Acids - Bases.
92rs25th
08-25-2005, 03:05 AM
Alright , I know this doesn't exactly go here but I figured it would get the most hits here so heres the question.
How would one obtain or go about making a metal eating corrossive that could eat through about an inch of metal within 2 hours ?
Wether it be an Acid or a Base , If anyone knows , I'd appreciate the help / Info.
I need it because I forgot the combo to my safe O.o and it has no external entry points without knowing the combo. It was only 150 bucks but it's uncrackable apparently so I was told by a lock smith. He said to go with a corrossive and left O.o.
How would one obtain or go about making a metal eating corrossive that could eat through about an inch of metal within 2 hours ?
Wether it be an Acid or a Base , If anyone knows , I'd appreciate the help / Info.
I need it because I forgot the combo to my safe O.o and it has no external entry points without knowing the combo. It was only 150 bucks but it's uncrackable apparently so I was told by a lock smith. He said to go with a corrossive and left O.o.
freakonaleash1187
08-25-2005, 07:26 AM
or you can shoot it.
k3smostwanted
08-25-2005, 08:06 AM
a stick of dynamite should do the trick but then it could possibly destroy whatever you need inside.
you need to do this with house hold chemicals???
I am sure i could mix up something at work but i cant think of any house hold chemicals that you could mix together to eat metal. Probably the strongest thing in your house is ammonia or drain cleaner.
you need to do this with house hold chemicals???
I am sure i could mix up something at work but i cant think of any house hold chemicals that you could mix together to eat metal. Probably the strongest thing in your house is ammonia or drain cleaner.
92rs25th
08-25-2005, 01:52 PM
If you can make something that I can buy it at home depot that will corrode the metal that would work too or ACE / Eagle / Lowes whichever. Very precious belongings inside or I would hammer drill it with some carbide bits.
freakonaleash1187
08-25-2005, 01:53 PM
i think it would just be easier to beat at it until you could get it open. or maybe you could take a torch to it.
92rs25th
08-25-2005, 02:17 PM
Not that kind of safe though , It's fully sealed with a twin bolt door and 1" thick surrounding of steel.
1viadrft
08-25-2005, 02:22 PM
DeleriousZ
08-25-2005, 07:15 PM
WHAT THE FUCK GEORGE
seriously man that's not fucking cool...
seriously man that's not fucking cool...
k3smostwanted
08-25-2005, 07:18 PM
George, are you trying to tell him to scare that safe open?
anyways, try taking some dry-ice or nitrogen and freezing the living hell out of the lock and then hit it with a hammer. at extreme temperatures metal sometimes metal can crack.
anyways, try taking some dry-ice or nitrogen and freezing the living hell out of the lock and then hit it with a hammer. at extreme temperatures metal sometimes metal can crack.
1viadrft
08-26-2005, 10:56 AM
What I'm wodering.... what does this have to do with Z's???
freakonaleash1187
08-26-2005, 02:34 PM
Alright , I know this doesn't exactly go here but I figured it would get the most hits here so heres the question.
What I'm wodering.... what does this have to do with Z's???
there you go.
What I'm wodering.... what does this have to do with Z's???
there you go.
1viadrft
08-26-2005, 05:19 PM
?????????????
Why not post in the OFF-TOPIC thread then?
Why not post in the OFF-TOPIC thread then?
freakonaleash1187
08-26-2005, 05:45 PM
like he said, it will get more hits here, not everybody goes to the off-topic thread. but i agree, he should of put it in the off-topic thread even if not as many people would of seen it.
k3smostwanted
08-26-2005, 08:56 PM
the way i see it...does it really matter?
if you dont like it here...dont click on it. it will die soon enough.
if you dont like it here...dont click on it. it will die soon enough.
1viadrft
08-27-2005, 11:18 PM
Sigh... w/e....
k3smostwanted
08-27-2005, 11:57 PM
Sigh... w/e....
:lol: don't get mad georgy...it was dead until you brought it back up, see!!! :D
:lol: don't get mad georgy...it was dead until you brought it back up, see!!! :D
longlivetheZ
08-28-2005, 10:40 AM
If I ever see that picture again, I'm going to go grab my .380 and hunt down who ever posted it...my girlfriend thought it'd be amusing to send me a pic of that same fucking nasty ass "dog" (or whatever the hell it is) and I NEVER wanted to see it again...so much for that...
MikeMan
08-29-2005, 06:44 AM
Hey, thought I'd just throw in my two cents about the chemistry question. Sorry for perpetuating an offtopic thread but hopefully i can help enough to close it.
Forget the bases, they aren't going to do you any good (Ammonia and drain cleaner). The best the base will do is produce a metal alkali complex which isn't going to help you much.
As for the acid, you can grab some muriatic acid (hydrochloric) from the hardware store thats a rather good molarity. The stuff around here is close to 8M if i calculated correctly, which is slightly fuming (so don't breathe it in if you value your nasal passages)
Now I'm not quite sure what metal most safes would be made from, but I would assume some form of either cast iron or stainless steel. If it's cast iron, you're laughing. If its stainless steel, its going to take a while.
