98 Escort zx2 5 spd won't start

driving back from the store, no prior issues, car suddenly stalls out while going 45..I had just let off the gas to slow down, slightly depressed the gas pedal to get back up to 45, the instant I did, it stalled...would not restart, it will turn over tho, lights, radio, all that jazz works...a new fuel pump was put on back in summer of 03....already checked the fuses...fuel filter has been purchased looks as if the old one is in desperate need of changing, but due to the compact situation under the hood I have not gotten the filter on yet...no owner's manual...anyway I've been told to check for a buzzing sound when turning the key, just before the start up of car, I hear no buzzing..just a faint click. Any help here would be most appreciated. Keep in mind I'm a female, I don't know much about cars..this might help in any comments left for me...don't assume I know what ya mean without a bit of an explanation lol...oh I've also been told to check the timing belt...frankly I have no clue where the h#(* that is :)...oh..as for the fuel pump on off switch located in the trunk...does that need to be up or down? yes yes I know I am :screwy:

You are not crazy just a little vehically challenged!
The timing belt is located under the black cover on the front of the engine on the passenger side of the car. Based on your description of how the car acted I would say that is your problem. Being a ZX2 I think the belt change interval is more than 60K miles but I am not sure. If you broke the timing belt you may have done other damage to the car like bent valves or even broken cams due to this being an interference engine. (What that means is that the valves work in very close proximity to the pistons as they go up and down and if the belt breaks the valves will hit the pistons causing major damage to the valves.) To check the belt you can remove the cover with a couple of bolts and just look inside. If the belt is good it should cover both the cam drive sprockets and go all the way down to the crankshaft. It should also be tight. If you grab it and move it slightly you should be able to tell very quickly if it is broken.

As for the fuel pump, you can check it by lying close to the edge of the car and having someone turn the key on while you listen. If you hear a noise like something turning that is the pump coming on. As for the switch just go ahead and push it. If it is tripped you will reset it and the fuel pump should work again. These are inertia switches designed to shut the fuel pump off in an accident but they can trip sometimes if you hit a hard bump. If that fixes the car great! However, based on what you said I would bet that the timing belt broke.

I hope I haven't left anything out. If I did repost or send me a PM and I will try to help you further.

lol thanx...well I had a friend over last night who brought someone with him who supposedly knows about vehicles...although as soon as he heard what I said about the cars dying he said fuel pump....I mentioned checking the fuel injector or whatever that thing is (stick a pen in push the lil tab down and it shoots out gas)...so he tried...while I tried to start the car....it shot gas out each and every time...he believes it might be the spark plugs, one was loose I guess...and rather rusty..so he's sending me to pick up spark plugs and wires...says if that's not it we'll check the "core"...can't recall exactly what he called it ( small square thingamajig with 4 coil type plugs or something)...he laid next to the car while I turned the key listening for the pump...he didn't hear anything.....but says if the plugs aren't getting any juice the car won't work....so *shrugs* I still have no idea....hard to trust a guy with your car when you have to tell him what to check lmao..

If it is holding fuel pressure but there is no spark there are a couple of things to check first. Replacing the plugs will be a good idea given you description however they do not control the spark. The coil will put out spark but they don't go bad like you described. I would suggest that you have the crank position sensor replaced. They can die instantly and cause the problem as you indicated. I would also check the timing belt especially if you have high mileage and have never had it changed. Just ask the guy to check if for you, if he doesn't know where it is get him away from the car instantly as he will cause you more problems. On these particular cars there is what is called a cam position sensor. If the cams don't turn then there won't be any spark. Another case to check the timing belt!!!

Please let me know the outcome when you find the problem, if what I suggested doesn't fix the problem then write back and we will try something else.

I had a similar problem with my 98 zx2. It was random for over a year then one day it just would not start. Turned out some one had put an aftermarket "security system" on it. It involved 2 wires spliced into the ignition wire, a little box with a blinking light, 2 wires going to the fuse box and 4 wires all grounded to a bolt. It turns out the 2 wires from the ignition splice went back to that box and the entire current was going across a piece of metal in that box that was bout 0.125 wide and 0.020 thick. Over the years the current had burned a section and the juice just wasn't getting through. I know its a little off topic but the point is it could be anything. You should be able to check the timing belt my looking down the oil fill hole while someone cranks the engine. If nothing is moving while it is cranking the timing belt is gone.

Well I just decided to bite the bullet and had the car towed to the shop today...so I await their verdict lol..will post once I find out what the problem (s) is (are). I do appreciate the advice/suggestions...

Welp I just called the shop...he says it's the timing belt...I asked if there were other issues since I've heard when a timing belt goes it can cause other issues...he said the engines a non interference so that's not an issue...or some shit like that lol...says the timing belt itself isn't that much....gotta figure it's gonna cost a decent amount for labor tho as compact as the shit is in there....maybe he'll toss on that fuel filter sitting in the passenger seat for me lol...as well as put on at least one tire..if not 3 others lol and keep it under 900 bucks ha ha ha

Expect it to be anywhere from $200 to $300... if they are on top of things they will talk you into changing the water pump while they are at it... which you should let them do unless it has been replaced already for some other reason.

Expect it to be anywhere from $200 to $300... if they are on top of things they will talk you into changing the water pump while they are at it... which you should let them do unless it has been replaced already for some other reason.


Alright chalk it up to me being a blonde female...what does the water pump have to do with it? or in other words what's the necessity in replacing it now?

It will save you money later. Because of the location of the water pump and the fact that they have to remove practically everything else from the front of the engine, the logical thing to do is replace the water pump. This is the device that carries coolant throughout the engine to keep it cool during operation.

By changing it now it is a substantial labor savings since the parts that you need to remove to replace it are already off the engine. I agree with mightymoose22 now it the time to change it, it will save you a lot of money in the long run.

ok..makes sense. Thanx for the explanation, much appreciated:)

Well they've had the car since the 2nd...still not sure when the actual work is going to take place oi talk about annoying.