New Rotors? Brakes?

Could anyone give me an idea of how much it would cost to replace the rotors on a 2001 LS? How about new brakes? I don't know much about mechanics, so any tips would be welcomed. Thanks.

you can expect around $500

Could anyone give me an idea of how much it would cost to replace the rotors on a 2001 LS? How about new brakes? I don't know much about mechanics, so any tips would be welcomed. Thanks.


I had Meinike(?) do my front brakes and rotor for around $400.00. Less than a few thousand miles later I was back in because the rotors had warped. they said it was my driving style but turned them for free. Also 'inspected' the rears and said they needed doing plus new rotors in the next 1000 miles.

4,000 miles later, I went and bought the pads and rotors to replace the rears myself for bit over $100.00. Went to the auto shop on my AFB to do the job. Mechanic on duty took a look at what I was diong and asked why I was doing the rear brakes because I still had a lot of pad left (dudes at Mienike lied basically).

So since I had the thing apart I went ahead and did the brakes/rotors on the rears.

If you were to do it yourself, I think you could do front and backs, with new rotors for around $200.00 in materials. if you went to have them all done someplace else I'd bet it would cost atleast double that.

I'm going to do mine over labor day wkend. I priced good product sold by NAPA and it will cost between 3 and 4Hundred sans tax.


Hey jbs80106, I have the manual for the Impala but very little real world experience. -Do you have any advice?

This is how I do mine, I remove a little fluid from reservoir w/suction bulb or turkey baster. Keep an eye on the level as you work each wheel so you don't run it down too much. remove the caliper hang with coat hanger or bungie cord so not to put strain on hose. remove rotor and clean mounting surface then clean new rotor w/brakecleaner to remove protective oils. open bleeder and press piston into bore using 8" C-clamp with old inner shoe as a press , (this prevents any dirty fluid being pushed back up into res)... close bleeder. Inspect boot around piston well for cracks an clean it well. clean slide pins and reapply slide pin lube liberally, then put new shoes in and replace caliper. replace tire and be sure to tighten lugs equally (100 ft lbs) is torque spec for Impala. I do not use torque as most home mechs don't. but you can judge it pretty well I think. A couple of other things here, if you are doing all 4 wheels start w/passenger rear, driver rear the front right then driver side front. do the same when going through the bleeding process starting at the furthest point from res. If over 100K miles replace all fluid with new by bleeding in order until fluid runs clear at each wheel. If boots are cracked I would recommend replacing the caliper(s) should do both at each end (front or back) if only one is bad. Also be aware that NAPA rotors are made in China. I've used them and had no problem but some folks won't use them so it's your call, they are not chamfered at wheel mounting surface as GM part is. Or you could possibly just get yours turned if within tolerance generally 5 bucks ea.

MuChO GrAciAS senior 57chevyragtop. I shall do as you describe.

China? Maybe I'll just order from 3800 or something.

Just butting into this to say shops are horrible at lieing with brakes. I had a shop tell me my pads were 'dangerously low'... I said thats nice... had it checked by my mechanic friend and said they were good for at least another 10k miles. Hah... so much for trusting shops =D

My theory is: Learn how to Change the fluids and do basic maintenance yrself. I have had good luck w/ my cars by changing the oil and transmission fluid and radiator fluid early and often. Also plugs and wires.

I just need to get good at brakes, brake fluid, power steering fluid.

doing brakes yourself is acutally pretty easy, if you want to save money, go and buy a repair manual. if you can get through doing brakes once, you will not have a problem doing it a second time. I think you guys will be impressed with doing it yourself. If it's been awhile it's going to be a pain in the ass getting the caliper of the rotor, but just be firm and really hit it, what are you going to do, damage the parts you are going to replace anyways. Just remember when you do it to have a clamp or the proper tool to push the caliper piston back in so you have proper clearance with the new pads and rotor and getting them back on. Sometimes threading the caliper bolt back on the plate piece and be challenging but in the end you saved yourself money.

Mike

I had Meinike(?) do my front brakes and rotor for around $400.00. Less than a few thousand miles later I was back in because the rotors had warped. they said it was my driving style but turned them for free. Also 'inspected' the rears and said they needed doing plus new rotors in the next 1000 miles.

The reason your rotors warped was because your lug nuts were not toqued properly and to specification...Pulsations that occur 3000-6000 miles after the tires have been removed and reinstalled are caused by incorrect torque.

Brakes are a simple system to work on, but you must remember 1 thing.
BRAKES ARE A SAFETY ITEM!!!!!!!!
If you perform repairs on your brake system, the burden of responsibility if you are involved in a collision falls squarely on your shoulders.
There are critical measurements of componants that must be taken into consideration when repairing your brake system..one of these componants falls outside the spec, you are basically driving an unsafe vehicle.

They are easy to do i replace my front rotors every 15 or 20k.I drive 55k ayear and break real hard.I use napa rotors (real cheap) I turn them once and then replace.I change the pads every other time.And Merlin is right if you torque the lugs all evenly they last alot longer.

why would you taqke brake fluid out of the master cylinder?

