brake rotor removal

I have read in the past that removing the brake rotor on a 1999 toyota tacoma 2 wheel drive is as easy as pounding if off with a rubber mallet. Is this the only requirement for removal? I managed to remove the caliper, and I am still struggling to remove the rotor. Please provide detailled instructions as needed. Do I need to pound the rotor from the back or the front? etc.

Thanks for your replies!

is it 4wd? if so, yes, just pound it off.. i did mine last weekend and it took a little banging to get them off. hit from the inside of the rotor - the side that faces underneath the truck.

is it 4wd? if so, yes, just pound it off.. i did mine last weekend and it took a little banging to get them off. hit from the inside of the rotor - the side that faces underneath the truck.

mine is a 2 wheel drive.

On 2 wheel drive trucks you have to remove the front hubs and unbolt the rotor from the hub. Go to this on line 2003 workshop manual for drawings, your 99 Tacoma should be the same.

http://fsm.afraid.org/

Select volume II, scroll down to the following page.

Repair Manual##Suspension and Axle##Front Axle Hub (2WD)##Components

Using the diagram as a guide, Remove the grease cap, cotter pin, lock cap, retaining nut and claw washer. Slide the hub off. Remember the parts removal sequence. The rotor is fastened to the hub with 5 screws located in recessed areas between the wheel studs. Romove the five screws and replace the rotor. The screws should be torqued to 47 lb. ft. It's a good idea to use some blue Locktite on the rotor retaining bolts.

For installation instructions go to;
Repair Manual##Suspension and Axle##Front Axle Hub (2WD)##Installation

To adjust the bearing preload go to step 8. If you do not have the tools listed tighten the nut so there is a slight drag when turning the wheel. back the nut off until it is free and tighten to the next opening in the lock cap to insert the cotter pin. With a wheel mounted you should not feel any clunking when rocking the wheel top to bottom but the wheel should turn freely. It takes a little practice to get it right. Since you already have the caliper off I assume you can install it with no problem.

Good luck,

Clifton

[QUOTE=Flash75]On 2 wheel drive trucks you have to remove the front hubs and unbolt the rotor from the hub. Go to this on line 2003 workshop manual for drawings, your 99 Tacoma should be the same.

http://fsm.afraid.org/

Select volume II, scroll down to the following page.

Repair Manual##Suspension and Axle##Front Axle Hub (2WD)##Components

Using the diagram as a guide, Remove the grease cap, cotter pin, lock cap, retaining nut and claw washer. Slide the hub off. Remember the parts removal sequence. The rotor is fastened to the hub with 5 screws located in recessed areas between the wheel studs. Romove the five screws and replace the rotor. The screws should be torqued to 47 lb. ft. It's a good idea to use some blue Locktite on the rotor retaining bolts.

For installation instructions go to;
Repair Manual##Suspension and Axle##Front Axle Hub (2WD)##Installation

To adjust the bearing preload go to step 8. If you do not have the tools listed tighten the nut so there is a slight drag when turning the wheel. back the nut off until it is free and tighten to the next opening in the lock cap to insert the cotter pin. With a wheel mounted you should not feel any clunking when rocking the wheel top to bottom but the wheel should turn freely. It takes a little practice to get it right. Since you already have the caliper off I assume you can install it with no problem.

Good luck,

I received your message. My brake rotor does not have a dust cover like the one that the pdf file shows.

I don't believe this is the correct manual for the 1999 tacoma.
Any other ideas. Thanks again.

[QUOTE=futurevip][QUOTE=Flash75]On 2 wheel drive trucks you have to remove the front hubs and unbolt the rotor from the hub. Go to this on line 2003 workshop manual for drawings, your 99 Tacoma should be the same.

http://fsm.afraid.org/

Select volume II, scroll down to the following page.

Repair Manual##Suspension and Axle##Front Axle Hub (2WD)##Components

Using the diagram as a guide, Remove the grease cap, cotter pin, lock cap, retaining nut and claw washer. Slide the hub off. Remember the parts removal sequence. The rotor is fastened to the hub with 5 screws located in recessed areas between the wheel studs. Romove the five screws and replace the rotor. The screws should be torqued to 47 lb. ft. It's a good idea to use some blue Locktite on the rotor retaining bolts.

For installation instructions go to;
Repair Manual##Suspension and Axle##Front Axle Hub (2WD)##Installation

To adjust the bearing preload go to step 8. If you do not have the tools listed tighten the nut so there is a slight drag when turning the wheel. back the nut off until it is free and tighten to the next opening in the lock cap to insert the cotter pin. With a wheel mounted you should not feel any clunking when rocking the wheel top to bottom but the wheel should turn freely. It takes a little practice to get it right. Since you already have the caliper off I assume you can install it with no problem.

Good luck,

I received your message. My brake rotor does not have a dust cover like the one that the pdf file shows.

I don't believe this is the correct manual for the 1999 tacoma.
Any other ideas. Thanks again.

