Stalling issue- Driving me crazy

OK, I have searched the forum, I am new as of today, and I am still at a loss. I have a '92 S10 Blazer 4 x 4, 4.3 vin z. It starts fine in the morning. It loses idle immediately. It will stall if my foot is not on the accelerator when I come to a stop. Moving no problem, even if I do not have my foot on the gas. After it stalls, it will not restart. When trying to restart, I do not see any gas from jets. To restart I must hit it with starter fluid (yes I know a bad thing). It will start immediately and keep running as long as I have foot barely on accelerator. After it starts, jets look like they work perfectly.

When it first started, we thought it was a fuel issue. I have replaced fuel filter and fuel pump to no avail. I* looked at the egr valve, but not sure what to do with it. It seemed like it was working OK. This has gone on for two weeks now. The last mechanic said it would cost about $500 to figure a problem like this out and that I can not do right now. Please help or put me on the right path. I am not much of a mechanic, but some of the guys at work are helpful, but they are stumped. Thanks in advance.

I would check your IAC or TPS.

Do you have the VORTEC name plate on the top of your engine?

Do you have the VORTEC name plate on the top of your engine?

No Vortec name plate, just checked

so you have the round air filter assembly?

so you have the round air filter assembly?

Yes, that is right.

Check your battery voltage when the engine is running.

Check fuel pressure.

Check your battery voltage when the engine is running.

Check fuel pressure.

This morning rechecking everything again we noticed that a wire to the ECT was loose. We reconnected it and now the service engine soon light stays on. The code reader which had previously said everything was OK, now reads Code 15. Which is that sensor. I'm going to get a new one, I guess and see if that fixes the problem. Does that make any sense?

15 is the engine coolant temperature sensor circuit high (low temperature indicated)

Is the temperature low on the gauge?

15 is the engine coolant temperature sensor circuit high (low temperature indicated)

Is the temperature low on the gauge?

Gauge reads normal. But it makes me think that since it starts fine in the morning when cool and as temp heats up it stalls that it is somehow related. I thought the sensor affected voltage to fuel sensor.

You should also clean the PCM grounds.

That code sets if there is a low temperature detected for 30 seconds or if there is a circuit fault.

Gauge reads normal. But it makes me think that since it starts fine in the morning when cool and as temp heats up it stalls that it is somehow related. I thought the sensor affected voltage to fuel sensor.

It does replace you temp sensor and you should be good to go.

You should also clean the PCM grounds.

That code sets if there is a low temperature detected for 30 seconds or if there is a circuit fault.
What are PCM grounds?

Also, just replaced ECT sensor. Engine light no longer an issue. Codes read normal now. Engine still stalls and wont restart without starter fluid.

What are PCM grounds?

Also, just replaced ECT sensor. Engine light no longer an issue. Codes read normal now. Engine still stalls and wont restart without starter fluid.

So now I've replaced the ECT and it still stalls. So I replaced the IAC and it still stalls. It starts cold, but when it warms up, it stalls and no gas from jets. Until it stall, it runs fine. No codes. Runs fine if I keep my foot barely on the accelorator. If not, it stalls. I am lost. Help????

Does the fuel pump hum when you try to restart it?

Ever replaced the fuel filter?

Does the fuel pump hum when you try to restart it?

Ever replaced the fuel filter?

First thing we did was replace filter & pump. I've driven it by necessity some 300 miles since replacing pump.

Replaced:
Fuel Filter
Fuel Pump
ECT Sensor
IAC
Have not replaced TPS, but did about 1.5 years ago. Symptoms much different. Does EGR give this type of symptom? Can I test it somehow? I'm tired of throwing $$ at parts. Can't afford much more. I'm afraid of what starter fluid is doing to engine, even with just two quick shots.

EGR could do it.

Remove it, clean it and reinstall it with a new EGR gasket.

EGR could do it.

Remove it, clean it and reinstall it with a new EGR gasket.

How do I clean EGR? I saw that I cant use solvent. Is there something special?

How do I clean EGR? I saw that I cant use solvent. Is there something special?

Carb cleaner works good to clean your EGR. However i still think you need to check your battery. Low battery voltage can cause these kind or troubles.

Carb cleaner works good to clean your EGR. However i still think you need to check your battery. Low battery voltage can cause these kind or troubles.

Checked battery, reads 13.8 v

Carb cleaner works good to clean your EGR. However i still think you need to check your battery. Low battery voltage can cause these kind or troubles.

Also use a new EGR gasket when you reinstall it.

Also use a new EGR gasket when you reinstall it.

