95 ford taurus start problem


khurdp
08-29-2005, 06:24 PM
Hello guys,
First day i had the problem, it took me nearly 10-15 tries to start the car. The key would turn as if I were turning it in a lock. No sound nothing. The car then started correctly that day evening at work. Next day morning, no problem starting but that day evening, it didn't start so i got a ride from a co-worker home leaving the car at work. Next day(saturday), the car again started on the 3rd attempt. On monday, when my wife took the car to Goodyear service for checkup, it started on the first attempt. After spending $27 at Goodyear for checkup, they say there is nothing wrong with the car. They are going to try to see if it doesn't start tomorrow morning too. They said the starter, alternator, battery are all fine and in good condition. Please advice.

Thank you,
regards,
Prasad

shorod
08-29-2005, 09:29 PM
When the engine doesn't start/crank, do the interior features (radio, etc.) work as expected, just the engine doesn't turn over, or does the car act as if turning the key does nothing?

-Rod

khurdp
08-30-2005, 09:14 AM
Thanks Rod.

The radio, power windows work fine, internal lights, the door open warning sound/alarm works fine, didn't check other things. Basically, other than the car starting everything else worked just like it normally would.

shorod
08-31-2005, 12:45 AM
Thanks Rod.

The radio, power windows work fine, internal lights, the door open warning sound/alarm works fine, didn't check other things. Basically, other than the car starting everything else worked just like it normally would.

Sounds like possibly a bad ignition switch. Not the key cylinder switch, but the ignition switch module. Ford had problems with their ignition switches melting and in some cases, catching on fire. I don't recall what all years were effected.

I don't think they used the PATS system in 1995, but if so that could be part of your problem too. A key that is not programmed to PATS would cause problems strikingly similar to what you are experiencing, but I think PATS was incorporated in 1996. A car with PATS will have a transponder key with a small RF chip in the key.

-Rod

khurdp
08-31-2005, 09:10 PM
Thanks Rod.

It isn't a RF chip key so i guess that rules out PATS. I hope the guy at Goodyear checked out the ignition switch module but if it happens again I will ask him to check it. It has happened a total of 3 times now. Since it didn't start the last time, the car has been started at least 7 times by us and numerous times by Goodyear guys so... hopefully it was just something that won't happen again.

regards,
Prasad

nemo566
08-31-2005, 10:42 PM
I Could Be The Starter Solenoid Which Is On
The Starter. Some Times The Stick Next Time It Won't Start Have Some One Hold The Key In The Start Position And Hit (tap On) The Starter And See If It Starts Get A Starter.

shorod
09-01-2005, 02:31 AM
I Could Be The Starter Solenoid Which Is On
The Starter. Some Times The Stick Next Time It Won't Start Have Some One Hold The Key In The Start Position And Hit (tap On) The Starter And See If It Starts Get A Starter.

Very true. I'm so used to problems listed on this forum being odd problems, I sometimes forget the common, "easy" fixes.

If it does turn out to be a bad starter solenoid and you get a replacement from the chain autoparts stores, be sure to count the number of teeth on the replacement starter gear to be sure it matches what you take off. I picked up one from a chain parts store and the number of teeth was wrong. It was for my '93 Taurus SHO and they had to order it. Because they ordered it, I opted to just swap out the drive mechanism rather than wait another couple days for a replacement that would likely be wrong too. I guess it would be worth the short amount of time to check the gear even if you get it from a professional supplier.

-Rod


-Rod

snige54
09-13-2005, 02:09 PM
Hey, Just had the exact same thing happen on my 94 taurus SHO the other day, i could get all interior items to work, (stereo,clock etc) but there wasnt enough juice in the battery. When i hooked up to a set of jumper cables it still failed to start, just clicked. I was confused so i called my dad he insisted on the battery being the problem. We simply undid the post hook up and sure enough the cables were corroded badly down down where you couldnt see until unscrewed. There was a plate that was screwed down on top fo the wires to hold it down. From there we just used a wire brush to clean out the wire and havent had a problem since.

khurdp
10-25-2005, 02:09 PM
Hello Guys,
my taurus keeps doing this all the time. If it starts ok in the morning, it won't the same evening. It didn't start last evening. It didn't start at two attempts an hour apart yesterday evening but it start the very first attempt today afternoon.

