Twin Turbo Swap...


k3smostwanted
06-22-2005, 03:23 AM
Twin Turbo Swap Write-Up:

Parts Needed:

-VG30DETT Motor
-TT Transmission*
-TT AC lines
-TT AC condenser
-TT Radiator, Upper Radiator Mounts, and Upper radiator hose (Lower radiator hoses are the same)
-Intercoolers w/ Ducts and Mounting Brackets
-Intercooler Piping
-Twin Turbo ECU or N/A Re-mapped
-Twin Turbo OEM EFI Harness or Boost Controller**
-Custom Drive-shaft or Use TT front half shaft (if you have a 2+2, it would be more difficult to source a 2+2 TT half-shaft, so do yourself a favor and buy a custom drive shaft)
-Motor Mounts***
-Oil Cooler and Lines
-TT Clutch & Flywheel
-N/A Power steering pump and mounting bracket
-N/A AC compressor if you bought a JDM motor
-TT Mid-pipes of you bought a A-spec motor. N/A mid-pipes if you bought a J-spec motor.

*You can make the 5-speed N/A transmission work by fabricating a shimmy between the starter and bell housing. this will allow you to fit the slightly larger TT flywheel in the transmission.
**If you buy a TT EFI Harness, the boost solenoids will connect directly up to the wiring harness and therefore be controlled by the ECU. You can use a N/A EFI harness but you will need to buy an external boost controller, I am buying and recommend the Greddy Profec B.
**When, pulling the engine out of the Z32, you are just about guaranteed to break the motor mount in half. Therefore, you will need to purchase a new set. I went ahead and ordered a set of solid motor mounts.

I also strongly recommend if you plan to attempt this, to purchase a Service Manual. This will come in handy when you receive your TT motor and all the hoses are cut in half and you do not have a clue where they go.

Transmission Removal: [Excuse me if I miss a few things, it has been a while since I did this part of the swap :)]

1 Jack the car approximately 2ft off the ground at least. Once the Rear End is supported in the air, you can put the car in neutral and/or remove the parking brake.
2 Remove the Mid-section of the exhaust...my Stillen cat-back is 2 different sections in itself so I left the mufflers. The stock cat-back exhaust may need to be totally removed.
3 Remove Drive Shaft Heat Shield and the Drive Shaft itself.
4 Remove all wiring harnesses and Starter from the transmission.
5 Now, place a support jack or transmission lift to support the transmission. It is fine to support it by the pan. Nissan used nice heavy duty oil pans.
6 Remove Rear Transmission Support.
7 Unbolt all Bolt that hold the transmission to the rear of the engine, the top 2 will not be able to be reached directly.
8 To unbolt the top 2 bolts you will need about a 3 ft extension. Slowly lower the transmission until you can see the top 2 bolts, but make sure that the transmission is still supported. Then wiggle the extension around until you get it on the bolt. This can be a little tricky and frustrating so be patient.
9 Now the Transmission should be completely supported by the jack or stand...Slowly back the transmission off of the motor. Gradually lower it down and remove it from under the car. While your in the process of lowering it, you can easily reach the dipstick tube’s bolt and remove the dipstick holster from the transmission.

Motor Removal:

1 Remove the Hood. This makes it a lot easier to maneuver and get some good lighting under the hood but more importantly, you do not want to hurt it when the engine comes out.
2 Remove Radiator shroud and radiator. Radiator shroud is held on by a few bolts, 2 on the side and one at the top. the only thing holding the radiator in is the upper support brackets and the hoses. Make sure you drain the radiator and then remove the hoses or else you will have very nice mess on your hands.
3 Remove Air intake tubes and hoses attached to it. This could be a good idea to label the hoses you remove as I have found that finding where some hoses go is one of the harder things to do.
4 Now remove the Upper Air Balance Tube...this is so you can remove hoses and the EFI harness from the motor.
5 Remove all plugs and hoses held to the engine and lay over the fenders or out of the way. Do not forget to remove the power steering fluid hoses and the AC lines (Or drop the whole AC compressor and let it hang).
6 Remove Throttle and Cruise Control Cables.
7 Now their shouldn’t be anything holding your engine in the car except the motor mounts.
8 There are 2 nuts that hold the bolt from the motor mounts into the lower support. Remove these 2 nuts.
9 Now support the motor to your hoist...have someone raise the hoist as you, with a floor jack, jack up on the bottom of the oil pan.
10 Now just slowly raise the motor out and guide it along the way to make sure the headers from the N/A do not catch on the brake booster or any other vital parts.

