Changing hoses on Olds Alero
schraubemutter
07-02-2005, 07:45 PM
I just changed the radiator and heater hoses on my '99 Olds Alero. I want to share some things I wish I had been able to find somewhere.
Before you begin, you may as well remove the battery and battery tray, the case for the air cleaner, the engine compartment fuse box and the support bracket for the air cleaner case and the fuse box. It is easier to say those things than to do them. The battery and tray are straightforward, but be sure to deactivate any radio security codes before removing the battery. So is the air cleaner case.
The fuse box slides out toward the front of the car, but a retainer must first be released. In front of the fuse box you will notice two ribs stamped into the black metal support bracket. The retainer is between them on the bottom side of the fuse box. You may be able to reach under the bracket from the side and push up on the retainer bump. An easier way would be to cut a wooden block to position on the lower part of the metal bracket. Insert a screwdriver between the fuse box and the bracket. Push downward on the screwdriver handle while using the wooden block as a fulcrum. Slide the fuse box forward while retracting the retainer.
Tie the fuse box out of the way as much as possible. I looped some steel wire around the terminal bolt on the corner of the fuse box. I made a hook to hang from a hole in the engine hood. Then I tied the wire to the hook.
You now have pretty good access to the upper radiator hose and the heater hose connections at the engine. Be careful. Most of the fittings are not metal, but a composite material. Slightly better access can be gained by disconnecting the electrical connector for the temperature sensor. Pull any wiring harnesses out of the way as necessary and as you are able.
The spring hose clamps ought be replaced with traditional worm drive hose clamps. The spring clamps can be difficult to remove, but some patient efforts with a couple different types of pliers will ususally be rewarded with success. All you need to do is to move the clamps off of the nipple fittings. Then slice the hose until you can see the length of the nipple fittings. A light twist or two removes what is left.
The lower heater hose connection on the back side of the engine is less daunting than it appears. Slide the fabric heat shield up away from the engine. Cut the old hose off entirely part of an inch away from the end of the nipple. There is a stainless steel spring inside the hose designed to keep it from collapsing. Do not try to cut through it. The piece still attached to the nipple actually has a quick release fitting sealed with an "O" ring. Squeeze the catches from both sides with your fingers until you can pull the quick release fitting back from the nipple.
Be careful to reconnect the new hoses in the same order. Put the fabric heat shield onto the lower hose going to the engine block. Attach this hose first. Next attach the hose on the left end of the engine. Next attach the right heater hose.
The left heater hose from the factory was formed, but, when I went to the parts store, their computer did not show a special hose. The "S" curve is too tight to avoid kinking. I bought 30 inches of 3/4 inch radiator hose and made a loop much like the cloverleaf on an interstate highway exit.
Before you begin, you may as well remove the battery and battery tray, the case for the air cleaner, the engine compartment fuse box and the support bracket for the air cleaner case and the fuse box. It is easier to say those things than to do them. The battery and tray are straightforward, but be sure to deactivate any radio security codes before removing the battery. So is the air cleaner case.
The fuse box slides out toward the front of the car, but a retainer must first be released. In front of the fuse box you will notice two ribs stamped into the black metal support bracket. The retainer is between them on the bottom side of the fuse box. You may be able to reach under the bracket from the side and push up on the retainer bump. An easier way would be to cut a wooden block to position on the lower part of the metal bracket. Insert a screwdriver between the fuse box and the bracket. Push downward on the screwdriver handle while using the wooden block as a fulcrum. Slide the fuse box forward while retracting the retainer.
Tie the fuse box out of the way as much as possible. I looped some steel wire around the terminal bolt on the corner of the fuse box. I made a hook to hang from a hole in the engine hood. Then I tied the wire to the hook.
You now have pretty good access to the upper radiator hose and the heater hose connections at the engine. Be careful. Most of the fittings are not metal, but a composite material. Slightly better access can be gained by disconnecting the electrical connector for the temperature sensor. Pull any wiring harnesses out of the way as necessary and as you are able.
The spring hose clamps ought be replaced with traditional worm drive hose clamps. The spring clamps can be difficult to remove, but some patient efforts with a couple different types of pliers will ususally be rewarded with success. All you need to do is to move the clamps off of the nipple fittings. Then slice the hose until you can see the length of the nipple fittings. A light twist or two removes what is left.