I called up an autoshop. The guy said he thinks its most likely the starter and that it would cost me $200 parts & labour. I don't mind spending the money provided there was some assurance that the starter indeed is a problem. Can somebody please advice me; I am my wits end with this problem. I am really worried, should I get the starter replaced? PLEASE HELP.

thank you,
Prasad

shorod
10-25-2005, 07:07 PM
Hello Guys,
my taurus keeps doing this all the time. If it starts ok in the morning, it won't the same evening. It didn't start last evening. It didn't start at two attempts an hour apart yesterday evening but it start the very first attempt today afternoon.

I called up an autoshop. The guy said he thinks its most likely the starter and that it would cost me $200 parts & labour. I don't mind spending the money provided there was some assurance that the starter indeed is a problem. Can somebody please advice me; I am my wits end with this problem. I am really worried, should I get the starter replaced? PLEASE HELP.

thank you,
Prasad

What doesn't the car do when it won't start?

Does the engine crank, but it never starts? If so, do you just hear a click or a series of clicks when you turn the key to the "Start" position?

Do you hear nothing when you turn the key to "Start?" Do the lights on the dash come on but no other noise? How about trying to start the car with the headlights on? Do they get very dim when trying to start?

If the car does not crank, check the battery cables first. Remove both cables from the battery and clean them. When reattaching, make sure they are tight and cannot rotate on the battery. Does this have any effect?

If the car does crank but will not start, you will need to verify that you have proper fuel pressure, good spark, and the engine can get air. When's the last time you changed the fuel filter and checked the air filter?

-Rod

minimonster17
10-25-2005, 08:14 PM
:frown: I am having problems starting my Taurus as well. It's a 96 w/ a 97 engine in it and it stalls out three or four times before it finally ignites properly. I'm figuring the problem is the starter, and am willing to replace it, provided I am right. Can somebody verify this? :frown:

shorod
10-26-2005, 02:08 PM
Depending on what you mean by "stalls out three of four times," I doubt it's the starter. The starter should not cause the engine to die, unless the bendix is staying engaged and loading the engine enough to kill it. Can't say I've ever heard of that being the problem.

I'd suspect something more along the lines of bad spark plugs, carboned up throttle body, problem in the idle air control passage, faulty Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor (if equipped with MAF), insufficient fuel pressure, or dirty air filter.

-Rod

Thomishere
11-02-2005, 08:56 AM
Depending on what you mean by "stalls out three of four times," I doubt it's the starter. The starter should not cause the engine to die, unless the bendix is staying engaged and loading the engine enough to kill it. Can't say I've ever heard of that being the problem.

I'd suspect something more along the lines of bad spark plugs, carboned up throttle body, problem in the idle air control passage, faulty Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor (if equipped with MAF), insufficient fuel pressure, or dirty air filter.

-Rod
I have similar problems with a 1999 Ford Taurus. The symptoms are the car will turn over for weeks and even months. Then I'll park for about 1/2 hour to 1 hour the engine will start to turnover and then stop. I wait about 1/2 hour to an hour then it starts up. I've had the battery and electrical system checked and replaced. I regularly put fuel cleaner in with a full tank and regularly change my filters. I've had the dealer check the diagnositic codes and an independent car repair place hold my car for a week in all weather conditions and no one can find out what's wrong. I also requested a fuel pump test which went ok and the car will then run fine and for no reason not turn over. Could this be the EGR valve, fuel pump relay or some sensor that needs to be replaced. signed stranded Tom

shorod
11-02-2005, 01:37 PM
If the engine just stops cranking, the problem should not be related to anything like the EGR or fuel system. Unless the fuel system is dumping just a ton of fuel into the cylinders and hydro-locking. To check for that, if you get it to act up, you could remove the spark plugs and then crank the engine, If you get a bunch of moisture pumping out of the spark plug holes, you have a lot of liquid in the cylinders. This could also be a VERY bad head gasket, but I would expect you to have other symptoms as well when the engine is running, like sweet smelling, very white exhaust.

Sounds like you have something with your starter motor that is opening up when it gets hot, maybe worn brushes or an open in the windings.

Did the independent shop drive the car and get the engine up to normal operating temps in that week, or just have it parked outside and they tried to start it randomly? If the latter, the heat theory and starter would make more sense, they never got the starter hot enough.

