Intake manifold Gasket replacement


krushmoto
05-14-2005, 11:21 AM
Anyone have any tips on replacing the intake manifold gaskets? I've got a 2000 Malibu LS 3100 V6 w/ 105K mi. Thanks

goofy4467
06-08-2005, 10:35 PM
it can be done with a hanes manual and some mechanical ability.
just leave the injectors in the intake until after it is removed. helps keep oout the dirt

steve_o
06-09-2005, 08:59 AM
I just completed this project on my 3.1L, and it can be done by a novice with a manual and a torque wrench. I used the Haynes manual.

Don't make the mistake I made by not paying attention to the fuel rail o-ring. It is I had read on other threads about it and do not remember seeing a fuel rail o-ring when I took it apart, so when I put it all together and started the car I had a real mess, that added hours before completion. It really came out like a fountain.

Ita was Sunday and I was able to buy a misc. (HELP) o-ring kit from Autozone that was rated for fuel, and it had one that fit. I also put one on the bottom of the fuel regulator connection, it looked like one could go there. I just didn't want the same problem.

While I was at it I replaced the spark plugs, thermostat, fuel filter, coolant, oil/filter, cam shaft position sensor (wires were frayed and previously caused a CEL).

Buy some extra silicon gasket sealant for where the intake maifold meets the valve covers, you'll see. Other than that it went pretty smooth, remember to bleed the air out of the coolant line. Any pay attention to how all the wires and hoses are routed makes the re-assemble easier.

mobil_12
06-09-2005, 10:23 PM
Looks like there is some good advice you got there.

Its always a good idea to replace your plugs, wires, thermostat, pcv, valve cover gaskets, and possibly serp belt cause they all have to come off the engine. No better time than the present. Also, a good idea is to replace your oil pump drive o ring ( at the rear of the engine block ).

Watching the fuel line o ring is gold... thats a mistake you make only once ! Some of the newer models, you can disconnect the fuel hoses by the master cylinder using quick connect tools. Then you can take the hoses out with the fuel rail and manifold without disturbing the o ring at the rail. Another is make darn sure that all your push rods go back in exactly the place they came from. The intake rods are a different length than the exhaust ones. Thats an expensive accident.

Use lots of sealer on the engine block to manifold areas and let it set up for at least a few hours before adding fluids.

When tightening the intake be sure to use the correct torque on the bolts and the correct torque sequence.

Remember to change the oil when you are done, if there is any coolant left in the engine, it goes directly to the oil pan when you take up the intake manifold.

caymanis
01-22-2006, 11:26 AM
I have the same leak issue and want to replace the manifold gasket. How in the heck do you drain the radiator? Thanks for the tips..........I've gotta get this stipid leak fixed.

Thanks;

Rick Williams

krushmoto
01-22-2006, 10:59 PM
Well when you disconnect the hoses most of the coolant in the block will discharge. Just make sure you have something to catch it.
When you pull the manifold off whatever coolant is in the manifold will spill out into the block. MAKE sure before you reassemble the manifold take out the oil drain plug(keep it off until every drop of gunk drips out) & pour fresh oil all over the block and then after finishing the job replace the filter. Also make sure you do another oil change about 1K miles after.
That's what I did and my engine runs fine. I put on 150 mi/day and I average 75-80 mph. So in my opinion my engines fine. Let me know how you do with yours.

slls
01-23-2006, 01:00 PM
I have the same leak issue and want to replace the manifold gasket. How in the heck do you drain the radiator? Thanks for the tips..........I've gotta get this stipid leak fixed.

Thanks;

Rick Williams

Removing the block drain helps too.

kev23
01-23-2006, 07:01 PM
These are all very good hints, One article I found before I did mine was changes to the torque on the bolts, and make sure all the bolt threads are really clean before reassembly.

Adm Msg - New Intake Gasket for 3.1L LG8 and 3.4L LA1 Engines #vss20030024 - (03/04/2003)
Adm Msg -- New Intake Gasket for 3.1L LG8 and 3.4L LA1 Engines
1999-2003 Buick Century, Rendezvous; Chevrolet Impala, Monte Carlo, Venture; Oldsmobile Alero, Silhouette; Pontiac Aztek, Grand Am, Grand Prix and Montana
Service Manager, Parts Manager, Warranty Administrator
A new design intake gasket, P/N 89017279, has been released for service on the 3.1 and 3.4 engines and is currently available from GMSPO. The material used in the gasket has been changed in order to improve the sealing qualities of the gasket. The instruction sheet sent with the gaskets advises the technicians to replace the intake bolts with new ones that have a thread locker adhesive added. Currently the new bolts are unavailable from SPO. In the interim, the technicians are to clean the existing bolts and then apply a thread locking adhesive, P/N 12345382, and tighten to a new torque specification.

The new torque specification is a 2-step process;
tighten the vertical lower intake manifold bolts (the four middle ones) to 7 Nm (62 lb in).
Tighten the diagonal lower intake manifold bolts (two on each end) to 7 Nm (62 lb in).
Tighten the vertical lower intake manifold bolts (the four middle ones) to 13 Nm (115 lb in).
Tighten the diagonal lower intake manifold bolts (two on each end) to 25 Nm (18 lb ft).
The new torque specifications will be reflected in Thursday's down load of SI.

bcopeland
03-05-2006, 08:52 PM
Any new data? I noticed a TSB on Alldata as of January 2006 that calls for a new upper intake manifold gasket kit (part # 89017554), a new upper intake manifold kit (part # 89017272), a new lower intake manifold gasket (part # 89017400) and a new lower intake manifold (part # 24508923). Any data on all of this?

bcopeland
03-07-2006, 03:19 PM
By the way, I took it all apart and saw where on the original styled gasket, the end where the water circulates was busted and rotted. I went to Chevy dealership and they tried to sell me that old design for $70. Then I went to O'Reilly's and they sold me the "Problem-Solver" kit which was a much better design (steel with thick rubber where the water circulates) for the same price. I can't believe GM would still be selling that crap!

maxwedge
03-07-2006, 04:05 PM
That must be the dealer, there has been an updated set out for quite a while, also recommended new stronger bolts and torque specs.

stratford_boy
03-12-2006, 11:23 AM
A good way to make sure you get a minimum amout of coolant in the oil when doing intakes is to blow the intake and heads out with compressed air and a blow gun before lower int. removal...

webtyrant69
05-23-2007, 09:41 PM
I just completed this project on my 3.1L, and it can be done by a novice with a manual and a torque wrench. I used the Haynes manual.

Don't make the mistake I made by not paying attention to the fuel rail o-ring. It is I had read on other threads about it and do not remember seeing a fuel rail o-ring when I took it apart, so when I put it all together and started the car I had a real mess, that added hours before completion. It really came out like a fountain.

Ita was Sunday and I was able to buy a misc. (HELP) o-ring kit from Autozone that was rated for fuel, and it had one that fit. I also put one on the bottom of the fuel regulator connection, it looked like one could go there. I just didn't want the same problem. I have the haynes manual as well for my 2002 venture, but didn't see anything about a fuel rail o-ring. I asked my neighborhood advance auto and they didn't know what I was talking about. The o-ring fits on the bottom hose, right? (view from in front of car)

errorcauser
05-23-2007, 11:41 PM
I have the haynes manual as well for my 2002 venture, but didn't see anything about a fuel rail o-ring. I asked my neighborhood advance auto and they didn't know what I was talking about. The o-ring fits on the bottom hose, right? (view from in front of car)


The o-ring goes right in here (circled in red)....

http://img372.imageshack.us/my.php?image=midwayengine001bw5.jpg

webtyrant69
06-02-2007, 08:36 AM
Would you happen to know the size of the ring? I bought a package of fuel o rings and do not know the size.

bcopeland
06-02-2007, 10:51 AM
You can buy the O-Ring assortment package from AutoZone for about $5 rather than that specific O-Ring from the dealer for $8 and you just swap sizes until you find the right one. ALso, make sure you have the O-rings on your fuel injectors.

chadsosne
06-07-2007, 11:28 AM
I have to do this same fix this weekend. I live in Everett washington. Does anyone know the best place to get the upgraded seal/gasket to replace the old one. I'm 99.9% sure that is the problem. There is water in a small pool in two places next to the manifold right underneath the air intake sensor. I posted this before and someone had a picture of theirs with the ame problem. The water was even in the same place!

zooeyhall
08-02-2007, 10:32 AM
Hi! I just replaced the intake manifold gasket on my 2001 Chevy Malibu V-6. It took me about five evenings after work, taking my time. Here is some of my advice and observations from doing the job.

It can be done with patience and taking your time.

My car was only seeping, not leaking. But when I got the manifold off I can see how easily it could have started leaking into the engine--BIG trouble!

My GM dealer wanted $1000 for the job. They have a mechanic working full time doing nothing but replacing these gaskets.

I would recommend a good socket set with extensions, both metric and english. Also a box end wrench set. Strangely enough, there seems to be a mix of metric and english fasteners on this car.

The Haynes manual is helpful, but some things were different on my car.

I needed an 18 mm deep socket to remove the right side motor mount.

I would recommend getting the gasket set that FelPro makes for this application. It is a heavy duty gasket with a metal base. I got mine from O'Reilley for about $79. It also included a small tube of RTV silicone. The gasket has small tabs/projections that fit into corresponding holes in the block to hold it in position. Watch these carefully when placing the new gaskets on the engine so that they are fully inserted into the correct holes in the block.

I went to GM and got the bolts for the manifold, since some posts recommend replacing them. Very pricey--about $45. They are the same as the old bolts but just have pre-applied thread locker. When I took my old bolts out, they were in perfect shape. I would recommend reusing the old bolts after wire brushing the threads. Be sure to use thread locker.

Follow the torque recommendations in this thread. You will need a crowfoot-type socket to tighten two of the outer bolts with a torque wrench. There was a sheet in the FelPro gasket set that also gave the torque instructions.

Be sure and clean all traces of old gasket material. Clean with solvent and then wipe with a clean dry rag.

Watch out for the o ring in the fuel injection pipe connection. I had to give mine a tug to get the pipe disconnected and the o ring went flying. Even though I found it afterwards. Some on this post have said they purchased a "universal" fuel injection o-ring kit from O'Reilley. I did this also but to my eyes the rings in this kit are NOT the same as the one used on the engine. I would get it from Chevy. Be careful and lubricate this ring with oil when reattaching the fuel pipe. It has a tendency to shift, and this will cause a leak that you won't find until everything is reassembled. You will have to remove the upper plenum to fix it.

The EGR valve in back of the engine has to be disconnected from the manifold. Remove the two EGR to manifold bolts and move the EGR valve back an inch or so. The EGR pipe flexes so you can do this within reason. Be sure to get the EGR to manifold gasket before you start the job. It doesn't come in any of the kits and O'Reilley had to order it for me. Even though it came the next day, if you are planning to do this job over a weekend or holiday, you want to make sure you have it on hand.

One of the heater pipes goes into the water pump. This is sealed with an o ring that was not in the FelPro kit. I would recommend replacing this ring.

The rear engine block drain plug is very difficult of access, hard to remove but still harder to screw back in. You have to use two fingers and feel and just take your time.

I would recommend using a digital camera to take pictures of how things are put together during disassembly. Especially the spark plug wire routing. All electrical connectors only mate with another unique connector so you really can't mess anything up here. On my car, the spark plug wires were numbered and there were numbers on the coil(s) so that is helpful to keep from messing up the spark plug wire connections.

I didn't have to remove the fuel rails from the manifold in my application.

You need a small jack under the right-side oil pan to support and slightly raise the engine to remove the right side motor mount. Use a small board between the jack and oil pan. The mount has to be removed to get at one of the lower power steering pump mounting bolts. The Haynes manual says it can be done without removing the mount by using a flex joint extension but I couldn't get it removed with mine.

No radiator drain plug on my car, as far as I could see. Remove the shield under the radiator, remove the lower radiator hose to drain. Flush the radiator with a garden hose.

Take the opportunity to replace the spark plugs. Also change the oil and filter. This is also a good time to change the serpentine drive belt, since replacing this belt requires removal of the right engine mount and you have it off allready. If the car has over 50,000 miles, you may want to replace the idler pulleys also (because of the bearings). Also a good time to replace the thermostat.

chadsosne
08-02-2007, 01:09 PM
Thanks for the info zooeyhall. I'm sure it will come in handy. I will be doing this within the next week or 2 and will let ya know how it went.

aemfield
09-04-2007, 11:56 PM
I'm working on the gasket replacement right now and will let you know how it goes -- thanks to everyone for all of the helpful information.

In hopes that someone reads this sometime soon, any advice for removing the electrical connectors to the fuel injectors? I've been unable to get them off and I have spent over 30 minutes trying.... any trick that I'm missing?

covo84
09-08-2007, 10:00 PM
I'm working on the gasket replacement right now and will let you know how it goes -- thanks to everyone for all of the helpful information.