The lower heater hose connection on the back side of the engine is less daunting than it appears. Slide the fabric heat shield up away from the engine. Cut the old hose off entirely part of an inch away from the end of the nipple. There is a stainless steel spring inside the hose designed to keep it from collapsing. Do not try to cut through it. The piece still attached to the nipple actually has a quick release fitting sealed with an "O" ring. Squeeze the catches from both sides with your fingers until you can pull the quick release fitting back from the nipple.
Be careful to reconnect the new hoses in the same order. Put the fabric heat shield onto the lower hose going to the engine block. Attach this hose first. Next attach the hose on the left end of the engine. Next attach the right heater hose.
The left heater hose from the factory was formed, but, when I went to the parts store, their computer did not show a special hose. The "S" curve is too tight to avoid kinking. I bought 30 inches of 3/4 inch radiator hose and made a loop much like the cloverleaf on an interstate highway exit.
BNaylor
07-03-2005, 04:32 AM
I just changed the radiator and heater hoses on my '99 Olds Alero. I want to share some things I wish I had been able to find somewhere.
Before you begin, you may as well remove the battery and battery tray, the case for the air cleaner, the engine compartment fuse box and the support bracket for the air cleaner case and the fuse box. It is easier to say those things than to do them. The battery and tray are straightforward, but be sure to deactivate any radio security codes before removing the battery. So is the air cleaner case.
The fuse box slides out toward the front of the car, but a retainer must first be released. In front of the fuse box you will notice two ribs stamped into the black metal support bracket. The retainer is between them on the bottom side of the fuse box. You may be able to reach under the bracket from the side and push up on the retainer bump. An easier way would be to cut a wooden block to position on the lower part of the metal bracket. Insert a screwdriver between the fuse box and the bracket. Push downward on the screwdriver handle while using the wooden block as a fulcrum. Slide the fuse box forward while retracting the retainer.
Tie the fuse box out of the way as much as possible. I looped some steel wire around the terminal bolt on the corner of the fuse box. I made a hook to hang from a hole in the engine hood. Then I tied the wire to the hook.
You now have pretty good access to the upper radiator hose and the heater hose connections at the engine. Be careful. Most of the fittings are not metal, but a composite material. Slightly better access can be gained by disconnecting the electrical connector for the temperature sensor. Pull any wiring harnesses out of the way as necessary and as you are able.
The spring hose clamps ought be replaced with traditional worm drive hose clamps. The spring clamps can be difficult to remove, but some patient efforts with a couple different types of pliers will ususally be rewarded with success. All you need to do is to move the clamps off of the nipple fittings. Then slice the hose until you can see the length of the nipple fittings. A light twist or two removes what is left.
The lower heater hose connection on the back side of the engine is less daunting than it appears. Slide the fabric heat shield up away from the engine. Cut the old hose off entirely part of an inch away from the end of the nipple. There is a stainless steel spring inside the hose designed to keep it from collapsing. Do not try to cut through it. The piece still attached to the nipple actually has a quick release fitting sealed with an "O" ring. Squeeze the catches from both sides with your fingers until you can pull the quick release fitting back from the nipple.
Be careful to reconnect the new hoses in the same order. Put the fabric heat shield onto the lower hose going to the engine block. Attach this hose first. Next attach the hose on the left end of the engine. Next attach the right heater hose.
The left heater hose from the factory was formed, but, when I went to the parts store, their computer did not show a special hose. The "S" curve is too tight to avoid kinking. I bought 30 inches of 3/4 inch radiator hose and made a loop much like the cloverleaf on an interstate highway exit.
Good write up and procedure. What engine does your Alero have?
On the 3.4L Alero, the only parts I remove to the access the upper radiator hose is the battery and battery tray.
BTW - I would suggest that its not a good idea to remove the fuse box unless its an absolute necessity. The retaining system is flaky and if you're not careful its very easy to break the plastic on the fuse box that fits and holds it into the elongated slots on metal retainer. Its not a fun job changing out the fuse box.
Before you begin, you may as well remove the battery and battery tray, the case for the air cleaner, the engine compartment fuse box and the support bracket for the air cleaner case and the fuse box. It is easier to say those things than to do them. The battery and tray are straightforward, but be sure to deactivate any radio security codes before removing the battery. So is the air cleaner case.
