1996 Park Avenue - No Air Blowing Out Of Vents


digitalsaw
06-14-2005, 05:33 AM
Strange But True
This problem began as sparatic but has gotten worse to the point it happens all the time. What is happening is that I get no air blowing out of the vents on my 96' Park Avenue. I live in Florida where you fry without AC so what happens is the air from the AC comes out of the windshielf defrost vents or the floor but NOT the vents. I have tried it on Automatic and on manual and even when I put it on "Mid" nothing comes out. :disappoin
Is this a vacuum problem or something more extreme. I would like to get some thoughts before I take it to the dealer so I can be somewhat appraised of the situation.
Thanks for any advice folks.

aarcuda
06-14-2005, 07:24 AM
there is a vacuum problem. look under the hood and you should see a vacuum line coming off the back of the intake, going into a small vacuum check valve and into the fure wall near the cetner of the engine. if the hose is off or broken, no vacuum and the air goes to the windshield.

HotZ28
06-14-2005, 12:24 PM
You have a bad air mixer unit under the dash. (Actuator)

feyxuk
12-25-2005, 10:59 PM
You have a bad diphragam in the air mixer unit under the dash.

Since I recently have similar trouble with my 1994 PAU:
Wher under the dash is this mixer uni, how do I get to it?

Greetings.

HotZ28
12-26-2005, 10:49 AM
The air mix motor (actuator) is located behind the glove box. Remove the glove box and look behind it to see something that looks like the pic below;
http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/500/297374AC_actuator21.jpg

The actuator can be purchased for about 37 bucks at Advanced Auto parts. The stealer dealer get's about 100 + for them.

You also have another one located under the dash above the floor exit vent and above the gas pedal, they do not fail as often as the one above, it looks like this;
http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/503/297374AC_actuator.jpg

HotZ28
12-26-2005, 11:22 AM
Below is a pic of the Buick HVAC system FYI;

http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/500/297374HVAC.jpg

feyxuk
12-26-2005, 07:23 PM
Below is a pic of the Buick HVAC system FYI;

http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/500/297374HVAC.jpg
For now: You have blown me away.
That was more than I was hoping for.
Please stay on this channel or post your cell number for 24/7 support.

Many Thanks and greetings.

Garfield2
07-07-2006, 09:44 PM
Interesting!! I was about to post a similar question and did a search first and LOW AND BEHOLD...:wink: I have just bought a Buick 1996 PA for a decent price. Has about 148,000 miles on it, and runs great and all the electronic seems very good on it as well, EXCEPT this little thing. I noticed it on the way to the Michigan Licensing Bureau (out here called Secretary of State) Office. I noticed it blowing out the defroster and if I put it to the floor, I can feel it coming out on the floor, but not a whisper coming out of the vents.

Blower is working well.

Would Auto-zone have such an actuator?

feyxuk
07-08-2006, 01:04 AM
Interesting!! I was about to post a similar question and did a search first and LOW AND BEHOLD...:wink: I have just bought a Buick 1996 PA for a decent price. Has about 148,000 miles on it, and runs great and all the electronic seems very good on it as well, EXCEPT this little thing. I noticed it on the way to the Michigan Licensing Bureau (out here called Secretary of State) Office. I noticed it blowing out the defroster and if I put it to the floor, I can feel it coming out on the floor, but not a whisper coming out of the vents.

Blower is working well.

Would Auto-zone have such an actuator?

I have not worked on it yet, so I don't know.
Let me know what you find out, and how it goes.

Garfield2
07-09-2006, 05:28 PM
I took the glove box out of the way and started the car. Using the AC I noticed that as I went form winshield -to- Mid - to Floor, that the upper arm that has the threaded metal piece, attaching to the plastic arm did not move. I pulled up on the metal piece and it came out of the holder and I was able to move the flap freely. It did not change the mid vents though, so I suspect that the main piece HAS to be able to move as well to change the valves? Correct? Looks like a real bugger to remove and replace!:frown:

BTW... I've checked with Advance Auto Parts at the Holland MI store and they can't find what this thing is. Is there another name that the actuator goes by? Is there also a part number? They say if they have a part number they are sure they can get it in.

