86 Caprice Classic
WRENCHIT1
10-20-2005, 12:14 PM
Couple of simple questions , 1. Anyone know where to get a new dashboard, mines cracked all over ? Is it hard to replace?
2. i get code 23 with the check engine light (mixing solonoid) , Is this hard to replace? (car is carberated).
3.Anyone kown an easy way to bleed air out of the heater core, the heat is nothing to brag about and winter is comming.
thanks all for your help
2. i get code 23 with the check engine light (mixing solonoid) , Is this hard to replace? (car is carberated).
3.Anyone kown an easy way to bleed air out of the heater core, the heat is nothing to brag about and winter is comming.
thanks all for your help
silicon212
10-21-2005, 12:41 AM
#1 - Good luck finding one that's not cracked. GM discontinued them some years back, and they were going for $450ish. If you look hard enough, you can find one though - they are out there somewhere. I got one from an '88 for my own '88 at Ecology Auto Parts for $35 a year ago - it's flawless. Best part was, it was the correct color too! (Tanish brown, someone mentioned "peanut butter"). There are a bunch of screws along the bottom at the front (closest to you as you sit in the car), one on each side and 2 inside each heater/defrost duct. It comes off easily. Note - when you're scouring the junkyards looking for one, it doesn't have to be from an '86 - any dash cover from 1977-1990 will work.
#2 - the MC solenoid is inside the carb (when you look at the top, the connector is the one on the lower left, above the fuel inlet. You have to remove the air horn to get to it. Before you tear it all apart, ensure there is a good electrical connection at the connector itself. Fuel and oil can and does get in there and over time (despite the WP connectors), lead to problems. If there was a short in the line, you will likely need to replace the computer too.
#3 - there is no need to bleed out the heater core. Water is blasted into there under pressure directly from the water pump, and is not high enough in relation to the engine or cooling system to require a bleed. If your heater is not correctly working, make sure the bypass valve is operational with vacuum as required, to ensure water properly flows through the heater core. Also make sure you have a 185-190 degree thermostat. If you're in a colder climate, your engine might not be running hot enough to supply ample energy to the heater. The thermostat determines the minimum cooling system temperature when the car is warmed up.
#2 - the MC solenoid is inside the carb (when you look at the top, the connector is the one on the lower left, above the fuel inlet. You have to remove the air horn to get to it. Before you tear it all apart, ensure there is a good electrical connection at the connector itself. Fuel and oil can and does get in there and over time (despite the WP connectors), lead to problems. If there was a short in the line, you will likely need to replace the computer too.
#3 - there is no need to bleed out the heater core. Water is blasted into there under pressure directly from the water pump, and is not high enough in relation to the engine or cooling system to require a bleed. If your heater is not correctly working, make sure the bypass valve is operational with vacuum as required, to ensure water properly flows through the heater core. Also make sure you have a 185-190 degree thermostat. If you're in a colder climate, your engine might not be running hot enough to supply ample energy to the heater. The thermostat determines the minimum cooling system temperature when the car is warmed up.
Automotive Network, Inc., Copyright ©2024