95 Buick PA engine will not crank

This problem started about a week after a new key was made from the dealership. All lights on the dash come on, all electrical works but starter will not turn. The dealership will not replace the key. I read in a similar thread that the problem most likly is with the two small white wires running from the firewall up in the steering column to the key switch and I could cut these wires and install a resistor between these two wires. I took the key to Radio shack and had the key tested. He said it tested 11.8 ohms. The closest resistor he had was 10 ohms. I spliced this 10 ohm resistor in, but car still would not crank. Anyone know how critical it is to match the exact ohm? Don't know what else to do.

It needs to be within .2 ohms or less. I assume you have a 12K resistor in your key. Get a 2K resistor and twist and solder it to the 10K and try that. You could have a broken wire in the ignition switch. You have to have a complete circuit, for current to travel.

It needs to be within .2 ohms or less. I assume you have a 12K resistor in your key. Get a 2K resistor and twist and solder it to the 10K and try that. You could have a broken wire in the ignition switch. You have to have a complete circuit, for current to travel.
The resistor package actually says 10k ohms, 1/2 watt, they also had 10k resistor 1/4 watt. Does that make a difference? I bought digital ohm meter and tested the key myself. it reads 11.75 on the 20k range, the resistor i bought reads 9.8 in the same range, so it seems that I am approx 2 ohms off, so if I add a 2k resistor as you suggested I should be ok. So I should solder the 10k and 2k resistors together and put this between the two white wires coming from the connector under the dash. (I have already cut the two white wires that went to the key switch). Should this connector be soldered or can I get away with twisting and tape?

OK, I will copy the post again, giving detailed instructions. It looks like you have a standard pellet code #5 which should be 1130 ohms. See if you can find a 1.25 or 1.50K resistor to add to your 10K and yes, they have to be soldered, otherwise you will have more resistance.
Basically, all you are doing is adding resistance to thel circuit in your wires and a 1/2 watt should work fine.
Read the instructions below very carefully. Wire colors vary from car to car, however only two wires are used for this purpose. I had a remote start Viper alarm system installed in my Z28 10 years ago, when this was a fairly new thing for installers. I went to about ten alarm installers and only one could do it at that time. I know he had trouble matching the resistance or getting it close enough because it took him all day to do everything. Once he got it right, it worked and continues to work today.


VATS Malfunction Diagnosis and Bypass

One of the more common problems with the VATS security is caused by a simple bad connection in the ignition cylinder. The problems start when the wires leading from the contacts in the cylinder to the VATS module develop an intermittent contact or a complete break. This can cause sudden failure to crank either intermittently or permanently. Due to the nature of the system, manual transmission cars can't even be push started.

VATS Malfunction Diagnosis and Bypass
Diagnosis:
The very first thing to do is to watch the Security light under your gauges. If the system is working properly it will light up for a few seconds and go out. If it remains lit go through the following steps to find the problem. The first step is to check the resistance of the chip in the key with a multimeter. Write this value down you'll need it later. Next, remove the panel under the dash and look for a pair of yellow or orange wires coming from the steering column and leading to a connector a short distance away. Unplug the connector and with the key in the ignition, measure the resistance at the wires leading from the steering column. The reading should match that of the chip in your key. While the reading might match while the key is in the off position, it will probably change when the key is turned forward. If this happens, the problem is in the ignition cylinder or the wires leading to it. At this point there are two options: Buy a new ignition cylinder and have a new key made for about a hundred dollars or bypass the system for less than a dollar.
Bypass:
To bypass the system you'll need to buy a resistor with a value matching that of your keys chip at any local electronics store. The easiest way to install this resistor is to cut the wires leading into the column about a foot from the connector. Take this section of wire, strip the ends and solder the resistor in place. Take this section of wire and resistor and simply plug back into the connector under the dash. The VATS module is now fooled into thinking that there is always the correct key in the ignition. Although this does render the security benefits of the VATS system useless, if increased security is desired, the resistor can simply be unplugged, leaving the car disabled until it is reinstalled.
Pellet Code Resistance
1. 402
2. 523
3. 681
4. 887
5. 1130
6. 1470
7. 1870
8. 2370
9. 3010
10. 3740
11. 4750
12. 6040
13. 7500
14. There is also a code 14 & 15. Extrapolation from the above chart will reveal those.

