first oil analysis after 12K with synthetic


todds21
05-31-2005, 06:20 PM
These are the results I recieved after running Amsoil 10w30 for the past 9 months and 12,000 miles. I have always been real good about changing the dino every 3K and scheduled maintinence. I switched to Amsoil for the extended drain intervals and superior protection. I live in Texas and it gets HOT. I don't know what all the numbers mean, but they said no corrective action was necessary and the oil could have stayed longer. I have changed the filters out at 3 month intervals. Anyone have any feedback on what the numbers mean?

http://img45.echo.cx/img45/5108/oilanalysis9js.th.jpg (http://img45.echo.cx/my.php?image=oilanalysis9js.jpg)

surferfletch
05-31-2005, 08:43 PM
I'm really interested in this. Who did the analysis?

Would someone familiar with interpreting the results comment as to whether or not they agree with an even longer interval? If I were convinced it wouldn't damage my enigne, I would use synthetic at greater intervals for the cost savings and environmental reasons. All analysis I've seen that was independent of the manufacturer, however, has been to the contrary.

anthonyn
05-31-2005, 09:54 PM
These are the results I recieved after running Amsoil 10w30 for the past 9 months and 12,000 miles. I have always been real good about changing the dino every 3K and scheduled maintinence. I switched to Amsoil for the extended drain intervals and superior protection. I live in Texas and it gets HOT. I don't know what all the numbers mean, but they said no corrective action was necessary and the oil could have stayed longer. I have changed the filters out at 3 month intervals. Anyone have any feedback on what the numbers mean?

http://img45.echo.cx/img45/5108/oilanalysis9js.th.jpg (http://img45.echo.cx/my.php?image=oilanalysis9js.jpg)


Post your results in the 'used oil analysis' forum on BOBISTHEOILGUY.COM. The folks there will be happy to analyze and critique it for you.

rodeo02
06-01-2005, 08:48 AM
I second the BITOG recommendation. The guys over there would probably freak about the 'elevated' lead & copper readings which typically means bearing wear, and the 'high' silicon which is typcially dirt from a leaking intake or raw air injestion. You really need the total base number (TBN) reading to know if this oil still had life left in it. IMHO- a used oil analysis is a waste for a passenger vehicle unless: 1) there is tons of data available for your specific engine running that specific oil. You need base line data to trend from. 2) You operate the vehicle under the EXACT same conditions, using the same fuel and same oil 100% of the time, 3) You are trying to test for a small coolant leak or a specific problem. Big industrial machines with 1000gal oil sumps? Oil analysis is a necessity!
G/luck
Joel

todds21
06-01-2005, 09:27 AM
Thanks for the info on BOBISTHEOILGUY, those guys have a wealth of info. If anyone is interested on the thread over there....


http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=3&t=002623

Ramblin Fever
06-01-2005, 11:06 AM
Gotta give it to you; I'd be nervous going the synthetic route after 100K miles and jumping from 3K mile oil changes to 12,000 miles.

Were you able to find the TBN reading?

I'm shocked that your 97 uses oil, typically that's a 98+yrs issue. But you say your's has done it since new?

How much oil does it burn in 1K miles?

What kind of oil and filter were you using in the past?

todds21
06-01-2005, 12:06 PM
I ran Castrol 10w40 for the first 100K with fram filters. It really only seems to consume oil when I am doing alot of highway miles with the rpm's sitting at 3K and above. I can sometimes not use any oil for a 1000 mile interval and if I take a road trip I can use a qt in 1000 miles. It definately seems to be the type of driving.

amigo-2k
06-01-2005, 12:39 PM
I always spray out my PCV with carb cleaner every oil change, and before a road trip (even if it is 200 miles).

I wonder if we could put a breather on it (in 2 spots of course).

Tom01Rodeo
06-03-2005, 03:50 AM
Which Amsoil are you running? I'm using the series 2000 which I put in 1 year ago and 20,000 miles. Getting ready to change it out. Its nice not to have to change oil so often, just a new filter at 6 months.

todds21
06-03-2005, 06:50 AM
I am running the SAE 10W-30

http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/atm.aspx

I need to run an auto-rx treatment to clean out some of the residues from running dino for 100K. So far I have been real pleased with the Amsoil, my rodeo really seems to run well on it. Its not cheap but to each their own. The real test is gonna be if the extended drain intervals are going to work.

df2000
06-05-2005, 12:07 PM
Synth oil has some cleaning effect.
I think you have to run one more interval with Amsoil, say 6 mo and test it again. And any good filter will be OK at least for 6 mo/ 6k mi, no need to change in 3k.

suvguy
06-06-2005, 01:27 PM
Use the Amsoil engine flush when you do your next change. Read the instructions on the can. Get the Amsoil oil filter and change it every 6 months or 12,500 miles or when you change your oil. If you burn a lot of oil, I would suggest moving down to their XL7500 series of oil as it has lower levels of phosphorus (an API oil). It's a group III oil, but still good. I run that in mine sicne I burn about a quart every 1000 miles of highway driving. With that oil (5W-30) and the Amsoil filter, change it every 6 months or 7500 miles.

City stop and go driving will kill the oil fairly quick, which is evident with the low TBN value for only 12,000 miles. The silicoin content is high. You have a vacuum leak or your filter is not sealing or filtering well, or you have a leak between the filter and the throttle body. Silicon is used by some oils as part of the anti-foam additive, but not in that quanity shown. Iron is somewhat high as wll as the lead and copper. Should have done an analysis of the last oil before switching to the synthetic to get a baseline.

It is also recommended that if you plan to run the full term of 1 year or 25,000 miles, you should install a bypass filter to remove the smaller particles as that is what causes the majority of the wear on long drain intervals.

suvguy

rodeo02
06-06-2005, 03:01 PM
Suvguy, I am far from an oil expert, but why would you keep using an expensive group III synthetic if you go thru 1qt/1000 miles?? That's a waste of a good oil out the tailpipe. You'd be better off running a $1-$2/qt conventional oil for that application.
G/luck
Joel

suvguy
06-06-2005, 06:14 PM
Suvguy, I am far from an oil expert, but why would you keep using an expensive group III synthetic if you go thru 1qt/1000 miles?? That's a waste of a good oil out the tailpipe. You'd be better off running a $1-$2/qt conventional oil for that application.
G/luck
Joel


Amsoil XL 5W-30 is only about $3.95 a quart. What's regular oil these days..about $1.90-$2.00? It's a little more expensive per oil change, and with the lovely 3.2L DOHC Isuzu V6 consuption of around 1qt per 1000 highway miles (less in city driving) I still do it. Bought the Rodeo with around 63,000 miles on the clock about a year and a half ago, it now has a little over 88,000 miles on it. I want the motor to stay tight and last quite a bit longert before I need to sell it or rebuild it. Regular oils can't handle the heat as well as the synthetics available today and the synthetics do a much better job of keeping things clean. I actually come out about the same in cost in the long run as I don't do a complete oil and filter change with the XL oil until 6 months or 7500 miles. Power steering, tranny, rear end, and front wheel bearing grease are all Amsoil products. 22MPG average at 75 MPH with AC on 95% of the time, two adults and two kids, plus the cargo area packed on a recent 3900 mile vacation from Ohio to Corpus Christi, TX (174.2 gallons of gas).

suvguy

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