Stuck Distibutor

Hey Guys,

I'm in the process of changing my intake manifold gasket. The last step is to remove the distrbutor so the manifold will clear. I removed the dist's hold down bolt, but it wont budge. What am I doing wrong?

Thanks in advance,

Pyro

They never just pull right up.

Make sure that there isn't another bolt catching the base, and then you'll have to turn it back and forth while lifting it for it to come out.

Mark where everything is pointing before you do any of this, and have a timing light ready.

Thanks For the Quick Reply OverBoard,

I tried to rotate it while lifting but it seams to tight, I have to use a big wrench just to get it rotate a little, and I can't see any other bolts in the way.

Pyro

if its broke free from the intake, take time and be calm, turn, wiggle and pull, if its not, get a thin piece of metal, and tap it with a hammer at the base to break it off of the intake, just dont be too rough with it

The motor is a 2.8L V6. The intake manifold lifts free, so I think the distributor is attached to the block????????

I am going to try tapping the base and use a little liquid wrench to boot.

Pyro

i didnt ask about the intake manifold, does the distributor base lift from the intake manifold, because i can guarentee you are not attached to the block, the dizzy cant spin freely and is catching on the gear at the bottum, it must be freed from the intake first

The distributor base does not lift at all.

Pyro

is it vertical in the back or horizontal off the cam?

Vertical in the back, hard to see whats going on down there.

Pyro

then it needs to come out of the intake and block without removing the intake first, you must break the dizzy free from the intake manifold... if it dont come off bring it to a shop because its suppose to, trust me

A bit of a pain, but tru spraying in some penetrating oil, it should move without too much problems.

I've never tried lifting a manifold off without taking the distributer off, and I don't know if it'll work

it breaks (comes off how it should) on the same deck surface as the dizzy hold down bolt is on

thanks for the help guys.

The manifolds lifts up easy, but bumps the distributor. I need to lift the distributor about 1" and the manifolds will come off.

I'll let it soak with liqiud wrench over night and try it again. After all this motor does have 180,000 miles on it. I'll just take my time.

pyro

its still going to need pryed out of place most likly

I tried to pry it out, but I did not put to much pressure on it, I'll try a little harder tomorrow.

Pyro

hammer, and a flat head or preferably a putty knife

smart man Pyro.

Prying could damage something.

There are 3 points of contact.
the intake manifold
the oil pump
and the gears on the cam shaft.

It can't possibly be stuck to the gears or the motor would never turn over.

There is a small chance that it's stuck in the oil pump, but with that much oil in there it isn't likely

So that just leaves the manifold.
Good quality penetrating oil should help for this one

Thanks dmbrisket,


it finely broke loose with a little more pressure.

Now I fined myself with another obsticle. the intake manifold gasket weaves through the push rods. Is it possible to just cut the gasket where it goes under the rods? it looks as if it seals nothing there.

Thanks again,

Pyro

I wouldn't.
It's pretty easy o re-adjust the valves, so just take the push rodds out.

Adjust the valves the same way as you wood a 350.

I know, do it right the first time.

I was just thowing it out there to see if anyone has done it with success.

Pyro

Well it's alot of work, and I bought a kit so I don't know how much those gaskets cost but they might be expensive.

And if you do it right it'll last for another 7 years or so

The kit i bought was about $23, not to bad but it didn't come with rocker cover gaskets.

My plan was to be done tonight. I'll have to change that to Sunday.
I just hope my wife understands being that it is our 10 year anniversary Friday.

Thanks for the help Overboard.

Pyro

That's not a bad price, and happy anniversary pyro.

I kinda think that if you can afford it your wife would love a limo ride anyways. So it might be an easy one to fix.

But then again not too many of us can afford a limo very often.

Good idea, a limo might be the ticket.
I just have to see how much they go for here in Dallas.

I do have another car so i'm not stranded.

Pyro

ok, sorry to tell ya but you have to loosen the rockers (just loosen no removal neccicary) and pull the push rods out.... BE EXTREAMLY CAREFUL, some generus moter vehicals have different sized push rods, i suggest marking a 2x4 with front, putting that towards the front of the moter, with holes already pre drilled half way through put the rods in as they come out... then remove the gasket, clean it well with a rag with break parts cleaner on it, then put the new gasket on it, and reinstall the pushrods.

A left and right side rod holder/organizer sold only take about 10 minutes to make, but will probably save an hour of second guessing.

