I'm thinking of using 8.4 to 1 JE pistons and Eagle H-beams. Then a 300hp 2 stage pro fogger with a NOS progressive rate nitrous controller. 550cc or 720cc injectors, maybe MSD ignition. If I fix the throttle body up it will be fine, unless anyone has any suggestions on what type of throttle body / MAF are good replacements. 4-2-1 high flow header into an exhaust the size of my throttle body seletion, maybe a little larger.

With the appropriate suspension and drivetrain components I think it will serve me well. I don't want to swap an engine in, and frankly don't feel like building another turbo charged engine. It seems like a fun way to go, the nitrous controller offers a great diversity of configurations on demand. There is a progressive user defined percentage in each stage, allowing me to ramp up, or I can set a low percentage range when I want to conserve.

Please submit any ideas, know how, or previous experience with similar applications.


Thanks in advance

that sounds great if you like nitrous. with 8.4:1 though you will need it otherwise you will be gimpin' it bigtime.

So instead of going turbo, your going to dump a 300hp shot of nitrous?

Its not just a shot, its progressive rate horse power. I only want around 425 wheel horse power at full spray. I think it will be easy, actually the engine will likely make 150 whp with no nitrous using 8.4 to 1 JE pistons.

It will be kind of gimpy when I don't spray, and good on gas mileage hehe.

and how are you getting that number? that sounds kinda high

So putting in lower compretion pistons will increase horsepower?

HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAAHAHAHAHAHHAHAHHA HHAHHA!

funny

Yeah, I forgot the KA only gets 120 crank horse power? lol but with the 4-2-1 race exhaust and opening up all the choke points it will do well.. not 150 lmao my bad

The air flow meter seems like my biggest choke point.

Either way, at 120 whp I will achieve my goal of 400+ hp range when at full spray.

The KA makes 155 crank horsepower. And the exhaust will give it another 15whp, maybe, but the lower comp pistons will make it lose more.

9.2 to 1 is stock right? Maybe I should use 9 to 1, I want to retain a durability attribute.

Is there an easy swap throtle body appropriate for 550cc injectors? For example, my MKIII supra can use a Is300 throttle body that is 25% larger than stock, it works great with upgrade from 440cc to 550cc and is an easy switch. Is there an easy swap like that for the KA?

I think I've heard of people using the Q45 throttle body, but maybe it was the brakes...I dunno. Maybe an RB throttle body would be bigger then the KA one.

i dont think exhaust will add that much. also are you doing intake of any kind? and headers will get you like 2 hp at the wheels.

as for the throttle body, take a look at this (http://wheelskin.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=W&Product_Code=SPE-94245). i dont really know how much good that does but whatever. and you can always bore it out.

and the DE has 9.6:1 stock and thats 155 crank hp. with a full rebuild, intake, exhaust you might get close to like 145 or 150 at the wheels, but with 8.4:1 you will plummet down closer to 100.

Yea you guys are right, I will go with 9 to 1 or better. I want to make at least 120-130 whp.

This 4-2-1 header is going to free up more than 2 whp. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7983314762&category=33631

The throttle body does well enough, its the mass air meter that is the choke point. It is not large enough to provide the air my throttle body has the potential to breath + I want to upgrade injectors to top feed and more cc's.
When you increase the size of your injectors by 25% ,for example, you need to increase your air flow meter by 25%. Otherwise it isn't an effective change, an associated mod in my opinion.

Have any of you upgraded injector and MAF size on their KA?

Oh yea, the intake.. Of course I fixed the poorly designed "cold air intake" the previous owner had on the car. More like hot air intake. It sat on top of the radiator and got hot as phuck, not to mention the air filter was breathing air about 8 inches away from the exhaust manifold. I removed the battery, put it in the trunk, removed the plate that used to house the battery, cut a hole there, then turned the pipe 260 degrees or so counter clock wise, putting the air filter right in the scoop under the passenger side head light assembly.

Great plans.

Go with the lower comp pistons. This way, you may be able to squeeze by on pump gas. IDK about that though. May still be pushing it on timing.

JWT (http://www.jimwolftechnology.com) sells ECUs for nitrous applications. Enthalpy (http://www.rs-enthalpy.com) is in the process of developing one IIRC. You'll need some serious fuel and ignition control if you plan on making that much power off the sneeze bottle.

A set of cams would help out the loss of power you endure by lowering compression. But in reality, you'll benefit from it in the long run. More HP with less octane and more timing.

Larger MAFS and injectors are a no brainer. No way around it for that power goal. JWT (http://www.jimwolftechnology.com) supports 300zx and Ford cobra MAFSs. Enthalpy (http://www.rs-enthalpy.com) only supports 300zx. Injectors are cake to find. Everywhere sells them. Any injectors that fit the stock SR20 fuel rail fit the KADE stock fuel rail.

Your MAFS idea is actually called a "hacked" MAFS. You increase the MAFS diameter by the same % as you do the injector size. It works. But you'll need much more than that for your goals. By the time you get done with that, you'll have a paint can for a MAFS and that isn't gonna work. Plus you'll be left with way too much timing. ECU tune or stand-alone are the only feezable options for such goals.

Good luck.