I don't know where to start. Basically, I am new to the tuning world and need help. I have a stock 1992 Civic HB 1.6i Vetec. I am looking to squeeze more horses out of it, so I need advice on turbocharging.

If anybody with knowledge on the subject could provide me with a list of all parts for a basic installation, I would be very grateful. If you could just list every individual part, and some brand names that are good, that would be great!

I just want a basic setup to begin, with potential to build in the future. First of all, is it safe to run 9 or 10psi on stock motor parts? I intend on running it at this level for a while just to break it in.

The car is a completely stock 1992 Civic as I said. It has 63,000 miles on it and is very reliable. I aim to keep it this way - I want a car I can use everyday, which is reliable, but the power is there for situations when I need it, i.e. when some fool wants to race me! Ha Ha.

I intended on buying a full kit, but I have been warned not to, as some parts that are needed for a full installation are not included. I want to buy each part individually, so it is a complete custom setup. If anyone could just advise me on different types of manifolds, wastegates, blow-off-valves etc.

Could anyone also give me information on fuelling and ECU etc? Thanks alot. Peace out and keep tuning!

since your new, just buy a greddy kit and put it on, it comes with everything u need.

No one on here is going to do all your leg work for you, you have to do your own research and then when you have a specific question come back and we will help you. I would suggest buying a complete kit since you are new to turbos or if you looking for a better set up than a kit can offer you need to research for about a year until you are ready to boost your Honda. Another thing you need to set your goals in terms of horsepower not psi.

Search.

OK I'll try again. I have found a kit with the following - Garrett T3 turbo with oil cooled internals, 35mm external wastegate with adjustable boost controlled spring 3.63 to 19psi includes gaskets, flanges and accessories. RFL blow-off-valve, 12" x 24" x 4" intercooler with 4" race core for cooling efficiency. Custom made B-series manifold made to be used with 35mm external wastegate. High grade stainless steel to dissipate heat. Downpipe with o2 bung, 90 degree elbow, flanges, gaskets, flange for BOV, flange kit for wastegate, 10 various turbo fittings/barbs/hoses/clamps/tbar.

The kit is £1000 and the company provide a fitting service. I have been in touch with the company and they have said they will provide the kit and a full fitting service for £1600. They have also agreed to provide a full ECU and a re-map to ensure correct fuel/air ratio for an extra £500. I have opted to add a Blitz SBC sequential boost controller for an additional £285, which can handle up to 36.75 psi. I am also replacing the RFL BOV with a vehicle specific HKS super sequential BOV with fitting kit for another £119. So in total it will be pushing £2000. Roughly $3648 for everything!

GOOD OR NOT? I have been advised to add a Walbro 255 litres per hour fuel pump to aid fuelling. I have been told that if I want to run at higher boost, I will have to reinforce the bottom end. I intend to purchase SRP forged pistons at 9:1 compression ratio and Eagle H-Beam connecting rods when I get the cash sorted. Will I need a new clutch kit when I up the boost? I also wanted to eventually buy new camshaft, CAM gears, underdrive pulleys, Nology hot wires, Iridium spark plugs etc. I also plan on having it ported and polished and gas flowed heads. I have been told if I have the top package done I can get an additional 100hp. I aim for a minimum of 200bhp with the standard turbo setup. Been told to run it between 6 and 10psi based on type of usage.

Please hit me back with replies, cos I wanna mek sure it's dun right first time. The guy who owns the company has performed alot of turbo conversions to loads of different types of Civic. Been doin it for about 13 years.

what company makes the kit?

what company makes the kit?

It is a company known as Import Tuning - the actual turbo is a Garret T3. They import parts from America due to severe shortage of decent parts in the UK. The racing scene here is nowhere near as big man.

Yo forget everything I have just said. Read the article on "ssautochrome" and I have realised after looking closer at the bigger pic of the turbo, it says XS Power on the lip. I simply do not have enough money to be messin round with repairs if the manifold or turbo crack etc. I heard the quality of build is shit! Gunna luk towards sumthing like Greddy or Rev Hard. Wot u fink? Or Drag Gen 3. Peace

It is a company known as Import Tuning - the actual turbo is a Garret T3. They import parts from America due to severe shortage of decent parts in the UK. The racing scene here is nowhere near as big man.