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***If anyone needs details on anything you can start a new thread or Private Message me. I left details out to keep me from having to write a 100 page novel. I do realize that this is a guideline but it is just about as detailed a the Nissan manual without costing $100. I can give details on what or where to remove bolts that hold on certain parts.***

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------------Out with the Old, in with the New!!!-------

So, now you have the old N/A drive-train out, it’s time to put the new one in...not quite yet. If you have any ideas of painting your engine bay or replacing old power-steering hoses or anything of that nature. Do it now...everything is able to be reached easy now that the motor is out of the way. I would at least advise you to scrub the bay a little bit and clean some of the caked on dirt and oil. Now is also the time, to install your clutch lines and pedal, if doing a 5-speed swap at the same time. Also, any gauges or anything that you plan on adding, I would go ahead and run the wiring and hardware now.

So, now you have a engine bay ready for everything involved with Twin Turbofying your car. First, I would start by mounting your Intercoolers and piping that runs through the front of the chassis to the engine bay. This is not that hard, you may need to drill a few holes and put new mounting bolts and mounting brackets on. After that, take a few minutes and install your AC Lines.

After you have you intercooler piping installed, you can now install the TT AC condenser. More than likely, the mounts for this and your radiator will need to be modified. If you have any questions about modifying these two items, I will probably be able to help you. The reason why these parts need modification is because they are taller to make up for the lack of width they have, due to the intercooler piping hat slides beside on both sides.

Next, mount your oil cooler. To tell you the truth, I have no idea how or where the stock oil cooler mounts and it doesn’t really matter. Just mount it someplace where it is going get good air flow. I bought an aftermarket PWR 15 row universal oil cooled and fabricated some brackets to mount it right in front of the AC condenser and radiator but behind the intake. This wont be possible with the stock air box but you should not have that anymore anyways. If you till have the stock air box, I recommend getting rid of it immediately as it just takes up space.

So, now your engine bay is virtually ready for your TT motor but now you have to prepare the motor for your engine bay. The TT power steering pump needs to be removed as does a JDM AC compressor, if you did indeed purchase a JDM motor. I do not know if the US spec AC compressor is the same as the N/A but I assume it is. The TT power steering pump is different as it is much larger and has an extra port for the HICAS system. The bracket the mounts the pump to the block also needs to be changed in order for the N/A pump to bolt on. Once the brackets are changed over, it is as simple as bolting it on. I won’t get into changing the AC compressors because it bolts directly in place of the other.

Also, now I a good time to do any cleaning of the engine, inspection of parts, etc. I found out quickly the motor I received had two bad turbochargers, one having a toasted oil seal. Yes, it is a heart breaking and put a chip in my wallet, but its better that I find out now rather than later. Don’t forget to install the boost piping leading away from the turbos. I could see that being a real pain in the ass when the engine is in the car.

Now, your engine is ready as is your engine bay. If you decided to buy a TT EFI harness, make sure you install it before the engine is put back in. Now, drop the new motor in and plug in all your connectors. All your hoses need to be re-attached. Do the reverse of everything you did to take it out. Make sure to follow the diagrams in your service manual for re-attaching vacuum hoses and such. When you go to install your new transmission if you bought one from a TT. Make sure you change over the speed sensor as it coordinates with your rear differential. If you are doing the modification to the starter mount to fit your N/A 5-speed in you will not have to worry about this. Don’t forget to install your boost controller if you decided to stick with your N/A harness or else you will be wondering why your 300hp motor is slower than your previous 222hp motor.

Make sure you have changed over your ECU’s. I am not going to get into details about changing over your ECU but if you have questions, feel free to ask away.
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Keep in mind, I have probably forgotten a million things because I did not type this while I was doing the swap. I took the time to type this out after I did most things and before I did some things. I will edit it when necessary and when I have realized I forgot something or decide to add more details. This is more or less a guideline to help answer quite a few questions before you post a new thread. So, before you open a new thread you can ask more detailed questions instead of “What is involved in swapping in a Twin Turbo motor?” or “What parts do I need and How expensive is it to do?”