The reaction is as follows:
Acid + Metal --> Salt + Water + Hydrogen + heat
Firstly, you'll need to sand down the safe where you're going to be putting the acid. We need a shiny metal surface so the acid doesn't have to waste any time trying to eat through paint or anything.
Then, you'll need to grab some kind of inert pipe (maybe plastic, glass would be ideal though) and put it straight onto the sanded metal, sticking upright. then use an oily putty to seal the contact point.
Once you've done this, just fill the pipe up with hydrochloric acid and stir it every now and then to mix it up. Ideally, what you want is for the metal to start fizzing straight away, but depending on the metal and the molarity of hydrochloric acid you're using, it probably isn't going to happen. You will need to change the acid in the pipe every few days because its pH is going to rise and get closer to neutral the more the reaction progresses, limiting its speed and effect.
If you really wanted to speed things up, we could try and make a redox cell out of the whole thing. IIRC you'll need to make the safe electropositive (to attract the negative chloride ions) and then put an inert electrode into the top of the pipe thats negative (such as the graphite in a pencil). The half cell voltages aren't very high (0.41V to be exact, if i've calculated correctly) and ~12V (such as from your trusty Z) would be more than enough. With that kind of voltage, expect to see some other interesting reactions go on. That being said, unless you've got some kind of heavy duty resistor or something, you probably don't want to short out your battery/alternator so I'd personally stick away from the assisted corrosion!
If all else fails, I hear Al + FeO3 works a treat with a burning strip of magnesium. :D
-Mike
Forget the bases, they aren't going to do you any good (Ammonia and drain cleaner). The best the base will do is produce a metal alkali complex which isn't going to help you much.
As for the acid, you can grab some muriatic acid (hydrochloric) from the hardware store thats a rather good molarity. The stuff around here is close to 8M if i calculated correctly, which is slightly fuming (so don't breathe it in if you value your nasal passages)
Now I'm not quite sure what metal most safes would be made from, but I would assume some form of either cast iron or stainless steel. If it's cast iron, you're laughing. If its stainless steel, its going to take a while.
The reaction is as follows:
Acid + Metal --> Salt + Water + Hydrogen + heat
Firstly, you'll need to sand down the safe where you're going to be putting the acid. We need a shiny metal surface so the acid doesn't have to waste any time trying to eat through paint or anything.
Then, you'll need to grab some kind of inert pipe (maybe plastic, glass would be ideal though) and put it straight onto the sanded metal, sticking upright. then use an oily putty to seal the contact point.
Once you've done this, just fill the pipe up with hydrochloric acid and stir it every now and then to mix it up. Ideally, what you want is for the metal to start fizzing straight away, but depending on the metal and the molarity of hydrochloric acid you're using, it probably isn't going to happen. You will need to change the acid in the pipe every few days because its pH is going to rise and get closer to neutral the more the reaction progresses, limiting its speed and effect.
If you really wanted to speed things up, we could try and make a redox cell out of the whole thing. IIRC you'll need to make the safe electropositive (to attract the negative chloride ions) and then put an inert electrode into the top of the pipe thats negative (such as the graphite in a pencil). The half cell voltages aren't very high (0.41V to be exact, if i've calculated correctly) and ~12V (such as from your trusty Z) would be more than enough. With that kind of voltage, expect to see some other interesting reactions go on. That being said, unless you've got some kind of heavy duty resistor or something, you probably don't want to short out your battery/alternator so I'd personally stick away from the assisted corrosion!
If all else fails, I hear Al + FeO3 works a treat with a burning strip of magnesium. :D
-Mike
k3smostwanted
08-29-2005, 06:51 AM
Hey, thought I'd just throw in my two cents about the chemistry question. Sorry for perpetuating an offtopic thread but hopefully i can help enough to close it.
Forget the bases, they aren't going to do you any good (Ammonia and drain cleaner). The best the base will do is produce a metal alkali complex which isn't going to help you much.
As for the acid, you can grab some muriatic acid (hydrochloric) from the hardware store thats a rather good molarity. The stuff around here is close to 8M if i calculated correctly, which is slightly fuming (so don't breathe it in if you value your nasal passages)
Now I'm not quite sure what metal most safes would be made from, but I would assume some form of either cast iron or stainless steel. If it's cast iron, you're laughing. If its stainless steel, its going to take a while.
The reaction is as follows:
Acid + Metal --> Salt + Water + Hydrogen + heat
Firstly, you'll need to sand down the safe where you're going to be putting the acid. We need a shiny metal surface so the acid doesn't have to waste any time trying to eat through paint or anything.
Then, you'll need to grab some kind of inert pipe (maybe plastic, glass would be ideal though) and put it straight onto the sanded metal, sticking upright. then use an oily putty to seal the contact point.
Once you've done this, just fill the pipe up with hydrochloric acid and stir it every now and then to mix it up. Ideally, what you want is for the metal to start fizzing straight away, but depending on the metal and the molarity of hydrochloric acid you're using, it probably isn't going to happen. You will need to change the acid in the pipe every few days because its pH is going to rise and get closer to neutral the more the reaction progresses, limiting its speed and effect.