The company is just a front - they are selling the kit on behalf of "ssautochrome." That's jus the name of their workshop. Thanks for the info peeps. Glad I didn't go ahead with it.

Although I have read mixed articles about the quality of build. Sum say had it for years with no probs, sum say cracked in first week! But I am not willing to risk the cash. Peace out.

that's what I was getting at I figured for that price that it was ssautocrap.

that's what I was getting at I figured for that price that it was ssautocrap.

Can you direct me to any good kits or websites? By the way I have been looking into fuel management. What is the way to go Hondata or AEM? Is it easy enough to install a turbo kit on your own?

turbo on a vtec soundl like a great idea, but you'll have to change the cam profile so when the high rpm profile comes in there is not so much overlap, otherwise the incoming air and fuel is blown out of the exhaust. go ahead and get a water cooled turbo, the difference in price is negligable compared to replacing an air cooled turbo every two or three years. if you are thinking about big boost numbers then you may want to consider dished pistons. have fun

turbo on a vtec soundl like a great idea, but you'll have to change the cam profile so when the high rpm profile comes in there is not so much overlap, otherwise the incoming air is blown out of the exhaust. have fun
WRONG!! Please don't give out info unless you know what you are talking about. This is yet another myth in the Honda community. vtec cams work great with boost. In fact there have been many test that show with type r cams and cam gears you can gain a substantial amount of power over less aggressive cams. Do some research please; everyone is finding that on Honda motors more power is made by dialing in overlap not out.
http://www.evans-tuning.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1744&highlight=type+r+cams+b18c5+cams

Can you direct me to any good kits or websites? By the way I have been looking into fuel management. What is the way to go Hondata or AEM? Is it easy enough to install a turbo kit on your own?
My personal recommendation would be www.full-race.com, but they are a little pricey. If you are looking for something good for a little less money check out, www.one-fab.com , www.lovefabinc.com , www.neukin.com all very good companies. Just remember you get what you pay for. As far as EMS I would find a very good tuner in your area and then ask them which system they prefer to work with.

overlap is not condusive to turbo performance. the high rpm profile on a vtec engine has more lift, duration, and overlap to achieve greater performance from a naturaly aspirated engine, but turbos do not do well with great ammounts of overlap.

turbo on a vtec soundl like a great idea, but you'll have to change the cam profile so when the high rpm profile comes in there is not so much overlap, otherwise the incoming air and fuel is blown out of the exhaust. go ahead and get a water cooled turbo, the difference in price is negligable compared to replacing an air cooled turbo every two or three years. if you are thinking about big boost numbers then you may want to consider dished pistons. have fun

No. Everything you said in this post is completely wrong.

A) Need to dial out overlap? Yeah, right. Go read this (http://www.evans-tuning.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1623) post, then come and talk about overlap. He's been seeing gains of 30 WHP at peak and 10 WHP all across the board by increasing overlap with cam gears.

B) They're actually oil cooled, not air cooled turbos, but since you have a bevy of real world experience you knew that :rolleyes: Almost all Semis and Diesel pickup trucks run turbos that are only oil cooled, and run much higher boost levels and EGT's than he will be running on his B16. 'Nuff said.

C) Dished pistons in a B16 result in very low compression, Wiseco's in an otherwise stock B16 give you approx. 7.60:1 compression, JE's are about 7.8:1. A flat top piston results in right around 9:1 compression which is what you want for the street.

Here's a little table I made for a friend who was looking to turbocharge his B16 hatch.

http://img92.echo.cx/img92/476/turbocost1ap.jpg

That's everything you need, save for paying to tune someone to tune it if you so choose.

overlap is not condusive to turbo performance. the high rpm profile on a vtec engine has more lift, duration, and overlap to achieve greater performance from a naturaly aspirated engine, but turbos do not do well with great ammounts of overlap.
did you even click on the link I posted?
http://www.evans-tuning.com/forum/v...cams+b18c5+cams

Ownage on two fronts. The door's that way.

