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Escort Dies - Drives about 10 miles, then quitssje 04-21-2005, 11:13 PM We can drive about 10 miles, in the morning, car sometimes will cut out, sometimes will make it. When it dies, there's no warning, it just stops and we hope to be very close to a driveway to aim the car towards. Many times my husband has had to push the car. When this problem first happened, within a week of buying the car last November, we took it to a mechanic. He had it for 3 days, didn't know what the problem was, then said it was the fuel pump. So, that was replaced, we take the car, same thing happens that afternoon. Go right back to the mechanic, they tell my husband "well, you won't need your running shoes, it will start again". And they got $430 for the fuel pump. When he had returned to the shop, then they said well it might be another problem. We learned the hard way to not go back. It will also cut out when turning corners and/or slowing down. No backfires or anything. It's a 5-speed, with 300,000 miles, and we don't know if that's the original engine or not. Also, it does not usually start right up, takes anywhere from 5 minutes to 30 minutes, then may get us back home, within 10 miles or less, or will cut out 3 or 4 times on the way home. It sometimes takes 2 1/2 hours to get from work to the house, normally would be a 15 minute drive on a busy day. Help! Thank you. A. Souphound 04-22-2005, 09:09 AM My crystal ball is a bit fuzzy this morning and I can't see your car clearly......you will have to tell us about it....Year, engine size, fuel injection etc. sje 04-22-2005, 10:53 AM [1993 Escort - 6 cyl.] We can drive about 10 miles, in the morning, car sometimes will cut out, sometimes will make it. When it dies, there's no warning, it just stops and we hope to be very close to a driveway to aim the car towards. Many times my husband has had to push the car. When this problem first happened, within a week of buying the car last November, we took it to a mechanic. He had it for 3 days, didn't know what the problem was, then said it was the fuel pump. So, that was replaced, we take the car, same thing happens that afternoon. Go right back to the mechanic, they tell my husband "well, you won't need your running shoes, it will start again". And they got $430 for the fuel pump. When he had returned to the shop, then they said well it might be another problem. We learned the hard way to not go back. It will also cut out when turning corners and/or slowing down. No backfires or anything. It's a 5-speed, with 300,000 miles, and we don't know if that's the original engine or not. Also, it does not usually start right up, takes anywhere from 5 minutes to 30 minutes, then may get us back home, within 10 miles or less, or will cut out 3 or 4 times on the way home. It sometimes takes 2 1/2 hours to get from work to the house, normally would be a 15 minute drive on a busy day. Help! Thank you.[/QUOTE] RatLabGuy 04-22-2005, 11:21 AM This is waaaaay out in left field, but you may have something floating around in the gas tank. I know a guy that once put a ping-ping ball in somebody's tank as a prank, this is exactly what the car did. Took 'em months and many trips to the shop to figure it out. chevyn0va1 04-22-2005, 02:57 PM This is waaaaay out in left field, but you may have something floating around in the gas tank. I know a guy that once put a ping-ping ball in somebody's tank as a prank, this is exactly what the car did. Took 'em months and many trips to the shop to figure it out. check all the battery system connections. Check when the car is in a no start mode if you have spark and then if you have fuel BTW they made 6 cyl escorts? Oh alvin I knew you worked magic but didnt know you used crystal balls too. sje 04-22-2005, 10:40 PM We will check the connections again, and look for a ping pong ball or something in the tank! Trying to work out getting it to a mechanic we were referred to, later next week, hoping it will make the 5 mile drive. Need transportation, boss would frown on my not being there. But if it's more costly to get it repaired than to get another used car, it won't be another Ford. This is the 2nd Escort in little over a year, previous was a '97, automatic, replaced fuel injection line, then it got hit, that's when we got this one. Not cheap repairs, but then, it was the same mechanic that said the '93 was a fuel pump problem. Thanks. A. Souphound 04-23-2005, 09:53 AM [1993 Escort - 6 cyl.] We can drive about 10 miles, in the morning, car sometimes will cut out, sometimes will make it. When it dies, there's no warning, it just stops and we hope to be very close to a driveway to aim the car towards. Many times my husband has had to push the car. When this problem first happened, within a week of buying the car last November, we took it to a mechanic. He had it for 3 days, didn't know what the problem was, then said it was the fuel pump. So, that was replaced, we take the car, same thing happens that afternoon. Go right back to the mechanic, they tell my husband "well, you won't need your running shoes, it will start again". And they got $430 for the fuel pump. When he had returned to the shop, then they said well it might be another problem. We learned the hard way to not go back. It will also cut out when turning corners and/or slowing down. No backfires or anything. It's a 5-speed, with 300,000 miles, and we don't know if that's the original engine or not. Also, it does not usually start right up, takes anywhere from 5 minutes to 30 minutes, then may get us back home, within 10 miles or less, or will cut out 3 or 4 times on the way home. It sometimes takes 2 1/2 hours to get from work to the house, normally would be a 15 minute drive on a busy day. Help! Thank you.[/QUOTE] :2cents: Why don't you buy a 'code reader' for about $30 and see what codes are stored in the computer. Part swapping (i.e. fuel pump) is not necessary if the mechanic knows how to check the fuel pressure. It could be a stopped up fuel filter. The problem could be either fuel or ignition. I have seen ignition control modules fail when hot, and after a 'cool down' period will fire again, just to fail after a very short time. (couple of miles) You say you don't know if it is the original engine or not. I haven't seen a 6 cylinder 93, but I would like to have one. sje 04-23-2005, 05:39 PM Thanks! Yes, possibly the previous mechanic was not as savvy as the people on this forum answering my questions. Do you know if an ignition module is a costly repair/replacement, and is it something most mechanic should know how to check and repair? We're looking to get this fixed later this week. Oh, one more question - Does it take long to fix, if that's the problem? Okay, engine is a 4. :2cents: Why don't you buy a 'code reader' for about $30 and see what codes are stored in the computer. Part swapping (i.e. fuel pump) is not necessary if the mechanic knows how to check the fuel pressure. It could be a stopped up fuel filter. The problem could be either fuel or ignition. I have seen ignition control modules fail when hot, and after a 'cool down' period will fire again, just to fail after a very short time. (couple of miles) You say you don't know if it is the original engine or not. I haven't seen a 6 cylinder 93, but I would like to have one.[/QUOTE] chevyn0va1 04-23-2005, 06:23 PM Thanks! Yes, possibly the previous mechanic was not as savvy as the people on this forum answering my questions. Do you know if an ignition module is a costly repair/replacement, and is it something most mechanic should know how to check and repair? We're looking to get this fixed later this week. Oh, one more question - Does it take long to fix, if that's the problem? Okay, engine is a 4. QUOTE] Shouldnt take more then an hour tops for a skilled person maybe 2 if you do it yourself. If you take it out sometimes autozone can test it for you. Part should be less then $50.00 A. Souphound 04-23-2005, 06:59 PM There are some basic questions you need to answer: When you turn on the key can you hear a click and or the fuel pump running? sje 04-24-2005, 06:59 PM Sounds "normal", like it has when we bought it, but only within a few days of getting it, this problem reared its ugly head. There's the usual normal sounds of a key going into an ignition, starts, seems to do a little better when it's first driven, in the mornings, and we don't know if that's because it's cold. Looked up the ignition control module and it's around $90 but we're so mechanically un-inclined, and want to be sure what the problem is before we buy parts to take to someone that can install them. Today it was hardly driven, just within a mile, and when slowing down at corners, chugga-chugga-jerk-jerk. Davescort97 04-25-2005, 03:37 AM Sounds "normal", like it has when we bought it, but only within a few days of getting it, this problem reared its ugly head. There's the usual normal sounds of a key going into an ignition, starts, seems to do a little better when it's first driven, in the mornings, and we don't know if that's because it's cold. Looked up the ignition control module and it's around $90 but we're so mechanically un-inclined, and want to be sure what the problem is before we buy parts to take to someone that can install them. Today it was hardly driven, just within a mile, and when slowing down at corners, chugga-chugga-jerk-jerk. Checkout the thread entitled, Engine stutters a little. This guy replaced his plugs, plug wires and coil pack twice. This thread had 25 replies and nobody guessed that it was the gas cap. Loosen your gas cap and see if your problem is fixed. A. Souphound 04-25-2005, 09:47 AM Sounds "normal", like it has when we bought it, but only within a few days of getting it, this problem reared its ugly head. There's the usual normal sounds of a key going into an ignition, starts, seems to do a little better when it's first driven, in the mornings, and we don't know if that's because it's cold. Looked up the ignition control module and it's around $90 but we're so mechanically un-inclined, and want to be sure what the problem is before we buy parts to take to someone that can install them. Today it was hardly driven, just within a mile, and when slowing down at corners, chugga-chugga-jerk-jerk. Hopefully I can explain what we are trying to accomplish here. On this forum you have an opportunity to get 'help' that would cost you $50 -$70 per hour.....free. Troubleshooting is a difficult task even when we have the 'hands on' opportunity, and able to see, smell, and test in a logical and systematic way. In the 'forum' setting we have to rely on those requesting help to give us 'clues' through narrative description and specific responses to questions. Through a successful communication exchange process we hope to narrow the problem possibilities, and therefore minimize the chances of your buying expensive and un-needed components. By mentioning the control module problem with someone else's vehicle.....does not mean it is the answer to your car problem. It could be a number of things and with 300,000 miles on the vehicle that number certainly increases. I understand you do not see the significance of the questions, but they are meant to eliminate or define the symptoms. Best of luck, sje 04-25-2005, 11:59 AM I understand the significance of the questions. Could that be someone else you may be replying to? Glad for questions, the more questions, the better and more precise we can get to narrowing down the problem, and the more checking on it we can do. Appreciate it. This is much more acquired information than we had when we took it to the mechanic before, we had nothing to go on, and they knew it. Now, with all these things to check, and more education about possibilities to look for (by the way, that mechanic never suggested any of these things, well, he had no clue really, not good businessman), we feel more confident in taking it to the next mechanic and having them check all this out. It may just be that this car should be replaced with all that mileage. Not quite ready to put out that kind of money just yet, so repair, at least enough to get us through a couple more months, is the best course to pursue at this time. Will also check gas cap. Checking everything everyone's suggesting. Thanks everyone for responding! sje 04-29-2005, 09:27 PM We brought it to another mechanic this morning. They say it's the fuel pump and filter, that the ones that the other mechanic said they replaced are bad, it's causing us to lose fuel, and the noise alone should have told them it was bad. New mechanic put on another filter, told us to get it back to that other mechanic and see if they'll make good on it. Other mechanic says sure, they'll put in another pump, and we have to pay labor charges again. This state has no regulation on mechanic's labor charges, they can charge, and charge, even though we paid to have the repair/labor, and the parts were bad, they charge labor again to fix what they didn't fix the first time. Then they tell us they'll run their tests to see if it's the fuel pump. 4 hours later, they call, said it doesn't show it's the fuel pump, that it tests fine on their equipment. We ask, "Then what's the problem?". They said "We don't know, but if you want us to put on another fuel pump, we'll still do it, for the labor charge". Right now, we'll see how the new filter works, if it eliminates or helps to reduce the car's cutting out, we'll drive this until we can get another car. We will have a new mechanic, the one that we went to this morning. They have integrity, a well-known franchise, they figured the problem in a very short time, while the former mechanic keeps the car for several hours or days each time. Learned an expensive lesson, but thankfully, before we gave them any more money. Thanks everyone! chevyn0va1 04-30-2005, 07:39 AM We brought it to another mechanic this morning. They say it's the fuel pump and filter, that the ones that the other mechanic said they replaced are bad, it's causing us to lose fuel, and the noise alone should have told them it was bad. New mechanic put on another filter, told us to get it back to that other mechanic and see if they'll make good on it. Other mechanic says sure, they'll put in another pump, and we have to pay labor charges again. This state has no regulation on mechanic's labor charges, they can charge, and charge, even though we paid to have the repair/labor, and the parts were bad, they charge labor again to fix what they didn't fix the first time. Then they tell us they'll run their tests to see if it's the fuel pump. 4 hours later, they call, said it doesn't show it's the fuel pump, that it tests fine on their equipment. We ask, "Then what's the problem?". They said "We don't know, but if you want us to put on another fuel pump, we'll still do it, for the labor charge". Right now, we'll see how the new filter works, if it eliminates or helps to reduce the car's cutting out, we'll drive this until we can get another car. We will have a new mechanic, the one that we went to this morning. They have integrity, a well-known franchise, they figured the problem in a very short time, while the former mechanic keeps the car for several hours or days each time. Learned an expensive lesson, but thankfully, before we gave them any more money. Thanks everyone! good luck with it check with you better business bureau before you assume there is no recourse. ( I still dont think it will cure your problem however could it be the wireing at that end of the car or at the computer possibly?) sje 04-30-2005, 07:01 PM Someone I work with also suggested checking with BBB, he thought they shouldn't be able to charge for labor again, and BBB says they can, there's no regulation on that industry in this state. So far today, we've driven for about 10-15 minutes, which isn't usually a problem at first, let it rest for a while, then drove a few more places, and it's not cut out. The real test will be driving further, might be tomorrow, but definitely Monday, to get to work. The better mechanic (who also said he wouldn't have charged again if it came from their shop) said the filter may help, and better gasoline, so we're now putting in the super unleaded, anything to get this to hopefully keep working for a little while longer. vBulletin®, Copyright ©2009, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
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