Remember, this will take time for the average person so expect to be without your car for a generous amount of time. There will always be problems you will run into and these problems usually take time to overcome because most of us do not have a complete auto shop and parts store around back of our houses.

Good Luck and Enjoy the phenomenon we call Boost!!!

*Pictures will be added at a later date and will focus more on the Twin Turbo parts installation.*
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probehtr300
06-22-2005, 04:38 PM
very nice write-up jason and well done.
so now when r u gunna have your car running ?
oh yeah ---STICKY

k3smostwanted
06-23-2005, 01:32 PM
very nice write-up jason and well done.
so now when r u gunna have your car running ?
oh yeah ---STICKY

umm...im shooting for a few weeks or less. we will see...i go to pick up my new turbos tomorrow and i have a long weekend following that, so my plan is to get it mostly put back together and be waiting on my radiator and boost controller.

DeleriousZ
06-23-2005, 08:02 PM
good write up dude... i didn't read it, but i know it's good already... :D

k3smostwanted
06-24-2005, 12:39 AM
good write up dude... i didn't read it, but i know it's good already... :D

ehh...it isnt that good. i probably forgot about a million things because i did half this stuff like a month ago. but it is more detailed than the nissan manual and i figure it will help anyone get an idea for what it is...also, keep us from answering vague questions. if someone reads and still has questions, it will probably be a more specific question rather than "what d i need to do a TT swap?" :rolleyes:

18sHonda
06-24-2005, 12:55 PM
K real quick question k3 did you stick with your N/A Tranny or did u go TT? And If you stick with the N/A Pro's & Con's?

k3smostwanted
06-24-2005, 02:14 PM
K real quick question k3 did you stick with your N/A Tranny or did u go TT? And If you stick with the N/A Pro's & Con's?
i went with the TT tranny as i am changing to a manual at the same time so i just went ahead and bought the TT tranny instead of messing with the N/A.

anyways, it is the same nissan part number as far as i know, the transmissions are identical except for the the size of the bellhousing. you will need a custom made bracket that moves the starter farther off the housing to account for the slightly larger TT flywheel. other than that i havent really heard much about it...

i heard a while back that the N/A transmission wasn't a good idea if you plan on making some decent power with the TT engine, but Z specialist shops (like Z1 motorsports) say they have never seen anything that would confirm that the N/A transmission is weaker and they do indeed use the N/A transmission when doing a swap.

datsunscom
06-25-2005, 11:45 AM
anyways, it is the same nissan part number as far as i know, the transmissions are identical except for the the size of the bellhousing. you will need a custom made bracket that moves the starter farther off the housing to account for the slightly larger TT flywheel. other than that i havent really heard much about it...

i heard a while back that the N/A transmission wasn't a good idea if you plan on making some decent power with the TT engine,

Ahh, the NA-TT swap - sadly the same conversion was done in my Datsun, so I feel your pain (ok actually Ron Tyler (www.rontyler.com) feels your pain).

NA-TT you need about a 1/8in SPACER between the starter and bellhousing is all as you stated initially. The trannies are the same except for this minor detail. I know because I had an NA VG30DE with a TT flywheel and an NA tranny.

You probably want to add DETT front valence to the list? Other than that your list looks good.

Some really good detail about NA --> TT is here :
http://tinyurl.com/dnjdg

I've heard about breaking motor mounts but I've removed/reinstalled my DETT perhaps 6-7 times (at around 15hrs each time, ugh!) and haven't busted one yet(?).

probehtr300
06-25-2005, 12:27 PM
yeah i was thinking about the whole N/A front end blocking the new intercoolers, but i figure id just remove my foglamps...i didnt really look into if that would allow addiquate air to get the the ICs. But it was an idea and thats always an option for anyone with a budget.

k3smostwanted
06-25-2005, 02:13 PM
yeah i was thinking about the whole N/A front end blocking the new intercoolers, but i figure id just remove my foglamps...i didnt really look into if that would allow addiquate air to get the the ICs. But it was an idea and thats always an option for anyone with a budget.

nah...your gonna need to cut something on the bumper. the foglights sit in a little plastic pocket in the front bumper. i can take a picture if you would like but you would have to cut the back of this pocket out and do come custom duct work to get the air back the the intercooler. i would just get a TT front fascia...just look on TT.net. alot of times people sell their stock TT bumpers after they changed to an aftermarket one. there was actually just one on their a few weeks ago that was your same color and seemed to be in really good condition.