If you really wanted to speed things up, we could try and make a redox cell out of the whole thing. IIRC you'll need to make the safe electropositive (to attract the negative chloride ions) and then put an inert electrode into the top of the pipe thats negative (such as the graphite in a pencil). The half cell voltages aren't very high (0.41V to be exact, if i've calculated correctly) and ~12V (such as from your trusty Z) would be more than enough. With that kind of voltage, expect to see some other interesting reactions go on. That being said, unless you've got some kind of heavy duty resistor or something, you probably don't want to short out your battery/alternator so I'd personally stick away from the assisted corrosion!
If all else fails, I hear Al + FeO3 works a treat with a burning strip of magnesium. :D
-Mike
chemistry major are we???
Forget the bases, they aren't going to do you any good (Ammonia and drain cleaner). The best the base will do is produce a metal alkali complex which isn't going to help you much.
As for the acid, you can grab some muriatic acid (hydrochloric) from the hardware store thats a rather good molarity. The stuff around here is close to 8M if i calculated correctly, which is slightly fuming (so don't breathe it in if you value your nasal passages)
Now I'm not quite sure what metal most safes would be made from, but I would assume some form of either cast iron or stainless steel. If it's cast iron, you're laughing. If its stainless steel, its going to take a while.
The reaction is as follows:
Acid + Metal --> Salt + Water + Hydrogen + heat
Firstly, you'll need to sand down the safe where you're going to be putting the acid. We need a shiny metal surface so the acid doesn't have to waste any time trying to eat through paint or anything.
Then, you'll need to grab some kind of inert pipe (maybe plastic, glass would be ideal though) and put it straight onto the sanded metal, sticking upright. then use an oily putty to seal the contact point.
Once you've done this, just fill the pipe up with hydrochloric acid and stir it every now and then to mix it up. Ideally, what you want is for the metal to start fizzing straight away, but depending on the metal and the molarity of hydrochloric acid you're using, it probably isn't going to happen. You will need to change the acid in the pipe every few days because its pH is going to rise and get closer to neutral the more the reaction progresses, limiting its speed and effect.
If you really wanted to speed things up, we could try and make a redox cell out of the whole thing. IIRC you'll need to make the safe electropositive (to attract the negative chloride ions) and then put an inert electrode into the top of the pipe thats negative (such as the graphite in a pencil). The half cell voltages aren't very high (0.41V to be exact, if i've calculated correctly) and ~12V (such as from your trusty Z) would be more than enough. With that kind of voltage, expect to see some other interesting reactions go on. That being said, unless you've got some kind of heavy duty resistor or something, you probably don't want to short out your battery/alternator so I'd personally stick away from the assisted corrosion!
If all else fails, I hear Al + FeO3 works a treat with a burning strip of magnesium. :D
-Mike
chemistry major are we???
MikeMan
08-29-2005, 06:59 AM
Nah I just love chemistry and I have ever since I accidentally made cyanide in the shed with my chemistry kit. THE DOCTORS SAY I MIGHT HAVE BRAIN DAMAGE :D
I'd hate to do it at uni though, as I'd have to sit through the first two boring years learning everything again. Then again, thats what I'm doing for my Bachelor of Computer Science and its boring as hell. I'm seriously considering transferring to Aeronautical Engineering though as I've got a few ideas I'd like to try to get off the ground (please excuse that really awful pun) :D
-Mike
I'd hate to do it at uni though, as I'd have to sit through the first two boring years learning everything again. Then again, thats what I'm doing for my Bachelor of Computer Science and its boring as hell. I'm seriously considering transferring to Aeronautical Engineering though as I've got a few ideas I'd like to try to get off the ground (please excuse that really awful pun) :D
-Mike
k3smostwanted
08-29-2005, 07:04 AM
Nah I just love chemistry and I have ever since I accidentally made cyanide in the shed with my chemistry kit. THE DOCTORS SAY I MIGHT HAVE BRAIN DAMAGE :D
I'd hate to do it at uni though, as I'd have to sit through the first two boring years learning everything again. Then again, thats what I'm doing for my Bachelor of Computer Science and its boring as hell. I'm seriously considering transferring to Aeronautical Engineering though as I've got a few ideas I'd like to try to get off the ground (please excuse that really awful pun) :D
-Mike
:lol: that was a pretty bad pun...but nicely delivered. :D
anyways, i like chemistry but i dont like it in school. basically that is the story of my life though. :/
I'd hate to do it at uni though, as I'd have to sit through the first two boring years learning everything again. Then again, thats what I'm doing for my Bachelor of Computer Science and its boring as hell. I'm seriously considering transferring to Aeronautical Engineering though as I've got a few ideas I'd like to try to get off the ground (please excuse that really awful pun) :D
-Mike
:lol: that was a pretty bad pun...but nicely delivered. :D
anyways, i like chemistry but i dont like it in school. basically that is the story of my life though. :/
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