Help!!!! 02 Intrique 3.5
Hendrix31
08-11-2005, 01:08 AM
Vehicle Service Soon, anti-lock and Trac off lights at startup
componded by intermittend slippage where the low trac light comes on as if there is no traction, but there is.
Replaced Spindle last year with junkyard part.
I'm thinking it is the wheel speed sensor on that part.
Someone please confirm or deny this, I don't have a lot of $$$$ and I hope I haven't hurt the Tranny!!!!
help please!!!!!
componded by intermittend slippage where the low trac light comes on as if there is no traction, but there is.
Replaced Spindle last year with junkyard part.
I'm thinking it is the wheel speed sensor on that part.
Someone please confirm or deny this, I don't have a lot of $$$$ and I hope I haven't hurt the Tranny!!!!
help please!!!!!
sharo23
08-11-2005, 06:50 PM
Vehicle Service Soon, anti-lock and Trac off lights at startup
componded by intermittend slippage where the low trac light comes on as if there is no traction, but there is.
Replaced Spindle last year with junkyard part.
I'm thinking it is the wheel speed sensor on that part.
Someone please confirm or deny this, I don't have a lot of $$$$ and I hope I haven't hurt the Tranny!!!!
help please!!!!!
get it scanned and post result
componded by intermittend slippage where the low trac light comes on as if there is no traction, but there is.
Replaced Spindle last year with junkyard part.
I'm thinking it is the wheel speed sensor on that part.
Someone please confirm or deny this, I don't have a lot of $$$$ and I hope I haven't hurt the Tranny!!!!
help please!!!!!
get it scanned and post result
Hendrix31
08-12-2005, 12:13 AM
get it scanned and post result
How do I "get it scanned"?
If you mean the codes, I had a basic scan at autozone with no codes. The other scan requires a mechanic right?
How do I "get it scanned"?
If you mean the codes, I had a basic scan at autozone with no codes. The other scan requires a mechanic right?
GTP Dad
08-12-2005, 10:43 AM
You will need to take it to a mechanic with a higher level scanner that can scan ABS codes in order to see if it is a wheel sensor.
kimbo99
08-13-2005, 03:42 PM
I took a brake system class at a local junior college and the instructor said in his experience 90% of ABS problems can be traced to the wheel speed sensors, either the sensor itself or the exposed wires that lead to the sensor. Starting with the simple checks and progressing to the more difficult:
1) Look at the wire integrity leading to the wheel sensor for any damage such as worn insulation, etc.
1) Remove the sensor connector (two-pin) located at the inner side of wheel backplate. Measure sensor resistance. Should be about 1000 ohms.
When measuring sensor resistance, it is difficult to connect an ohmmeter to the two pins sticking out from the wheel sensor. The easiest way to connect is to get a mating female sensor connector at your local pick a part junkyard and then connect to the two sensor connector leads. I believe all “W” body GM cars use the same connector (Chevy Lumina & Monte Carlo, Olds Cutlass, Pontiac Grand Prix). I got one from a Lumina.
2) Change your DMM to AC voltage setting, measure voltage as you rotate wheel by hand. Voltage should increase as speed increases.
3) If your DMM has frequency measurement capability, rotate wheel as you did in step 2, the frequency should increase as speed increases.
4) If you have access to an oscilloscope, observe the AC waveform (sine-wave) as you rotate the wheel as in step 2
The waveform should be uniform and frequency and voltage should increase as wheel speed increases. If the waveform is not uniform, suspect a damaged reluctor tooth or damaged sensor magnet. Snap-On makes a great handheld oscilloscope that is easy to learn and use for this test. Unfortunately it cost about $1800. I imagine there are cheaper oscilloscopes available that can do an equal job, I have not looked into that.
And one more thing the instructor recommended was to get your entire brake system flushed every two years. Cheap insurance for those expensive ABS components.
1) Look at the wire integrity leading to the wheel sensor for any damage such as worn insulation, etc.
1) Remove the sensor connector (two-pin) located at the inner side of wheel backplate. Measure sensor resistance. Should be about 1000 ohms.
When measuring sensor resistance, it is difficult to connect an ohmmeter to the two pins sticking out from the wheel sensor. The easiest way to connect is to get a mating female sensor connector at your local pick a part junkyard and then connect to the two sensor connector leads. I believe all “W” body GM cars use the same connector (Chevy Lumina & Monte Carlo, Olds Cutlass, Pontiac Grand Prix). I got one from a Lumina.
2) Change your DMM to AC voltage setting, measure voltage as you rotate wheel by hand. Voltage should increase as speed increases.
3) If your DMM has frequency measurement capability, rotate wheel as you did in step 2, the frequency should increase as speed increases.
4) If you have access to an oscilloscope, observe the AC waveform (sine-wave) as you rotate the wheel as in step 2
The waveform should be uniform and frequency and voltage should increase as wheel speed increases. If the waveform is not uniform, suspect a damaged reluctor tooth or damaged sensor magnet. Snap-On makes a great handheld oscilloscope that is easy to learn and use for this test. Unfortunately it cost about $1800. I imagine there are cheaper oscilloscopes available that can do an equal job, I have not looked into that.
And one more thing the instructor recommended was to get your entire brake system flushed every two years. Cheap insurance for those expensive ABS components.
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