k3smostwanted
06-25-2005, 02:17 PM
Some really good detail about NA --> TT is here :
http://tinyurl.com/dnjdg

I've heard about breaking motor mounts but I've removed/reinstalled my DETT perhaps 6-7 times (at around 15hrs each time, ugh!) and haven't busted one yet(?).

yeah russel is the man...his description of what parts were different helped me out alot. i just wanted to go into a little more detail on how to actually perform the task rather than just stating what was needed...

my motor mounts cracked in half on the first time as do most peoples but i have seen a few pictures of guys who's motor mounts dont need to be replaced. id call yourself lucky...either that, or you havent quite had the motor in their long enough for the rubber to 'glue' itself to the crossmember.

probehtr300
06-26-2005, 04:41 PM
nah...your gonna need to cut something on the bumper. the foglights sit in a little plastic pocket in the front bumper. i can take a picture if you would like but you would have to cut the back of this pocket out and do come custom duct work to get the air back the the intercooler. i would just get a TT front fascia...just look on TT.net. alot of times people sell their stock TT bumpers after they changed to an aftermarket one. there was actually just one on their a few weeks ago that was your same color and seemed to be in really good condition.

word, i thought the fogs sat in litle pockets cuz i saw that when i replaced mine, they were all cracked and broken. As far as buying a used TT frontend or just getting an aftermarket one i think i might have more fun designing and cutting my stock one and then fabing up some ducting, in fact that sounds really fun.

k3smostwanted
06-26-2005, 05:39 PM
word, i thought the fogs sat in litle pockets cuz i saw that when i replaced mine, they were all cracked and broken. As far as buying a used TT frontend or just getting an aftermarket one i think i might have more fun designing and cutting my stock one and then fabing up some ducting, in fact that sounds really fun.

yeah i would do that...and even if you dont want to do soem crazy stuff to your bumper. you could always try or take it to a custom body shopa nd show them a picture of the TT front bumper and im sure they could do a good job making the gills. good luck man...you would probably want a bigger hole than your fog lights will provide anyways.

i am trying to take my fog lights out and do some custom duct work all the way back to my front brakes.

NMZXTT
07-18-2005, 09:00 PM
If you use the NA tranny with a TT flywheel/clutch, you have to grind the inside of the bellhousing to clear the larger flywheel.

ZedEx
07-18-2005, 09:20 PM
Nice Jason. Stickied thread for you :thumbsup:

-Wes

k3smostwanted
07-18-2005, 09:42 PM
If you use the NA tranny with a TT flywheel/clutch, you have to grind the inside of the bellhousing to clear the larger flywheel.

no not exactly...i have talked to a guy that used the N/A transmission and all he used was the shim between the starter and the bell housing. i hvae also heard that the bell-housing needs grinded down but Z1 says it does not. :dunno:

maybe nissan changed the size of the bell housing during the run of the Z32s...:dunno:

thanks wes...i was waiting for you to do this.

jam4shi
07-18-2005, 09:51 PM
Something else to remember guys...

For those of you that may happen to be converting an N/A 2+2 to a TT make sure that you are prepared to spend slightly more money... about $700 more. TT swap was made to be a B***h just so people can change from liking a nissan to lusting for a nissan. Be safe patient and prepared to know that your going to make mistakes if you try new shortcuts without experience. Although the instructions seem simple there are many other things that your going to just have to learn on your own...

Might I suggest
Ordering your parts from anybody may seem like a good idea at first but trust me its not. There are people with money that are still thursty for more and really don't care how they get it so if your on a TT only budget, always be prepared to purchase other simple things that people don't care about you worrying about. i.e. bolts, nuts, and gaskets. Be sure to also check out everything when your ordering it. Chances are, especially if its your first swap, that many of the parts that your order are not only going to be difficult to find but once you do find them getting them to yourself once you need them... For instance you may have ordered your full engine and transmission but won't later discover that your transmission is missing your its bolts.

Keep in mind what kind of car it is that you have, even though there may not be many in your area, there are many being used (parts wise). What this means is that your parts that you ordered have been around a few times. The dealer that you bought it from probably didn't have the 300 full body but probably just parts for it laying around. Mechanic shops that don't want to buy new parts usually dont care because they are just trying to make a sale.

