In progress - Tamiya Honda F-1RA 272

With my Tamiya 300ZX Convertible now completed, I needed to find another project. I’ve built four convertible cars in a row and getting pretty bored of them, so now I wanted to build an F1 car for a change, but didn’t feel that my skills were good enough to tackle the more complex Tamiya F1 kits. I also wanted to enter the 80's contest, but I didn't want the pressure of getting a perfect model out to compete with, as my skills are nothing compared to what I've been seeing, so thought, 60's.. :lol2: I'll have my own 60's contest.. Being a bit of a Honda F1 fan, and seeing how the only recent Honda F1 car, the BAR is only available from the more complex multi-media kits, I’ve opted for the much simpler, and more basic Tamiya Honda F-1RA 272. I got the kit cheap (another cheap one) from ebay so if it goes wrong, not loosing too much money.

http://www.blurryimage.com/pic.php?mode=O&pid=33125

The kit is actually pretty detailed, not to the standards of say the newest Williams FW24 kit, but nonetheless it still looks to be good base to make this legendary Honda F1 car. This was in fact Honda’s first F1 car to score a victory for them at the Mexican GP, and was the start of many success story’s for Honda and their very successful F1 career. The car I will build will be number 11, as driven by Richie Ginther, and who won Honda’s first win in F1. Its predecessor was less successful, the F-1RA 271, but this was Honda’s first attempts at F1. Many teams that have been and gone in recent years could only hope to gain a victory after just two seasons like Honda did, in fact even Honda today are having problems scoring a win. The car is a classic F1 car, much before my time, but older F1 cars have always fascinated me, I think partly due to the fact in the 60’s and 70’s I would have loved to have seen them, but only being born in 1973 meant I never got to actually enjoy the true spectacle they must have been.. How weird these cars must have looked to those watching them.

All I’ve done so far is some research into the car from various F1 history sites, took the contents out of the box, and looked around for a detail set. I’ve found a decent detail set, so will order that. Need to make a start somewhere with photoetch parts, and other then this, the build is going to be OOB.

http://www.blurryimage.com/pic.php?mode=O&pid=33124

There aren’t many decals, which should make this a little easier, and the tires are pre-decaled making this even easier yet. Full engine detail, and clear covers for the engine. I’m not sure as if to spray them white yet, or leave them as clear to allow a full view of the engine with the cover on.

This will be the progress thread for the build, and as always I’ll post updates as I build the kit.

Have never seen this kit before. Looks cool anyway so I will be watching.

I've just placed an order for Acu.stion photoetch detail upgrade set for the F-1RA272 and some metal turned trumpets, managed to find a UK supplier - problem is they might take 4 weeks to get to me. Looks like this might be a long project..

I was thinking about picking up one of these, so i'll be watching how it turns out and decide. like the shape and transverse engine a lot though, so maybe i'll just buy it anyway :biggrin:

If you need a good reference, Júlio has a pretty good write up of the build.
You can find the english version here:http://www.f1modeler.com/diarios/honda-272/html/montagem1-2ingl.htm

Good luck with that. I also have this kit to build and I'm itching to start it! :)

Cheers,
Pedro.

If you need a good reference, Júlio has a pretty good write up of the build.
You can find the english version here:http://www.f1modeler.com/diarios/honda-272/html/montagem1-2ingl.htm

Good luck with that. I also have this kit to build and I'm itching to start it! :)

Cheers,
Pedro.


Many thanks for that.. Very handy, will come in well useful. The wires looked well cool, and easy enough to do actually... What can I use to make the wires? Electrical wire might be a touch out of scale I would have thought.. Can you buy 1/20 F1 engine wires from anywhere?

I'll do search and see what I get..

Started to clean up the parts, slow going as the parts are very fragile. This model has some really small parts, even the body is small.

http://www.blurryimage.com/pic.php?mode=O&pid=33187

Some early test fitting. Tamiya kits always seem to fit well. Had to do some cleanup of mold lines etc but on the whole appears to be fitting well. Still have to be careful though, as the parts are easy to bend and snap.

http://www.blurryimage.com/pic.php?mode=O&pid=33189

Test fitting and cleanup of some the interior parts. Northing really to show, but it gives an idea of how it fits together.

http://www.blurryimage.com/pic.php?mode=O&pid=33190

Now, this is something I not happy with, not at all. The engine trumpets part has a major molding fault. One of the down pipes for the upper trumpet is missing. It was like this when I cut the part from the sprue. I’m not happy at all. I will be calling Tamiya UK spares when they are open and requesting a replacement, as this is a kit fault. I am not fixing this, as I never buggered it. I’ll even send them the part back if they want it, the kit is still in production I think so a spare should be easy to get..!! I hope..

http://www.blurryimage.com/pic.php?mode=O&pid=33191

And also I’ve ripped a USB cable to bits to get some wires. I think the thickness in MM is correct, and I’ve done a test with attaching a wire end with CA glue to a spare bit of plastic. They hold, but it’s not strong, as CA glue has good pulling forces, but not very good flexing force. Bend the wire too much it snaps off, but pulling and it stays well firm. Should be OK.

http://www.blurryimage.com/pic.php?mode=O&pid=33192

That’s it. P/E and metal trumpets on order, so will continue with the parts cleanup. No rush just taking my time.

Best of luck, I built this kitset about 4 years ago and it was a pleasure to build, mine was nothing of the standard seen on these forums but it was a real nice kitset.

Will be keeping an eye on progress.

WRCfan

great project and the best thing another Honda F1 Fan... :iceslolan

Done a lot of parts cleanup. The parts have mold lines all over them, I thought the Nissan 300ZX I just built was bad, this is just mold line after mold line. Thankfully easy enough to clean off with a file and sand paper, parts need washing now to remove all the dust.

http://www.blurryimage.com/pic.php?mode=O&pid=33273

Also the front radiator -?? What ever it is needed a lot of work. The part was in two halves; simply sticking them together wasn’t enough. I’ve got the P/E set to detail the part further, but I had to fill the gap and sand, then fill again and re-sand. Will prime but I should think it will need a final surface fill and then I can attach the P/E parts. When the P/E parts get here.

http://www.blurryimage.com/pic.php?mode=O&pid=33274

Now, the engine looks to be simply stunning on this kit. I’ve cleaned up the pin holes, cleaned the mold lines up, and glued what I can together. The exhaust was full of lines, all sanded, not glued to the engine to allow for painting, and when I get them (I should have ordered the parts ages ago.. Lesson learnt) I’ve got new metal turned trumpets and P/E manifold parts coming. Will spray with Alclad II paints, should look pretty stunning when completed.

http://www.blurryimage.com/pic.php?mode=O&pid=33275

Need to order some paints TS sprays etc, but will start priming sometime soon.

Nice steady progress!

Nice one MB. Can't say I'm a huge fan of the pre-90's F1 cars, but I'll be keeping an eye on your build for any bits and pieces of useful 'technique' info.

That engine should be awsome when it's all painted and detailed up! :bigthumb:

I’ve done some more parts preparation, prime many parts but they still needed sanding afterwards. The injection holes and molding lines are pretty bad on this kit. I’m not sure if it’s me getting more fussy as I build these kits, but I seem to notice the lines easily now, and I don’t like them. As can be seen, a lot of work needed -

http://www.blurryimage.com/pic.php?mode=O&pid=33375

Did manage to get plenty of parts primed and to an acceptable level though, many parts look pretty good and ready for painting now.

http://www.blurryimage.com/pic.php?mode=O&pid=33380

I’ve decided to not spray the wheel rims semi gloss black. The entire ref: pictures I’ve seen do not seem to have the wheels as pure black. Magnesium will be my color of choice to best match the ref: photos I’ve got. Alclad II will do nicely for this.

I’ve also seen a build with the fuel pipes in RED. The ref: pictures I’ve seen are not red. They are a golden clear yellow/ orange. I’m looking into ideas for this, posted asking for help, many ideas. Heated clear sprue, fishing line, brought clear hose etc… Got some clear fishing line coming tomorrow from a friend at work who is fishing mad, tried the heated sprue tonight and gotta say.. Heated sprue seemed easy enough with a painted mix of clear yellow, orange and smoke..

Also got conformation today that the P/E parts are now on order, should be with me in the next week or two. This will allow for brake details, manifold details etc.. This, as I mentioned will not be a quick build..

Looking good Mick. I built the Hasegawa 1/24, very nice kit by the way. The only thing that steered me away from the Tamiya was the screws holding the engine side covers on, what are your plans for this.

I'm building this kit, here's a few tips.....
http://www.tuttomodel.it/forum/files/dscn2371.jpg

http://www.tuttomodel.it/forum/files/dscn2385.jpg

http://www.tuttomodel.it/forum/files/dscn2476.jpg

I'm building this kit, here's a few tips.....


That is looking well good. I've just brought a pin vise and I am going to simply drill the exhaust tips out.. Your idea is a bit beyond my skill level at the moment.

As for the screws, I was simply going to paint the heads white once installed. Lazy but easy..!!

Well, in despite of me being in a pretty bad mood today.. Another story, I’ve done some work on the old Honda F1. I got a pin vise and some drills, and after some practice I thought it would be nice idea to drill the exhaust ends. Was a little tricky, more tricky then I thought. I’ve buggered one end up, so have had to fill this with putty and waiting for it to dry and then I’ll try again. Did get three of them right though.

http://www.blurryimage.com/pic.php?mode=O&pid=33631

Looks a lot better with drilled ends, and I’ve also made a start with the wheels. I’ve not sprayed them Semi Gloss Black like recommended in the Tamiya Paint guide. All the ref: pictures I got just didn’t seem to have black wheels. In this picture it’s very clear that they are not black http://www.ebimemo.net/diary/pic/200410/IMG_3095.jpg and even more obvious they are not black in this picture http://netwarp.ddo.jp/rhv/f1/ra272/AUT_0835.jpg so used some alclad II magnesium. Not as dark as I’d hoped for, but looks just like metal. Very smooth, this Alclad II paint is darn expensive but it looks fantastic and goes on soooo smooth.

http://www.blurryimage.com/pic.php?mode=O&pid=33630

Wondering whether to clear them, but I don’t think it needs it. I won’t put the silver band round like in the paint guide, as again ref: pictures I have don’t show this. Just pick out the bolts etc and put the tires on – job done.

Wish this P/E set would turn up. Could do with soon.

Rims look nice with the tires and bolts detailed..

http://www.blurryimage.com/pic.php?mode=O&pid=33635

Now I just need a car to attach them to.. :lol:

Doing a great job! I'm still trying to improve my skills before I tackle this one. On my shelf though, and I tend to go rummaging through the box quite a bit (more rummaging than building, unfortunately....)

Keep going..

Murray

Wheels on this one are fantastic, I have Hasegawa 1/24 one and I was going to steel them for few times but I realy want to build this one. You are doing fantastic job, now get some fishing cable and make those fuel lines ;)

Thanks for the great comments so far. The wheels do look pretty cool. I applied the Alclad II Magnesium over grey primer as recommended on the back of the bottle, turned out pretty good in the end.

I’ve primed the body parts, cleaned and then primed again. I can’t see anymore mold lines etc. Were not that bad, no flash but a fair amount of mold lines etc.. I must be getting fussy as I build these, as now I’m looking over the parts like a hawk. I decided the paint the rear engine cowl, as clear plastic doesn’t look right. I will just use the screws to attach it, and paint the screw heads white. Lazy, but safer…

http://www.blurryimage.com/pic.php?mode=O&pid=33699

And I’ve also sprayed and detailed the brake discs. I hope this was correct, as I’ve got some P/E parts coming and there will be new disc facers coming…!! Oh well, I can always paint them again. Wish these P/E parts would get here. Been nearly two weeks now. From a UK supplier.. Building models takes time, but getting the parts takes even longer so it would seem… I’m almost at a stage where I don’t know if I should carry on until I get these P/E parts, as who knows what I might have to do.

http://www.blurryimage.com/pic.php?mode=O&pid=33700

Still, got that exhaust tip to fix up yet. And I think it will be safe to spray the body. See how it goes really.

Looking great so far mickbench. Looking forward to seeing more progress reports from you.

OK, the Honda is having a few issues. I had a few problems spraying the body parts as the paint wasn’t very good. I’ve got new paint coming, and the body parts that are ruined are currently in a bath of Brake Fluid.

Another problem, the clear parts for the engine cover were ruined by the paintjob that went wrong. The parts are thin, and for some odd reason have cracked badly in the fluid I put them in. I can repair them, but I think Tamiya Spares are coming to the rescue on this one, as I needed a new engine part to replace the defective one in the box.

However, progress is still being made, as these problems are just minor setbacks. This model is destined for the shelf as I’ve got a spot for it, and even if it kills me I’m putting this model in that spot.

Finished the exhausts, did the tips with a drill, fixed the one I buggered up, not a bad patch up really and an important lesson with plastic and drills – it drills really easy, this shot is after a few goes at sanding smooth, it looks a lot better now, as I managed to sand an almost perfect circle in the end. I forgot to take a shot once it was completely sanded smooth.. Ooops..!!

http://www.blurryimage.com/pic.php?mode=O&pid=33808

Sprayed them flat black, I’ll dry brush with gun metal later on, damn shame you can really see the drilled holes.. I couldn’t get my camera to focus in the light, as its dark outside so show the holes I made.. I’m really proud of them, as this is my first kit modifications.. OK, nothing spectacular, but it’s a start.

http://www.blurryimage.com/pic.php?mode=O&pid=33809

Done the interior panels, and this is a shot of what is essentially now completed. Apart from the brakes, they need the P/E facers putting on. Nothing really to look at, but I’m working on it.. Takes time to build F1 cars, the parts are so small I’m working with, rushing it would break something..!!

http://www.blurryimage.com/pic.php?mode=O&pid=33810

I’ll get some more TS-7 white, and I'll get all those bloody body parts completed. I’ll also make a start on the engine soon.. I’m also chasing those P/E parts as well. Should be here by now.




Well, I’ll keep plodding on.. Wish me luck..

I've always enjoyed seeing how you handle and paint your parts, nice start, the wheels and brakes look top notch.

OK. Started on the engine, and I’ve not followed the build guide, as it was very wrong. Ref: pictures I have show nearly all the engine block in gold. Piston covers, Manifold facers etc are duralumin, and the rest will be picked out in blacks and silvers to best match the real Honda Engine.

Painted the engine block and smaller engine parts with grey primer, sprayed with semi gloss black and then sprayed with pale gold, burnt metal gold and duralumin Alcald II paints.

This shot shows a mock up. Needs a lot of detail painting.

http://www.blurryimage.com/pic.php?mode=O&pid=33837

In this shot you can see the holes I drilled for the exhaust tips.

http://www.blurryimage.com/pic.php?mode=O&pid=33838

And this is a shot of the engine parts being detailed… Picking out the bolts, little details etc in black and silver enamels. Will give it a small wash with black ink, and a little bit of dry brushing.. I’m going for a never been raced, show F1 car so don’t want a dirty looking engine so got to be careful if I want to make it look new.

http://www.blurryimage.com/pic.php?mode=O&pid=33840

And that is it for tonight.. I did chase the P/E parts. Told it would take at least another two weeks to get them. I should have ordered them from Japan or something.. This is stupid. www.grandprixmodels.co.uk is not very fast at fulfilling orders, or so it would seem. Still, seem a friendly and helpful bunch.

If anyone wants to see more progress pictures, you can from this link -

http://www.blurryimage.com/show_gallery.php?gid=1975

I’ve got to stop using Alclad II paints. This is going to cost a lot of money soon..!! I’ve done the driveshafts in polished Aluminum, just as my ref pictures show it.. Build guide asked for black, not what the pictures I have show. More like silver/black ish.. I hope it looks good.. I'm not sure if this is now looknig a little overkill with metal paints.. I can never tell if I'm taking this too far with detail.. Ooh..!!!! :uhoh:

http://www.blurryimage.com/pic.php?mode=O&pid=33881

Also done the dash, and drybrushed the dials etc.. Also dry brushed the engine block to put a bit of silver into some areas, details added such as bolts, small parts in blacks etc.. All dry fitted so far. Managed to find a picture of the P/E parts I’ve got on order… Nearly all of it looks to be added afterwards. Thankfully… Looks like nearly all of it doesn’t need to be painted either. Bonus..!!

I’ll make a start in the chassis next, as well as the seats and lay down the final coats of TS-7 racing white.. Got some more paint, woohoo..!! Gotta say, didn’t think this would be hard build, but it’s not as easy as it looks.. Very small parts..

No matter what, it looks fantastic!

Niclas

WOW looks awesome!! just the right amount of metal paint if you ask me :smokin:

Phew, so not gone overkill with the metal paints then.. I didn’t think I was, but you never know, sometimes you can overdo something’s and wreck the look you were going for…

Made more progress today, painted the front radiator with a mix of X 12 gold and X 9 brown. It looks a bit like Bronze, just not so dark. Looks pretty nice. I’ve also made a start on the chassis components.. Had to be careful with the masking, as the parts are very fragile.

http://www.blurryimage.com/pic.php?mode=O&pid=33894

Sprayed parts flat black, semi gloss black and picked out some details in silver and gold. Also done some detail work on small parts. The box is getting full of parts now, and got some more paint.

http://www.blurryimage.com/pic.php?mode=O&pid=33896

http://www.blurryimage.com/pic.php?mode=O&pid=33890

Two bottles of X 22 clear and two tins of TS – 7 racing white. Will clear the decals with the clear, as I’m not using TS clears… I haven’t got the balls to do it..!!

Thanks for the comments so far… I’m getting there, still lots to do..

MB I think you might be better off using an enamel clear.
I recently found out the hard way that Tamiya TS paints (lacquer) and Tamiya acrylics REALLY don't like each other. I think it has to do with the lacquer base being oil, and the acrylic base being water (correct me if I'm wrong anyone). Would just hate to see you nearly finish the build, shoot clear over the white top coat and decals, and watch in horror as things bubbled up on you...

Captain Mark, you are right and wrong. The two do hate each other, but only if the acrylic is underneath the lacquer. Acryl over TS is fine. Regardless, it would be safer to go with an acrylic clear, if you are not sure you want to risk using lacquer. It can sometimes eat the decals if applied too heavily.

Looking good, Mickbench!

I've got the body now painted again, the TS-7 white I got this time went on without problems, and was much better. I must have had a bad can, anyhow it's now painted and has a nice gloss... No orange peel at all. I was planning on putting the decals on, leaving the decals to dry completely, giving the body after decals a wash to remove any marks etc, and then clearning with X22 to protect the decals etc..

I know X 22 is harder to polish out, as it takes a month to harden off, but better then using TS clear and watching the decals being eaten..!!

Take it this is safe? X 22 might not need much polish anyhow, as it tends to lay down smoothly if you apply it well.. I think..!!

Oh Captain Mark, why are you going to throw your BAR at the wall? I hope you don't..

Haha... you noticed my sig I see! What with all the odd, twisting and prominant parts of the bodywork on the BAR, it's made it very difficult for me to lay down a even coat of Tamiya TS? (Pure White). I'm not a fan of these cans anymore. Anyway, I thought I'd sorted it, and realised half way through polishing the white that most of the mould lines had been flooded, and needed rescribing! After all the little hicups on this build I decided to put it in the cupboard for a few weeks instead of throwing it in frustration... and then ordered some PE scribing blades.

Just working again on my Leyton House kit, which is coming along VERY nicely. This one should be my first CF decal project!

Anyway, sorry to hijack things...
Looking foward to seeing the painted, cleared and polished body on your build! Just make sure you put enough clear on. When polishing out the front wing of my BAR I realised the clear was too thin, and I could feel the decal while I was polishing. It was pretty nerve racking, just hoping I didn't go through to the decal!
Keep up the great work!

M

I’ve painted and applied decals to the main body section. It’s not a large body, and had very few decals. The decals were big though, and they were very thick. Didn’t rip or anything, but setting solutions took more then one application to melt the decals to the surface..

The paint has a tint of yellow, to be expected really but I’ll wait for it to fully dry now, and then clear with X22 clear (Acrylic clear that is) and I hope this doesn’t go all wrong on me… I’ll apply very light mists to build the protection up, and then apply a wet once 5 mists are applied..

http://www.blurryimage.com/pic.php?mode=O&pid=33912

http://www.blurryimage.com/pic.php?mode=O&pid=33911

Still the nose to do, but I can’t do anything with this until my P/E parts arrive, as I need to look at the set to see if I want to use the catches or not.. If I do I’ll need to sand off the molded catches first..

Haha... you noticed my sig I see! What with all the odd, twisting and prominant parts of the bodywork on the BAR, it's made it very difficult for me to lay down a even coat of Tamiya TS? (Pure White). I'm not a fan of these cans anymore. Anyway, I thought I'd sorted it, and realised half way through polishing the white that most of the mould lines had been flooded, and needed rescribing! After all the little hicups on this build I decided to put it in the cupboard for a few weeks instead of throwing it in frustration... and then ordered some PE scribing blades.


