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94 Ford Escort - Engine quits at idle


Markistrum
04-25-2005, 10:30 AM
I have 94 Ford Escort 1.9L 4 cylinder

Car runs great just as long as you are stepping on the gas.
If parked or sitting at a trafic light I have to keep foot on brake
and give a little gas to keep it running. If I do not give it gas
engine sputters a few times and then dies very suddenly.
Can start it right back up with no problem. Its a little odd
that car runs so good while I'm driving. Car runs great on the
highway no problem going over 80 mph and it also sounds good,
no missing when I'm going slower than 10 mph.

I have replaced the spark plugs and wires also replaced the idle air control valve which were very easy- These did not help! Tried running
higher octane gas and fuel injector cleaner, these did no good.

Any other suggestions?

PlayWithGravity
04-25-2005, 11:19 AM
I'd suggest maybe buying a Honda. ha haa Just kidding, sorry I can't help! -Marty

A. Souphound
04-25-2005, 06:02 PM
I have 94 Ford Escort 1.9L 4 cylinder

Car runs great just as long as you are stepping on the gas.
If parked or sitting at a trafic light I have to keep foot on brake
and give a little gas to keep it running. If I do not give it gas
engine sputters a few times and then dies very suddenly.
Can start it right back up with no problem. Its a little odd
that car runs so good while I'm driving. Car runs great on the
highway no problem going over 80 mph and it also sounds good,
no missing when I'm going slower than 10 mph.

I have replaced the spark plugs and wires also replaced the idle air control valve which were very easy- These did not help! Tried running
higher octane gas and fuel injector cleaner, these did no good.

Any other suggestions?

:2cents: Possibility the TPS (Throttle position sensor) is faulty or bad connection. The TPS may have a 'dead spot' in the resistor. If you have a DVOM and want instructions on how to check it let us know.
It could also be a vacuum leak such as a PCV valve, or the EGR valve not seated.

chevyn0va1
04-25-2005, 09:21 PM
:2cents: Possibility the TPS (Throttle position sensor) is faulty or bad connection. The TPS may have a 'dead spot' in the resistor. If you have a DVOM and want instructions on how to check it let us know.
It could also be a vacuum leak such as a PCV valve, or the EGR valve not seated.

I think i have seen you post it before but I would like it. Also how to test the IAC vavle. Mine works well when I take it off and spray it then reinstall but then it goes back to "normal" Iw ant to be sure before I pony out $60. for nothing

A. Souphound
04-26-2005, 08:01 AM
I think i have seen you post it before but I would like it. Also how to test the IAC vavle. Mine works well when I take it off and spray it then reinstall but then it goes back to "normal" Iw ant to be sure before I pony out $60. for nothing

Hi Chevy

Comment: A defective TPS can affect driveability without setting any codes in the onboard computer.
To check the TPS: Disconnect the harness, set the DVOM to the 20K ohm scale. Connect one lead to the center terminal, and the other to either of the two remaining terminals. SLOWLY increase the throttle watching the meter increase or decrease smoothly as you move the throttle. There should be no glitches or infinite readings...if there are, replace the TPS.
It sounds like your IAC is sticking/galding....they don't get dirty that fast. When you 'clean' the IAC do you put a drop of oil on the pindle end where it goes into the casting? It works for me.
All the best,

Markistrum
04-26-2005, 08:34 AM
Thanks for the replys,

Yes, if you can supply the instructions to test the TPS it would
be appreciated. I do own a DVOM to test it.

Buying a Chiltons manual that will hopefully show where this unit
is located

chevyn0va1
04-26-2005, 01:39 PM
Hi Chevy

Comment: A defective TPS can affect driveability without setting any codes in the onboard computer.
To check the TPS: Disconnect the harness, set the DVOM to the 20K ohm scale. Connect one lead to the center terminal, and the other to either of the two remaining terminals. SLOWLY increase the throttle watching the meter increase or decrease smoothly as you move the throttle. There should be no glitches or infinite readings...if there are, replace the TPS.
It sounds like your IAC is sticking/galding....they don't get dirty that fast. When you 'clean' the IAC do you put a drop of oil on the pindle end where it goes into the casting? It works for me.
All the best,

great info alvin only thing I did was spray wd-40 on it should I just try the oil instead? BTW where is the tps on my car I'd like to check mine too. (i have no code on my computer)

A. Souphound
04-26-2005, 01:46 PM
Thanks for the replys,

Yes, if you can supply the instructions to test the TPS it would
be appreciated. I do own a DVOM to test it.