The fuse box slides out toward the front of the car, but a retainer must first be released. In front of the fuse box you will notice two ribs stamped into the black metal support bracket. The retainer is between them on the bottom side of the fuse box. You may be able to reach under the bracket from the side and push up on the retainer bump. An easier way would be to cut a wooden block to position on the lower part of the metal bracket. Insert a screwdriver between the fuse box and the bracket. Push downward on the screwdriver handle while using the wooden block as a fulcrum. Slide the fuse box forward while retracting the retainer.
Tie the fuse box out of the way as much as possible. I looped some steel wire around the terminal bolt on the corner of the fuse box. I made a hook to hang from a hole in the engine hood. Then I tied the wire to the hook.
You now have pretty good access to the upper radiator hose and the heater hose connections at the engine. Be careful. Most of the fittings are not metal, but a composite material. Slightly better access can be gained by disconnecting the electrical connector for the temperature sensor. Pull any wiring harnesses out of the way as necessary and as you are able.
The spring hose clamps ought be replaced with traditional worm drive hose clamps. The spring clamps can be difficult to remove, but some patient efforts with a couple different types of pliers will ususally be rewarded with success. All you need to do is to move the clamps off of the nipple fittings. Then slice the hose until you can see the length of the nipple fittings. A light twist or two removes what is left.
The lower heater hose connection on the back side of the engine is less daunting than it appears. Slide the fabric heat shield up away from the engine. Cut the old hose off entirely part of an inch away from the end of the nipple. There is a stainless steel spring inside the hose designed to keep it from collapsing. Do not try to cut through it. The piece still attached to the nipple actually has a quick release fitting sealed with an "O" ring. Squeeze the catches from both sides with your fingers until you can pull the quick release fitting back from the nipple.
Be careful to reconnect the new hoses in the same order. Put the fabric heat shield onto the lower hose going to the engine block. Attach this hose first. Next attach the hose on the left end of the engine. Next attach the right heater hose.
The left heater hose from the factory was formed, but, when I went to the parts store, their computer did not show a special hose. The "S" curve is too tight to avoid kinking. I bought 30 inches of 3/4 inch radiator hose and made a loop much like the cloverleaf on an interstate highway exit.
Good write up and procedure. What engine does your Alero have?
On the 3.4L Alero, the only parts I remove to the access the upper radiator hose is the battery and battery tray.
BTW - I would suggest that its not a good idea to remove the fuse box unless its an absolute necessity. The retaining system is flaky and if you're not careful its very easy to break the plastic on the fuse box that fits and holds it into the elongated slots on metal retainer. Its not a fun job changing out the fuse box.
schraubemutter
07-03-2005, 08:27 AM
Good write up and procedure. What engine does your Alero have?
On the 3.4L Alero, the only parts I remove to the access the upper radiator hose is the battery and battery tray.
BTW - I would suggest that its not a good idea to remove the fuse box unless its an absolute necessity. The retaining system is flaky and if you're not careful its very easy to break the plastic on the fuse box that fits and holds it into the elongated slots on metal retainer. Its not a fun job changing out the fuse box.
Thanks for the kind words on my procedural description. I have a 4 cylinder 2.4 L engine. I should have mentioned that. For me there was no way to reach the hose behind the engine without removing the fuse box and the mounting bracket on which it sits.
On the 3.4L Alero, the only parts I remove to the access the upper radiator hose is the battery and battery tray.
BTW - I would suggest that its not a good idea to remove the fuse box unless its an absolute necessity. The retaining system is flaky and if you're not careful its very easy to break the plastic on the fuse box that fits and holds it into the elongated slots on metal retainer. Its not a fun job changing out the fuse box.
Thanks for the kind words on my procedural description. I have a 4 cylinder 2.4 L engine. I should have mentioned that. For me there was no way to reach the hose behind the engine without removing the fuse box and the mounting bracket on which it sits.
BNaylor
07-03-2005, 09:45 AM
Thanks for the kind words on my procedural description. I have a 4 cylinder 2.4 L engine. I should have mentioned that. For me there was no way to reach the hose behind the engine without removing the fuse box and the mounting bracket on which it sits.
You're welcome. Thats typical for GM to makes things hard for DIY work. The heater hoses are a lot easier to get at on the 3.4L models.
Nonetheless, very useful information.
You're welcome. Thats typical for GM to makes things hard for DIY work. The heater hoses are a lot easier to get at on the 3.4L models.
Nonetheless, very useful information.
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