my 7 is fucked..

alright so i got tags today,drove it around for a bit, was drivin and it starts gettin hot, yes the buzzer/add coolantlight was on but i was tryin to ignore it, caz ive had prolems with it, but it go almost to the H so i hurried up n shut it off, called my buddy jake, (tubjub) n he came out the fuckin thing overheated on me 4 times within about 30 miles...
ANY SUGGESTIONS...

i put new plugs in,changed the oil and got a new thermostat for it but havent done the thermo yet,had to order the gasket... will be done tomorow,sunday.

i have no coolant in it,just water,my buddy said coolant doesnt matter until winter, my father says otherwise....which route do i go?
ANY SUGGESTIONS...

it ran fine the other day when me and jake put his tags on it and went to get some gas and drove around bout 30 miles or so..."
ANY SUGGESTIONS...

can someone fuckin help me with this damn thing...i want it to run perfectly fine, but damn its one thing after another....
HELP!!!!!!

i took pics of it today,ill post em when i get them developed... thanks for the help.

Got enough oil in it? I hear they use a lot.

who the hell told you to only run water?

you should definitely run coolant always as the water evaporates when it goes thru the system.

should be a 50/50 mix of water/coolant depending on the season.

dont do it again unless you want to rebuild you engine.

who the hell told you to only run water?

you should definitely run coolant always as the water evaporates when it goes thru the system.

should be a 50/50 mix of water/coolant depending on the season.

dont do it again unless you want to rebuild you engine.

Coolant system is under pressure, that means that the water can not evaporate. LOL

Your engine is probably buggered. If you are overheating like that and have no coolant chances are you have a blown coolant o-ring.

idk man ive had water evaporate (not in my car but a friends)

Over a long time, yes ti will evaporate (because it is hot and will travel to the overflow from time to time and boil off). But unlees you have a leak in the system of generate to much pressure then you SHOULD not evaporate the water :P

I have to run straight water with water wetter in it for the race cars. No coolant allowed on the track.

i learn something new daily. thanks

we put the rad cleaner in it flushed it all out, and went to a junk yard today, and i stole a basically brand new coolant level sensor, and put it in, flushed the rad again, filled with just water for another flush drove around for a few min (juss to get it heated up) letting it flow through the engine and what not, flushed it and filled it, ran it no buzzer or nuthin.....YET im sure it will come back, its just my luck not to have a good car.....

Well hopefully it was just the sensor grounding out on something settig it off all the time. But for the overheating, i would test the cooling system with a pressure tester. As well as the caps. Because overheating a rotary = death :(

do you still have your focus?

i would keep that as dd and GO ALL OUT on the fc.

its what i wanna do

well i plan to do alot of stuff to this fc. u guys have been a huge insiration for me TO go all out on this thing,i figured maybe boost controller,turbo gauge,greddy turbo kit,intake,exhaust maybe a few others... bout the exhaust, im juss gonna go to EJM motorsports and buy some euro mufflers, should i keep it dual or go single? and would it matter what size i went with? i was think either 2 1/2 or 3 inch pipe.

go 3" single exahust.

O and for the coolant thing. I forgot to mention, there is a small hose under the UIM that has a tendancy to get old and brittle due to heat. I replaced one today on a car that had cronti coolant problems. And now there are no more coolant problems. This hose is a real PITA to get at and all but its cheaper and easier than a new motor.

whats the UIM? and is it gonna sound better with single exhaust?

UIM=Upper Intake Manifold

The sound of the exhaust all depends on the pre-muffler, if you have it straight though then it will sound like crap (race car VERY loud ish).
With a single there is less restriction that with a dual due to the deviation of the exhaust to go through both pipes.

sooo... under the UIM there's a hose that more than likely needs to be replaced ? we've already got it half torn apart so would the best solution be to go ahead and take the UIM off and check it out ? what about the heater core ?? cuz the heater doesn't work eiether.

check the pulsation damper

I can't help but comment on you IGNORING the buzzer. It's there for a reason. There is a fat chance that it's actually busted. If it is, fix it! Obviously you overheated because lack of proper cooling. Next time try not to half-ass it.

welp the MBTN i didnt half-ass anything and didnt try to half-ass anything, everything i do i try. and i try hard, im not a pro and im not a mechanic, i juss know little things bout what im doing, and i post here to find out how to do things, and get solutions. hints the obvious fact that ive posted about my car about 60 times now

Inspect the lines entering and exiting the heater core, as well as the line under the UIM.
Replace coolant level sensor with Mazda OEM stuff.