Ok. success. I removed the rotor with a rubber mallet. After a few strikes, out if came. Another problem. When I get ready to install the rotor, how does it press back on. I reversed the same procedure and the rotor now seems to stay loose. Do I have to press it back on?

[QUOTE=silvertaco4x4]is it 4wd? if so, yes, just pound it off.. i did mine last weekend and it took a little banging to get them off. hit from the inside of the rotor - the side that faces underneath the truck.

Yes, this worked for me too. How did you press it back on. Does the caliper with the brakes on and the tire secured, solve this problem? or do I have to figure a way to press it back on?

Thanks again!

I'm aware the manual isn't correct for a 99 but I assumed the brakes would be the same other than perhaps ABS hardware. Is your truck a Pre Runner?
If it is page SA 23 should be about the same as your truck.
Repair Manual##Suspension and Axle##Front Axle Hub (4WD and PreRunner)##Components

Sorry for the mix-up, please let me know if page SA 23 is right for your truck other than perhaps ABS.
All rotors I have seen that are secured by the wheel studs don't require pressing on they ususlly slip on without any problem or they are easily tapped on with a soft hammer. The wheel keeps the rotor in place.

Clifton

[QUOTE=Flash75]I'm aware the manual isn't correct for a 99 but I assumed the brakes would be the same other than perhaps ABS hardware. Is your truck a Pre Runner?
If it is page SA 23 should be about the same as your truck.
Repair Manual##Suspension and Axle##Front Axle Hub (4WD and PreRunner)##Components

Sorry for the mix-up, please let me know if page SA 23 is right for your truck other than perhaps ABS.
All rotors I have seen that are secured by the wheel studs don't require pressing on they ususlly slip on without any problem or they are easily tapped on with a soft hammer. The wheel keeps the rotor in place.

I saw the manual, but this does not apply to my 1999 toyota tacoma pre-runner. Where can I see an online manual for my truck? how did you get the url for this manual?

THe 2003 manual is the only Tacoma I have been able to find on the net. Many items on the trucks changed very little from 95.5 to

The 2003 manual is the only Tacoma manual I have been able to find on the net. If I locate any others I will list the information here. I found the 2003 manual several months ago while searching for some Tacoma information. Someone else has recently posted the URL for the 2003 manul in this forum.

Clifton

I just installed drilled/slotted brake rotors on my 2000 Prerunner (same brake system as 4x4), i had to pound the old rotor off from the inner side while rotating it so it will just fall right off. When installing the new one just push it all the way in and it will be tightend with the brakes when u bleed them, the wheel lugs will also help hold them in place.

[QUOTE=tacoma_dan]I just installed drilled/slotted brake rotors on my 2000 Prerunner (same brake system as 4x4), i had to pound the old rotor off from the inner side while rotating it so it will just fall right off. When installing the new one just push it all the way in and it will be tightend with the brakes when u bleed them, the wheel lugs will also help hold them in place.

Yes, you are right. I did just as you described and it worked just fine. Thanks for your feedback.

[

Yes, you are right. I did just as you described and it worked just fine. Thanks for your feedback.[/QUOTE]


No problem, if u need anything just let me know, cuz ive pretty repaired the whole car

[QUOTE=tacoma_dan][

Okay I have a problem with the bolts that hold the wheels. One of them is really badly stripped. Is it better to rethread or replace ? and how do you replace the bolt.

Always replace damaged wheel studs. You don'tsay if it is the front, I assume it is, remove the caliper and rotor. Drive out the damaged stud with a brass drift or some type or driver. Install the new stud by placing a stack of washers under a lug nut, and pull it into place with wrench. It's best to use an open lug nut and turn it over for this job. Always torque the lug nuts to specification when installing wheels to prevent fueure damage.

Clifton

Always replace damaged wheel studs. You don'tsay if it is the front, I assume it is, remove the caliper and rotor. Drive out the damaged stud with a brass drift or some type or driver. Install the new stud by placing a stack of washers under a lug nut, and pull it into place with wrench. It's best to use an open lug nut and turn it over for this job. Always torque the lug nuts to specification when installing wheels to prevent fueure damage.

Clifton Thanks for your advice. it is the front. I though I could just use a die to rethread it

if its for the wheels then i really dont know, replace and rethreading both sound complicated, or at least i think so.i havnt seen the assembly for the replacement of the bolt so i imagine it has to be done by a professional with the right equipment.start a thread about this for more opinions

Here are some reasons you shouldn't consider rethreading wheel studs.
1. Usually when a stud is stripped there isn't enough material remaining on the stud to form new threads.
2. A stud with stripped threads is usually streched and easily broken.
3. Wheels are a safety item and any part of the wheel system that is weak can result in an accident at worst or expensive damage to the vehicle if the repaired thread fails.
Replacing studs can be done with some simple tools and a little thought. I haven't replaced any Tacoma studs but I did have to replace several in a used FD Toyota Tercel I bought because someone used an impact wrench to install wheels. I have replaced many studs in race cars. I didn't mention in my earlier post that it's a good idea to use anti-sieze on all wheel studs.

