So, it's been raining here in Massachusetts for nearly a two weeks now, and this morning, Memorial Day, started out b-e-a-u-tiful! I put the windows down, drove to work, and enjoyed the sunshine. Oddly, for some reason, the Driver's Side Rear Window control switch, (which has always worked in the past), didn't work, but as I was loading things in the back seat anyways, I just put it down from there and didn't think much about it. When I get to work, I go to put the windows up, and BAM, not only will the Front Driver's Side main switch not work, but also Rear Driver's Side is out to. As the window was only down halfway, I tapped the control switch down to make sure that works, which it does, as the window lowers more. I tap up, nothing.

I then proceed to grumble, as it's about to rain, and I back my car under an overhang at work, as I have no garage to park in. I proceed to rip the Rear door panels off to gain access to both switchs, (Driver's side and Passanger, hoping I can 'switch' the switchs, and that's all it is), to no avail, as that switch does the same thing, down, but no up.

So, I know it's not the switch. I did a quick wire check, and all seems fine, but, what I did find interesting is that if I looked at the electrical connections on the switch on the now defunct window side, when pressed down, I can see this small electrical zap as the circuit is made and the "window down" command is given. But, when pressed up, a) the switch feels much less responsive, as if it's not even sending the signal, and b) there's no electric zap seen inside the switch, leading me to believe a) is correct, and no signal is being sent.

Also, if the power window motor was to go bad, wouldn't it no be able to do up or down? As it goes down fine, I was figuring that I could eliminate that as a failure option, along with the original switch.

So, if anyone has any ideas, please respond, as currently I have a big piece of painters drop-cloth plastics duct taped to my perfect paintjob. :( Also, I'm more than a little learly in todays world to let that go for to long, but am a bit strapped on time and money right now if I needed to get it professional repaired for at least 1-2 weeks.

And, whilst I'm at it, I figured I'd just throw this out there. My Master Door Loc switch on the Driver's Side hasn't worked since I bought the car two years ago. Anyone have any clues on that one either? I heard that these mid-'90's Jeeps had Power option and Trans. issues, but I can't seem to find anyone saying how to fix them, (Power option issues that is ;)

Well, thanks in advance if anyone can help. :)

Sounds like your window motor is burned out or going out. Try tapping on the motor with a rubber mallet while holding the switch and pull up on the window while working the switch. Got a few of them up like that temp fix. As for the master switch check the wirring before replacing the switch, a few have had broken wires.

High current draw devices like power window motors, power locks, power seats and rear defoggers all use a relay to route the power to the device. All the switch does is trigger the relay with a low current signal. The relay does all the rest. Unfortunatly, because of the hi current some of these devices requrire, and as they get older, they require more current...this can burn out the relay.
I don't know the specifics, but I would find the relay that controls the windows and the relay that controls the power door locks. You might find that this is your culprit!
Ed
web/gadget guru