M

You take it easy with the build, it'll come in the end...!! I too sometimes hate Tamiya Cans.. But most of the time they are OK. I had problems with a can of racing white.. I threw that can around the garage last night to make me feel better, as I know that can was dud..!!

Hang in there..!!

Detailed the underchassis. Masking tape nightmare, this is the masking in progress.. Took hours to mask off.. It is so small to work with, almost all the cutting has to be done on the part, have to be really careful.

http://www.blurryimage.com/pic.php?mode=O&pid=34071


This is the chassis after masking, spraying and then detailing the small parts with a brush. Silver is a mix of X 16 and X 11, used semi gloss for the blacks, and then detailed with a brush the gold tips and front hoses etc..

http://www.blurryimage.com/pic.php?mode=O&pid=34074

I’ve also now cleared the body with X 22. Weird stuff to work with, looks dull until it dries then it goes glossy..!! Odd, also hard to tell where you have been, plus I used my airbrush, and I’ve not sprayed many bodies with an airbrush. Mostly use cans, so learning curve there.

http://www.blurryimage.com/pic.php?mode=O&pid=34075

I have no idea why the Honda has the H a little off from the rest, it’s the same on both sides, guess this is what the Decals are meant to look like, still done now. Just needs 4 weeks to harden..!!!

Still loads to do yet..!!

Looking excellent! I am very impressed. I hope I can do this well when I finally bust out mine. Great work!

Seems to me like the paint is too yellow to be racing white? Or is it just me? Progress on the engine looks nice.

Glad the clear worked out well! Good work!

Seems to me like the paint is too yellow to be racing white? Or is it just me? Progress on the engine looks nice.

It's rubbish paint. Using Tamiya TS7 racing white, and it is too yellow. Looks like cream, but actually when looked at in natural light it looks "almost" right. I took the pictures last night and it was dark and used a dodgy flash on my camera.

It'll have to do now, as it's all I've got. I read that Tamiya Racing white is a little too cream, should have got some auto paints instead.

This picture shows the white a little better - not so yellowish looking but still has a cream look.

http://www.blurryimage.com/pic.php?mode=O&pid=34076

I think it's lookin good Mick. Just imagine that it's a 'real' old car which has yellowed with age!

Can you use the Tamaya acryl clear in an airbrush? And if you do, do you need to thin it or anything, or just straight shoot it?

It's rubbish paint. Using Tamiya TS7 racing white, and it is too yellow. Looks like cream, but actually when looked at in natural light it looks "almost" right. I took the pictures last night and it was dark and used a dodgy flash on my camera.

It IS supposed to be a cream color. The old Honda F1 cars were not pure white.

The Honda RA 272 build is not dead. I’ve been slowly working away on it, and I’ve got a box full of parts all painted and detailed.

http://www.blurryimage.com/pic.php?mode=O&pid=35188

Done the engine mount arms, and these were tricky, as the ends needed to be TS 7 white and the rest semi gloss black. I also had to clear the white, as the body is cleared, so many steps and lots of painting, spraying, drying and masking etc..

http://www.blurryimage.com/pic.php?mode=O&pid=35190

I’ve finally re-painted the parts I messed up on a few weeks back. I was holding off for the front nose cone as I’m pretty sure the P/E set I’ve got on order has some upgrades for the nose cone, but they haven’t turned up, in fact I’m starting to think I’m never going to get them so thought sod it.. Just continue.. I only wanted the P/E mesh and brake discs anyhow, and the metal turned trumpets..

http://www.blurryimage.com/pic.php?mode=O&pid=35196

Cockpit is simplistic at best. Added some cigarette inserts to the front, to look like the metal plate mounted on top where the fuel tanks and steering rod are. The radiator is not a bad match, but the mesh is silver, so P/E parts will do nice just there. Will finish it off a treat.

http://www.blurryimage.com/pic.php?mode=O&pid=35197

Sprayed and detailed the engine firewall. Tricky to paint the silver wires, but it came out in the end. Toothpicks and lots of time prevailed.

http://www.blurryimage.com/pic.php?mode=O&pid=35198

And a close up of the suspension, that I spent HOURS detailing. Consider this is all one piece as I didn’t cut them up and add my own springs, this is all painted they look pretty convincing. Real springs would have been better, but this looks OK. Also done a rear tank, what ever it is. Dry brushing worked a treat.

http://www.blurryimage.com/pic.php?mode=O&pid=35200

And that is it for now. Will decal the nose cone, clear and then I am stuck until the P/E parts arrive. Don’t like having more then one car on the go at the same time, so going to have some spare time soon, unless grandprixmodels come through for me, in which I doubt…

Those suspension parts really did come up nice! Time well spent.

Sometimes I leave months between updates (I'm just a slow builder), so don't sweat a week or so... hehe

All those components are looking really nice. Take your time putting them all together, the result is sure to be awesome.

looks super Mike!

I'm surprised by your experience with grandprixmodels, they've always deliverd to me in Poland within a few days. Were the parts you ordered in stock? They usually show that on the web site. If not, maybe they have had to order them from the maufacturer?

PS did the drill bits reach you yet?

Great and tidy work Mike, this one will make you proud in the end. Keep it up.

Mick, lookin really, really nice. Love the suspension. Just shows how perseverence and patience can repay you!

P.S. Will send you that ford mask this week. Be careful when opening the envelope. It's the only thing in there and it's tiny!

Thanks for the great comments guys.. And yep, I'm not happy the P/E parts from grandprixmodels have not turned up. It said around 4 weeks on their website and it has now been 4 weeks. I've got that sinking feeling..!!

Anyhow I've applied the decals to the nose cone. The red circle, ooh..!! That was a git to apply... But it's now on and all I've got to do now is clear and that's done. I applied the Honda Badge, it was optional, but applied it anyway.

http://www.blurryimage.com/pic.php?mode=O&pid=35236

I've noticed a few "small" dust marks in the main body, they are in the clear coat, not too happy with that. Was hoping to get away without using any polishing, and just wax. I've got zero orange peel.. Great..!! Might just wax anyway and ignore the dust marks.

And that is all for tonight.. Once the final body parts are cleared, no more progress until I get P/E parts. Oh well lesson learnt, ORDER parts WELL before you start a model..

Looks great! Too bad the PE set didn't come.

Looking excellent, Mick! I really like the detailed approach you are taking with this RA-272. It's going to stand out in a crowd when done.

After your first several performances, I am expecting a superb result with this one! I know you won't let me down. :)

I’ve cleared all the body parts now. These body parts have had some paint applied to them. I applied three mists of TS7 white, a slightly heavy coat of white, another mist of white and then a VERY heavy wet coat.

I then decaled the parts that needed decals, and then applied three mists of X22 Acrylic clear. I then applied two slightly heavy coats of clear and then allowed to dry. I then removed a few dust specks, you always seem to get one or two, and then I thinned the X22 down some more, to make a much thinner clear and applied a VERY wet coat of clear. It almost ran in a few places on some parts and on one it did run a little.

The parts are now dry, and I can’t see a single run so that run actually went away after it started to dry down (weird), but a got a few small dust specks, but nothing a good rub with cutting compound will not remove. The finished paint job looks OK this was my fist air brushed body paintjob.. Not bad for an Amateur.

http://www.blurryimage.com/pic.php?mode=O&pid=35527

http://www.blurryimage.com/pic.php?mode=O&pid=35528

http://www.blurryimage.com/pic.php?mode=O&pid=35529

http://www.blurryimage.com/pic.php?mode=O&pid=35530

http://www.blurryimage.com/pic.php?mode=O&pid=35531

I intend to paint the inside of the parts flat black, to stop any light passing through, and this is the boyd now done. The P/E parts I ordered had a P/E Honda badge, I used the decal in the end. I’m not happy with grandprixmodels.co.uk. as it will be FIVE weeks soon to get the P/E parts. I think that is crazy. Media mix in Singapore would have been faster, a LOT faster, and so from now onwards, I order P/E parts from them.

As long as I can use the brake discs and the meshes, along with the foot pedals and a few small parts from the P/E set, this build will be OK. I’ve still to the metal turned trumpets “AGAIN” from grandprixmodels to arrive yet.. VERY poor backordering system. You wait for weeks, and no emails telling you of what is going on. I might not even get the parts.

