97 Plymouth Breeze Problems


discoinferno65
10-04-2005, 04:43 PM
I have four questions about my 1997 plymouth breeze
1. My ebrake doesn't catch anymore, it still works but it doesn't stay in place when i pull it up meaning that even on big hills i have to keep the car in 1st gear, any recommendations?

2. My check engine light randomly comes on, the gas cap is tight but randomly it will pop on. I dont' think its a problem i was just wondering if anyone had any suggestions?

3. My tachometer randomly works which also turns off the digital mileage gauge from being on to off. I can drive with it off i would just rather have it on. I recently put premium in the car just because i had a 5 gallon gift certificate but it doesn't matter what kind i used. Putting premium in the car made the tachometer work more often but it still didn't work 100 percent of the time. Any suggestions?

4. When i turn on my car the exaust smokes heavily and even if the car is on for an hour it will still smoke when im in reverse or when im idleing, what could be wrong?

theFREAKnasty82
10-11-2005, 12:15 AM
I'll try to answer your questions one at a time:

1. Your e-brake not holding is the result of badly worn brake shoes. You need to get those things fixed soon, depending on what state you live, your car could fail inspection if that isn't fixed.

2. There are two ways to find out why your check engine light is on: a) turn your ignition key on/off 3xs ending in the "on" position. I believe your car will display a "P0301" or something like that on your odometer display, that or the check engine light will flash. b) Go to Advance Auto Parts or Autozone and have them hook up a code scanner to your car and have them access your codes.

3. If your tachometer is randomly working, could be a bad connection between your instrument cluster and body module. If you have the automatic transmission, it could go into "limp mode" where it won't shift out of second gear b/c the output speed sensor has failed, a common problem on all Chrysler front wheel drive transmissions.

4. what color is the smoke? If it's black, your car is running rich, meaning it's using too much fuel. If it's white, you have coolant getting inside of the cylinders which is likely caused by a blown head gasket. If it's blue, you have oil getting into the cylinder(s) caused by worn valve guide seals. If it's just a light puff, going away as you speed up the engine, it could be just mist or steam coming from the tailpipe which is normal.

discoinferno65
10-11-2005, 01:33 AM
1. The brake still works it just doesn't catch, is the answer still the same?

2. K

3. Yah i think im going to re-soder the cluster because i heard they are crap and need it

4. It is white but it only happens when im in reverse and iono why it would just be that way

theFREAKnasty82
10-12-2005, 03:31 PM
1. even if the brakes still catch, your back drums could be severly worn out. On most front wheel drive cars, the rear brakes are seldomly used. Most of the time, the front brakes do all the work. Only time the rears go to work is when you have a load in the back.

4. If the white smoke goes away after a while and you see that it's temperature related, I'd be willing to bet that it's just mist, no need to worry. If it was a constant white smoke that smelled sweet and was doing it all the time, that's when I would be worried.

legold1995
11-05-2005, 04:30 PM
I also had the same problem recently with the check engine light coming on. I took it to my mechanic and he told me that it had something to do with the gas vapors and emissions. Code 1494 when he diagnosed. He told me specifically that it is absolutely positively harmless to the car and the only place that can fix it is the Chrysler dealership. I completely trust this mechanic. He told me that it can happen after a long road trip which I had just taken. So, I trust that my mechanic knows what he is talking about.

Is there anyone else that has had the same problem but heard different from their mechanic?

I just purchased the car and I also hear that gurgling noise from undedr the hood after I stop and turn off the car. It sounds like the anti freeze. I had a freind tell me that it is usual with the Breeze. I've been driving for 20+ years and have never heard any type of noise like that. :screwy: Call me crazy but do cars gurgle like this?

PLease respond if you have any similar situations with your Breeze.

bkhump
12-01-2008, 03:56 PM
i too hear that god awful gurgling sound but ive never thought much of it. also, just recently my check engine light has come on. i restarted the car and the light flashed but no code came on the odometer. i havent taken any big trips lately. any help would be great!

dabreezaman72
12-16-2008, 06:41 AM
i have or my gf has a plymouth breeze too
its a 97
but we just put a brand new battery in it
and we had it jumped but when the gal took her cables off, the car died but we had lights.
we have talked to several people and said it could be the alternator. but then again it could be also the starter.
but i need some answers and advise for this.
i mean it died after the cables were taken off. so if any of you could help or give advise that be cool and really great too.

Morley
12-23-2008, 07:18 PM
I just purchased the car and I also hear that gurgling noise from undedr the hood after I stop and turn off the car. It sounds like the anti freeze. I had a freind tell me that it is usual with the Breeze. I've been driving for 20+ years and have never heard any type of noise like that. :screwy: Call me crazy but do cars gurgle like this?


That noise probably has to do with the way the upper radiator hose is routed, it has bends like a sink trap and can trap air causing the heated coolant to surge past the bends then into the over folw bottle.

Starflare5
09-30-2009, 09:05 PM
Hey there,

I have found some answers for you in the fact that I've experienced some of these issues myself.