Next time this happens, turn the headlights on and try to crank the engine. If the headlights dim when it won't start, you have something loading the electrical system which could be a hydro-locked engine or short in the starter. If the lights seem full brightness, then you probably have an open in the starter.

You could also try tapping aggresively on the starter motor when it won't start and see if it will start after a few taps. If so, replace the starter motor.

Also, I would expect that this has already been done, but make sure the battery cables and connections are clean. Don't just look at them, but remove them from the battery and clean all mating surfaces.

-Rod

Thomishere
11-02-2005, 04:49 PM
If the engine just stops cranking, the problem should not be related to anything like the EGR or fuel system. Unless the fuel system is dumping just a ton of fuel into the cylinders and hydro-locking. To check for that, if you get it to act up, you could remove the spark plugs and then crank the engine, If you get a bunch of moisture pumping out of the spark plug holes, you have a lot of liquid in the cylinders. This could also be a VERY bad head gasket, but I would expect you to have other symptoms as well when the engine is running, like sweet smelling, very white exhaust.

Sounds like you have something with your starter motor that is opening up when it gets hot, maybe worn brushes or an open in the windings.

Did the independent shop drive the car and get the engine up to normal operating temps in that week, or just have it parked outside and they tried to start it randomly? If the latter, the heat theory and starter would make more sense, they never got the starter hot enough.

Next time this happens, turn the headlights on and try to crank the engine. If the headlights dim when it won't start, you have something loading the electrical system which could be a hydro-locked engine or short in the starter. If the lights seem full brightness, then you probably have an open in the starter.

You could also try tapping aggresively on the starter motor when it won't start and see if it will start after a few taps. If so, replace the starter motor.

Also, I would expect that this has already been done, but make sure the battery cables and connections are clean. Don't just look at them, but remove them from the battery and clean all mating surfaces.

-Rod
Thanks for the tips Rod. The independant service station were ASE certified and they had the car for a week and drove it in rain, snow, and damp conditions. To rule out the head gasket they sprayed a paint to uncover any potential leaks. They also did a fuel pump test.

I turn the key, the engine cranks and it won't start. Then for several months or lately the last couple of weeks it will be ok. I think because it is so intermittent it could be a lot of things. I'll try turning the lights on next time when this problem re occurs. I hesitated to do that before because I thought it might drain the battery. I also had a check engine light that I took into get the diagnostic code read at an Auto Zone but it went out about 1/2 way to the store.

Do you know if the codes can be read without the check engine light is on? Perhaps a history provided the battery is not disconnected. Sorry for the 101 questions this is a real mystery.

anita222
01-27-2009, 10:38 PM
I have a 95 ford taurus 3.0 engine cranks but will not start replace fuel pump because was not getting enough psi know I get 39 to 40 psi with still no start..replace spark plugs distibutor cap and coil getting a spark from plugs but do not start check ignition module at auto store its fine ....... compression tested getting 120 to 130 psi which is good .....help

shorod
01-28-2009, 07:51 AM
Welcome to the forum!

That's quite difficult to read without punctuation, but since you actually searched the forum, I'll let it slide this time.

It sounds like you are getting fuel to the fuel rail, but do you have any indication that the fuel is making it to the cylinders? Maybe the fuel injectors are not operating. Which 3.0L do you have, the 12V or the 24V?

After a couple seconds of cranking, pull a plug or two and see if they are wet with fuel. If not, you could try spraying some throttle body cleaner into the intake air path while someone cranks the engine over. If the car sputters like it wants to start, or does start and run as long as the cleaner is being modulated into the air stream, I'd suspect your injectors are not operating.

You'll also want to check for vacuum leaks to make sure you don't just have such a large leak that the air/fuel ratio is waaaay too lean.

-Rod

anita222
01-28-2009, 10:44 AM
Thank you, The spark plugs are not wet when removed after cranking. I will check for leaks and reply back to you.

shorod
01-28-2009, 01:02 PM
It would be pretty quick and informative to try spraying the throttle body cleaner into the throttle body while cranking the engine to see what effect that has.

-Rod

anita222
01-29-2009, 08:16 PM
It would be pretty quick and informative to try spraying the throttle body cleaner into the throttle body while cranking the engine to see what effect that has.

