Recently replaced all the belts including timing belt. But, I cannot figure out how to correctly tension the belt for the alternator/water pump (this is the 1.3L engine). I simply pushed the alternator back as far as possible and tightened the upper and lower bolts to the correct torque. The problem is that the belt is fine for a while and then starts squealing in the morning briefly. When I initially installed it, it was fine for about a day and then squealed loudly. I had to retension as it seemed to have become looser. Since then I've to retension it twice once after about 3 days and now again after about 1 week.

Is there an adjustment bolt used to set the tension that I've missed. Don't see any mention of it in the instructions.

Let me know if you get an answer to this one. I have the same symtoms on a 93 one litre engine. I think this is an engineering problem.
Only usually happens at start up. I am not bothered with it anymore.
YOu can try sanding down the 'v' portions of the belt for the circumference so the belt does not bottom out in the bottom of the pully 'v's. Franky, I think the engineers should have made the belt wider to avoid slippage. Again, let me know if you get a good answer.
Doug at hodunwun@comcast.net

Yes, if I get an answer to this one I'll let you know. The old belt never made any noises. Having said that many cars have tension adjustment mechanisms. On this I just cannot see anything. Based on the "thumb pressure/deflection" test suggested by the factory service manual I cannot see you one can accurately set tension by just "pushing" the alternator. Maybe the belt is still stretching and maybe one day it may stop. Or like I said maybe I missed something obvious. The belt feels too slack to me but I cannot figure out how to tighten it anymore than what it is.

I have had the same problem with the cheaper belts. Try adjusting it a bit tighter. Use a Dayco or Gates belt. The cheap one I had was a Kelly Sprinfield belt and it stretched like crazy.

All the replacement belts were Dayco.

The Daycos should be good. I run my tension to where you can twist the belt 90 deg between the water pump and crank (it should feel real tight at 90 deg and have a bounce when flat). This seems to be the best for me and I have not lost a water pump or alternator bearing yet.

How do you tension the belt. Do you just push the alternator or is there an adjustment bolt or screw to set tension. I cannot see anything.

Loosen the 3 bolts holding the alternator (1 top, 2 bottom) then useing a small prybar or large screwdriver, pry on the case of the alternator between it and the water pump untill you get the proper tension. Hold tension and tighten the top bolt then check tension as I described. If it checks good tighten the 2 lower bolts.

OK - thanks. I will try that technique.

OK so the technique suggested worked great. My extra long prybar between the alternator and WP was able to give me the correct tension. I think the tension was way too low before leading to this problem. Not sure why I did not think of trying this myself.

Thanks for the tip.

Glad to help.

I have this same exact problem.'96 Metro with a 4cyl.
I have an oil leak on the front crankshaft oil seal.
If this is the case on your vehicle, you will always have the sqealing problem when the engine fires up for the first two minutes or so until the oil works its way off the pulleys.
New belts work fine for a couple of weeks, but the slippage will start up again if there is oil present.
I want to change the seal, but the crankshaft pulley bolt they use is on so tight that I cannot get it off.
I have worked on all kinds of vehicles in my life, but this bolt is the most difficult to get off.
I am literally bending 1/2" breaker bars using an impact 17MM socket.
I am going to try a 3/4" breaker bar and socket.
I hope I don't damage this thing.
I love this car!
And yes, I am trying to turn the bolt counter clockwise to remove.
They must glue the bolt at the factory!

Some have Loc-tite on the threads. I have used a propane torch to get the bolt head hot, then zap it off with an impact or use the old breaker bar and starter trick. You will need to replace the crank seal after the heat but you already know that.

Thanks for the help crazyinkc!

Is there any particular impact tool that works well.
I have an air compressor.
Or could I use the impact tool that you hit with a small sledge?

I use a 1/2" Husky and give it hell. I usually do not have a problem but I did run into a Tracker that put up a good fight and I used my dads 3/4" impact that was rated @ 500ft/lbs. It gave up quick ;).

