Parts Cleaner

How do you guys clean your block, crankshaft, bolts etc when rebuilding an engine?

I was thinking about buying a rubber maid tote box you can find at any Wal-Mart and a few different style wire brushes, soft hair brissel brushes. Rubber gloves. Then there is the question of what chemicals to use.

Or, wouldn't the machine shop clean everything when I take it in?

It took me about 2 or 3 hours to tear the block down. And alot of duct tape with a sharpie marker :)

If the shop is doing the assembly, then they will do the final cleaning. If you are just getting the machine work done and doing the assembly yourself, then you are responsible for the final cleanup of the galleries and the all the surfaces.

What are you sending it out to have done?

Are you getting Moores to machine the block or hot tank it???

I just did a cylinder head on a friends b2200. His old head was cracked and we purchased a reman from Moores. When I assembled the rockers/shafts, I looked in the shaft tower cavities and couldn't believe the crud in there waiting to be flushed out into the engine/new cambearing surfaces.

Glad I caught it.

Your time to tear down the block is not bad considering the notation you did. Good goin!!

JD

I heard Moores is crap. I could be wrong. I thought they were the best, but maybe they are good at the heavy duty rigs. A reman head from Moores is $500, or maybe that was a brand new forged head. I will just find a junker and pull one off. Clean and Inspect for cracks.

I haven't decided on if I want a shop to assemble it, or just get machine work done. Depends on my cash flow. But either way I want to clean everything first, the pistons are crusty as hell. The block has a quarter inch of dried up mud on outside.

What is "Hot Tanking it"?

It will sit for abit, so I just want to clean every single bolt and part. Probably re-assemble it just for Beer Drinking time, then when I got cash, send it out.

What new parts should I start looking for in the mean time? Was thinking those crank shims that go around crankshaft lobes on connecting rod. Probably the bolts as well, piston seals.

We use Moores for most of our machining for where I work. They do acceptable quality work.

I was taking my personal machine work to Superior Automotive just noth off of 58th but they have closed.

I think I will go back to blackfoot motorcycle and find out where they take their engine machining to. Thats how I found out about Superior's machine shop.

Hot tanking is how I refere to degreasing of the block and other parts. They put the parts in a big basket and soak them in a hot caustic solution that disolves what ever is on the metal.

There are other methods of degreasing too. I just lump them all together as "hot tanking" for convenience.

So far as parts go, you need to clean them up abit and have a look at the crank surfaces and the cylinder walls.

If you take them to the machine shop they will tell you what NEEDS to be done.

If the crank is reasonably good, you could get them to polish the "throws" and the main bearing journal surfaces then use standard bearings.

If they are worn or scored, then you will need the crank ground and use the right undersize main and rod bearings. (thats those crank shims)

Make sure that the main bearing and rod bearing caps stay matched to the original positions. They should be numbered to match the two halves.

Same with the cylinders. Usually, with the age and mileage of a vehicle like this, you will need to bore the cylinders and use new pistons

With the head, I doubt that you will find a used one that is in any better shape than the one you took off. I just finished doing the head on a friends 87 b2200 and we wound up scooping a reman out of Quebec from Moores. Ran us $650cdn with gasket kit if I remember right.

Anyway, start reading a manual on engine overhaul to give you an idea what is involved.

If you have anymore questions, I'll be glad to help out where I can.

Just pm me as I havent been over here much. Mostly on the Jeep forums.

JD