I have a 2001 F150 XL and i am having trouble with 1st gear and reverse. If I put it into any other gear first then try first or reverse it will go right in no problem also if I push the clutch in for about 4 seconds and then try and put it in gear it will go right away. Any light on this problem would be greatly apreciated. I have talked to everyone that i know and no one knows much about manual transmissions.

I am having a similar problem on my 92 F150. I can get to reverse if I go into a couple other gears first, then it goes right in. I am extremely new to manuals (3 weeks now) and this is a project truck of mine, so I don't drive it all the time by any means.

its a manual tranny .. what do you expect, nothing's perfect. try changing the trans oil ... sometimes that helps free things up. other than that... i don't know. its a truck not a car, i wouldn't expect it to shift perfectly. another trick is to leave it in neutral, let the clutch out, then put it back in and see if it goes back into gear.

I understand that it is a manual and that it is not going to be perfect all the time. But i am not new to driving sticks and this is not the way it should be shifting. I am thinking that the synchronizer is messed up and just for fyi i had the tranny fluid drained and the fluid was fine and had no shavings or bad discoloration.

its just the truck tranny man, mine does it, like if i pull up on a slant espeacially, i have to let it roll back a few feet then it will slip right into reverse, or if i put it in first and creep a few feet it goes right in, but it will do it on flat ground as well, it juss.....ahhh... like if u have it in N then go to put it in a gear it will caz the tranny has to turn a lil to open all the gears again... u guys understand this at all?? lol

The trans should shift into gear smoothly at any given time.(Well maybe not from high gear at 60 to reverse.) It could be a simple adjustment of the clutch to tearing the trans apart and looking for any binding parts. We do not deal with many standard shifts,but this is definately not normal.

not to be an ass... but i think ur name way2old.... says enough...

You can be an ass. No problem. My name, way2old, means I have seen a lot more than you have and have many years working on Fords. May I have some of the credentials you have to make you so good on manual transmissions? Other than the old one you drive that "Does the same thing". So you can disregard any of my posts if you wish. Along the same lines, I will ignore any of yours. So enjoy the forums.

Thank you both for your posts. I think i am just gonna have to take it in i just really dont fell like getting ripped off. If anyone else has any insight it would be apreciated.

check the clutch fluid it uses dot 3 brake fluid

The clutch fluid is full and i drained the tranny.

I have a 2001 F150 XL and i am having trouble with 1st gear and reverse. If I put it into any other gear first then try first or reverse it will go right in no problem also if I push the clutch in for about 4 seconds and then try and put it in gear it will go right away. Any light on this problem would be greatly apreciated. I have talked to everyone that i know and no one knows much about manual transmissions.
This,( and blackdragon258s) , sounds more like a clutch problem, than a trans. problem. Make sure youre pushing the pedal all the way to the floor, and the floormat isnt keeping it from doing so. This problem can be caused by the clutch not releasing completely, allowing the input shaft on the trans to keep turning, making it more difficult to put in gear from a stop. You didnt mention whether it shifts ok once underway? These clutches are hydraulic, with little or no adjustment. Have the clutch checked, before you let someone sell you a trans. Happy motoring

This,( and blackdragon258s) , sounds more like a clutch problem, than a trans. problem. Make sure youre pushing the pedal all the way to the floor, and the floormat isnt keeping it from doing so. This problem can be caused by the clutch not releasing completely, allowing the input shaft on the trans to keep turning, making it more difficult to put in gear from a stop. You didnt mention whether it shifts ok once underway? These clutches are hydraulic, with little or no adjustment. Have the clutch checked, before you let someone sell you a trans. Happy motoring
As with most manual transmissions you have what they call gear rollover, which pertains to the amount of time it may take the internal components of the transmission to slow down to engage a startup shift. Some show more than others. Several causes for excess shift resistance could be high mileage, contaminated or improper trans. fluid, low fluid level in trans., improper clutch rod adjustment on old style, air or contaminated fluid in hydraulic system, worn pedal and/or pushrod bushings, sticking or binding pilot bushing or bearing, sticking or binding clutch disc to input shaft, sticking synchronizers, weak pressure plate and as always the usual check of driver opration.

Again thank you for the replys. The truck will shift fine once i am underway it only acts up from a dead stop. The clutch is all the way to the floor and there is nothing in the way of it. I am starting to lean towards a bad clutch plate. I am going to replace it myself next week by putting in a new plate and thro out bearing and will let you know if that was my problem hopefully it can help someone with a similar problem. Thanks.

Again thank you for the replys. The truck will shift fine once i am underway it only acts up from a dead stop. The clutch is all the way to the floor and there is nothing in the way of it. I am starting to lean towards a bad clutch plate. I am going to replace it myself next week by putting in a new plate and thro out bearing and will let you know if that was my problem hopefully it can help someone with a similar problem. Thanks.
If you plan on reusing the pressure plate, inspect it very carefully, for worn fingers, pivot pins, broken springs ect. I strongly suggest though, replacing them both. You can get the kit with throw out , and everything you need, cheaper than you can buy the individual components. Check the flywheel for cracks, and overheating, and have it resurfaced or replaced if necessary. Better to do it right the first time, than be crying in your beer while youre redoing it. Let us know
Later
Ed
PS: also check the slave cylinder while youre in there, any sign of a leak, replace it. with that many miles, might not be a bad idea anyway. Thats alot of work, to have to redo later if the slave goes out a month from now.............

sounds like syncro is bad. pull plug and look for shiny chunks

You will have to take her apart anyway but I would go for the slave failure. I have had the problem before in mine and I wish I would have done everything. It is worth it. I see though you are planning to sell or trade it. Good luck.

OK I got a clutch kit for it this past weekend and got everything pulled and then i realized the MFr at the parts store gave me a kit with the wrong thro bearing so.... I went ahead and just replaced the clutch and preasure plate. They both didnt look to bad to me but oh well. Finally got the tranny back in and thank god it works!!!!!!!!!!!! It still doesnt shift the way i like but it goes into gear great. I know i should have replaced everything when i had it done but didnt have time. Hope this helps someone else and thank yall for the help.

You didn't mention what type of Manual tranny you have. I don't know that much about newer models than my 88 4 speed. But, the time frame of about 4secs relates to (i believe) the type of flywheel you have- whether it is aluminum or iron/steel. It is the weight factor that causes the time difference. this is straight out of the haynes/chilton manuals. Other than that, good luck!

I realize that I'm a wee bit slow here, but...


You should always replace the throwout bearing when you replace the clutch. It can sometimes mean the difference between smooth shifts and gnashing gears, but rarely.

Also, when checking the fluid in the clutch, you want to make sure it is clean and relatively clear.

If that's ok, then try BLEEDING the clutch. Do this at both, the master and slave cylinders.

Hydraulic clutches work the same way as brakes. If there's even a tiny air bubble in the line or cylinder, then that air can compress and prevent the clutch from fully disengaging.

Yes, it CAN make a difference.

it kinda sounds like you have a worn out bearing, that is slowing stuff down to the point that when you try to put it in gear things dont line up. i dont know i am kinda new to manuals, but that is my 2 cents, i hope it helps.