Remote power on wire?

A friend of mine wants to hook up an amp and subs... the amp has the remote power on wire... his stereo doesn't have the blue wire to hook up to...
I have heard you can and can't just bridge the power wire to the amp to the blue/power remote wire... can this be done?
I don't have a clue... so I figured i'd ask y'all.

He thanks you in advance...

safe thing the remote on's are 12v's... Check if your lighter loses power when the car is shut off... What I did was place a t on the back of mine. Connected it off the lighter. You don't have to touch the stereo wiring then..

The remote start wire on most harness's is there for that reason though I believe.. If it looses power when the car is off and it's +12 when it's on your good to go.

Awesome... thank you. I was curious as to if the remote wire had a specific voltage requirement or if it was a 12V source like a ignition wire.. or as you suggested, a cig lighter... I think his cig lighter doesn't work with the car off so that should work then.
I'll give him a call first thing in the morning so we can get his shit bumpin!!! LOL... Thanks Nova1313

yeah it will be on in accessory but off other times...

A dodge I put a sub in was like that, but my old cavalier's cig lighter and a chevy malibu my gf has do not turn off when the car is off..

The eclipses's also shuts off when the car is off. My led lighting is tied off of that also. It's a 10amp fuse there and I don't smoke so I can tie pretty much off the back...

OK... He got it installed... one problem he had is that off of the speaker wires he had to splice off of to the amp... The stock speakers don't show which is the possitive and negative for the left and right side... How do you check for which is which.. I guess the leads on the speakers/harness are identical and don't say + or -. Any info?
He did get it to work but the amp got really hot... hotter than he remembers it getting in the past. Could this be from the left +,- being opposite going into the amp and the right +,- being the correct way into the amp... or vice versa?

OK... He got it installed... one problem he had is that off of the speaker wires he had to splice off of to the amp... The stock speakers don't show which is the possitive and negative for the left and right side... How do you check for which is which.. I guess the leads on the speakers/harness are identical and don't say + or -. Any info?
He did get it to work but the amp got really hot... hotter than he remembers it getting in the past. Could this be from the left +,- being opposite going into the amp and the right +,- being the correct way into the amp... or vice versa?

well you can trace it back to the stereo.. or if it has a polarized capacitor on it you can check that.... if not then it shouldn't matter. only if it has the polarized capacitor I think it matters anymore..

I know it use to matter on real old speakers not sure if that has changed...

or maybe see if you can find the wire color coding. If your using a line level output box then it's not going to effect the amp i don't think... He may just have the amp turned up a bit more then before so it gets hotter..

Not sure if that makes any sense to you.

It kinda makes sense... well... not really lmao
He has a jeep one year older than mine but basically the same set-up... I checked mine and it is the same... to get to the back of the stereo is a really big pain in the ass!!! We have the factory amp under the back seat and he tapped off of the speaker wires going to the rear speakers to go to the subs amp... pulled the door panel off and pulled the speaker off also to see which wires were what... like I posted before, the speakers don't have a + or- or even a red dot or big tab/small tab to differentiate pos and neg...
It does pound pretty good and makes me want to put my sub in my jeep but jake said my talon will be done next weekend so i'll wait to put it in that :)
The stock system in both my friends jeep and mine have the Infinity Gold set-up so it sounds pretty good for stock....
As for if it has a polarized capacitor or a line level output box.... I haven't the slightest clue... if this might help... Mine is a 1998 TSi and his is a 97 Loredo.... just don't start asking about a flux capacitor :) lol
Thanks for the help NOVA

random off topic story: I was in autozone one day and the cashier picked up the phone next thing I hear is him screaming to the back of the store to the manager can you come help me (at this point I was guessing he was new) so he was looking up a part for the guy on the phone and next thing I know he says straight out I didn't know what category to look under for flux capacitor the guy said he had a 1982 delorean dmc-12. The manager started to laugh so hard at the guy and the cashier got real embarassed cause he had no clue what was going on. I think that was the best prank call ever...

On topic part:
Basically when you take off your rear speakers to your amp for a sub you usually get something (you have to buy it) called a line level output box. It basically takes, pos and negs off both speakers and gives you RCA jacks to go into the amp with.

When you look at the back of the speaker you should see the two posts for the speaker wires. off one of them may be a capacitor (looks like a cylender) if you look on the capacitor you can see if it's labeled + and -. If so it's polarized. If thats the case you now know the pos and neg side of the speaker. I know you said the speaker wasn't labeled but I wasn't sure if you would have checked there...

Optionally if you have a really nice dealer nearby you can always go and ask. Mine is fairly nice (if you ask the right questions)

In my spyder the speakers are not polarized.

Hopefully that cleared some stuff up..

Actually yes.. I do recall that the small tweeter in the center of the rear speaker has that small cylinder inline... BUT the wires going to it aren't marked... they are the uncoated braided wires that go through the main cone....
I'll try or have my friend try what you suggested about the dealership... hopefully that will pan out... or maybe even a best buy install place will help... ha ha ha ha ha.. like they would help!!!
Thanks NOVA

found this site...

If it doesn't have your wire color codes it does have a way to check polarity of a speaker

http://ccs.exl.info/carwires.html

Awesome bro!!! the color codes didn't match up BUT the checking them with a 1.5V battery does work...I tried it on a set I have, currently not used... My friend (and I) thank you for that info!!!
I just called to tell him and he is checking right now... if he can find a battery :)
Thanks again NOVA!!!!!

Well... just an update... you can't always go off of the wires to the speakers being the same as the wires going in/out of the amp... The wires going to the back left and right speakers are blue with white/orange stripe for the pos and neg... the wires coming out of the stock amp are totally different... white with color stripes and brown with color stripes... totally messed up... so after helping him figure out which wires are which... we got his shit hooked up the right way.... and I had to bring a AA battery over cause his broke ass didn't have one!!! lmao..
Thanks for the help NOVA1313

glad you got it working... but I will comment on one thing your friend really is a lazy if he can't even get a AA battery :)

Stereo wiring needs to be color coded all the same in each car! STANDARDIZE IT PLEASE!