HotZ28
07-09-2006, 09:52 PM
I took the glove box out of the way and started the car. Using the AC I noticed that as I went form winshield -to- Mid - to Floor, that the upper arm that has the threaded metal piece, attaching to the plastic arm did not move. I pulled up on the metal piece and it came out of the holder and I was able to move the flap freely. It did not change the mid vents though, so I suspect that the main piece HAS to be able to move as well to change the valves? Correct? Looks like a real bugger to remove and replace!:frown:

BTW... I've checked with Advance Auto Parts at the Holland MI store and they can't find what this thing is. Is there another name that the actuator goes by? Is there also a part number? They say if they have a part number they are sure they can get it in.

Actually, the one you are looking at is the air mix actuator behind the glove box. It has nothing to do with airflow distribution. It either allows or blocks air from passing through the heater core, thereby controlling the temperature of the air.

If you remove the driver's side hush panel and look above the gas pedal, you will see the bi-level valve “vacuum actuator”. There will be two vacuum lines, one white and the other light green, going to it. The white one is easier to remove and just happens to be for the dash vent setting. With engine running, disconnect the line and listen for a hissing sound and/or put your finger over the end of the line to check for vacuum. If there is vacuum present then you can assume the vacuum actuator is faulty. If there is no vacuum present, then the problem is more than likely the programmer or the one discussed in the link below.

http://www.imcool.com/articles/aircondition/fix_vacuum_line.htm

Garfield2
07-10-2006, 12:24 AM
Thanks for the link!! I looked at the one over by the gas pedal on the drivers side. There are the 2 hoses as you described. I took the white one off and there is no hissing or vaccuum from it. Also it differs from the picture above in that it is round and seems to attach into the side of the box in a sort of tri-lock fitting. Mosquitoes are bad at this time of night, but suffice to say, there is no vaccuum from the white, with the setting at mid on the control. There is vaccum to the whole unit as it does shift from windshield to floor and when you have the glove box out and look there is an actuator arm that moves in and out (slides left into the box) that moves when the changes are made to the air output.

Garfield2
07-15-2006, 07:38 PM
I took the glove box down and got a 7mm deep well socket and took off that middle nut on that vacuum attachment. I then pulled the main connector (swear there are about 40 pin/wires there!!) off and took out one of the 7mm screws that held the programmer. I tried to wiggle the "round" group of vacuum hoses off and they seem 'clipped' in there and it's about 95 and 800% humidity outside today, and I said.... well anyway, I put the connector back on the programmer and put the nut in the glove box and put the 7mm screw back in place. Better time to work on it. I had changed the oil and went to a nearby town for some groceries and low and behold when I started up the vents started blowing cold air. I increased the fan speed and pretty soon I was scraping frost off my glasses.!! :iceslolan Well, not quite, but I swear you could hang beef in the back seat area!:naughty: Suffice to say, it's now blowing cold air out the vents.

I was going to come in here and ask about what other nut/screw I needed to take out to take the programmer out to work on it. Perhaps by moving the vacuum lines I unkinked one?:thumbsup:

HotZ28
07-15-2006, 07:59 PM
Way to go Vern, wow, that is good news!! Don't touch anything, as long as you can "hang beef in the back seat"! :rofl: Just enjoy the recent change in climate!!:iceslolan

imidazol97
07-16-2006, 06:46 AM
I took the glove box down and got a 7mm deep well socket and took off that middle nut on that vacuum attachment. I then pulled the main connector (swear there are about 40 pin/wires there!!) off and took out one of the 7mm screws that held the programmer. I tried to wiggle the "round" group of vacuum hoses off and they seem 'clipped' in there and it's about 95 and 800% humidity outside today, and I said.... well anyway, I put the connector back on the programmer and put the nut in the glove box and put the 7mm screw back in place. Better time to work on it. I had changed the oil and went to a nearby town for some groceries and low and behold when I started up the vents started blowing cold air. I increased the fan speed and pretty soon I was scraping frost off my glasses.!! :iceslolan Well, not quite, but I swear you could hang beef in the back seat area!:naughty: Suffice to say, it's now blowing cold air out the vents.

I was going to come in here and ask about what other nut/screw I needed to take out to take the programmer out to work on it. Perhaps by moving the vacuum lines I unkinked one?:thumbsup:

I hope it keeps the line open for you. I have done the vacuum line repair on my own car. There are rubber nipples inside the connector that collapse under vacuum. If it does it again, just take out the programmer, slide the 7 tube connector out of the corner of the box, make a list of what color vacuum line inside programmer matches with what color outside, cut away the connector, and reconnect the lines with 1/8 inch gas line from NAPA- about an inch and a half is long enough to make a sleeve to reconnect the internal line with the external line.

It worked for me just like the imcool article says.

Garfield2
07-16-2006, 07:37 AM
But, that 7 tube connector??? with the nut off it still seems like there is a holding clip on the outside of the programmer. Would you like a pic of it? By taking off the center nut won't the 7 tube connector just pull off if you keep wiggling it and pulling?

BTW, what other 7mm screw/attachment holds the programmer in (besides the one directly above the multi-pin connector) ?

To take out a programmer is it better to remove the bottom hush panel AND the glove box assembly, inlcuding the 5 screws that hold it onto the fram mounting?

HotZ28
07-16-2006, 11:23 AM
The vacuum connector is held on by "ears/latches" on each side. You will need to pop those back while pulling on the connector. Pay particular attention to the "blue" vacuum line. If I remember correctly, that is the one that will be causing your problem. It seems to get blocked for some reason.:screwy:
Here is a link that may help. Go to the specific section on Buick:
GM Bonneville/Eighty Eight/LeSabre 1986-1999 | Chassis Electrical (http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/17/f9/21/0900823d8017f921.jsp)

aarcuda
07-17-2006, 07:03 AM
i have the same problem in my 95 buick. took the vacuum connector off and there is a soft nipple that hisses. I will need to attempt this repair soon. does the programmer come out easy or do I need some yoga contortionists to get to some hidden screws under the dash?

Garfield2
07-17-2006, 06:14 PM
there is a soft nipple that hisses...

My wife said her's just leaked...but cleared up after teething:iceslolan

imidazol97
07-17-2006, 08:23 PM
But, that 7 tube connector??? with the nut off it still seems like there is a holding clip on the outside of the programmer. Would you like a pic of it? By taking off the center nut won't the 7 tube connector just pull off if you keep wiggling it and pulling?

BTW, what other 7mm screw/attachment holds the programmer in (besides the one directly above the multi-pin connector) ?

To take out a programmer is it better to remove the bottom hush panel AND the glove box assembly, inlcuding the 5 screws that hold it onto the fram mounting?

The programmer b ox was held in by a screw at the top and one at the bottom. With the glove box out and the hush panel off, those were easy to get to. Then after the programmer is loose, the lid snaps off and the 7 tube connectr slides in and out of the box; it's held in with slots that fit over the box.

I could take a picture but don't know how to post it here. I think I've got the old programmer box and the connector.