You dont need to do that at all to change the brakes.

take the wheel off,take the caliper off,push the pads back with a clamp ,take the rotor off,put new rotor on ,calipers back on,check brake fluid to make sure you didnt lose any when pushing pads back,put whell on ,torque lugs and beat on it for 15k and do it again

billyo69. -You can tell a man who knows what he is talking about when his statement is concise.

why would you taqke brake fluid out of the master cylinder?

You dont need to do that at all to change the brakes.

Come on don't be ignorant..
Compressing the caliper pistons forces the brake fluid back into the master cylinder, by removing some of the fluid in the M/C before doing this, you will prevent fluid from spilling out of the M/C.
Prevents damage to painted surfaces and if the brake fluid gets on wiring can cause damage to the insulation...plus you don't make a mess.

Bet you would be the first person to slam someone who spilled brake fluid on your ride

Come on don't be ignorant..
Compressing the caliper pistons forces the brake fluid back into the master cylinder, by removing some of the fluid in the M/C before doing this, you will prevent fluid from spilling out of the M/C.
Prevents damage to painted surfaces and if the brake fluid gets on wiring can cause damage to the insulation...plus you don't make a mess.

Bet you would be the first person to slam someone who spilled brake fluid on your ride


no, acually i just got done replacing the brake lines on my car, and i got brake fluid everywhere (by accidently leaving the cap off, and hitting the brakes)

but the same ammount of fluid is in your car, when you buy your car brand new, there is lets say 1 pt. of brake fluid. When you get dont changing your brakes, guess how much fluid is left? 1 pt.

Taking fluid out does nothing.. no fluid is going to squirt out of the master cylinder cap, they fit on pretty damn tight, remember that cap is there when your hitting your brakes too, putting pressure on it.

why would you taqke brake fluid out of the master cylinder?

You dont need to do that at all to change the brakes.

it is a smart thing to do as when removing and replaceing pads you have to squeeze the calipers open one so they fit and 2 so the fit over new rotors also you will avoid over expanding a half worn brake line and puncturing it often leading to fluid leaks while braking

You usually end up with to much brake fluid in the master cyl only if someone added some when it didnt need any (over filling)

You usually end up with to much brake fluid in the master cyl only if someone added some when it didnt need any (over filling)

yes, if their stupid, and thought they needed more when their brakes were low.

Theres a lot of stupid people out there

no, acually i just got done replacing the brake lines on my car, and i got brake fluid everywhere (by accidently leaving the cap off, and hitting the brakes)

but the same ammount of fluid is in your car, when you buy your car brand new, there is lets say 1 pt. of brake fluid. When you get dont changing your brakes, guess how much fluid is left? 1 pt.

Taking fluid out does nothing.. no fluid is going to squirt out of the master cylinder cap, they fit on pretty damn tight, remember that cap is there when your hitting your brakes too, putting pressure on it.

As a professional technician, I take some time to remove some fluid from the M/C to insure that none will spill when I compress the caliper pistons back (you never know if someone has added fluid to the M/C)
A little time taken to prevent spills insures customer satisfaction

Hi,

I tried changing my brakes but when I got them all taken apart I realized there was still a lot of brake pad left and the rotors were in pretty good shape except slightly warped! So I put the pads back in and will save my new stuff untill next summer etc.

Brake Installation.pdf (http://members.core.com/~crzyzepp/2003Impala.pdf)

By The Way...

I bought the $100.00 rotors from Napa and the box says "Made in USA," and the rotors themselves are stamped "Canada..." so I quess it's only the $40.00 rotors that are made in china etc.

I have had good luck with certain parts that I got from Napa so I was glad to see that Made in USA. I have found that Napa has the best stuff around for certain things etc.

Sometimes if I buy something that is made in third world counties like China I have found flaws that drove me up a wall. Even stuff that is "designed in the US" but made elseware sometimes is just wrong.

I hope this country doesn't fall apart because we are the only ones who can make good stuff & have high expectations etc.

Mike you should have turned or replaced your rotors anyways as warped rotors when braking can ruin alot of front end parts from the shaking.

Actually, I bought my '03 as a yr. old car, so I figured by now it probly needed new brakes because I need some new tires...

Anyway, I guess the dealership must have put new brakes on just before I bought this car! After I did my look over I tightened the wheels on real tight and the vibration during braking in NOTICABLY less!

OK i see.But if the steering wheel shakes when you brake you need to do the rotors.My rotors always warp long before my pads wear.

Could anyone give me an idea of how much it would cost to replace the rotors on a 2001 LS? How about new brakes? I don't know much about mechanics, so any tips would be welcomed. Thanks.

I had my rotors (all 4 discs) with new pads replaced last month, it cost $900. That was with GM rotors, not aftermarket (GM discs were over $50 cheaper) and the pads were Raybestos.

I had to do all 4 since the backs were completely shot and the front had to pick up the slack and prematurely wore the fronts out. Car has 82k on it.

If I went with the mechanics rotors, instead of GM, I would have paid $1300 for all four wheels.

-Tom

I have an 01 with 145k that i bought with 45k.I have never done the rears.I have done the fronts at least 4 times. Your fronts are going to get 90% of the wear no matter what.I drive 1k a week and alot of hard brakeing.I found the gm stuff didnt last much longer than the MUCH cheaper NAPA crap.