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96 JGC DIY trans rebuild in process.


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motocip
05-31-2005, 06:11 PM
My jeep has become a test ground for my mechanical abilities. Did the cam, exhaust, A/C evaporator, and more. Now I am rebuilding the 44RE auto trans after 145,000 miles.

After doing all the above I just could not appreciate all the hard work with a tired trans, so here I go. Had a bad 1-2 slip, trans shop recommended a rebuild.

I was able to get the trans out of the car in about 3-4 hours. I work at a comfortable pace so this may seem fast or slow to some people. I did not use a transmission jack because I do not have one. I removed the transfer case first, not too heavy, then came the trans, heavy, do not recommend this one alone. I will admit I am a bit nervous about getting it back in but I have time to strategize. I am working off the floor.

I bought a book from ATSG for about $16.00 on ebay and it covers tear down, inspection, and reassembly. I think it is a good book but is not for the inexperienced. Sometimes I don't know what a component is called and not all steps are clear so it takes some time to research.

I have the transmission completely torn down to the case now. I used some purple power and a pressure washer to clean the case. I blew it out good and I am starting to reassemble. Cleanliness is stressed ALOT in the manual so I am trying my best. My friends think I am crazy but I think the advantage trans shops have is that most people are intimidated by a trans. So far I think I will have success.

I bought a rebuild kit on ebay that contains all the clutch plates, steels, one band, gaskets, and o-rings. I paid $136.00 for it and I was pretty happy with the kit when I got it.

Will keep you posted as I make progress.

PS: will be buying a shift kit to install also.Total investment is about $200.00 so far.

trannyman52
05-31-2005, 11:38 PM
make sure the shift kit has the up-grade mannual valve,,,

Cam7
06-01-2005, 04:40 AM
when you put it back in use a jack its hard to roll a Trans on your chest and try to bench press it in. Ive done it like that years ago hard to do. I use a floor jack and even a small one will work if you are carefull. Go luck on the rebuild and you might want to get a torque wrench that measures in. lbs. for the bands.

fredjacksonsan
06-01-2005, 11:16 AM
Good deal! Big job but well worth it. :thumbsup:

Hang in there, looking forward to the updates.

tech_ed
06-07-2005, 12:11 PM
I can't wait to read about how you handle dissembling the clutch packs and reassembling them without cutting the rubber seals on the clutch drum...
I completly rebuilt a TH-400 Saginaw auto tranny years ago...I had no special tools and built a clutch pack compressor out of a 2-ton bottle jack, some 2 X 4s and a specially cut piece of PVC pipe (so I could get the clip rings back onto the shaft!)
I added one extra clutch pad per pack for extra firm shifts...put the new tranny in my 72 442 and had no second gear. A tear down showed that I had cut the lip of the rubber seal for the 2nd gear pack. I have yet to rebuild the tranny...I haven't figured out a fool proof way to assemble the packs without damaging the seal!
Here is the best tip you can get for building an automatic tranny...vasoline jelly. Lots of it! it helps hold things in place while you manipulate two clutch packs, one band and a spider gear shaft...
Ed
web/gadget guru

motocip
06-08-2005, 09:13 AM
Thank you for your replies.

I ended up ordering a forward clutch piston and a shift kit and am STILL waiting for it to show up in the mail. Upon inspection I noticed a slight ridge on the ID of the piston where it rides on the inner seal. I called Transmission Exchange Company and they said they will ship me a good used one for $35.00. He assured me that it would be a good one, guess I will find out.The shift kit is by Transgo and cost about $90.00. My total investment is now about $350.00.

I will admit, this thing is intimidating and I wonder if I am in over my head. I can not figure out how it works! Most things you look at for a while and it makes sense, but I cannot comprehend how an automatic tranny works. Oh well, I keep plugging along. I can see that the seals in the clutch packs are going to be a challenge. ANY HELP WITH THIS WOULD BE APPRECIATED. I will be sure to use some lubrication, Vaseline? and try not to tear them. That is the one thing that I am most concerned about. Will keep you posted when I make some progress. It has been on hold for about a week now waiting for parts.

SteveB05
06-08-2005, 10:45 AM
You'll do fine. Keep it CLEAN, pay close attention to clearances and torque specs and it'll work fine.

My first was a Chrysler 904 in a 1978 Plymouth arrow. This was an interesting set up with a 2.6L Mitsubishi engine in front of a Chrysler trans. Anyway, re-built that, with a 5 disk foreward pack (4 was stock) and a mild B&M kit and low an behold, it would chirp 205-75R14s on the 1-2 shift...I was pleased :jump3:

tech_ed
06-08-2005, 10:50 AM
Well, if it's any consolation, it is rumored that the inventor of the automatic transmission had to be institutionalized because he went insane...
Let me tell you how I managed to get the seals installed with a minimal amount of tearing.
I went to a sheet steel warehouse (this one makes heating ducts) and purchased a small roll of shim-steel. This came in a sheet about 18 inches long by 7 inches wide. The critical part is that it was only .05 inches thick. I formed the steel into a loop and held it together with vice grips and situated it inside the clutch drum...to create a kind of "funnel". Greased it up with valsoline (petrolium jelly, not the vapor rub) and slid the assembled pack and seal inside the shim...The tough part is that you need to have at least 2 more hands. One to hold the drum, one to hold the funnel, one to hold the clutch pack and one to move the clutches around so that they all line up to fit into the gooves (you'll see what I mean when you get it apart) Using this method, I only cut one seal (the TH-400 had 3 I believe)
One of the most useful things to work on transmissions is a solid work space that holds the transmission securely. I used a wooden saw horse with extensions to hold th tail shaft and bell housing.
Good luck
Ed
web/gadget guru

RunMonkeyRun
06-10-2005, 05:23 PM
Sorry a little of topic, did you have to rip the dash out in order to change the a/c evaporator? Sorry I jsut haven't had a chance to check it out.

motocip
06-12-2005, 08:09 PM
Update. I was able to get all the clutch packs installed last night. The heavy spring that holds the forward clutch piston in was not that bad nor was the seal. The clutch piston went right in with a light coat of vaseline. I used light pressure as I rotated the piston back and forth and it slid in nicely. I used two c clamp style vise grips to compress the heavy clutch spring and the retaining ring went right on. Watch out for the spring shooting across the shop when the vise grips slip off before you get the ring on. I hope the rest goes this well. Will keep you posted.

Runmonkeyrun: the entire dash DOES have to come out to do the a/c evaporator. I ordered my evaprator from a company in Arizona for about $110.00. Note that there are two styles depending on the manufacture date of your Jeep. This job is not for the impatient type. It took me about a week, working a little each night to get it done. Warning, You must be patient and a little brave because it looks like you just ruined your car when the dash is all out. I had the dealer do my wifes 97 JGC a couple of years ago and they charged me $700.00. I think it is worth your time, and while you are in there you should do the heater core just for insurance.

ramairgto72
06-15-2005, 03:57 AM
LOL man oh man,

Back in 96 I went to the book store to look at a few trans rebuild books, I look at the one with the Chevy Chevell on it, the TH400 Book, It was'nt that bad till I got to the part about the clutch pack and useing the "mics" for the end play on the main shaft, and I felt a little overwhelmed, but wanting to do it, but the military was calling and I didnt have time to do it. by the way I have a TH475 with the long tail, man the driveshaft on that GTO is short.

I looked at the price of haveing it rebuilt and for $275 (I had the TCI master kit) and I got a HD sprag and a deep 4x4 pan. It was Dennys Transmission in Erie PA if you find yourself needing a rebuild he got great prices, and included a free speed-o gear for my 4:11s.

I do have a TH350 that needs it, I will do it myself one of these days, but the only reason is for doing it is the "I did that".

I did however re program my govener and installed a level 3 B&M, it makes you want to check your seat bolts.

STEVE do you have a pic of your "3-Row All metal w/Electric Fans" I have the factory HD + extra HD cooling package on my 5.9, but I would like to see what yours is about.

ramairgto72
06-15-2005, 04:01 AM
Sorry for crappy spelling it's 4 am here LOL

motocip
06-29-2005, 11:06 PM
PROJECT COMPLETE!!

I was able to install and test drive today 6-29-05 and I will say I am happy with the results. My total investment was about $430.00 which included:

1-Overhaul kit with steels. $135.00
1-Used clutch piston. $40.00
1-Transgo Shift kit $85.00
1- Rebuilt convertor $97.00
13 quarts tranny fluid $32.00
1-pump gear set $18.00
1- drum $26.00

All prices include tax and shipping. I can be frugal and shopped around alot to keep the cost down and the quality as high as feasable. Some items bought on ebay and some local.

I would say that this can be done by someone with better than average mechanical skills. Some steps, like compressing the direct clutch spring, take a bit of enginuity. I bought no special tools and was able to make my own out of stuff I had around the garage. You must have patience, have a clean work environment, and be able to have your vehicle out of service for some time. It took me about 5 weeks, mostly waiting for parts through the mail.

The Jeep shifts nice and firm, the kit gives you two options. One is RV and towing and the other is race and show off. I chose show off. My neighbor and friends all thought I was crazy, but once they went for a ride they congratulated me. If I can do it, then maybe you can to.

Thanks for you interest.

Mike

ramairgto72
06-30-2005, 04:15 AM
Dose the "Show Off" kit bark the tires?
If it does what Transfer case/engine do you have?

fredjacksonsan
06-30-2005, 07:45 AM
Awesome savings over the trannie shop, I'm sure! Well done.

tech_ed
06-30-2005, 01:35 PM
glad to hear that it went well...I was a little put off after I did my TH400...But reading your success makes me wonder if my '89 Wagoneer LTD (Cherokee version) would benefit from similar treatment.
Sevaral questions though...
Removing the transmission...How did you do that? I assume a floor jack...but any specifics? Elevating the Jeep...did you use some kind of lift, or car ramps? or...?
Part numbers...I looked (although not in any depth) for trans kits and didn't find anything on a casual search.
Can you supply part numbers and product names for the:
1) overhal kit
2) Transgo Shift kit

Heck, I may go with the Transgo kit anyway...

Nice job...btw. Too bad you weren't able to get pics...(or did you?)
Ed
web/gadget guru


[QUOTE=motocip]PROJECT COMPLETE!!

I was able to install and test drive today 6-29-05 and I will say I am happy with the results. My total investment was about $390.00 which included:

1-Overhaul kit with steels. $135.00
1-Used clutch piston. $40.00
1-Transgo Shift kit $85.00
1- Rebuilt convertor $97.00
13 quarts tranny fluid $32.00

motocip
07-01-2005, 06:58 AM
I have the 5.2 V-8 and np249 quadratrac transfere case. The tires don't chirp, although it would have been cool, but the shift is noticably improved. The full time 4 wheel drive might be taking away from the ability to bark the tires. I have done some other mods to the engine also. I will get back with part numbers and info soon. Unfortunately I did not take any photos, next time I will.

SteveB05
07-01-2005, 09:59 AM
Now you need to pick up a NV-242JHD so you can bark the rears ;)

ramairgto72
07-02-2005, 02:49 AM
You know i'm not sure If I want to remove my 249, it's kinda saved me a few times.

The 242, I know it has a full time 4x4 option, but does it really work as good or the same as the 249? will I kill the clutch in it with my 360?

I don't know, I think that replaceing the VC might be a good idea when the time comes.
Does anybody know if the NV207 is a bolt in to a 98 5.9?

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