OK, I will copy the post again, giving detailed instructions. It looks like you have a standard pellet code #5 which should be 1130 ohms. See if you can find a 1.25 or 1.50K resistor to add to your 10K and yes, they have to be soldered, otherwise you will have more resistance.
Basically, all you are doing is adding resistance to thel circuit in your wires and a 1/2 watt should work fine.
Read the instructions below very carefully. Wire colors vary from car to car, however only two wires are used for this purpose. I had a remote start Viper alarm system installed in my Z28 10 years ago, when this was a fairly new thing for installers. I went to about ten alarm installers and only one could do it at that time. I know he had trouble matching the resistance or getting it close enough because it took him all day to do everything. Once he got it right, it worked and continues to work today.


VATS Malfunction Diagnosis and Bypass

One of the more common problems with the VATS security is caused by a simple bad connection in the ignition cylinder. The problems start when the wires leading from the contacts in the cylinder to the VATS module develop an intermittent contact or a complete break. This can cause sudden failure to crank either intermittently or permanently. Due to the nature of the system, manual transmission cars can't even be push started.

VATS Malfunction Diagnosis and Bypass
Diagnosis:
The very first thing to do is to watch the Security light under your gauges. If the system is working properly it will light up for a few seconds and go out. If it remains lit go through the following steps to find the problem. The first step is to check the resistance of the chip in the key with a multimeter. Write this value down you'll need it later. Next, remove the panel under the dash and look for a pair of yellow or orange wires coming from the steering column and leading to a connector a short distance away. Unplug the connector and with the key in the ignition, measure the resistance at the wires leading from the steering column. The reading should match that of the chip in your key. While the reading might match while the key is in the off position, it will probably change when the key is turned forward. If this happens, the problem is in the ignition cylinder or the wires leading to it. At this point there are two options: Buy a new ignition cylinder and have a new key made for about a hundred dollars or bypass the system for less than a dollar.
Bypass:
To bypass the system you'll need to buy a resistor with a value matching that of your keys chip at any local electronics store. The easiest way to install this resistor is to cut the wires leading into the column about a foot from the connector. Take this section of wire, strip the ends and solder the resistor in place. Take this section of wire and resistor and simply plug back into the connector under the dash. The VATS module is now fooled into thinking that there is always the correct key in the ignition. Although this does render the security benefits of the VATS system useless, if increased security is desired, the resistor can simply be unplugged, leaving the car disabled until it is reinstalled.
Pellet Code Resistance
1. 402
2. 523
3. 681
4. 887
5. 1130
6. 1470
7. 1870
8. 2370
9. 3010
10. 3740
11. 4750
12. 6040
13. 7500
14. There is also a code 14 & 15. Extrapolation from the above chart will reveal those.

Thanks for the assist. I ran into a problem finding a 1.5k resistor (I kinda live in the boondocks) but I did locate one and soldered the 1.5 in line with the 10 k I had. The car started right up. Anyone else with this problem might be advised to be judicious when taking off the various covers and panels to acess the wires from the firewall connector up to the ignition switch. I think I removed too many panels on mine. I was looking for two small wires, but the two wires were in an orange tubing and looked like another orange wire. Anyway it did work. Thanks

I have a 1996 Buick regal. My engine is not turning and is all working besides the engine. I got a new key and it didnt make a differance. My engine is a 3800 series and the security light just flashs when I go to start my car. And at the same time it maks a twitching sound from a electronic thing on the throttle body. I went and spliced my yellow wires. One yellow wire is slightly fatter then the other and the other has a white line on it. This is in the second ribbon of wires. Theres a smaller ribbon of wires with one yellow. I didnt think that was it. I tried to rig my key in for kicks,no luck. I was just seeing till tomorrow when I got a volt meter/tester. I'm on the right track currently right?

thanks, the new guy Greg

I have repaired several vechicles with this same propblem. In some vechicles. the hardest part is to locate the correct wires. In most cases the wires are very thin and is enclosed in a plastic sleeve. At first glance it looks like a single wire. Once the wire are located it is just a matter of matching the correct resistance, and yes you should solder the wires.

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