Antifreeze linking from Muff.'93 escort

I changed the intake Manifold Gasket cause it had a air leak, now alot of antifreeze is shooting out the muffler.

this sounds like a fun one. i'll take a long shot on this. four cylinder? make sure that the throttlebody coolant hose(s) is/are not attached to a vacuume port. v6 (even though i don't think the escourt came with one)? retorque the manifold retaining bolts or (like this is a title for a rockey and bullwinkle episode) did you apply sealant to the gasket in the area where the water jacket enters the manifold?

this sounds like a fun one. i'll take a long shot on this. four cylinder? make sure that the throttlebody coolant hose(s) is/are not attached to a vacuume port. v6 (even though i don't think the escourt came with one)? retorque the manifold retaining bolts or (like this is a title for a rockey and bullwinkle episode) did you apply sealant to the gasket in the area where the water jacket enters the manifold?

Thanks, do u know how many pounds it should be?
The escort does not have that hose feature or problem
and I will take it out and put sealeant, I figured I didn't need it but I will do so.

pounds? do you have the v6? just make sure that you prepare the gasket surfaces meticulously and apply sealant where the manual says. some people may not agree, but i think a light sanding with medium grit paper and a sanding block is an excelent way to prepare a gasket surface (use long strokes and sand the whole surface evenly). just remember to do a final cleaning with a solvent that does not leave residue, i like brake cleaner or ether (but i think ether may contain some oil, go with brake cleaner). don't go overboard with the goop -- remember for the ammount of sealant that you see squeez out from between a joint, the same ammount squeezes into the passage that you are sealing. also remember to tighten the manifold bolts evenly and in the prescribed pattern. if you can not get the torque pattern then it is generally safe to assume that you start with the fasteners in the middle and work outward while swapping sides. see belpw for a crude representation of this idea. don't try to tighten bolts all of the way on the first shot either, you want to put them all in place first, then make all of them snug, and then make all of them tight, and finally do the final torque (use an inch-pound torque wrench if you can obtain one and get the propper specification. if you can't then 5-8 ft.lb should be safe for an aluminum head if the theraded portion of the bolt is 3/8" or more in diameter). if you don't have a manual go to the auto store where you purchased the parts and ask to see a manual with the instalation instructions for your gasket. usually when you spend money at the parts store the attendants are willing to give you free information regarding the parts that you purchased. if they don't then take your money to a place where the staff is more understanding.



each number represents a bolt. just follow the pattern, it is repeating and can go as long as you want:

7 5 1 3 10

9 4 2 6 8

OK, I put sealant between the engine and the gasket.

But Should I have put sealant between the manifold and the gasket.

in the water jacket region of the gasket smear a small ammount (by this i mean don't use large globs, maybe 1/32" thick or so) of blue rtv sealant on both sides of the gasket and allow the top to dry (something like 5 minutes is acceptable). if you desire you may also apply sealant to the metal surfaces around the water jacket area. allow at least 12 hours before filling the radiator just to ensure that the job is a success.


what engine do you have?