ACK what have I done!

I knew my buddy's Nova was going to smoothly. Laid a beautiful green base coat, dried for 24 hours... laid one light coat of Testor's clear on top... looked pretty good.... lay the second coat about 15min later... BUBBLES! BUBBLES BUBBLES EVERYWHERE AAAAAAAAAAAH :mad:

So I think I laid the second clear coat too early (that usually causes bubbles right?) ... they're over most panel lines and the wheel arches, among other places... is there any chance I could sand these areas down to the green and re-clear them? Or should just start the whole damn thing over :disappoin

If I do have to start over, will the CSC dissolve glue or Tamiya putty? Cuz I have a lot of custom kitbashing done here, including the rear panel (lots of filler) and glue (the damn fenders are seperate pieces on this kit.)

:uhoh:

No worries about the CSC- it'll leave your putty work and glue seams unaffected.

What are you using for paint? Testors clear gloss laquer over it? Got any pics...?

I'll get pics tonight, but the in-progress pics (before the clearcoat) are in the WIP section.

It's Tamiya primer, duplicolor GM Metallica Green, and then Testors clearcoat. I have successfully used this method on two other cars with fantastic results, so I think the clear is safe with the Testors color...

To add to what MPWR said, you were correct about the bubbles, as they usually form when you dont wait long enough. I learned something today, thnx MPWR!

So I guess sanding's not an option?

So I guess sanding's not an option?

Can't tell- let's see some pics!

if it happened with the clear coat, i would imagine you could sand a rub it out. start with some 1500 and work to some 2000 and then rub it out. as long as it didn't eat or "etch" the lower layers of paint it should be able to be sanded away without much trouble...just a question why use testors clear? you can get the BIG can of duplicolor for a dollar or 2 more and it goes much further. especially if you are using duplicolor paints. the paint work goes much faster and smoother for me. now if you are using the testors pearl coat thats a different story...testors/model master...just my .02

k...

http://www.efnetcars.com/album/temp/ajq.jpg
http://www.efnetcars.com/album/temp/ajr.sized.jpg
http://www.efnetcars.com/album/temp/ajt.jpg
http://www.efnetcars.com/album/temp/aju.jpg

hmmm...it looks like you laid in too thick.

i really like that color. hope you can fix it without too much effort.

i use plasti-kote paints they sell them at Pepboys an i lay the clear probably 8min apart an it comes out smooth as hell

There's probably no harm in trying to sand it, but from the pics, the blistering looks pretty extensive- you're probably looking at alot of careful, tedious work. I'd say you'll probably have to use something at least as course as 2000 to get the blisters off, and then sand it back to 8000 or 12000 before clearcoating. I expect stripping is a more realistic option.

Duplicolor is a laquer or enamel? (I've never used the stuff.) If it's a laquer, you'll probably have better luck with 99% isopropyl alcohol than with CSC. It'll be safer on your putty work than brake fluid.

I'd have to say you probably clearcoated too soon. When using dissimilar clearcoat (i.e., anything other than Duplicolor clear over Duplicolor paint), the paint must be allowed to outgas completely before covering. Hot paints like laquers obviously use strong solvents, and because they're so volitile, eventually, they will all gas out (enamels are a bit, but not alot better). If the paint is covered with clearcoat before this happens, only bad things can result. Give it a week or so to be safe before you cover it.

not sure if you are talking dissimilar paints or not. but if i am doing an OOB build, i go from primer to clear in less than 24 hours. and that is working with all duplicolors, without a single problem. i dont see a need to go all the way to 8000 and 12000. i have never had a problem with shine when i go 1500 2000 and then rub it out with some 3m rubbing compound.

Ya, I should stress that the first coat of clear was great. The bubbling occured between the two coats of clear. And like I said, I've used this process before and it turned out great.

Ya, I should stress that the first coat of clear was great. The bubbling occured between the two coats of clear. And like I said, I've used this process before and it turned out great.

The funny (read as annoying) thing about outgassing is that there are a whole bunch of variables that contribute to the start time and duration. This means that you can have your first clear coat on, and it looks great, so you do the second. Then the ambient temperature increases, or the relative humidity decreases, or the fates decide they don't like you anymore, whatever, and the outgassing starts. The only sure way to make sure that you've let it outgas sufficiently is to give it plenty of time :mad:

The funny (read as annoying) thing about outgassing is that there are a whole bunch of variables that contribute to the start time and duration. This means that you can have your first clear coat on, and it looks great, so you do the second. Then the ambient temperature increases, or the relative humidity decreases, or the fates decide they don't like you anymore, whatever, and the outgassing starts. The only sure way to make sure that you've let it outgas sufficiently is to give it plenty of time :mad:

Is true.

Just because you've used laquer this way and it's worked before does not mean that it will always work. Ever painted a body with laquer without priming it first? Guess what- sometimes it works ok. Sometimes, it turns out great. But there is always the possibility that it won't. So, nearly everyone primes first before painting laquer. Same kind of deal here. So maybe you, or someone you know, has been able to get this to work-that doesn't mean it's a SAFE way to do it. When it decides to go wrong, it will go wrong. To me, it's always worth priming, and waiting a couple of weeks before clearcoating. I freaking hate to strip and start over.

If you can smell the paint on the body still, it definately isn't safe to cover it. Can't say it definately won't work- you may get lucky again and have it go ok. Want to risk it?

my success ratio working with duplicolor paints has been 100% and that is with painting the body from start to finish in less than 24 hours

Well it's in the CSC now, so I guess we'll see. I found a can of Testor's clear in my box, so I guess I'll give that a try instead anyway :wink:

my success ratio working with duplicolor paints has been 100% and that is with painting the body from start to finish in less than 24 hours

I can second that, and I use Krylon primers underneath it all. But I'm cheap like that.

MPWR: where do I get isopropal alcohol? Is that just normal rubbing alchohol? The CSC didn't seem to phase the duplicolor at all

I've stripped a duplicolored car with brake fluid before, it didn't harm the putty or the glue but it did take some soaking. I ended up scraping off the paint because I'm impatient. And cheap.

You can get isopropyl in any decent grocery store, in the first aid section. It is rubbing alcohol, but it will say isopropyl on the bottle, and the concentration. Get 99% if you can, 91% will do. It's really cheap, a bottle will run you $1 USD. While you're in the grocery store, go to the plastic storeage container section and get some of the largeish reusable/recylable storage containers. Glad makes a size that fits car bodies rather well. Isopropyl is highly volitile (evaporative), so it's best to keep it covered and let the body soak. If you get the 99% stuff, you don't have to wory about it geting weaker as it evaporates- as it's straight alcohol, the relative water content doesn't increase.

Yeah, you can use brake fluid instead, and it may not soften your putty work- but that depends alot on the putty itself. Alcohol is safer, and probably cheaper too (and less poisonous, and you don't have to find a safe way of disposing it!).

Cool, the alcohol worked (although it was $3.99 for each bottle and I needed two bottles to fill enough of the container to cover the car, liar :icon16: ) ... I was surprised at how well the paint just peeled right off, good stuff. It didn't take the primer off though, being that I was using tamiya primer, so now it's back in the CSC to get rid of that.... allllmost there :grinyes: