replacing front pads on 94 Accord- how to !!
budster2
06-21-2005, 10:25 AM
Trying to change front pads on 94 Accord- any place to find detailed instructions?? Hope so! thanks
Igovert500
06-21-2005, 03:38 PM
Don't have a link that is specific to Accords, but I can give you general instructions.
1) Put the car on level surface, pull ebrake up, loosen front lug nuts, jack up front end.
2) Take off front wheels. Usual common sense applies, use jackstands or blocks...something solid so it doesn't fall on you.
3) Do one set at a time, that way if you don't remember how to put something back together, you can look at the other side's brakes.
4) Find the bolts that hold the calipers on...usually 2 on the back of the calipers. Remove the bottom one, and only loosen the top one. For more access, the best thing to do is for the front wheels, turn the wheels to the left for the driver's side and the right when you do the passenger side.
These can be stuck on pretty damn tight, so use some muscle, possibly a metal pipe for extra leverage. And make sure you are turning the right direction, remember they are facing the opposite direction you are. Be very careful not to slip and hurt any brake lines or that rubber bleeder nipple on the back.
5) Once the bolt is removed and the top one significantly loosened, you need to flip the caliper up off the rotor. This may be easy, or it may be difficult. If difficult, you may wish to place a piece of wood against the caliper, and hit the piece of wood with a hammer to break the caliper loose.
6) Once it is loosened rotate it upwards using the top caliper mounting bolt as the pivot point. Then using a metal wire clothing hanger suspend it from your suspension, so as not to put stress or harsh bends on the brake lines.
7) Now here is what I'm not entirely sure about. Generally, if you change pads, they have put grooves in the rotors...if left in there, the grooves can cause quicker pad wear, squealing brakes, etc. So it is a good idea to either swap in new rotors as well, or get your rotors turned (resurfaced).
Generally if you call your local brake shops, especially chains like Midas, they will turn rotors for $7-10 a piece. They just shave a bit off the rotor to make it even again.
You need to get your rotors off to do this, and I'm not sure if Honda still used that damn special nut in 94. Hopefully someone can answer that for you. If they do still have them, then you will need to buy a special tool or borrow it from someone.
Anyway, get the rotors off and turned. Then take the pads/old shims out of the caliper. NOw you want to 'push' the caliper back down to accomodate the extra width of the new pads. I use a C clamp in such a way that it's pushing on the EDGE of the piston. Be careful not to dent the piston, though. Also make sure to take the cap off your brake fluid tank, so the pressure has somewhere to go.
Then just put it all back together, use anti-squeal brake lub as directed. Tighten down the brake fluid cap. Bleeding your brakes is also a good idea, but not mandatory. Just use the search feature if you need directions for that.
Lastly, before you take the car out, pump the brakes a few times to get pressure back in the system. Then just drive carefully/semi-passively and allow your new pads to 'settle in' correctly.
1) Put the car on level surface, pull ebrake up, loosen front lug nuts, jack up front end.
2) Take off front wheels. Usual common sense applies, use jackstands or blocks...something solid so it doesn't fall on you.
3) Do one set at a time, that way if you don't remember how to put something back together, you can look at the other side's brakes.
4) Find the bolts that hold the calipers on...usually 2 on the back of the calipers. Remove the bottom one, and only loosen the top one. For more access, the best thing to do is for the front wheels, turn the wheels to the left for the driver's side and the right when you do the passenger side.
These can be stuck on pretty damn tight, so use some muscle, possibly a metal pipe for extra leverage. And make sure you are turning the right direction, remember they are facing the opposite direction you are. Be very careful not to slip and hurt any brake lines or that rubber bleeder nipple on the back.
5) Once the bolt is removed and the top one significantly loosened, you need to flip the caliper up off the rotor. This may be easy, or it may be difficult. If difficult, you may wish to place a piece of wood against the caliper, and hit the piece of wood with a hammer to break the caliper loose.
6) Once it is loosened rotate it upwards using the top caliper mounting bolt as the pivot point. Then using a metal wire clothing hanger suspend it from your suspension, so as not to put stress or harsh bends on the brake lines.
7) Now here is what I'm not entirely sure about. Generally, if you change pads, they have put grooves in the rotors...if left in there, the grooves can cause quicker pad wear, squealing brakes, etc. So it is a good idea to either swap in new rotors as well, or get your rotors turned (resurfaced).
Generally if you call your local brake shops, especially chains like Midas, they will turn rotors for $7-10 a piece. They just shave a bit off the rotor to make it even again.
You need to get your rotors off to do this, and I'm not sure if Honda still used that damn special nut in 94. Hopefully someone can answer that for you. If they do still have them, then you will need to buy a special tool or borrow it from someone.
Anyway, get the rotors off and turned. Then take the pads/old shims out of the caliper. NOw you want to 'push' the caliper back down to accomodate the extra width of the new pads. I use a C clamp in such a way that it's pushing on the EDGE of the piston. Be careful not to dent the piston, though. Also make sure to take the cap off your brake fluid tank, so the pressure has somewhere to go.
Then just put it all back together, use anti-squeal brake lub as directed. Tighten down the brake fluid cap. Bleeding your brakes is also a good idea, but not mandatory. Just use the search feature if you need directions for that.
Lastly, before you take the car out, pump the brakes a few times to get pressure back in the system. Then just drive carefully/semi-passively and allow your new pads to 'settle in' correctly.
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