alright so i've been having a few issues with boost/hesitation.. after i've been driving the car for a while, highway or not, (maybe like half hour) i start to get spells where if i let off the gas slowly or hold it at a low throttle position, it feels like the car has kicked into neutral and starts to slow down until i either let off the throttle and give it a stab, or floor it for a few seconds...

now i'm thinking it's the wastegate sticking, but i want to be 100% sure before i attempt to replace it or fix it if it's even possible... my dad kept muttering something about fuel problems, but i'm pretty sure that's not the issue, as i've changed the filter and gone through a tank already. i guess my question would be is if it's practical to attempt to replace it, or try to fix it... it'd be nice to have everything working 100% before i start the bolt on marathon, just to be sure you know. any suggestions?

Sounds like you need to upgrade your turbo.

that comes this winter

that comes this winter

well that needs to come sooner. it does sound like a wastegate sticking or maybe the turbine wheel is sticking. when you give it a little gas the exhaust spins the turbo fast enough for the exhaust to flow through atleast.

i guess we'll see what's really happening when i get around to picking up the boost guage... see if it's boosting consitantly and holding the right pressure when at full boost... just a matter of time i guess...

wow, d is that a new car, havent been around much, but "waste" gate seemed up my alley!!!!

wow, d is that a new car, havent been around much, but "waste" gate seemed up my alley!!!!

:lol: your always wasted...

ah, so yep, i've come to the conclusion that the bearings are damaged... runs fine for the first say 10 min.. can notice it lose a little power after the first 5.. then it continually gets worse and worse until the studdering/loss of power thing happens... now the reason i'm pretty damn sure of this is today when i got home i let it idle for like 30 seconds, tried to rev it.. revved fine to about 2500 then started to sort of sputter cough and shake there for a few seconds until i really gave it some stick, then it felt like it almost broke loose and revved fine between 3k-4k. now after letting the car idle for another 3 minutes, i revved it again and it did it perfectly... maybe my oil's getting too hot? the guage is absolutely useless, so it might be....

either way... Al you wouldn't happen to have any extra turbo's sitting around would you? :D

check the timing bfore you cchangge anything.

check the timing bfore you cchangge anything.

yeah those timing belts just start skipping over teeth after a nice 30 minutes of driving... :rolleyes:

timing belt and timing was done not too long ago...

anyway, i replaced the dist. cap, rotor, wires and plugs and that seems to have helped out quite a bit.. the old one's were in Damn rough condition (mostly the cap and rotor... connections were all rusted up like some moisture had got in there or something) altho, it still feels like it wants to do it... i can feel it trying to, but it's just pulling thru. anyway, the exhaust is starting to rattle like a sonofabitch, so i guess i'm just going to have to replace it... oh well:D

so i guess i'm just going to have to replace it... oh well:D

Automotive dictionary defines "replace" as follows:

re·place (re-plas)
tr.v. re·placed, re·plac·ing, re·plac·es

Possible meanings:

1. Upgrade

Automotive dictionary defines "replace" as follows:

re·place (re-plas)
tr.v. re·placed, re·plac·ing, re·plac·es

Possible meanings:

1. Upgrade

lol...oh shucks...a reason to make it faster...lol..."if it's broken, fix it better!"

Yo Delerious...I'm already hookin you up with a turbo timer...wanna buy my old turbo? I actually DO happen to have a turbo layin around...I just don't know if it's a direct bolt on in the 87-89s cuz it's out of an 86. I think you'd have to use a couple pieces from your current turbo, but it should work. Might wanna check into that...

I was gunna tell you...change the plugs and wires and everything...my first Z used to do that and it was an NA! So I know you probably don't have anything wrong with your turbo. But you did the plugs and wires before I could tell you...so...yea...

yeah man, i'm not 100% about the turbo from the 86, as in 88 they went to a garrett t25.. not sure what would be different about it, but who knows... i'll leave it as it is for the time being, focus on other stuff that.... 'needs' fixing :D btw i should have the stuff sent off today...

anyway, if it was going to do it again, today would have been the day... was a solid 33 degrees (celcius) out and i was out for quite a drive, finishing off with a nice long steep hill to get home... the engine temp bumped up over the centre, so the coolant probably needs a good flushing. maybe i'll have a weekend where i do all the fluid work that needs to be done.. radiator, brake, maybe clutch, tranny, diff... i'm sure the tranny and diff fluid is original. altho, i'm always a little scared of cracking bolts that haven't been unscrewed since it left the production line... going to take a while of heat, hammer and liquid wrench to get those tranny bolts off.

About your adventure to the post office today, sounds good, man. Let you know when I make my venture.

About "cracking 'virgin' bolts"...they can be fun...

my advice is 2 postions. wide open or brake. there is no middle ground

for bolts try and spray them with a penetrating lube (wd40) and tapping them lightly (on bolt head as if it were a nail and you where hammer it in no too hard though just enough) and spray it 2 or 3 times a day and tap on it before and after for a week and it should be alot easier
and as for your problem is it smooth on idle?
when you say it feels like nuetral is it a slipping pressure plate thats covered in clutch dust it happened to my camaro once where below 3000 rs it would just rev and not accel but above 3000 rs enough inertia blah blah
have you tried the electric parts dryer spray under the cap? theres a sensor in there thats an elec. eye that measues pullsesand it might get fogged up after all the droplets get heated and turn it into a vapor
also if its ruff at idle maybe a fuel inj. wire
perhaps a leaking intake tube or even a faulty pcv loose maf sensor would do ther same

as for the turbo pull off the intake tube leading to the turbo and try to wiggle the turbine a minute amount of movement is expected but alot is a shot turbo
what about a cloged cat. take a drive at night and see if the cat glows also check timing
and last but not least check and make sure none of the temp. sensors have a resistor in place as you said its in relative to temp so its worth a shot also check map sensor vaccum hose for cracks and blockage
good luck