Working on it now. I mentioned it I think before, but not sure of significance. It starts in morning, first thing. It wont stall untill it warms up to about 180. Is this significant?

alright buddy i am having the exact same problem as you, i finally gave up and had to drop it off to a serious garage, when mine warms up maybe after being driven 3-5 miles, you give it gas and u really cant even hear the engine then it may just flash check guages and the blazer will shit itself off, i have replaced fuel filter, pump, sending unit tank, done a tune up, cleaned egr,cleaned inside the plenum, replaced tps and o2 sensors and none of this worked, making me have to take it to the garage, they told me that it was my control module, which makes perfect sense, figuring that after it warms if the coil is not seeing a spark it will not allow it to run properly or even at all, same problem happened it my boat. So i told them to go ahead and replace it, the part is 94 dollars and they are only charging me 12 dollars for labor figuring it is a very quick job. I will tell you how this works out tommorow, but i am pretty positive after replacing all of this that this has to be the problem, do your symtoms sound the same as mine?

alright buddy i am having the exact same problem as you, i finally gave up and had to drop it off to a serious garage, when mine warms up maybe after being driven 3-5 miles, you give it gas and u really cant even hear the engine then it may just flash check guages and the blazer will shit itself off, i have replaced fuel filter, pump, sending unit tank, done a tune up, cleaned egr,cleaned inside the plenum, replaced tps and o2 sensors and none of this worked, making me have to take it to the garage, they told me that it was my control module, which makes perfect sense, figuring that after it warms if the coil is not seeing a spark it will not allow it to run properly or even at all, same problem happened it my boat. So i told them to go ahead and replace it, the part is 94 dollars and they are only charging me 12 dollars for labor figuring it is a very quick job. I will tell you how this works out tommorow, but i am pretty positive after replacing all of this that this has to be the problem, do your symtoms sound the same as mine?

Symtoms are almost the same, except that mine runs great until I come to a stop. If I leave my foot on the gas it will stay going. It accelorates just fine. I'll take a look at it and let you know.

Working on it now. I mentioned it I think before, but not sure of significance. It starts in morning, first thing. It wont stall untill it warms up to about 180. Is this significant?

Sounds like it doesn't like going to closed loop.

Check your ECM grounds.

Checked battery, reads 13.8 v
is that with the truck running? Also have someone check the voltage as you are starting the truck if voltage drops below 11 then you have a problem.

the battery wont even cause signifigant problems if a lil undercharged at 11.6 or w/e that should be fine

is that with the truck running? Also have someone check the voltage as you are starting the truck if voltage drops below 11 then you have a problem.
13.8 with the truck running.

Just finished cleaning EGR. Replaced gasket as well. Same result. Can it be a heat issue? Gage says it is about 220, but campartment feels hotter. Could this be related? Radiator not bubling over, but feels hotter than a lot of cars. Seems like it has always been this way, but now I'm grasping at straws.

the battery wont even cause signifigant problems if a lil undercharged at 11.6 or w/e that should be fine

If the alternator is not changing it you bet your ass it will cause problems.

13.8 with the truck running.

Just finished cleaning EGR. Replaced gasket as well. Same result. Can it be a heat issue? Gage says it is about 220, but campartment feels hotter. Could this be related? Radiator not bubling over, but feels hotter than a lot of cars. Seems like it has always been this way, but now I'm grasping at straws.

Something is wrong then, the alternator and battery should be at 14.4+ when running.

Something is wrong then, the alternator and battery should be at 14.4+ when running.

Will that cause the stall? Or is it a symptom of something else?

Alternator failing?

Could for sure.

Alternator failing?

Could for sure.

I'll check it tomorrow. I need to replace the belt anyway.

I'll check it tomorrow. I need to replace the belt anyway.

Alternator checks out OK

So now what?

Alternator checks out OK

So now what?

The now what looks like the fuel pressure regulator. A different guy at the parts store said that would be his guess. It said it could be a slight tear or something in the diaphram. He said at idle, the diaphram holds the pressure on the fuel line preventing it from going back in the line. ANyway, that's my next move.

I am having the same exact problem. Truck wont start for 24 hours at least and eventually stalls again. I changed fuel pump and filter still no good. Any ideas?

The now what looks like the fuel pressure regulator. A different guy at the parts store said that would be his guess. It said it could be a slight tear or something in the diaphram. He said at idle, the diaphram holds the pressure on the fuel line preventing it from going back in the line. ANyway, that's my next move.

No idea. I'm still using starter fluid to restart blazer. Next week I'm going to have to take it in. Nothing I've done has worked.

Mine (93 S-10, 4.3 Vortec CPI) had a stalling problem months ago that turned out to be the ignition module, which sits inside the distributor. When it got warm it failed to fire properly. What fooled me was it would "hit" with starting fluid, but only because it requires very little spark to fire fluid. Pull the module and take it to Advance or NAPA and they will test it. On a lot of GMs that it the problem along with crank sensors. Just a suggestion....

good suggestion

Mine (93 S-10, 4.3 Vortec CPI) had a stalling problem months ago that turned out to be the ignition module, which sits inside the distributor. When it got warm it failed to fire properly. What fooled me was it would "hit" with starting fluid, but only because it requires very little spark to fire fluid. Pull the module and take it to Advance or NAPA and they will test it. On a lot of GMs that it the problem along with crank sensors. Just a suggestion....

I'll give that a shot- nothing else has worked. What makes i weird is that it does start first thing in the morning. And it keeps going as lond as I raise the idle by giving it a bit of gas.

Mine did the same thing, but would fail to restart when turned off until it sat for 1-4 hours. If it is this, it will only get worse.
Maybe I missed it, but, did you clean the EGR?

I'll give that a shot- nothing else has worked. What makes i weird is that it does start first thing in the morning. And it keeps going as lond as I raise the idle by giving it a bit of gas.

Cleaned egr. Only thing I can think of that I didn't do was look at module and didn't because it didn't make sense. I'll do it this weekend.