shifting

Im just learning to drive a stik and while I'm learning I just have a few questions so I'll learn it all at once the right way. I'm wondering what is the optimum shift point for best fuel economy on a 97 2.2vtec, and still staying with the traffic. (heard some ridiculous stuff like shifting at 2k,... maybe in residential areas, but w/e). Also, how do you guys enter a turn? ...when (before entering? or after) and how do you downshift? Does double clutching on upshifting makes sense? No this isn't from the F&F, just someone said something to the effect that will be easier on the synchros and make them last longer...? I know these are basics for most of you, but I'm learning and will appreciate feedback! Hope you're all having a great day!!

normal driving it's best to shift under 4,000rpm.

downshift before the turn usually but it all depends, for normal driving it doesn't really matter. when down shifting make sure to raise the enigne rpm's(rev match) with the gas pedal don't let the clutch out in a lower gear and have that raise the rpm's.

double clutching on upshifts is a waste of effort. the only time it's worth while is if your in an endurance race only on downshifts. with a synchronized manual transmission you don't even need to use the clutch if you can shift right, but i wouldn't recommend it if you just learning. practice that in some one elses car.

during normal driving, where should I aim to keep my rpms at? (how low?)

A good shift point is between 2500 and 3000 rpm's. When you're just cruising at one speed, keep it around 1500 to 2000. Remember that when shifting while going uphill, you need to shift at a higher rpm than on flat ground, and going downhill you can get away with a lot lower rpm without bogging down your engine.

Accelerating slightly about 2/3 of the way through a curve will enhance your traction. A downshift before the turn causes the car's weight to shift toward the front and helps "plant" the steering tires to hold the turn better. I like to give the steering a small sharp twitch in the direction of the curve just before entering a hard curve, with street cars and their relatively mushy suspension, this causes the car's body to "roll" as if you were actually going to hook the turn much sharper than it is, then rebound back in the opposite direction just as you actually enter the curve. In effect you are "cheating" the curve, giving the chassis a little unnatural momentum toward the INSIDE of the curve that it wouldn't have otherwise. Then you follow this momentum in as straight a line through the apex as possible, ending with the above mentioned light acceleration as you exit.

As said above, bringing the engine RPMs up to match the gear you are downshifting to makes for a much smoother shift, less wear on driveline and more control if shifting through a turn, but it takes a lot of time and practice to master.

Once you get the feel of what your engine sounds like at the points where you shift in different situations, you can actually float the gear changes without the clutch. Upshifts are easier than downshifts to float. On an upshift you just let off the gas slightly while lightly pushing the shifter out of the gear you are in. This breaks the torque on the gears and allows them to disengage without contact. Then when the motor winds down to the point where it sounds like the right RPM for the next gear, you lightly shove the shifter into that gear, and it will drop in without grinding. With practice, you can do it all in one smooth sequence, and go directly out of one gear and into the next without any hesitation.

Downshift float is a litlle trickier, assuming you are decellerating, you have to give it a little gas to break gear torque, opposite of upshifting, and then move the shifter out of gear. Then the RPMs must be brought UP to the correct speed for the lower gear. This can be a real trick, especially on real quick revving motors like Hondas. Most times I overshoot that RPM faster than I move the shifter.

Applying a very light pressure to the stick towards the intended gear can help, you can actually feel the gear drag decreasing until it meshes with the input gear, at which point it will drop in easily.

You feel the change in resistance just as the two synch up, then you stab it. This wears parts a little though, and should only be done until you get a feel for the right point to engage. Like he said, borrow someone else's car and practice :)