Fuel Line Leaking


bryanf13
07-29-2005, 02:43 PM
Hoping someone can offer some advice.
I have a fuel leak in the nylon return line just upstream of the quick connect that joins the line with the fuel rail. Took it to the dealer with the fuel rail recall but was told that its not covered. Quoted me $700 to replace all the lines. What a guy.
So as far as I can see the only piece that needs to be replaced is the black tube running from the rail to the steel tube at the firewall. The part number on the tube is GM6264. Can't find anything on the web.

Has anyone suffered the same misery or can someone point me to a simple fix.

I've had the car for over 2 years and until April everything was fine. Since then I have replaced the alternator (twice due to a faulty rebuilt unit) and the starter (god bless the guy who decided to put that under the manifold). In both cases I used the instructions from the forum and found them perfect. Note, these were the first car repairs I ever carried out so the directions must have been good.

Any help would be greatly appreciated. If there is no easy way out then I may have to put my baby up for sale. There are at least 2 new parts in her.

Bryan - 96 Aurora - 108,000

tjm
07-29-2005, 06:12 PM
try looking at www.gmpartsdirect.com (http://www.gmpartsdirect.com)

thumpin455
07-30-2005, 11:24 AM
Only the 95 model is covered under the recall for complete replacement of all three fuel lines all the way back to the fuel filter & tank in addition to the new stainless fuel rail at the injectors. They call the new fuel lines for the 95 a "Pipe Kit" and is part number 10384811. The new metal lines from the tank look almost identical to the old only now they have barbed ends for the quick disconnect fittings where they loop over the brake booster and join the plastic underhood lines. Of course the 3 underhood plastic lines (fuel supply, evap emmissions, and fuel return) are also included in the kit and have quick disconnects on both ends now where they attach to the new metal lines.

OK Bryan now that I've talked about everything that isn't covered on your 96, you can use rubber fuel line and hose clamps to repair yours. This is what was done on the return line of my 95 before the recall came out. Use a hose clamp to secure the existing quick disconnect fitting robbed off of your bad plastic line to the end of the new rubber fuel line. Since the metal line at the booster is smooth, push a good 2" of the rubber hose over the metal line and secure using 2 hose clamps. Make sure to use SAE 30R9 hose which is for fuel injection. It is less prone to dryout and crack over time than older 30R7 hose.

Like I say this fix was working fine on my 95 before the recall replaced everything.

bryanf13
08-01-2005, 11:59 AM
Thanks for the quick response.

Sounds like a perfect solution. I'll go get the hose today and make sure its SAE 30R9 as you suggest. Excuse my ignorance but whats the diameter of the hose. I looked up that spec number and I saw 5/16". Is that the right size.

Bryan

thumpin455
08-01-2005, 09:28 PM
Not sure what the diameter is for the return line. 5/16 sounds about right but it might even be 1/4. My car is not here to look at for the next few days (getting A/C fixed). I have a 95 and all 3 of my metal lines were replaced in the recall so my return line may actually be a different size now from your 96 ?? Before the recall I remember all 3 metal fuel lines were a slightly different size from each other. I think the 30R9 is the spec # for the hose and not the actual size. Of course you will want whatever size fits the metal return line where it loops over the brake booster. On the other end where it quick-connects to the return line coming from the fuel rail near the FPR you will want to leave about 1" of the old hard plastic line still attached to the quick disconnect fitting that you are going to cut off and reuse. This is because you may have to slip the new rubber hose over the outside diameter of the 1" long old hard plastic line still attached to the quick disconnect fitting. If so then use 2 hose clamps at this connection also. What ever you do MAKE SURE TO CHECK FOR LEAKS.

bryanf13
08-02-2005, 08:05 AM
Paul,
Thanks again.
I measured the steel tube and it is 5/16 so I got some tube and a bunch of clamps and its all systems go for the big repair today. I have some help from a friend who was a qualified mechanic in a previous life so we will check thoroughly for leaks before we fire it up (no pun intended).

I see you are having A/C problems. My A/C just packed in. The air blows but its not cold. I guess it might need to be recharged but I hope it's not the compressor. What's the story with yours.

Final question: is there any end to the repair sage with these cars once they get over the 100,000 mark....

For the first 2 years I had no maintenance. So far since April, Alternator, Starter, Fuel Line, A/C, power window switches and an oxygen sensor. I wish I didn't love driving this thing!

Bryan

bryanf13
08-04-2005, 01:12 PM
Paul,
Went out and bought the hose and clamps and fitted them today. Worked out perfectly.

Dealer quote to replace lines =$700

2 foot 5/16 fuel injection hose and 4 clamps = $6.56

Advice from Automotive forums = Priceless

Thanks again.

Bryan

mbarcher
05-12-2011, 11:29 AM
Got your fix right here!

Dorman makes a fuel line repair for nylon fuel lines.... I too had that GM6264 leaking right after the "quick release" connection to the fuel rail (though be damn if I could 'release' it)... But for just SEVEN DOLLARS I got the tubing repair from O'Reily's... I just ended up cutting the fuel line at the leak... You get the line in either 5/16 or 3/8 diameters. You heat it up in hot water, it expands, and you slide the two ends of your fuel line in. When it shrinks back it forms a HARD line similar to the original and you're DONE!

A lot cheaper than the $71 the dealer wanted for a new one!

Michael

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