HotZ28
07-17-2006, 09:41 PM
i have the same problem in my 95 buick. took the vacuum connector off and there is a soft nipple that hisses. I will need to attempt this repair soon. does the programmer come out easy or do I need some yoga contortionists to get to some hidden screws under the dash?
If you plan to remove the programmer, do not forget to remove the two wire connector on the top, going to the air mix valve. Also, remove the large wiring connector. If I remember correctly, there is a lever on the bottom of the programmer you may need to drop off.:screwy:

The programmer vacuum connector has a couple of tabs on it that you need to pry back. Once the tabs are clear, just keep wiggling the connector and eventually, it will come out. The connector has a tab inside the box that is hard to describe, however, once your start wiggling, you will see how it is configured, and then you can pull the connector out. :naughty:

If your restriction or leak seems to be in the connector itself, you would be better off just to cut out and eliminate the connector, then reattach each line using 1/8” id vacuum hose. The connector is not a listed part from GM, so your only choices are; bypass the connector, get a programmer from a salvage yard, or buy a new programmer. Of course, it is much cheaper to bypass it! :grinyes:

The vacuum lines inside the programmer may be a different color from those on the outside. On the programmer side, cut the vacuum lines about 1/2” from the connector. Do the same on the other side, and save the connector for reference to match the hoses to the right colors. Once all vacuum lines are reconnected together, reinstall the programmer and enjoy!:iceslolan

aarcuda
07-18-2006, 06:59 AM
ya, i saw the link that showed how to do it and i figured I would connect the plastic tubes inside the box to the plastic tubes on the outside using rubber hose. i bought about 3 feet of it already trying to figure out where my vacuum problem is (couldnt tell if it was a leaky line or a leaky actuator).

BTW, for everyones info, the vacuum resevoir on these cars have a problem where they crack along an edge and leak. My 95's vacuum resevoir leaked so I got another from a junk car. that one didnt leak when I put it on but now, three months later, its leaking from the same place. Im buying a new one today. it must be a common problem since ive had 2 leak. And it leaks more so when its hot out than when its cool. the material must expand and open the crack more or vacuum is more critical when its hot- im not sure- i do know that when it gets up over 85 degrees, my vacumm issues start to show. at 100 degrees outside air, the car just barely makes it up a hill.

Garfield2
07-18-2006, 10:34 PM
What about using some of that hi temp silicone gasket sealer like that blue or copper colored stuff and putting a bead right down the side where you are having air leak issues? Looks like it's more a "glueing 2 halves together" issue than anything else. Gasket sealant is silcone, pliable and high temp so should be able to move to expand and contracts according to temps.

aarcuda
07-19-2006, 06:53 AM
the tank is two piece but its not leaking from the seam. the sides of the tank )perpendicular to the firewall) flanges out 90 degrees (parallel) to the firewall and its in that crease where thw cracks develop.

The back half of the tank seals to the front half but its not the seam that leaks. You can se small micro crack there if you look closely.

I thought about the silicon but then I said the heck with it, for $25, i'll buy a new on. pn 25553225 if anyone is interested.

Garfield2
07-19-2006, 12:29 PM
Where is this tank located?

aarcuda
07-19-2006, 12:46 PM
its on the firewall just left of the master cylinder/booster (looking from the front).

if you follow the vacuum line out from behind the intake manifold, it goes thru a oneway check valve and then into the tank. the output of the tank goes to the vacuum controls for the heater/ac.

MWW
11-16-2006, 01:12 AM
Strange But True
This problem began as sparatic but has gotten worse to the point it happens all the time. What is happening is that I get no air blowing out of the vents on my 96' Park Avenue. I live in Florida where you fry without AC so what happens is the air from the AC comes out of the windshielf defrost vents or the floor but NOT the vents. I have tried it on Automatic and on manual and even when I put it on "Mid" nothing comes out. :disappoin
Is this a vacuum problem or something more extreme. I would like to get some thoughts before I take it to the dealer so I can be somewhat appraised of the situation.
Thanks for any advice folks.

Most likely the vacuum line separated from the vacuum reservoir. Same exact symptom on my 92, reconnected the vacuum line and all was OK.

HotZ28
11-16-2006, 10:20 AM
Posting in Closed or Outdated Threads (http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=635164)
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