Ownage on two fronts. The door's that way.
:wave:

yes, i read the posting on the link you posted.
i realise that turbos without a waterjacket around the center cartrige uses oil as a cooling medium, but they are often refered to as being air cooled. water cooled turbos last longer on cars, peroid. oil cooled turbos live a long time on transit vehicles because they aren't used on frequent short runs. they are not subject to as much thermal cycling, and fewer startup/ shut down cycles. if you were to subject an oil cooled turbo and a water cooled turbo to the same treatment (especially on a passenger car) the oil cooled turbo would fail first. i may relent somewhat in the area of valve overlap, but i'd like to see more that a thread from a forum as proof. especally when someone posts contrary experience in the thread you use as an illustration (for the first link posted). at least the second link provided some explaination on why it works rather than just a graph.

yes, i read the posting on the link you posted.
i realise that turbos without a waterjacket around the center cartrige uses oil as a cooling medium, but they are often refered to as being air cooled. water cooled turbos last longer on cars, peroid. oil cooled turbos live a long time on transit vehicles because they aren't used on frequent short runs. they are not subject to as much thermal cycling, and fewer startup/ shut down cycles. if you were to subject an oil cooled turbo and a water cooled turbo to the same treatment (especially on a passenger car) the oil cooled turbo would fail first.

Oil cooled turbos are used on EVERYTHING.

Almost all ford 2.3L turbo motors? Yep, oil cooled.
Grand National/T-Type's? Yep, oil cooled.
WRX's? Yep, oil cooled.
Almost all light diesel pickups? Yep, oil cooled.

Boohoo. I don't care if an oil cooled turbo will fail first, if people with grand nationals are still running their stock oil cooled turbos from the mid 80's they're good enough for my Honda.

i may relent somewhat in the area of valve overlap, but i'd like to see more that a thread from a forum as proof. especally when someone posts contrary experience in the thread you use as an illustration (for the first link posted). at least the second link provided some explaination on why it works rather than just a graph.

Guess what? Those two posts are from the exact same forum, from the exact same guy. Go read up on there, he posts a lot of cars that see 30+ WHP gains, all from dialing more overlap into the cams. He's an engineer and tuned more hondas than you can shake a stick at.

Wow, another post showing you're completely wrong.

http://www.evans-tuning.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=2341

GSR vs. B16 cams. GSR cams have a good amount more overlap than B16 cams. GSR cams shit kicked the B16 cams.

Yo, no offense but everyone is confusin me with all this talk of 'overlap.' Could someone explain it to me? Thanks a tonne to turboEKhatch - yo man that list is really helpful. Thanks dude. Peace out 2 everyone, keep the advice comin, much appreciated!!

Overlap is when both the intake and the exhaust valves are open. People who have no understanding camshafts assume overlap is a bad thing on a turbocharged motor because you have a good amount of backpressure on the exhaust side of a motor. Overlap increases the VE (Volumetric Efficiency, VE is expressed as a percentage and tells you how much air the motor is consuming compared to the theoretical maximum, and is a good indicator of performance) of the motor especially at higher RPM's and lets it make more power. As you can see from that graph the additional duration and lift from the GSR camshafts provided healthy gains all across the board.

No. Everything you said in this post is completely wrong.

A) Need to dial out overlap? Yeah, right. Go read this (http://www.evans-tuning.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1623) post, then come and talk about overlap. He's been seeing gains of 30 WHP at peak and 10 WHP all across the board by increasing overlap with cam gears.

B) They're actually oil cooled, not air cooled turbos, but since you have a bevy of real world experience you knew that :rolleyes: Almost all Semis and Diesel pickup trucks run turbos that are only oil cooled, and run much higher boost levels and EGT's than he will be running on his B16. 'Nuff said.

C) Dished pistons in a B16 result in very low compression, Wiseco's in an otherwise stock B16 give you approx. 7.60:1 compression, JE's are about 7.8:1. A flat top piston results in right around 9:1 compression which is what you want for the street.

Here's a little table I made for a friend who was looking to turbocharge his B16 hatch.

http://img92.echo.cx/img92/476/turbocost1ap.jpg

That's everything you need, save for paying to tune someone to tune it if you so choose.

Quick question m8 - are all of the above items compatible with one another without any alterations being made? How many coupler/reducers/stainless clamps do I need?