Done deal.

thanks DM,

Pyro

A left and right side rod holder/organizer should only take about 10 minutes to make, but will probably save an hour of second guessing.

Done deal.

thanks DM,

Pyro

sorry, had a typo above.

^^^ lot longer then that if you mess it up and they are different sizes, get the callipers out and find a michel on demand... it wont be fun, and it only takes ten min if you have to run to lows and get the wood still

The motor is a 2.8L V6. The intake manifold lifts free, so I think the distributor is attached to the block????????

I am going to try tapping the base and use a little liquid wrench to boot.

Pyro

The distributor on the 2.8L v6 IS NOT attached at all to the intake manifold. You can remove the inteake without removing the distributor.

When you have the intake loose, you have to lift the intake,twist it a bit and pull it towards the front of the engine. You cannot lift it straight up with the distributor in, but there is no reason to remove the distributor. I have just finished swapping a 87 2.8L motors in my truck and left the distributor in place when switching intakes.

DO NOT try and force the distributor out, you will cause more problems if you are rough with it.

I will try and get a picture tonight and post it on how to remove the intake. If you can, wait till then.

Just thought of something Pyro.

When your removing the push rods count the number of turns on the adjuster required to remove it. Then right that number down beside the push rod in the 2x4.
Every one will have a different amount of turns depending on where it is in the compression stroke.

Then tighten it back up that many turns. The valves will already be adjusted this way.

Just thought of something Pyro.

When your removing the push rods count the number of turns on the adjuster required to remove it. Then right that number down beside the push rod in the 2x4.
Every one will have a different amount of turns depending on where it is in the compression stroke.

Then tighten it back up that many turns. The valves will already be adjusted this way.
2.8l doesnt require adjustment, just tighten them down untill the valve quits then give it a 90 degree turn to snug it tight

Now I fined myself with another obsticle. the intake manifold gasket weaves through the push rods. Is it possible to just cut the gasket where it goes under the rods? it looks as if it seals nothing there.



What will happen if the intake gaskets are cut?

On my recent 2.8L re-build, the existing intake gaskets were cut at the pushrods, so I just re-installed them that way. I am going to put the motor back in this weekend and may have to replace those cut gaskets if it will harm the motor.

Some advice please?

BS dmbrisket.

It's the same procedure as a Chevy 350.

I built my 2.8L, so I should know.

Pyro, See for yourself. Try tightening 1 rocker i turn and you'll see that it will still turn
You can probably even see some threads under it.

I tried looking the procedure up on google, but don't have all day to prove it to some people.

Don't know Dugie.

It really might work, and since the work is already done I think that you should just try it.

It's not too hard to pull the intake off. Although I sure hope that you don't have to.

Don't know if you re-built your motor yourself, but if you did do you mind telling Pyro if you had to adjust the valves.

No I did not re-build it myself. Traded some a 4 speed manual trans for a re-built 87 2.8L (bottom end and heads). Guy just wanted it out of his garage and I was looking for a good "spare" motor. So I don't know how to adjust the pushrods.

Dumb luck on my part !!!!

I will look through my books tonight and see if they tell me how to adjust them. And I'll post my results (if any!!!).

Good trade, good for you. You got a good deal there.

I was wondering why you didn't drop in a 3.1l or a 3.4l.

I wish that I would have known they are basicly that same as a 2.8L (only better) instead of having re-built mine.

I was wondering why you didn't drop in a 3.1l or a 3.4l.


I got for FREE ... that's why !!!! :thumbsup:

Seeing this is the last truck I will ever own, because I have basically redone everything on it (plus some more goodies !!!) and it is dirt cheap to fix, replace parts and body. I probably will look into a new 3.4L when this current 2.8L bites it; or maybe even a complete 4.3L swap. But I hope that will be a few years down the road.

P.S. - I didn't go out to the garage last night, so I didn't check on the pushrod question. I will be out there this weekend.

to the push rod question, its a matter of figguring out which valves are closed when and tightening them down from there... and my appologies to obp, didnt realize the truck was 20 years old, anything from gm (yes including a 350 small block) seince like 95 or 6, you dont need to adjust the valves, you follow my directions given earlyer

Accepted Doug.

I guess that all first gen's are getting pretty old now. :rolleyes:
I think that the 60 degrree motors changed to non adjusting valves when they started making the 3.1L