Finnaly as mentioned before this is not an easy swap so take your time, understand that nissan isn't a simple american small block, learn from your mistakes the first time please, and enjoy your new wonderful probably permanent new edition to your racing family.

BTW: excellent post k3
Highly professional and clariful keep up the good work

k3smostwanted
07-18-2005, 10:05 PM
For instance you may have ordered your full engine and transmission but won't later discover that your transmission is missing your its bolts.



did you have someone in mind you were speaking about??? :lol:

i think i will be ready to undertake the RB20DET in the Z31 next year wether or not you buy it. i think it will be fun to say the least.

NMZXTT
07-19-2005, 02:34 PM
no not exactly...i have talked to a guy that used the N/A transmission and all he used was the shim between the starter and the bell housing. i hvae also heard that the bell-housing needs grinded down but Z1 says it does not.

Hey whatever, but I have actually DONE the conversion, and I am telling you, if you use a TT flywheel with a NA tranny, you HAVE to grind out the inside of the bellhousing, AND fabricate a 4mm shim to go under the starter.

http://www.300zxclub.com/faq/natt/trannyafter1.jpg

http://www.300zxclub.com/faq/natt/shimandstarter.jpg

No hearsay here. Actual experience.

k3smostwanted
07-19-2005, 04:44 PM
Hey whatever, but I have actually DONE the conversion, and I am telling you, if you use a TT flywheel with a NA tranny, you HAVE to grind out the inside of the bellhousing, AND fabricate a 4mm shim to go under the starter.

No hearsay here. Actual experience.

i know your telling the turth and all but im saying...many people ahve done the conversion without grinding down the bell housing. trust me...or you can read for yourself at TwinTurbo.net

people do it both ways...i believe that you had too but i also knwo there are people who havent. sorry to burst your bubble...

ZedEx
07-19-2005, 04:48 PM
What do you mean buy 'shim'?

-Wes

k3smostwanted
07-19-2005, 04:53 PM
What do you mean buy 'shim'?

-Wes

a little piece of fabricated metal that will space the starter off of the bell housing...it allows you to slide in the larger TT flywheels and still have the teeth line up on the starter.

NMZXTT
07-19-2005, 06:56 PM
What do you mean buy 'shim'?
Look in the second picture I posted of the flat piece of metal laying on the ground beside the starter. The TT flywheel is about 8mm larger in diameter than the NA flywheel so you have to "shim" out the starter half that distance for the starter and flywheel gears to mesh properly.

NMZXTT
07-19-2005, 06:58 PM
people do it both ways...i believe that you had too but i also knwo there are people who havent. sorry to burst your bubble...
Meh, whatever... If you ever do a TT conversion you will find out... And you didn't burst my bubble... :rofl:

So after this bit of mis-information I decided to go look at the first post of this thread and "critique". :sly: :eek7:

#1. Before you do ANYTHING to the car, disconnect and remove the battery. Once you jack the car up, place the car on solid jackstands in the correct locations (see service manual for locations).

#2. Do not install your intercooler plumbing and A/C condenser before installing the engine/transmission. The risk of damage to them is very great while lowering the engine/tranny unit back into place.

#3. Change out as much of the rubber hoses that are a total pain in the A$$ when the engine is in place BEFORE you install it. If you are keeping EGR, replace it with new, and clean the connecting pipes out thoroughly. Replace the PCV's. All of this maintenance is simple with the motor on the stand.

#4. You are going to need the OEM recirc valves or aftermarket BOV's. These were not on the list. The turbos absolutely have to have these.

#5. If you replace the engine mounts, replace the transmission mount.

#6. Drain the oil out of the transmission BEFORE unbolting it from the engine. Unless you like having a couple of quarts of oil on you, on the floor, and all around you. Ignore this point if you love the smell of oilsorb clay and ATF or gear lube, or have an excess amount of shop rags you need to use.

#7. Before you install the new motor, disconnect the steering shaft at the u-joint. The driver's side turbo will thank you.

i heard a while back that the N/A transmission wasn't a good idea if you plan on making some decent power with the TT engine, but Z specialist shops (like Z1 motorsports) say they have never seen anything that would confirm that the N/A transmission is weaker and they do indeed use the N/A transmission when doing a swap.
That is because they are the same unit except for the bellhousing size and the output shaft diameter. All of the internal are exactly the same.

That should do it for now. Not that I am trying to "burst your bubble" :smokin: , but I HATE mis-information, especially the kind that could get somebody hurt...

probehtr300
07-19-2005, 10:25 PM
maybe the differance in some people requiring grinding the bell housing and some not is, maybe nissan slightly changed the design from year to year, maybe after 93 it changed or something like that ??

k3smostwanted
07-19-2005, 10:28 PM
Meh, whatever... If you ever do a TT conversion you will find out... And you didn't burst my bubble... :rofl:

uh oh...i get to have a little fun it seems to be...i love when people get their panties in a bunch and decide that they will try to "out-smart" someone by replacing their brain with a bloomed ego. im sure most of us have learned that most things can be completed in more than 1 different way, as did i back when i was a young tot. i am completing the conversion right now and have gotten past just about everything you have mentioned. let me re-correct your statements and explain why...now shall we continue. if you proceed to use childish behavior to presume that you are bursting my bubble, i suggest in maturing or doing some research before speaking.

to avoid confusion i will refer to you as "Obnoxiously Large Ego" in the following post. if you feel violated or ashamed in any way...i have completed my task and will go on with my job, to write a basic outline of what a Twin Turbo swap will consist of.


#2. Do not install your intercooler plumbing and A/C condenser before installing the engine/transmission. The risk of damage to them is very great while lowering the engine/tranny unit back into place.

how do you run the risk of damaging the AC condensor or intercooler piping before installing the motor? first the AC condensor sits in front of the radiator, if you are damaging this while dropping the motor back in place...you are obviously not putting he motor in the correct place. if damaging the piping that weaves in the front support beam and out behind the front bumper, you have another serious problem.


#3. Change out as much of the rubber hoses that are a total pain in the A$$ when the engine is in place BEFORE you install it. If you are keeping EGR, replace it with new, and clean the connecting pipes out thoroughly. Replace the PCV's. All of this maintenance is simple with the motor on the stand.

and this is a must when doing a Twin Turbo swap? this is just something that would be advised...not a must. big difference...but yes i can agree with you, taking care of any wiring that may have been clipped, hoses that may been cut, and replacment of hard to reach items should be placed while the engine is out of the car. but it is not a must and it is not part of completiong a twin turbo swap, in which this thread is entitled.


#4. You are going to need the OEM recirc valves or aftermarket BOV's. These were not on the list. The turbos absolutely have to have these.

actually your pretty wrong...the turbos absolutely do NOT have to have these but they would be advised. i will direct you towards this statement in case your pathetic little mind ran into problems finishing the rest of the post.


Keep in mind, I have probably forgotten a million things because I did not type this while I was doing the swap. I took the time to type this out after I did most things and before I did some things. I will edit it when necessary and when I have realized I forgot something or decide to add more details. This is more or less a guideline to help answer quite a few questions before you post a new thread. So, before you open a new thread you can ask more detailed questions instead of “What is involved in swapping in a Twin Turbo motor?” or “What parts do I need and How expensive is it to do?”


#5. If you replace the engine mounts, replace the transmission mount.

why would someone do this when their transmission mount is in perfect conidition??? your transmission mount does not have 600+lbs of iron and metal resting on top of it, it simply gives the drivetrain some flex when movement occurs. this keeps very harsh shifts and sudden changes in the drivetrain to a minimum. i would not advise someone to waste their money on a new transmission mount unless they plan to upgrade to a urethane or solid part.

#6. Drain the oil out of the transmission BEFORE unbolting it from the engine. Unless you like having a couple of quarts of oil on you, on the floor, and all around you. Ignore this point if you love the smell of oilsorb clay and ATF or gear lube, or have an excess amount of shop rags you need to use.
this is something i forgot to add, but a little common sense would serve just as well instead of me typing it. im sure i left out plenty of common sense things out in my post, as i do not feel it necessary for me to walk a 12 year old through the process of a Twin Turbo swap. must people that are considering this swap have some sort of besic understaning of problem solving and cars.

BTW: i did not have a problem with my automatic but i can see where it could come into play.


#7. Before you install the new motor, disconnect the steering shaft at the u-joint. The driver's side turbo will thank you.

once again not a must, but if you are having problems with guiding the engine in evenly, you may want to do this. my motor went in fairly easy and the steering shaft did not become in a hindurence for me.