As far as the parking brake latching, or, not latching as the case may be, take your Breeze to a Plymouth or Chrysler dealer in your area. This issue is actually part of a 2 part recall. One is the floor shifter not locking into park with the ignition off, and 2 of course, is the parking breake not latching properly. Both of these issues are actually due to a design flaw in the center console.

As far as the check engine light goes, check your oil. These vehicles were actually designed with a low oil warning other than the normal light on the dash. Whenever the oil is low, the check engine light may light up first as a warning before you're running on extremely low or no oil. Also, beadvised, as with all 4 cylinder engines, the 2.0 will burn through alot of oil when driving through hills. If you live in a hilly area, it is recommended that you use 10W 40 motor oil instead of 5W 30. It may not be as "energy efficient," but, it'll save your car's engine.

As far as the dash goes, and as far as most digital dashes of the late 80's and early 90's, or, at least, their digital parts, these dashes were no different in the solder joint failure area. This actually should have been a recall considering the number of vehicles it affects including the Plymouth Breeze, Dodge Stratus, Chrysler Cirrus and Siebring, but, unfortunately was not for a couple of reasons:

First of all, most vehicle BCMs were designed by this time to store the vehicle's milage instead of the dash cluster storing it. GM even took this one step further by making the cluster error out if it appeared that the milage was in an attempt to be tampered with. Moving on... If you notice, everytime your cluster comes back on from going out, the milage has changed, so Chrysler saw this as a "no harm, no foul" type of situation.

Secondly, Chrysler did not make a recall on this because no one was ever killed in a vehicle due to the odometer and/or tachometer not working. It was considered just an annoyance, and not a safety concern unlike the parking brake and floor shifter.

With that said, if you take the dash to a Chrysler, they will charge you for a whole new cluster, or at least the repair.

Best advice for this is to do 1 of 2 things: 1: If you have about 2 hours of free time, go to your local Radio Shack and pick up a pen soldering iron meant for electronics and a tube of the thin electrotek rosin core solder. Also, if you don't have it, get a multi head torque screw driver, you're going to need it and follow these instructions.

DO NOT get or use a high powered soldering iron for this can damage the board and/or components.

Remove the dash top and remove the cluster using a simple phillips head screw driver, and take the cluster apart using the torque driver.

Remove the backboard, and the front plastic window and cowl, and unscrew and remove the just the speedometer, tachometer, and odometer combo panel.

On the backboard, go ahead and first re-solder every place where it looks to have a component making contact with the board via the solder. most of this will be done on the bulb side up side of the board, but, if you wish, you may also re-solder the loop-connections on the other side of the board as well. This is a very simple, but tedious task and can take an hour.

On the back of the combo panel, re-solder every contact point or solder joint behind the florescent display as well.

Then, simply re-assemble your panel and voila. Your instrument cluster is working once again as if it was brand new or better. This also gives you a chance to clean the cluster inside and out if it has become dirty.


This method will cost around $10.00 or less to do.

2: You can take the cluster to an electronics repair shop which may cost you up to $100 at least.

DO NOT replace the cluster with one from a junk yard or ebay for you may be right back in the same situation. This way, you know it's fixed atleast.

In the 2.0 engine, carbon build up is extremely common and can cause the vehicle to smoke and even fail an emissions test. Best way to repair, put either some all system cleaner or injector cleaner in the fuel tank every time you do a tune-up and the smoke problem will no longer exist.

It is very important to do this because, eventually, it may clog the catyllitic converter.

Well, I hope this advice helps you all out.

Thank you,
Starflare5.

Starflare5
09-30-2009, 09:17 PM
i have or my gf has a plymouth breeze too
its a 97
but we just put a brand new battery in it
and we had it jumped but when the gal took her cables off, the car died but we had lights.
we have talked to several people and said it could be the alternator. but then again it could be also the starter.
but i need some answers and advise for this.
i mean it died after the cables were taken off. so if any of you could help or give advise that be cool and really great too.

Dude,

If you were able to start the car, it's not the starter. Usually in every case like this, it's the alternator, especially since most cars use a direct ignition system and not a distributor. Take the alternator to an Autozone and have them test it for free, however, I don't recommend a Duralast as a replacement. If you can, try and see if you can find a cheap Mopar or even Delco one made for your vehicle. Just get any brand but Duralast.

Starflare5
09-30-2009, 09:20 PM
i too hear that god awful gurgling sound but ive never thought much of it. also, just recently my check engine light has come on. i restarted the car and the light flashed but no code came on the odometer. i havent taken any big trips lately. any help would be great!

Check 2 places. Your oil and your coolant. The check engine light might be a pre-warning.

Thaib
11-12-2009, 09:12 AM
I have a 97 breeze that has all the same issues. My check engine light had come on about a week ago and the the car died on the highway yesterday. I think it might have burned up all the oil but the engine didn't seize. Any suggestions? Think I can get her running again? Thanks

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