Buying a Chiltons manual that will hopefully show where this unit
is located

See post #5 above for test instructions, and the TPS is located just below the IAC on the throttle body. It's held on with a couple of screws. If you find it is defective and have to change it, I will give you the method for adjusting it back to the correct position.

chevyn0va1
04-26-2005, 04:50 PM
See post #5 above for test instructions, and the TPS is located just below the IAC on the throttle body. It's held on with a couple of screws. If you find it is defective and have to change it, I will give you the method for adjusting it back to the correct position.

I just went to go look how the heck do you get in there to test kind need to be a flexable person?-lol

I took the IAC off and hit it with oil like you said and ill see if it did anything. beautiful 65 here and my nova is calling me.

chevyn0va1
04-27-2005, 11:59 AM
I just went to go look how the heck do you get in there to test kind need to be a flexable person?-lol

I took the IAC off and hit it with oil like you said and ill see if it did anything. beautiful 65 here and my nova is calling me.

I did the drop of oil and it seems to work better then the wd 40 did.

Captain Bozo
07-11-2005, 05:09 PM
I had the exact same problem on my 93, I read somewhere to replace the brake booster, so I got one, stuck it on and it fixed it, mine runs perfect now.

willye
07-11-2005, 05:56 PM
My 95 Escort 1.9 did the same thing. I found a hole in the rubber boot that forms an L shape into the intake manifold from the PCV pipe. It costs about $3.00 to get a piece of hose to replace it. Check for any hole in the boot at all -- the system is VERY sensitive to vacuum leaks.
Good luck!

AzTumbleweed
07-11-2005, 07:42 PM
Thanks for the great tips, guys. My '93 does the same thing. But only seems to do it after the car has warmed up and I shut it off a few minutes and then restart it. Wants to die pretty bad but doesn't.

rmwpm3
08-11-2005, 12:08 AM
I have 94 Ford Escort 1.9L 4 cylinder

Car runs great just as long as you are stepping on the gas.
If parked or sitting at a trafic light I have to keep foot on brake
and give a little gas to keep it running. If I do not give it gas
engine sputters a few times and then dies very suddenly.
Can start it right back up with no problem. Its a little odd
that car runs so good while I'm driving. Car runs great on the
highway no problem going over 80 mph and it also sounds good,
no missing when I'm going slower than 10 mph.

I have replaced the spark plugs and wires also replaced the idle air control valve which were very easy- These did not help! Tried running
higher octane gas and fuel injector cleaner, these did no good.

Any other suggestions?




I was wondering if you ever found the source of this problem...My car is having the exact same problem; matter of fact, I thought I wrote this message before i saw your name on it...

Please help

Arnoldtheskier
08-11-2005, 11:06 PM
My 93 does this too.Did it when I bought it..new iac etc. Not that bad though.More of the idle getting rougher than actually slowing down that much or stalling.ONLY! when it is warm. Not bad enough for me to chase it yet.I am GUESSING a bad or dirty injector..AS this happens when warm NOT when cold.I am again guessing that it is the injector because it runs so well the rest of the time.Cold there is some sort of fuel enrichment to richen it up.To me it has the symptoms of a drippy injector.I guess I could try and isolate it to a particular cylinder..but I haven't botherred.At one time I thought of taking off the t.body and doing what I have to do to to get the screw(factory set) so that I could adjust the idle normally.This woulld raise it slightly when warm..not sure how much when cold.BETTER idea is to get another t body and fiddle wirth that one.BEST yet is to make a tiny little bracket and have ANOTHER place to control the idle.Drill and tap for another little bolt or screw.I spend almost no time idling anyway that it is not a big enough deal to think too much about.Guess I could also do a cold and hot fuel pressure.Mine has good eng. vac cold and hot(same).Oh well.

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