Yep - I had quite a stuggle with that also. I don't know about the differences between the engine I have and what you guys have - mine is a 00 4 cyl. The tight bolt is by design btw - the factory manual specifies the torque at about 100 ft - lbs. Anyway coupled to this I found that the clearance available is so small it is almost impossible to get a good sized breaker bar in there. There is also no clear line of sight to the bolt from a distance (blocked by the body). Only option was a U-jointed adapter which very quickly bent :iceslolan

Thought about using my torch but was concerned about melting something behind. I have a 240 ft - lb electric impact as well as a 550 ft -lb air impact - both were useless in this case.

Eventaually got the job done by getting a 1-1/2 or 2 ft T-bar from sears (just about got it in) and brute force. Even thought about lowering the engine to gain access but that would have been a whole lot more work - did it once to get the tranny out and did not like the idea of doing that again.

I lower the engine by pulling the 2 bolts out of the front mount. It drops the engine enough to get to the crank bolt. I have a 95 and 96 1.3L's right now but I have yet to work on the 98-up cars.

Hmmm..wish I'd tried that now without struggling with the thing. I thought I would also have to remove the center mount bolts which of course needs the exhaust to be removed first which is extra work. In the case of the tranny I had to remove the left and center mounts but so many other things had to come out anyway getting the exhaust out ws just one more thing in the long list :iceslolan

have had to take mine off twice now. found that using a large 32 wrench with a craftsman ratchet worked better than using a standard breaker bar set up. bent a great neck round ratchet before trying the craftsman. Too timid to try the starter trick.

I would like to ask hot_sd how he stopped the crankshaft from turning while putting so much torque on the pulley bolt?
I don't want to bend something while I take it off.
I am planning on using a piece of angle iron, and bolt it to the torque converter bolts.
Will this definetely stop the sqealing belts once I replace the oil seal?
These metro's seem to have a defect.
Most engines will not have slipping belts with a crank oil seal leak.
Does it pay to get a good quality oil seal that will last?
Some seals you buy now are made in korea!
The whole lower front of my '96 1.3L 4cyl engine is wet with oil.
Most likely its the seal because it is wet around this area, but then I think, could it be the oil pan gasket also?
Its a lot of work just to stop these belts from making so much noise.(really loud in the morning)
Maybe I should replace the camshaft seal, the timing belt and tensioner bearing as well and then I won't have to touch this area again for a while.
We just got hit by hurricane Katrina in Fla. and has put a slight hold on things for now.
At least I have power back on after 26 hours.
Thanks for the help guys.

When under the car you look at the side of the trans facing the engine, you will notice an inspection plate that has a notch in it. You use a LARGE screwdriver to wedge the teeth of the gear. The plate is only held on by the 2 10mm bolts on the sides, so I remove it rather than trying to wedge in that little slot. Hope this helps.

yes as moonlightserenader mentioned the way to locking the crankshaft is by locking the flywheel (that is the "gear wheel" mentioned). You need to take out the flywheel inspection cover and then insert a screwdriver in between the teeth of the flywheel at a point that the other end of the screwdriver is prevented from moving by the engine. You have to place the screwdriver at the right or left hand end depending on the direction of rotation. Some engines do actually have a special flywheel locking tool which is easier to use than a screwdriver but I don't think they make one for the metro.

after an hour of screwing around trying to got the bottom pully bolt off ,so i could replace the crank seal i finally had to put a socket and breaker bar against the frame of the car and turn the starter,bam!bolt comes right out! be careful!

Sorry - forgot to add - the procedure is slightly different depending on whether you have a manual or auto trans. What I described is the correct procedure if you have an automatic. If you have a manual I believe the procedure mentioned by moonlightserenader is the one. There is no access hole for the engines with an automatic whereas I believe the manual ones have.

Actually it's both. my 94 is an automatic... :)

That's interesting. I have a 2000 and there is no access hole - you have to remove the flywheel cover. At least nothing that would allow access to the flywheel. The inspection cover bolts on to the transmision so any acess hole would have to be part of the flywheel/torque converter housing on the tranny - not part of the engine. The factory service manual outlines the 2 different procedures depending on whether it is auto or manual. Maybe the design of the MX17 changed between 94 and 2000?