I have a 1994 Blazer S10 2WD, 140K miles. I know what the problem is, I just can't really tell how difficult it is to replace (spring will cause a major prob?). I can push up and down and hear the squeak and see the problem.

On the drivers side there is a piece which I believe is called the A frame (top). Two pivot points towards the engine and one side that goes to the wheel joint. The two pivot points have a long rod with rubber on each side that allow the A frame (and thus the wheel) to go up and down. Well the rubber on one side is broken and thus the rod is scraping on the A frame "hole". So I need to replace the rubber, but I'm not sure how much I have to undo to replace it (just the rubber?). Does the spring cause a problem? etc. etc. It is harder to get to than the passenger side but it looks like I can take the bolt off the end, but can I just slip in new rubber or will I have to take off enough stuff to then make the spring cause me difficulty?

I have searched but not found anything that really describes how tough it is to replace. Let me know if I missed something in the description. Thanks...

Usually the control arm (A frame) must be removed to do this. The bushings usually must be pressed into the arm, (by a machine shop) because they are compressible and require a snug fit.
Removing the arm can be hazardous. The spring must be compressed using a spring compressor, then the shock removed and the steering knuckle separated at the lower ball joint.

The spring is under great tension. If you attempt to remove the control arm at either end, without using a spring compressor, the spring might fly out of its location at great speed and kill you.

Its sound like your upper controls arm bushings are bad. If thats the case. Its really not that hard to replace. after jacking up the car, remove the tire. Place a floor jack under the lower control arm and raise it about half an inch. Now you need to remove the brake hydrealic lines that are bolted to the upper control arm. Now you need to pop the upper ball joint. You should use a ball joint removing tool that way you won't rip the boot on the joint and you can reuse them. I would recommend just replacing the upper balljoint if you still have the original one in. They cost around $20. each. Once the upper ball joint is disconnected from the upper control arm. Swing the upper control amr up and you will see 2 bolds going through the upper control arm rod. From inside the engine compartment you'll need to un-screw the 2 nuts that are attached to those 2 bolds. Also make sure the the shims that are attached to the bolts are not mixed up. You'll need to put the shims back on the same bolts so that your alinement doesn't go off. I can't remember what size nuts they were.They mit be 17mm. Once you have the nuts off and the shims set aside. slide the upper control arm toward the engine to clear the bolts and remove from the underside. If you can't clear the bolts like I couldn't. Place the nuts back on the bolts and tap them with a hammer and it will push back. Remove the nuts again and you'll be able to remove the upper control arm assembly. Now comes the fun part. I placed my control arm in a vise and used a torch and heated up old bushings. Then from the inside of the control arm hammered them out. They'll fall out after about 5 good hits. Now if your going to replace your ball joint. You would go ahead and from it now and install the new one. To install the new control amr bushings. I placed the control arm back n the vise. Got a 47mm socket and placed it over the new bushings and hammered the first one into place. Flip the control arm around in the vise and slide the control arm rod into the new bushing that is installed on the control arm. Place the other side bushing over the rod and again using the 47mm socket. hammer into place. Now tour ready to install it back into your car. Just reverse the process of removing.

Thanks Gabe25

I finally started it yesterday and its all done. Your directions were spot on and made it go very well.

Dave

Don't forget to get it aligned . Rob

Thanks Gabe25

I finally started it yesterday and its all done. Your directions were spot on and made it go very well.

Dave

Glad to of helped. I trust that was the problem. As RMbodie said," Don't forget to have it aligned". Other wise you'll start to waer your tires out real fast. One more thing. I hope you greased the front end completly while you were under there.

Replaced the Idler Arm too, greased everything, and got it aligned yesterday. The front end is now in good shape.

Thanks...

Good Job!!!!!!!!!!!!!