-RodHi Rod I sprayed the throttle body cleaner into the throttle body while cranking the engine and still the same problem no start. Some one told me to check the intake air control what do you think about that. If the distributor cap is not set correctly once replace will this have any effect on the engine not starting. Oh the DTC is code 111 that states system pass....

anita222
01-29-2009, 08:19 PM
Hi Rod I sprayed the throttle body cleaner into the throttle body while cranking the engine and still the same problem no start. Some one told me to check the intake air control what do you think about that. If the distributor cap is not set correctly once replace will this have any effect on the engine not starting. Oh the DTC is code 111 that states system pass.... Thank you in advance

shorod
01-29-2009, 09:48 PM
When spraying the cleaner, did you open the throttle to let the cleaner into the throttle body?

-Rod

Fordhcw
02-07-2009, 10:10 PM
Sometimes it is difficult to isolate why a car will intermitently not start. My 1998 Taurus with 3L OHV engine would intermitently not start, but would usually start about one half hour latter. The period between the starter failures was unpredictable. It could be days, weeks or months.
I connected a wire to the starter solenoid and ran it up to where it could be used to temporarily jump to the positive battery terminal the next time the starter failed. The next time the starter failed, it would not turn over when the solenoid was temporarily connected to the battery. I replaced the defective starter and the problem went away.

shorod
02-08-2009, 10:21 AM
In this case the starter works (see post #14).

-Rod

AJwil
05-04-2009, 03:48 PM
I seem to be having a similar problem on my 95 Taurus. The battery keeps draining for no reason, whatsoever.

It seems to be a recent problem, too.

What would happen, is that overnight my battery would drain and die, as if I had left something on, but I never do.

Last night, after jumping my car, I drove over 3 hours with nothing on to make sure my battery got a good charge, and it seemingly did, seeing as everything ran at full power.

I tried to start the bloody thing up this morning, and it wouldn't start, but everything runs, like my radio, lights, and air.

So, what I'm saying is, the car will start when jumped, yet it seems like the battery has enough charge to keep other things going. Which I find confusing.

Thank you kindly if you have some sort of answer.

shorod
05-04-2009, 10:53 PM
Welcome to the forum, and thank you for using the Search feature!!!

When the car won't start after sitting, do you get a click, a series of clicks, or nothing? If you leave a door open so the interior lights are on, then try to start it, does the interior light completely dim or blink? Have you checked your battery cables to make sure they are clean and tight? Have you checked for a drain by pulling one fuse at a time and seeing if the issue goes away or, ideally, by installing a current meter in series with the battery to see what the standby current draw is?

You might have a trunk light or glove box light that is never turning off. Or, you might have a loose battery cable that cannot support the draw from the starter. When you install jumper cables, the current draw is via the cables rather than the dirty/loose battery cables. Also, it's not unheard of for there to be a cracked post inside the battery which would give similar indications as a loose battery cable.

-Rod

DonWontheLibra
05-04-2009, 11:25 PM
Had this problem with mine. Turns out it was a bad connection at the battery post. I put some sand paper to them brought new power wires and no more problems.:smokin:

scoooter
02-27-2012, 11:50 AM
Hello. I bought a 95 sho that I had to finish putting the engine together. The car won't start with the key. I can pull start the car and it will run. That is up until I touch the gas, then it quits, but will start right back up while getting pulled. I have changed the crank and cam sensors, and the DIS on the end of the crossover tube. When I first turn the key on the tach jumps slightly but goes completely dead while cranking until I let off the key then it jumps again. For some reason it loses power while cranking just as the radio and everything else usually does. There doesn't seem to be any add-on security besides the stock keyless entry. Any suggestions would be appreciated since I am at my wits end for something that I am sure is electrical and most likely stupidly simple. Thank you.

shorod
02-27-2012, 06:27 PM
Have you checked for diagnostic codes? Have you checked all the fuses? Do you know you're getting power to the ignition module and PCM?

-Rod

mechhound
02-28-2012, 01:38 AM
Hello. For some reason it loses power while cranking just as the radio and everything else usually does.

That sounds like dirty connections at some battery cables. Could be at the battery posts or the other end of the cables, or the ground connections. Could also be a bad battery cable shorting out internally.

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