Body Work

Hey all, I know I'm probably getting to be annoying with all my dumb questions and what not, but hey, it's all a part of learning.

I just picked up the Haynes manual for doing Body Repair and Painting Manual for dummies.

I was wondering if anyone else had any tips for a newbie like myself, as I need all the help I can get with these car's.

I've decided that I am going to work on them both and get them both running.

I am going to use one as a winter and one as a summer. Thinking about dropping a 13BT into the summer one, and a 13B into the winter one.

I've noticed these things are a bitch to get started when it is cold. I've also noticed this "Cold Start assist" fluid, 50/50 water and anti-freeze.

Can anyone tell me how that stuff works?

Thanks for putting up with my newbiness.

Moe

as far as the mechanics of the engine fixing...cant help ya much im still learning them muhself, i can tell ya exactly how the rotary engine works....but thats bout it for that subject. but i can help with the bodywork, im only 19 and happen to be better than some pros in the bodywork bussiness.... i picked it up a long time ago. when using fiberglass or bondo, knock it down with an air sander or such, then use like a sanding block to get it nice n smooth, u always wanna use sumthin flat, or like doin a hood scoop, get sumthin round to keep the eveness goin, keep the flow of the hood. use lighter grit to edge it, and when u get it nice n smooth, feather edge the spot, go in a circle, clockwise or counter clockwise, dont do both.,... got n e questions bout the bodywork juss post n ill reply, im sure i can help.

Well I was hopping to do all the body work with actual steel where I can, to get rid of the rust, as for doorjambs and Rocker Panles Theres an Anti Rust formula I was looking at for all the hard to reach places. Everyones told me it works wonders, so, I figure why not.

Also I found a Racing seat I like, and am buying, it's no Momo, or anything like that, it's an APC, and I like it, so I'm buying 2 next week.

What do you recomend for bondo/fiberglass if I do decide to go that route?

Would it be easier?

Doesn't Bondo Shrink over time, meaning I have to do it again in a few years?

<IMG SRC="http://www.automotiveinteriors.com/accessories/interior/racingseats/racingseat_blue.gif"; ALT="Seat">

Well I guess that didn't work.... Don't know what type of coding they use on this site.... :S stupid non-knowledgable self.

Anyways, they are APC Racing Seats, in Blue. As thats the colour I am going to do my care in I believe....

http://www.automotiveinteriors.com/accessories/interior/racingseats/racingseat_blue.gif

IMO I woudl not run these seats in your car. They dont have to pass any crash testing and are not DOT or SAE approved. I have heared stories of them folding in crashes and such. So be careful.

As far as the engine stuff goes i can help you. The body work not so much. I do do most of my own, but im slow and miticulas about it. So i dont think i could be much help there :P

Slow and miticulas is fine by me, that means you pay attention to detail.

Anyways, about the APC seats, I know they aren't the best, but they aren't the worst out there, and right now that's in my budget.

Just to let you know, since they are not SAE or DOT approved those seats alone can warrant your car being impounded.
So carful not to piss of your local poliece department.

I don't have to worry about cops much around here. It's kind of funny, it is like the police force in Red Deer is next to Nill, But I do understand what you mean, and I do realize that they are not Racing seats, but they are a race style.

dude, dont get those seats.

i dont think you know how good the stock FC seats are

STAY AWAY FROM BONDO. No offense to anyone, but that's a poor man's ghetto way of fixing dents and the such. Any high quality body shop won't even OWN bondo. Use metal glaze. It adheres to the steel and becomes a part of it. Will never flake, bubble or shrink like bondo eventually does. Stuff is horrible.

Metal Glaze? What is that?

ewwwyea ok 1st apc seats...not only is fdtt right, but thats just gay.

and bondo is hella ghetto. over tme it can just crack and mess up the paint, or just poof up and shit...ive worked in a shop, i still do work for one just not doing bodywork anymore, but on my own car if i had to, wherever possible i would just replace the whole panel. unless its very minor damage. or with steel, bang that shit out, use a torch, whatever u have to. u can fix dents, rust outs and large holes without using a drop of bodyfiller, so there is no excuse!

Question mark on that first part, and as for the second part.

If I can do most of it with little or no body filler of anykind I would be happy, as I am looking at putting a body kit on, if I take care of the rust in the areas that the body kit would cover I should beable to place Kit over it could I not? Without having to worry about bondo and what not? take the rust out, seal it. If I could find new panles for my car I would, but as the body shop quoted for some work I damn near fell over :S

you shoudl take the rust out irregardless

There is no way to "take care' of rust without totaly removing it from the car.

There is no way to "take care' of rust without totaly removing it from the car.

That's not true, as while I was working on a comercial fishing boat my skipper introduced me to a paint that turns Rust back into solid metal, along with a liquid that does the same thing. So there are ways around it, but, reguardless, I will more then likely grind it all out, and send it down to a body ship to have them weld in metal cut outs.

That's not true, as while I was working on a comercial fishing boat my skipper introduced me to a paint that turns Rust back into solid metal, along with a liquid that does the same thing. So there are ways around it, but, reguardless, I will more then likely grind it all out, and send it down to a body ship to have them weld in metal cut outs.


There is no possible way to reverse the chemical decompisition of metal that leads to rust. The stuff you are using only covers it. And it will come back. Guaranteed.

Rust can travel through the inside of the metal and pop up in other places.

There is no possible way to reverse the chemical decompisition of metal that leads to rust. The stuff you are using only covers it. And it will come back. Guaranteed.

Rust can travel through the inside of the metal and pop up in other places.

Sorry to have to disagree with you, but as I used to work on a boat I know how well this stuff works.

What causes rust FDTT?

The oxidization of metal right? So if you can reverse that process with a chemical it then kills the rust. Would it not?

If rust is garunteed to comeback then why would a boat that's 40yr's old be rust free with no rotting parts? :confused: