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Buying an already swapped car


leestewart
05-22-2005, 01:55 AM
Ok, im new to the sr20 crowd. I dont know much. I have driving a 240 with an sr20 and loved it. Im thinking about buying a 1990 240sx with an Sr20 in it. Is there anything imperticular i should look for in the car. Anything that would give me heads up to a bad engine swap?? Also how reliable is a good sr swap??
The guy wants 5,200 dollars for the car. The car does have some mods.

-Apexi Super AFC
-Greddy Profec B boost cont.
-Downpipe 3" and test pipe
-Greddy PE exhaust
-HKS FMIC
-HKS super sequ BOV
-Walbro fuel pump
-Also inckuded with the car is a VLSD from a HICAS car and a greddy turbo timer.

Any imput would be greatly appreciated Thank You for reading

SR20DETpower
05-22-2005, 09:58 AM
its a good deal just on the parts if the body is in good condition.


make sure the wiring harness isn't all hacked up half assed..... thats about the most important thing... electrical gremlins can ruin your month lol

leestewart
05-22-2005, 11:45 AM
Its a white car the paint is a little dull but it is 16 yrs old. no rust on car

TatII
05-22-2005, 12:25 PM
that is a very good deal. just make sure all the other random stuff like the power windows, door locks, headlights, and electrical stuff works. also make sure theres no leaks in the hatch by the wing and random stuff that will become annoying to fix later on.

leestewart
05-22-2005, 12:30 PM
The car is a coupe and there is no wing. I think im gonna test drive it. Anything I should listen or feel for besides the usual knocking tapping ar anything like that??

rps13freak
05-22-2005, 12:51 PM
if you take it up to high rpms make sure that it doesnt sputter. this happend to my friends sr20. his fuel system was all fucked up.

NiSmO_zt
05-23-2005, 04:07 AM
lee, your such a nub, lol. jons car is mint, it just needs a few touch-ups like boost controller. havent you drove it yet? it pulls hard and smooth, and is mint! oh, and by the way, you get one free kidney shot if you buy it... just so you know

leestewart
05-23-2005, 08:46 AM
lol bopp just seein what some other people say, just curious. I tried to make sence of his boost cont instructions greek to me lol later yo.

leestewart
05-23-2005, 08:47 AM
O ya roger that on bient a nub!!!
I'm SR20 illeterate

Mayday0017
05-23-2005, 09:44 AM
I say do the usual, get down and look under the car and see if there is any oil. LOTS of people don't look at the oil pan and that area I always do cause I don't like changing rear seals or oilpan gaskets. Also if you want to know if he took his time on the swap take off the oil cap on valve cover and look at the first lobe on the cam not always but more often then not the first cam will be scored from clogged oil jet, if not that could mean that he knew about that and cleaned the oil jets or it could just mean he was lucky. Also he is aparently running more then stock boost (prob close to 14psi) and you didn't mention anything about a new intake, so if you wanted to be really picky take a bore scope pull the plugs and check all they pistons and such (2 and 3 run lean) the second piston from the front is what I am refering to as 2 is over 57% more likely to have a problem then any other. Running over stock boost makes that piston burn hotter from running lean and will burn through the piston. I would check it out before I bought the car and if it looked good my first upgrade would be a Freddy (fake gredd) intake manifold. well just my 2 cents

monooxide
05-23-2005, 05:06 PM
borescope...wonder who could have told mayday about something cool like that? He must have been SOOOOOO cool...i think it was mono...something or other.

NiSmO_zt
05-24-2005, 01:51 AM
oh, and just so you know, monoxide, on your car domain page, thats not a ca18det, its a vvt sr20.

typo?

Hawaiiandrifter
05-27-2005, 06:06 PM
Yeah i would definently look at the pistons. This happened to me on an SR. I did the swap and everything but when i got it running it was at 16 psi. Something was wrong with the actuator. Got the HKS one and turned it down to like 11 then pop! I had a hole in the piston. So definently check the internals any way possible.

R.W.240
05-27-2005, 06:20 PM
Do these

1) Leakdown - easier than borescope and will show a wider range of problems
2) Dented oil pan - more than .5cm and the engine life will be reduced
3) Lifter tick - shows that it was run with too thin an oil or long change intervals
4) Idle Settles quickly at 750ish - could be wiring problems
5) Rust on the Frame
6) 4th Gear Pull - either you do it or he do it but run all the way to Redline of one of the longer gears, and if hes scared to do it or it does something happens figure it out, also it will allow you to compare power to another similar SR or KA-T(you might like the KA more)

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