2000 Prizm lean fails inspection

I see a pattern on the forums. And I'm in it. :-) :-(

2000 Chevy Prizm from small dealer "fixing up" auction cars. Bought 2003
After got it, had evap system check engine light, local auto shop "repaired" the car under warranty for the small dealer, replacing solenoid. I say "repaired" because just last month another repair shop working on this issue noticed the computer said light was on but no bulb to light up. How about that?

New York State Inspection won't pass with new emission controls. Buring 1 qt oil every 1,000 miles, drive 1,000 every 2 weeks or so commuting.Tail pipe carbonized. Hissing noise under acceleration (esp up hills).

Originally 2 codes P0171 and P0420, but after a tune-up (you can imagine the fouled spark plugs) only P0171 (lean bank 1). Searched really hard for vacuum leak, including brake booster. Spray cleaned MAF sensor and all symptoms went away but came back (hesitation and lack of power with "growling" pulling out into traffic soon after start).

Mechanic and I are thinking a cracked head could cause the lean condition and cause the oil consumption, but for now I have an inspection "waiver" for 1 year.

Any comments on this before I get tempted to spend big $$$???

-Dave

dang here in va they just make sure your tires are st8 an your lights then ur good to go.:( strict newyork

Can that code [po717] be grounds for failure? Check with the inspection people.

Mine has always hissed...don't know why. I think it's just a noisy engine.

Your problem may be a bad, or dirty injector...try some injector cleaner in the tank.

Did all the plugs look bad? I'll see what else can find on this issue...I have heard of cleaning the MAF for the lean bank. Did that other garage remove the MIL lamp? If so, I sue the dealer. BTW. Don't buy any used car unless you own a code scanner.

I too live in NY State. The shit is going to hit the fan in a few years when all these used cars won't pass inspection. It's just a damn money grab for the state, and won't contribute anything to cleaner air

Can that code [po717] be grounds for failure? Check with the inspection people.
Now they plug your car into their computer and it seems to have safeguards so you can't "game" the system. It read the code and failed.

Mine has always hissed...don't know why. I think it's just a noisy engine.

Your problem may be a bad, or dirty injector...try some injector cleaner in the tank.

OK, I won't fret the noise just yet. I've tried 1x the stronger fuel system cleaner. I'll be trying again fall and winter to be sure
Did all the plugs look bad? I'll see what else can find on this issue...I have heard of cleaning the MAF for the lean bank.
Yes, I still have the old plugs and they're all the same. I cleaned the MAF (all 4 wires, including on "inside") and got immediate improvement, even over the tune-up alone. Didn't last long though. And still shows up lean on scanner. After the re-inspection and kooky waiver process it's gone back to a little goofy.

Did that other garage remove the MIL lamp? If so, I sue the dealer.

Hard to prove at this point. Good thing I don't live over that way!!!

BTW. Don't buy any used car unless you own a code scanner.

I agree! Tell all your friends, everyone. Don't buy a used car without checking codes, and if you don't have a code you better live near a friendly Auto Zone!
I too live in NY State. The shit is going to hit the fan in a few years when all these used cars won't pass inspection. It's just a damn money grab for the state, and won't contribute anything to cleaner air
Yeah, but my neighbors from California are laughing--they say it's been that way over there. Slightly different process (waiver vs. arbiter, etc.)

BTW, it continues to use about 1QT/1,000 miles (every 2 weeks for me). Trying AMS synthetic with this punishing routing. Getting bout 34MPG with automatic transmission.

Thanks again.

They just ain't the Corolla we grew up loving are they? Those old one's you could beat hell out of and they just kept going.

Did you ever find out why you were leaking oil? I bought a Prizm 2 years ago in May and about a year ago I noticed I started burning oil. I too drive a lot each week and find that I have to replace the oil at about every 1000 to 1500 miles if I'm doing highway miles.

hi. i've been having the same problem with the same model (also bought used in 2003). have you had any luck or results? it's my first car and i know virtually nothing about cars or fixing them, so tech talk won't help me much. basic symptoms are mainly during the first 5 minutes of driving, the engine putts and then dies, also has trouble accelerating quickly to high speeds (like merging onto a freeway). only thing that has helped slightly is adding fuel injector cleaners every fill-up and using supreme gas. this has helped a bit, but it's getting costly. i've taken it to about 5 or 6 mechanics and none of them can tell me a thing. anyone have any luck finding out the problem? thanks.

I see a pattern on the forums. And I'm in it. :-) :-(

2000 Chevy Prizm from small dealer "fixing up" auction cars. Bought 2003
After got it, had evap system check engine light, local auto shop "repaired" the car under warranty for the small dealer, replacing solenoid. I say "repaired" because just last month another repair shop working on this issue noticed the computer said light was on but no bulb to light up. How about that?

New York State Inspection won't pass with new emission controls. Buring 1 qt oil every 1,000 miles, drive 1,000 every 2 weeks or so commuting.Tail pipe carbonized. Hissing noise under acceleration (esp up hills).

Originally 2 codes P0171 and P0420, but after a tune-up (you can imagine the fouled spark plugs) only P0171 (lean bank 1). Searched really hard for vacuum leak, including brake booster. Spray cleaned MAF sensor and all symptoms went away but came back (hesitation and lack of power with "growling" pulling out into traffic soon after start).

Mechanic and I are thinking a cracked head could cause the lean condition and cause the oil consumption, but for now I have an inspection "waiver" for 1 year.

Any comments on this before I get tempted to spend big $$$???

-Dave

This may be related to your issue:

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showpost.php?p=3722060&postcount=15

hi this may help try replacing the canister purge valve that helped me just the valve not the canister it is up by your evap valve the green cap it is right next to it two hoses are pluged into it and it has electrical plug it is easy to notice it good luck all you people check your gas cap littel deatils that can give you problem if anybody needs to replace the fuel filter it is under the back seat the seat has two pins just pull the seat up the bottom part pull it hard you won't hurt it and there it is big black cap kind of glued just pull it of and there is about 10 bolts take em out and replace your fuel filter