereafter, the car will make a "ding, ding, ding" and die when coming to a stop. It starts right up after this happens, almost like it never happened.

The fuel pressure is 35psi at an idle and over 40 when the key is cycled to ignition. The pressure looks steady while it is running. It's really hard to monitor the car for the situation to arise, since it only happens when slowing down from driving.

Another thing I noticed is that I took it on the freeway yesterday and the CEL would light up for a couple seconds and then dissapear, and repeat this over and over again at highway speeds. Also, every time the CEL would come on, the car would kick down from overdrive into 3rd. It also did not downshift when I came to a stop since the CEL was on and forced the car to start out in high gear. I shut off the car and restarted it and it ran perfectly again until I got home.

Any ideas ?

Get it scanned and post back the codes, they will be in history if not a present code.

The only two codes are 22 and 65.

What tells the difference between current and stored codes while reading them?

A low voltage signal from the TPS can cause your car to stall and or not start. The incorrect signal from the TPS will throw off the computers fuel and timing calculations (making it think you are more or less on the gas than you actually are). If you haven't changed your TPS, do so, reset your computer and see if your problem goes away.

I replaced the TPS with no luck and the code is still there (tps low voltage)

Yes should be 6mm 3" bolts to fit the damper .

OK I just tried my electric DeWalt 1/2 impact, then 1/2" air impact, then jumping on torque bar ..rather bow..., then electric 3/4" impact....still no joy...and finally 3/4" pneumatic impact.....and I got that bolt out....*$?%&$*%&$*

Just bought a "harmonic balancer pulller" and proved, as others said, it did not come with proper size of bolts... just to test I tried 1/4" bolts coarse thread into the holes ...just tried with my fingertips but it seemed they were not the exact size...will go one turn and that's all...so I used them anyway...they went far enough to provide enough strength to pull the balancer out, using proper technique.. hammering on the main puller bold, then tighten again...then hammer...and it came.
ONce removed I saw the 1/4" bolts (low quality) had formed to match the threads of the balancer. Tested with a tap and in fact proved 6mm diameter with 1mm thread .

But--to terminate it all--changed the crank position sensor....to no avail. Wants to start..then stalls and that's all . Lots of spark! No fuel. Hear the pump...will check pressure next.
As suggested at the beginning of this thread, there were several signs that could have been sensor related....even the GM book matched the symptoms ...anyway when I find some time, I"ll finish the job....that's all for now....

The oil pressure sending unit, if bad, will cause the car to stall and not trip a CEL or code. There is a safety feature built in that will kill power to the fuel pump and ignition module if the oil pressure reading drops below 4psi at idle.

Same trouble for me and my '95. 6mm bolts were too small I ended up geting 1/4 bolts with a 28:1 thread. Worked fine. Probably messed up the threads in the Harmonic Balancer but I'll only need to remove it one more time anyway

i'm having the same issues with my 1995 bonneville driving down the road it will suddenly drop voltage and the buzzer (the same one as when the fuel is low) goes off and the car dies for a second and then catches itself and keeps going and the CEl comes on. but if it's idling it ussually stalls out. i tried replacing the IAC and TPS sensors and no change i checked all the gronds also.