That is because they are the same unit except for the bellhousing size and the output shaft diameter. All of the internal are exactly the same.

That should do it for now. Not that I am trying to "burst your bubble" :smokin: , but I HATE mis-information, especially the kind that could get somebody hurt...


so im guessing that you have taken apart the transmission and measured and sent a sample to a laboratory, to determine that all of the gears are made out of the same metal, and you came to the conclusion that they were identical??? i doubt it, and if you did...get a life.

that statement about the manual tranmission differences and such...is coming from Robert at Z1 motorsports. the leading business in Twin Turbo Conversions and such. they and many other people have stated numerous amount of times that the N/A 5-speed transmission does not seem to take well to bigger HP numbers but it seems to work fine for a lightly modified Twin Turbo. also, do some hunting around at TwinTurbo.net. there are many people over there like you (except for the overwhelmigly large ego) that have done a conversion and used their N/A transmission and simply had the shim made and it worked fine for them. as i am sure you didnt work for Nissan during the run of 90-96 300zx and if you did, i bet you had no involvement of what steps had been taken, so i advise you to do some research or keep your mouth shut if you do not KNOW. i personally am just repeating information that i have researched and what i have told you is completely true. i have read that people have done the conversion your way and i have read that people ahve done the conversion the way i am speaking of. if you have a problem, take it up with people i am speaking of.

to wrap this up, for someone "who HATE[s] mis-information" i suggest you start by not using it yourself. i have not seen where i have told mis information but if you find it necessary to point out, im sure i will be happy to remove it for you or edit it. as i am also a person that does not like to be mis-guided so i try to answer people's questions to the best of my ability. but i also try to keep my ego from interferring with my way of thinking and problem solving.

probehtr300
07-19-2005, 11:09 PM
owned

ZedEx
07-19-2005, 11:55 PM
Guys... This thread is on the edge of being closed.

I don't want to single anyone out, but chill. Seeming as there are only two people arguing in this thread, it should make it quite clear who I'm directing this towards.

Keep this civil, and keep it intelligent... The obnoxious replies end HERE. If they continue, this thread is gone.

Sorry, but I have to play Moderator here.

-Wes

k3smostwanted
07-20-2005, 12:16 AM
Guys... This thread is on the edge of being closed.

I don't want to single anyone out, but chill. Seeming as there are only two people arguing in this thread, it should make it quite clear who I'm directing this towards.

Keep this civil, and keep it intelligent... The obnoxious replies end HERE. If they continue, this thread is gone.

Sorry, but I have to play Moderator here.

-Wes
:lol: lighten up a little mod...we are just having some fun in an argumentative way. i know i am totally chilled and not upset at all...correcting an individual when they happen to be misguided does not get my temper boiling. i was just replying to his post...

anyways, if you feel it gets out of hand...feel free to do whatever you find necessary.

ZedEx
07-20-2005, 12:28 AM
Well I'm just telling you guys, keep it from getting out of hand. Because I, as the other members, are very interested in your project.

So I'm just letting you guys know... Don't take it personal.

-Wes

jam4shi
07-20-2005, 04:03 PM
First of all let me start by saying that I have read and learned from most of the people on this forum and I respect everyones opinion on what to do...whether I've tried them or not.

Like I said before... Great post K3
I don't really mean to put fire onto the flame but we all are 'Z literate' people here right, could you imagine how hard it would be to work on an engine (especially a TT swap) if there was only one step by step way of doing it without the variation of style and performance. If this was the case then every Z owner would hate the Z and forums wouldn't even exist. All questions would be answered by "hey stupid didn't you read the book?" Nissan made the cars very advanced and unique especially when they figured out how much smarter they were than us Americans-Technology wise.

So for every Z owner out there just know that you may or may not be doing the exact SAME steps for several reasons that have not been clarified so lets list them for the near sighted...

You may or may not...

1.) Understand exactly what someone else has done or will do (you only see pictures not really videos)
2.) have done a full thorough research on the Z itself and not just your Z
3.) Respect or agree with what others have done with their Z
4.) Know that the Zed forum isn't just a forum, its a reference not a talkshow...
5.) Know the real costs of what your doing, heres a rule - you pay for all hp gains from the engine to the wheels!!!
6.) Know that their Z will tear a hole in yours

This is just to try to keep the attitude down around here as I have noticed...