In hopes that someone reads this sometime soon, any advice for removing the electrical connectors to the fuel injectors? I've been unable to get them off and I have spent over 30 minutes trying.... any trick that I'm missing?
I know you are probably way past the injector plugs but if not, I will expain in another post. I am also in the middle of changing out the lower intake gasket after a major failure with water in the oil. I completed the job with everything going well. When I started the car, a small knock was present and the check engine light began blinking. After consulting with other backyard mechanics, they suggested the valve were not opening or operating properly. Today I went back into the engine and right now, I am at the intake gasket. I plan on rolling the engine looking for operation of the rocker arms. If I see no issues, I am lost for answers. This is frustrating! Any good advice would be appreciated.

aemfield
09-11-2007, 02:30 AM
Yes, I got past it. It took me another half hour to get them off after I figured out what I was doing wrong (and I managed to break a lamp and burn out three light bulbs....) Rather than a typical push-button electrical connectors, these had "locking" pieces that had to be pulled up. Once I figured that out, it was just a few bashed knuckles away.

As for your comment, Covo84, did you make sure the push rods were down securely in their holes and torque the rocker arms right? As far as I can tell, if you did that, the rocker arms should be working correctly.

But once you find your answer, I'd like to see it, to make sure I don't run into the same problem. I'm just trying to find my taps so I can put everything back together right now...

bearcatdon
09-19-2007, 08:51 PM
When I started the car, a small knock was present and the check engine light began blinking. After consulting with other backyard mechanics, they suggested the valve were not opening or operating properly.

I'd have to agree. It sounds like your lifter may not be sitting on the cam properly. I unfortunetely did the same thing on one of my exhaust valves the first time I did the job. The only difference was that the knock eventually turned into a loud back fire. It was actually pretty cool but also very lucky I didn't damage anything.

B-Man1234
09-26-2007, 05:58 AM
I'm replacing the intake gasket on my 2000 Venture right now, but, have two problems. One, where do you find a torque wrench that does inch pounds under 115? Can't find one anywhere. And two, how do you get the torque wrench on the two outer bolts that are under the intake runners? Once you put a socket on them, there is no room to connect the wrench to them. So how do you torque it down? Or do you just snug it and give it a 1/4 turn?

moon03
10-01-2007, 12:21 PM
Intake bolts need to be torqued the 115 inch pounds (9 1/2 foot pounds) I might try to snug and cinch BUT some kragen's and other parts stores have loaners or they sell one fairly reasonable (but for a one time use???) I have an old bar type that I use (or borrow my buddies Snap-On if changing trans fluid on my cars (click type)

gta333
10-22-2007, 10:22 PM
My son stopped by tonight. He has a chevy mailbu that seems to have a bad Intake manifold. Check the dip stick for the oil and that it seems to be coolant getting into the oil. It looks like it is leaking on the block also. He his parking it until we can get the gasket replaced this week-end. This seems to be a common problem form reading these posts. Never have replaced manifold gasket before. I plan on getting a book and taking my time. My question is how much damage has been done with the coolant getting into the oil. The car seems to drive fine other than overheating. And do most auto stores carry replacement gaskets in stock. Thanks gary

bearcatdon
10-23-2007, 08:36 PM
GTA333:

You'll find more good info here
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=334474&page=2

I would recommend the OEM lower gasket. Regardless of where you buy it, make sure it has metal reinforcements on the diagonal bolt holes. Your probably overheating due to low coolant and/or oil mixed in there. My coolant was black when I did mine. If the engine is still running fine you should be OK. Just remember to do an oil change after the job is completed.

gta333
10-24-2007, 05:49 PM
Thanks for the reply. Im going to start on this friday night. My mechanic I sometimes take my cars to called and said that this is a job that only mechanics should do. I understand that this is not your 2 or 3 hour job. I have never done one before but picked up a haynes manual last night and have been going over it. My mechanic says he is not trying to get the job but says alot of things can happen. Im sure if I take my time where I have all week-end to do this job. Im a electrician so I do have some mechanical abilty where I think i should be alright. Im looking at spending 150.00 vs 650.00 that they want to fix it. Im open for suggestions as far as the difficulty of this Job. Thanks Gary

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