Thanks for the all the comments. The build is almost “parked” until P/E parts now arrive. Nothing more can be done.

Looking good!
Whatever model you're planning on doing next though, you'd better start ordering the details kits now...!

Looking good!
Whatever model you're planning on doing next though, you'd better start ordering the details kits now...!

Yep, learnt my lesson... Model car building is not like shopping at the local TESCO. Had no idea it would take 5 plus weeks to get some detail upgrades.

Next model is a FORD RS Focus WRC 2002. I've already ordered SMS CF and SMS P/E parts.

Anyhow, the body parts are now drying I'm just going to rub them with Tamiya Compound, and I'm not using any auotmotive polishes or anything as this might disolve the clear. X22 is not as hard as TS13 or Auto Clears, so needs careful handling.

Hi, update on the Honda RA272 build. After a VERY long wait www.grandprixmodels.co.uk did send me the P/E parts, and TBH for what I paid, you don’t get a lot. Was very surprised. Details are nice though.

http://www.blurryimage.com/pic.php?mode=O&pid=36013

I also got some 0.35mm clear fishing line to see if I could recreate the fuel lines.. Oh dear, my pin vise skills surely do suck… The holes were not very good, but it’ll have to do. Need to add a little clear yellow/orange mix.

http://www.blurryimage.com/pic.php?mode=O&pid=37969

Started to add some P/E parts. Front grill, brake discs etc.. I had to buy a set of Tamiya P/E scissors in the end, as with my shaking hands, and the way I handle knifes I’d have either cut my fingers off or would have lost so many parts..!! They are sooooo small.. I glued the front grill first, and made a right mess of it.. Did better with the brake discs..

http://www.blurryimage.com/pic.php?mode=O&pid=37970

The P/E parts really do bring a whole new look. Very pricey, but look to give the model a much cleaner look. But the cost..!!

http://www.blurryimage.com/pic.php?mode=O&pid=37974

Started to assemble the chassis. Went OK. No Problems here.

http://www.blurryimage.com/pic.php?mode=O&pid=37977

Inside panels with gear lever now glued on.

http://www.blurryimage.com/pic.php?mode=O&pid=37979

Pedals with more P/E. Stuck them on with clear.. And used the inners of a cigarette packet for the front arm bridge. Looks nice actually.

http://www.blurryimage.com/pic.php?mode=O&pid=37981

But, attaching the seat etc to the chassis is VERY tricky.. I’ve been forced to stick it all down with sticky tape until the glue all sets, as the pull away from the chassis is very strong. Little worried this is going to go bad on me. I’ll pull the tape of VERY carefully, but this could end in tears.!! I tried an elastic band, but I didn’t have one the right size. Tape was the next best thing, but after I did it, I thought, that was risky. I risk pulling paint of now..!! Fingers crossed..!!I might pull the tape off with the aid of water..!!

http://www.blurryimage.com/pic.php?mode=O&pid=37982

Looks nice from this angle. Engine only dry fitted, some more work to be do on this yet.

http://www.blurryimage.com/pic.php?mode=O&pid=37983

Top down view. Model looks much longer now parts are being attached.

http://www.blurryimage.com/pic.php?mode=O&pid=37985

Test fitted the front nose cone. It fits..!! Bonus

http://www.blurryimage.com/pic.php?mode=O&pid=37987

And that is it. Sorry for the long update. I’ve spend 3 nights putting this lot together. I’ve really struggled, had to learn new skills, I don’t know if this build is going to turn out OK, as I’m having problems, and my nerves are nearly shot..!! If the tape I foolishy put on comes off I might pull this model off, if not.. Oh no..!! Back to the paintshop I guess..!!

Thanks for reading.

Tamiya masking tape would have been better than the scotch tape.

Tamiya masking tape would have been better than the scotch tape.

Tried that, didn't hold. The side with the gear lever was pulling away, as it's a tight fit. All the primer, paint etc had made the parts a VERY tight fit.. I reomved paint best I could, but in the end CA glue and cello tape was the only answer.

I've now pulled the tape off, carefully and thankfully it's OK. Parts are stuck and no paint was pulled up.

I'll make a start on the air funnels tomorrow, and see about getting the engine installed. This model is going to leave me a wreck..!! :lol2:

I wondered if you were still making progress - looking good. I think you're on the home stretch now!