Security Chip In Ignition Key


slipperysleuth
05-31-2005, 10:05 AM
How do ya disable the chip in the key so the car will start with a key that has no chip????
Also... is ther a place where I can get a supercharger for a better price than 600 bucks???
Thanks

neo307
06-22-2005, 02:23 AM
Your car key has one of 10 different resister values. Use a meter on your key to see what the resister value is , then buy a resister with that value and place it between the two wires that connect once you insert the key .

I haven't done this but I read about it when I was looking for information about replacement keys .

Hope this helps , Kevin

DrJay
07-04-2005, 10:57 PM
It's called the Passkey system and there are a few bypass systems out there you can try. I haven't tested them myself so I can't say much else.

I might be able to help you with the supercharger but it depends on what year we're talking about.

65chevy
07-14-2005, 02:57 PM
The thing with the resistor does work, i'm a mechanic and i've done it to my own car and a few others

HotZ28
07-14-2005, 05:28 PM
VATS Malfunction Diagnosis and Bypass

One of the more common problems with the VATS security is caused by a simple bad connection in the ignition cylinder. The problems start when the wires leading from the contacts in the cylinder to the VATS module develop an intermittent contact or a complete break. This can cause sudden failure to crank either intermittently or permanently. Due to the nature of the system, manual transmission cars can't even be push started.

VATS Malfunction Diagnosis and Bypass
Diagnosis:
The very first thing to do is to watch the Security light under your gauges. If the system is working properly it will light up for a few seconds and go out. If it remains lit go through the following steps to find the problem. The first step is to check the resistance of the chip in the key with a multimeter. Write this value down you'll need it later. Next, remove the panel under the dash and look for a pair of yellow or orange wires coming from the steering column and leading to a connector a short distance away. Unplug the connector and with the key in the ignition, measure the resistance at the wires leading from the steering column. The reading should match that of the chip in your key. While the reading might match while the key is in the off position, it will probably change when the key is turned forward. If this happens, the problem is in the ignition cylinder or the wires leading to it. At this point there are two options: Buy a new ignition cylinder and have a new key made for about a hundred dollars or bypass the system for less than a dollar.
Bypass:
To bypass the system you'll need to buy a resistor with a value matching that of your keys chip at any local electronics store. The easiest way to install this resistor is to cut the wires leading into the column about a foot from the connector. Take this section of wire, strip the ends and solder the resistor in place. Take this section of wire and resistor and simply plug back into the connector under the dash. The VATS module is now fooled into thinking that there is always the correct key in the ignition. Although this does render the security benefits of the VATS system useless, if increased security is desired, the resistor can simply be unplugged, leaving the car disabled until it is reinstalled.
Pellet Code Resistance
1. 402
2. 523
3. 681
4. 887
5. 1130
6. 1470
7. 1870
8. 2370
9. 3010
10. 3740
11. 4750
12. 6040
13. 7500
14. There is also a code 14 & 15. Extrapolation from the above chart will reveal those. :devil:

HDDP
05-25-2007, 09:22 PM
Your bypass post was extremely detailed, but my circumstances are quite a bit different...

I recently purchased a 1998 Suburban K2500 at an insurance auction for the specific reason of towing my race car to-and-from the track. The Suburban had been stolen and then recovered and had an aftermarket security system / remote start, etc. but when it was recovered, the ignition lock had been destroyed, the wiring under the dash and the aftermarket security system had been ripped-up, and the key is not even one with a pellet...

Fully aware of this damage before I bid on the car, I used a pair of jumper wires to jump the leads of the starter relay in the power distribution box under the hood... The car fired-up and ran briefly until, what I assume was the fuel cut-out at the injectors. Needless to say, I won the bid and had to have the car towed to my house.

I have already removed the dash, cluster, etc. to try to get the thing to fire-up and it repeatedly dies after a few seconds... bare in mind the only way I can get it to turn over is by jumping the starter relay leads...

Since the dash is already removed and the lock is destroyed, Is there any way I can completely bypass the VATS / PASSLOCK without having the fuel cut-out, so I can at least drive the thing to a shop and work on it properly...

BNaylor
05-25-2007, 11:21 PM
Your bypass post was extremely detailed, but my circumstances are quite a bit different...

I recently purchased a 1998 Suburban K2500 at an insurance auction for the specific reason of towing my race car to-and-from the track. The Suburban had been stolen and then recovered and had an aftermarket security system / remote start, etc. but when it was recovered, the ignition lock had been destroyed, the wiring under the dash and the aftermarket security system had been ripped-up, and the key is not even one with a pellet...

Fully aware of this damage before I bid on the car, I used a pair of jumper wires to jump the leads of the starter relay in the power distribution box under the hood... The car fired-up and ran briefly until, what I assume was the fuel cut-out at the injectors. Needless to say, I won the bid and had to have the car towed to my house.

I have already removed the dash, cluster, etc. to try to get the thing to fire-up and it repeatedly dies after a few seconds... bare in mind the only way I can get it to turn over is by jumping the starter relay leads...

Since the dash is already removed and the lock is destroyed, Is there any way I can completely bypass the VATS / PASSLOCK without having the fuel cut-out, so I can at least drive the thing to a shop and work on it properly...

Welcome to AF.

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