ok the pistons i got are je 12.5-1 comp at standard bore, i heard because they are forged they wont go into the block without the block being bored. anyone know if this is fact or fiction

anyone???????????????

anyone???????????????

Well if they are standard-bore, they should fit with standard-bore rings... do they have deep fly-cuts?

yeah im looking at wall clearance not valve clearance, im on another forum and i found the info i need. if anyone needs or has more info ank or tell and i will try to help.............................i found i have to pull my block and have it ported even if the je pistons say they are stock bore because they expand when they get hot past normal operating tempetures because they are forged. i will be using nitrous so it will be beyond normal operating temps............................................. .................................................. .........................................i have the head already off is there much work to getting the block out now?

No. Unplug everything, unbolt your motor mounts and disconnect your tranny (or unclip your CV shafts and trans mounts and sensor clips and linkage and yank that too)... but anyway you can yank it right out of the top if need be...

How much is the bore recommendation? Do they do a flat-bore or recommend new steel sleeving? I would recommend a sleeve press-out and bore the block, and replace with a sleeve that is already bored over (due to your higher comp. ratio and nitrous) but that's just my preference.

they are saying the bore should be .0025" - .0035" over. they didnt say anything about sleeveing it.

yeah im looking at wall clearance not valve clearance

Well your valves still might not touch the pistons and vice-versa, but you are still bringing the piston closer to the valves by going to 12.5-1 compression pistons... that's why I asked about fly-cuts, because I didn't know the answer (yet). I am not very familiar with JE pistons in regards to putting them in a neon... something I haven't done or personally worked with (yet), I just know that depending on the application, they sometimes are a necessity in situations like this. I asked because the compression is higher because the wrist-pin and rod is farther away from the top of the piston (i.e., the piston and rod together are "taller." Stroke length remains the same, but the new pistons will travel approximately 0.0040" closer to your head and valves (about every 0.0015" decrease between the head and the piston will boost the compression about 1 full point).

As far as boring the block... 25-35 sounds ok but did they say what kind of rings they recommend? (I'm guessing that gapless would be out of the question). Of course even if it didn't didn't need a bore, a good honing and dip is always a good idea before throwing the new pistons and rings in there.

yes they have flycuts in them im going to try to get a picture of them on here. they are je pistons also they recomended je rings so i have je rings............................................. ........................im going to be decking the head .10 also so its going to be closer.

Forged pistons need more clearance on the bore because they flex more than cast pistons do under extreme useage.

yeah im getting it bored

got pics

http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/503/386981103_0138.JPG

12.5-1 je pistons with eagle rods

Good pics... but about the pistons and the deck...

Sounds like a nice setup. But between those two, you'll be looking at a final comp ratio of about 13.2:1... You could probably get away with this (with few or no other internal mods) by running 93-94 octane, which I assume you will anyway (unless you still plan on burning 87 and retarding timing like crazy, which would make you a retart yourself, which I gather you or not)... but anyway are you running the stock cam? Injectors? ECU, etc... just curious because the mods you are doing are really good mods and open the door for other mods that would benefit greatly from this. For example, a header, downpipe, and custom cam would add a tremendous breath to just the pistons and deck alone...

And for the record I am jealous... I would consider your mods for my car, but I gotta drive it every day to work and I don't have the funds to purchase a 3rd vehicle to account for that (wife drives car #2)... so I guess I can just smile and dream for now :-) Oh yeah and how does your block look... is it 100% smooth where the old ring travel was? If you can see where the travel was, I would recommend at least a slight surface honing to "blend" the consistancy of the walls together before you throw your new hardware into it. It will add a lot of life to your "new motor."

yeah this is a complete tear down and rebuild, i got about everything for this car. anyways it an 98RT dohc from bottom to top so far what i have is

new oilpump
udp
balanced crank (possible knife edge when i get the block out)
mopar main and rod bearings
eagle rods
je ceramic coated pistons
decked .10 head
pnp head
aem adjustable cam gears
crane #18'S
crane valve springs
5 angle valvejob
pnp intake mani with 90degree bend taken out
custom 3 inch intake W/ k&n filter
60mm throttle body w/ matched intake mani
tti longtube header
2.5in exhaust straight pipe
afx race computer to get rid of most sensors
full msd ignition
motormount inserts
bobble strut
100 shot
coilovers
the first gen acr koni adjustable struts
azienas(great stickyness for a month then no good)
not sure what tranny setup im goin with i have a modular setup now and im trying to deside if i should buy a upgraded modular system or put a non modular setup in it, also my fuel control is undesided if i should go safc2 and dis2 or megasquirt 2. im probly going with meagasquirt

anything else you would suggest

.....

Well you asked me to look so I did, and I must say that's definitely a respectable list... and as far as more suggestions, I'm drawing a blank except for two things:

Instead of the Crane #18 set, what about the #16's? The #18s would probably benefit greatly from your mods, but the #16s might actually do the same or better... I have seen a lot of people that have went with the agressive "match-up" cam to their motor, and their hp and torque curves were thrown way out of whack because their intake-to-compression profile was out of tune and they lost compression in the low and high ranges.

Crane will do ANY custom grind for you too and it's not that expensive... you could probably go off something like the 18's but with the proper setup, they can match specific specs to give you the hp you want and have a much broader hp and torque curve...

The other suggestion I had was to go with the modular trans... easier to swap in the long-run if you start destroying them, and easier to find higher-performance parts for custom fab work if you have to.

i already have the cams, so what do you recommend to correct the issues you brought up? also could you explain your above statement more simplified.

Okay well if you already have the cams then don't worry... and as far as the trans, I personally would go with modular because that seems to be what the serious guys go for (on average), due to their flexibility with parts support and tuning.

ok i think i will go with the modular and its a little cheaper as a whole instead of piece by piece. does the modular include the flywheel? and do you know any brands?

ok i think i will go with the modular and its a little cheaper as a whole instead of piece by piece. does the modular include the flywheel? and do you know any brands?

Well, from my knowledge, you have a 50/50 chance on a flywheel, depending on where you get the trans... if you buy one from a respected shop or dealer, they should be able to hook you up with one. If not, get the trans, and I would get a hold of a Centerforce setup. Centerforce makes excellent clutches and has machined hardened steel and aluminum flywheels they can pin on for you... I only ever bought a Centerforce clutch once, but that f****r always hooked and never faded, no problems (that was a 510 hp 302 NA hooked on a built T5...) and everyone I know that has dealt with them raved about them, same as me.

Mopar also has light mod trans equipment; good poly trans bushings and mounts, and other accessories. Other than that, check out late-model part slingers or shops for a decent mod trans that they're dying to offload from a totalled car or something... A good source that I found is 1/4-mile dragstrips. For instance, I live in SE Michigan, and Milan Dragway is only a few miles away and the only NHRA/IHRA certified drag in michigan now... anyway, they got a website where people sling parts pretty cheap. I am sure that you could find at least a decent shell to work off of from a local site in your area such as this.

yeah i got on here called tamparacing.com lots of parts on there but i dont trust them to much. centerforce i heard is good