I did some searching and found a photo description of basically what I said in my earlier post. The article is on a Dodge 4 X 4 and is similar to what is needed to replace Tacoma Studs.

http://www.pavementsucks.com/tech/studs.php

Here is another stud replacement article.

http://www.danoland.com/nsxgarage/fronthub/stud/studs.htm

And another one,

http://www.penguinhosting.net/~bigmac/store/stud%20replacement/

It can be done by an owner depending on your comfort level relating your mechanical ability. My suggestion is if you don't feel comfortable doing it yourself take it to a shop that does quality work. In any case I repeat again the stud should be replaced, don't even consider some of the thread repair stuff you see at Pep Boys and other discounters. Those fixes sometimes work on items that don't have heavy loads or high stress, but please don't try them on your wheel studs.
Off the soap box.

Clifton

Here are some reasons you shouldn't consider rethreading wheel studs.
1. Usually when a stud is stripped there isn't enough material remaining on the stud to form new threads.
2. A stud with stripped threads is usually streched and easily broken.
3. Wheels are a safety item and any part of the wheel system that is weak can result in an accident at worst or expensive damage to the vehicle if the repaired thread fails.
Replacing studs can be done with some simple tools and a little thought. I haven't replaced any Tacoma studs but I did have to replace several in a used FD Toyota Tercel I bought because someone used an impact wrench to install wheels. I have replaced many studs in race cars. I didn't mention in my earlier post that it's a good idea to use anti-sieze on all wheel studs.

I did some searching and found a photo description of basically what I said in my earlier post. The article is on a Dodge 4 X 4 and is similar to what is needed to replace Tacoma Studs.

http://www.pavementsucks.com/tech/studs.php

Here is another stud replacement article.

http://www.danoland.com/nsxgarage/fronthub/stud/studs.htm

And another one,

http://www.penguinhosting.net/~bigmac/store/stud%20replacement/

It can be done by an owner depending on your comfort level relating your mechanical ability. My suggestion is if you don't feel comfortable doing it yourself take it to a shop that does quality work. In any case I repeat again the stud should be replaced, don't even consider some of the thread repair stuff you see at Pep Boys and other discounters. Those fixes sometimes work on items that don't have heavy loads or high stress, but please don't try them on your wheel studs.
Off the soap box.

CliftonI really appreciate your help. This sounds easy enough. My only problem was that I did not know if I had to remove the hub from the vehicle before I started pounding off the stud or whether I can do it while the hub is installed

I don't have first hand information on your specific vehicle but there should be enough room to remove and replace the studs without removing the hub. I know on later Pre Runners the shop manual gives instructions for remove/replace with hub in place

Clifton

I don't have first hand information on your specific vehicle but there should be enough room to remove and replace the studs without removing the hub. I know on later Pre Runners the shop manual gives instructions for remove/replace with hub in place

CliftonI did manage to remove the studs with no problem. A couple a whacks with the hammer did just fine. I tried to mallet and no luck. my concern no is how easy it is to install the new ones. I did buy some 1/2 washers just as the webpages indicate. thanks again.

I'm sure you will do fine. If you can find a lug nut with through hole and flat outside end, turn it over to pull the studs in. The flat nut heps keep the stud aligned. After the stud is pulled through enough to go through the brake rotor with about 1/2" of thread exposed install the rotor and finish seating the studs. The rotor will guide the studs in straight. Apply a little anti-seize on the threads, install wheels and torque the lug nuts to specification, information should be in owners handbook. After a few miles driving retorque the lug nuts just to make sure everything is seated.

Clifton

I'm sure you will do fine. If you can find a lug nut with through hole and flat outside end, turn it over to pull the studs in. The flat nut heps keep the stud aligned. After the stud is pulled through enough to go through the brake rotor with about 1/2" of thread exposed install the rotor and finish seating the studs. The rotor will guide the studs in straight. Apply a little anti-seize on the threads, install wheels and torque the lug nuts to specification, information should be in owners handbook. After a few miles driving retorque the lug nuts just to make sure everything is seated.

Cliftononce again.. I thank you for all of your input and advice.

Does this also apply for a 98 tacoma 4x4??? Just bang the rotors off???

Thanks

it should work, just take the caliper out of the way and bang the rotor off, thats how it is on my 2000 and i dont think they changed much from 98 to 2000.

it should work, just take the caliper out of the way and bang the rotor off, thats how it is on my 2000 and i dont think they changed much from 98 to 2000.

Thank you for the quick response!! It's my bother in-laws truck and he asked me to do the job, I'm just trying to get an idea of what kind of tools will be needed for the job! Other than that is it just a standard brake job as far as the pads and rotors are concerned?

Thanks again!