Newbie W/ 455 Questions

Hey, All!!
I'm thinking about putting a Buick 455 in my Camaro. I've been told that they are the lightest of the big blocks, Comparable in weight to a small block 350, yet with All the HP and Torque of a big block. Now, I have questions. First, How do I tell a 455 from say a crappy little 307 or something just by looking? I know the exterior dimensions are Identical, and don't want to get screwed by the local junkyard Shysters.
Second, I've heard that the stock oil system sucks eggs. I'd like to get a bit wild with this motor, so what needs to be done to the oil system to keep the motor alive under extreme Abuse? Speaking of abuse, How much will the bottom end handle, before I need to invest in forged cranks and stuff?
What are some good Sources for 455 go fast goodies?
Thanks in advance.
Jeff

Its not hard to tell a Buick 350 or 455 from the rest of GM's brands... Look for the engine with the Dist on the front of the block. The challange is in telling the different Big blocks appart along Buick's lines. The 400/430/455's all are Identical in appearance, the only way to tell them apart without a teardown is to look above on the block where the trans bolts too... there it will have the CUI cast into housing. Ofcourse, Stamping numbers will tell also, but at the yard... this is the easiest way.

Bottom end can handle upwards of 600hp before you need to worry about a Girdle or anything... stock cranks can handle that, Billet cranks are only option if you want to go higher.

Go here for Parts:

http://www.TAperformance.com
There are a couple others, but I can't rember the websites right now.

Go here for more info on performance option/tricks, and oiling upgrades:

http://www.V8buick.com


Just make sure you set up the rest of the car to handle all the torque..... Stock 510ft. lbs is alot for a unibody and stock trans and rear for a camaro (well, not the 1st gens...lol)

I had a 1981 Buick regal with a 1973 buick 455. the only clearance problem I experienced was the passenger side valve cover hitting the heater-A/C box. I had to upgrade the radiator( blew the upper header tube right off) I replaced the two core with a four core radiator for a chevelle.

Any-way here is what my motor ended up with-Poston sage I remanufactured heads poston GS116 cam (very mild) a used edelbrock performer intake ( B4B are the ones you want mine wasen't) An HEI distributer from a 76 buick with high performance coil cap rotor and aftermarket advance springs and bushings along with the stock 4 pin ignition module) 8 mm wires and bosch platnum plugs. edelbrock 750cfm carb,holley "red" electric fuel pump crane cams version of rhoads style lifters( give less lift duration at low speeds full lift duration around 2500-3000rpm). I never did a thing to the bottom end aside from the oil pump modification(explained later)and had stock exhaust manifolds with 2 1/2"duals and thrush mufflers.

something to keep in mind the buicks used the old rope rear main seal. as long as it doesent leak I suppose that its fine, however if you do work on the lower end or have a leaking problem that you can get a newer type seal used by 76 caddilac 500cui for application purpose as it will work. another trick is on the heads the heat crossover holes can be plugged by a small freez plug(I forget the size,sorry). this will add some horsepower, but keep in mind if you live in a cold climate that it will take longer to warm up in winter.

my car Dident have the Ideal Buick 455 the compression was low and I could have gone with a bigger carb as it was.(buicks tend to like bigger cfm than normally recommended) if I was to alter the gear ratio I could have gone with a bigger cam. but Ill tell you that I had more than enough power and it was, amazing! you really dont need to do much to make some real torque! My advice dont go crazy with rpms these motors are truely muscle my mild motor would pull strong to 6000 RPM. I am suprised that the stock differential held up. and that would be something I think may pose a problem for you if you build a Buick 455 meant for bussiness.

P.s. stay away from the 76 motor the heads are poor.- and milodin makes a bottom plate for the oil pump gears. the reason that the oiling has a bad reputation is that the gears in stock form sit on an aluminum plate that becomes scored allowing oil pressure to be lost. my plate came from a kit sold through napa it also comes with a variety of presure bypass springs.

good luck, this combo of yours sounds fun.