ABS removal on 94 2WD

A while ago I received some great info on removing the 4 wheel anti-lock brake unit in my 94 2wd S-10. My problem now is that as I am gathering the parts, I was told that I my need to install a differant master cylinder and proportioning valve (one from a vehical with non-antilock brakes). My truck is mainly for show and a few trips down the 1/4 mile and NOT driven daily. For this reason I am "cleaning up" under the hood (also moving battery to bed and replacing overfloe tank). The artical from SyTyArchives.com was very detailed and said nothing about replacing the master cylinder and proportioning valve so any info or website links anyone can provide on ABS removal will be of great use.

Thank You

Why would you want to remove ABS?

Why would you want to remove ABS?
Because I am tired of looking at the orange ABS light on my dash (for the last 2 years) reminding me that the system is not working anyway. In addition to that as I stated before, I am using my truck for show and I perfer a "clean look" under the hood.

I also have run the trouble codes for the ABS system and have come up with a total of 8. At first I repaired the system only to have more trouble. The system was a "good idea at the time" but like many "better ideas" after they age they tend to nickle and dime you to death! I'll take my chances with a standard braking system the way I was brought up. A lot of new cars now come with standard brakes with ABS as an option.

Thanks

Bill,
we meet again...
(this is the deer hunter, right?)
you do not need brake booster or master cylinder.
if you didn't want to "clean out" the engine bay, wouldn't even have to pull it all out and re-brake line it;
just open the dash, pull the little light, open glove box and pull fuses=
ABS gone.
conventional system will still work as traditional vehicles, you might have a 1/1,000th to 1/60th delay upon pedal mash (I don't think you'll notice).

and didn't get a hold of you throughout today; left message on your phone to call with a good time for your future modifications; call me tomorrow at work, or give me a good time to touch base in eves.

chris
nrt racing
713.933.5773

hey man did the exact same thing to mine 97 s-10 and hooked my lines back up to the master cylinder and just bleed the brakes worked fine for me. i DID NOT change master cylinders. the only way to get light off of the dash is to take the dash out and take the bulb out trust me i tried everything before taking the dash out. also where did you put your computer at mine is on the passanger side fender well. any other questions just ask will try to give all the help i can peace.

hey man did the exact same thing to mine 97 s-10 and hooked my lines back up to the master cylinder and just bleed the brakes worked fine for me. i DID NOT change master cylinders. the only way to get light off of the dash is to take the dash out and take the bulb out trust me i tried everything before taking the dash out. also where did you put your computer at mine is on the passanger side fender well. any other questions just ask will try to give all the help i can peace.
Thanks for the info. What size "T" fitting and brake line did you use? It looks like 3/16" for the front and 1/4" for the rear but the existing OEM stuff appears to be metric. I'm just trying to avoid extra trips to the parts store. I figured on reusing most of the existing fittings but I will need to know the size of the "T". As for my computer, it is located under the dash on the passanger side. Not so easy to get to but I think I perfer it there (out of site) as opposed to under the hood. Thanks again for your help.

Hey man i am not entirely sure but i think it was a 8 or 10mm. everything under the hood of my truck and the rest of the truck matter of fact is metric. Sorry can give more info but just not entirely sure on the size but like i said try a 8 or 10mm and by the way is your truck a 1st gen or a 2nd mine is a second so if yours is first it may be different.