E Honda
09-28-2005, 11:32 PM
Sup bitches,,,,,,hehe....Had to stop in and check on you ladies over here......Hows everyone doing?
K3 you got that car swapped over and running yet?
I seen you are a bull over here in the Z forum now. Congrats. Writing novels and stuff..lol.......Anyhow......hey to everyone.....Sup Gringo?........Tootles.....lol.

E.Honda..

ZedEx
09-28-2005, 11:58 PM
Gringo... Hahahahahaha. :lol:

-Wes

k3smostwanted
09-30-2005, 04:52 AM
K3 you got that car swapped over and running yet?
I seen you are a bull over here in the Z forum now. Congrats.


hey thanks man...how is life? any new pics of that civic yet? just about completed? missing the Twin Turbo?

and no the car isnt running yet but the swap is just about complete. trust me, there will be videos and pictures posted once running again.

Zgringo: lets just say...he was forced into early retirement. :dunno:

E Honda
10-01-2005, 04:44 PM
hey thanks man...how is life? any new pics of that civic yet? just about completed? missing the Twin Turbo?

and no the car isnt running yet but the swap is just about complete. trust me, there will be videos and pictures posted once running again.

Zgringo: lets just say...he was forced into early retirement. :dunno:
What's the hap with Gringo and retirement?........The way it sounded he was already doing that and just messin with cars........Don't tell me he was a fraud.........

As for the civic...........I bit off a big project and tore it down and am doing a RHD conversion..

Keep up the good work on the Z.......Maybe,.........Just maybe you can play with the Civic when ya get done...... :lol2:

Or maybe I can dust off the Vette........ :evillol:

updated civic pix (http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/t_maxx_central/album?.dir=%2F1834)

New pix at the bottom.

E.Honda

ZedEx
10-01-2005, 05:23 PM
Lets take this to Off-Topic please.

-Wes

DemonZX
11-09-2006, 05:06 PM
I wish I had this before my Z got totaled . . . That stupid bitch!:banghead: ...sorry!:disappoin

Mike9812121298
01-11-2007, 10:19 AM
hey thanks for the info, ive been looking for something to help me out. i have a 90 n/a auto, and i found a wrecked tt manaul. is it much work to change over to manaul? also if i have the tt whole car, is there anything else i would need to do the install or does it pretty much just change over? thanks for any info u could give me.

speedemon727
01-15-2007, 05:09 PM
how much would the NA to TT swap cost total. if i decided to do it myself or if i had it done professionally

k3smostwanted
01-16-2007, 04:29 PM
how much would the NA to TT swap cost total. if i decided to do it myself or if i had it done professionally

as little as $3500 or so yourself. as large as $10k+ if done professionally.

vectorspecialist
05-22-2007, 08:25 AM
if i bought say a 1990 300zx with the engine had already been removed and it says make offer:
1) what would b a fair offer?
2) what would the cost b to do a "conversion" like this if there's no engine installed?

Broke_as_****
05-24-2007, 04:03 AM
Depending on the condition, "complete-ness" of the car and how much Zs are going for in your area, a $1000-$3000 is probably in order.

Still going to have the cost of the clip, which is like going to be $2500-$3000 at least. Provided it's in good shape and you don't have to buy too many replacement parts you could skate away for $5000 or less doing the work yourself.

vectorspecialist
05-24-2007, 08:59 AM
all tt 300's are going for 14g or so in my area, the only car in the class that doesnt is the supra.
the car i was interested in is an auto tho. the add said needs engine(i assumed,wrong, that there was no engine at all)but the it has an engine. but from what the guy said the timing got screwed up, right after a complete engine rebuild. the body however was in mint condition, and the only thing missing on the interior was the radio, which he had sitting in the garage

feerfacktor
06-02-2007, 07:25 AM
I just purchased a 1990 manual na minus engine and want to do the tt clip swap and just wanted to know if any mods can get a clip cheaper then 3k and what engine bay modifications besides the radiator bracket moving are required. Thanks in advance

runner4tt
07-26-2009, 09:45 AM
what is most complete source for info on n/a to tt conversion

Andrewhuffman
09-09-2009, 11:14 PM
check TwinTurbo.net They have a great write up.

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