Best Oil Wt for 2000 Blazer??

I'm about to do a tune-up on my blazer and I'm not sure what type of oil to put in her. I've searched on here and have been unable to find it.

Also what is O2 Sensor Synthetic Oil used for. Should I try it? If so, what would be the ideal weight??? 10/30 10/40 20/50??

I'm totally lost when it comes to this... My mileage is 88300 and I live in the worst climate in the US, which is the Central Valley in CA so I understand that has to do with how she is to be kept running good.

Thanks again.... :)

O2 sensor synthetic oil? There is no such thing.

If you want to go to synthetic, use Mobil 1 Synthetic 5w30 with a good oil filter. And don't use FRAM!

If you want to stick to normal oil, use Castrol GTX 5w30.

Never heard of o2 sensor oil either? I Switched to Mobil 1 5w-30 about 3 oil changes ago while it was still cold here (MASS) and defintiely noticed how my truck starts much better in the cold, much easier and definite better MPG. Egine oil is coming out cleaner at this point so I know some of the sludge has worked itself out. My truck is also much quiter. So I would say for the few extra bucks feed your truck some Mobil 1. If you read this BlazerLT just curious, what oil filter do you stick with most often?

AC Delco oil filters or WIX are excellent.

Cool been using AC Delco. So you say WIX ha? So I can just use a good NAPA filter then? I have never seen a filter just made by WIX in my area, Peabody MA. And I know Napa filters are made by WIX and acyually NAPA oil is made by Valvoline. What is your take on the over priced Mobil 1 Filter?

Cool been using AC Delco. So you say WIX ha? So I can just use a good NAPA filter then? I have never seen a filter just made by WIX in my area, Peabody MA. And I know Napa filters are made by WIX and acyually NAPA oil is made by Valvoline. What is your take on the over priced Mobil 1 Filter?

Not really worth it.

WIX and AC Delco are very good filters for every application.

Just make sure you use 5w30 oil. I HIGHLY recommend Castrol GTX 5w30 seeing now it is a GF4 based oil and is as close to synthetic you can get in a conventional bottled oil.

Yea, think I will stick with the Mobil1

Yea, think I will stick with the Mobil1

If it is synthetic, I hope you are not changing it every 3000miles.

That would be a waste of good oil and money.

If it is synthetic, I hope you are not changing it every 3000miles.

That would be a waste of good oil and money.

Oh I agree. When I did the flsh with Gunk, followed your instructions, let it idle for 45 minutes with the original oil and new filter, crappy FRAM one hehe, then changed with fresh Mobil1 and a new AC Delco filter. I changed it the first time after the flush at about 3K miles and ever since I am changing anywhere between 6K and 10K. I always check the oil about every thousand to look for any discoloration. Let me ask you this BlazerLT, have you seen the extended mileage oil from Mobil? I was thinking if I can get it for a good price I was going to switch to Mobils new 15K oil. They say it contains almost 40% more cleaners then the original Mobil1. The new 5K and 7500 oils from Mobil1 are non synthetic, the 15K is full synthetic. Anyway, let me know what you think or what anyone else may think. I trust your opinions and appreciate them.

The new 15k mile oil is a marketing scam.

It is technically the same oil with a different label. The only addition is more Boron.

If you can get the new EP 15k oil for the same price, I would go for it. But if it is more expensive, the standard Mobil1 5w30 has the same ingredients to go the 15k as well.

When you boil it down, it all dpends on the price difference.

The new 15k mile oil is a marketing scam.

It is technically the same oil with a different label. The only addition is more Boron.

If you can get the new EP 15k oil for the same price, I would go for it. But if it is more expensive, the standard Mobil1 5w30 has the same ingredients to go the 15k as well.

When you boil it down, it all dpends on the price difference.

I pay $19.97 at walmart for the 5 Quart jug. Not a bad price

I pay $19.97 at walmart for the 5 Quart jug. Not a bad price

Is that the normal stuff?

Is that the normal stuff?

Nope Mobil1 Full Synthetic 5W-30. $19.97 at walmart or $6.99 at autozone or napa per quart! Bad thing is Walmart only carries fram, so I go elsewhere for my filters.

That sounds like the normal Mobil1 full synthetic, the extended life should be about $24.

Also the new extended life Mobil1 isn't approved, it failed the fuel economy tests. Check your owner's manual and it will show you the seal to look for when choosing an oil, the extended life doesn't have that seal.

Nope Mobil1 Full Synthetic 5W-30. $19.97 at walmart or $6.99 at autozone or napa per quart! Bad thing is Walmart only carries fram, so I go elsewhere for my filters.

There is only one fram I use and that is the X2 or the EXTENDED GUARD.

That is the filter I use right now and it is approved for longer oil change intervals so you should check it out.

It is a good oil filter and is nothing like the crap Extra Guard and Tough Guard.

I use the X2 on all my engines.

That sounds like the normal Mobil1 full synthetic, the extended life should be about $24.

Also the new extended life Mobil1 isn't approved, it failed the fuel economy tests. Check your owner's manual and it will show you the seal to look for when choosing an oil, the extended life doesn't have that seal.

Yes the normal stuff. I didn't know that the extended was not approved

That sounds like the normal Mobil1 full synthetic, the extended life should be about $24.

Also the new extended life Mobil1 isn't approved, it failed the fuel economy tests. Check your owner's manual and it will show you the seal to look for when choosing an oil, the extended life doesn't have that seal.

That's odd, I never heard they were not energy conserving.

Not that it really matters though. It won't hurt your economy at all.

The difference is slim to none. I run 0w30 and it doesn't have the energy conserving rating and my fuel economy is not going down.

That's odd, I never heard they were not energy conserving.

Not that it really matters though. It won't hurt your economy at all.

The difference is slim to none. I run 0w30 and it doesn't have the energy conserving rating and my fuel economy is not going down.

The only reason I know is because it was posted on here by lou S.

The only reason I know is because it was posted on here by lou S.

Here is some information on this oil and the lack of the energy conserving ranking.

http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=009739

Here is some information on this oil and the lack of the energy conserving ranking.

http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=009739


Thanks for the link.
Is there anything about oil that those guys don't talk about? They are obsessed. I bet they've even done viscosity tests on their wives' cooking oil. :)

Thanks for the link.
Is there anything about oil that those guys don't talk about? They are obsessed. I bet they've even done viscosity tests on their wives' cooking oil. :)

All in the name of education.

You can learn a helluva lot from that forum.

All in the name of education.

You can learn a helluva lot from that forum.

I have a read a lot in that forum over the passed year or so and it is pretty incredible

Not wanting to sound ignorant, but I always thought that Fram oil filters were "good". What's the reasoning behind saying that Fram filters are bad? I'll typically use either Fram or Purolator, depending on which store I am at at that time.

They are cheaply made. The internal parts of most filters are metal, fram makes them out of cardboard.
The anti-drainback valves inside the fram filters leak, so when you shut the engine off all the oil drains out of the top of the motor, which means everytime you start your engine, it dry starts causing excessive wear and noisy starts.

Use an AC Delco or WIX filter. I use NAPA GOLD, they are made by WIX and are excellent filters.

Not wanting to sound ignorant, but I always thought that Fram oil filters were "good". What's the reasoning behind saying that Fram filters are bad? I'll typically use either Fram or Purolator, depending on which store I am at at that time.

A very poor make on most of their models. I guess the X2 model isn't bad from BlazerLT's reply.

http://www.scuderiaciriani.com/rx7/oil_filter_study/

The site above will give you a little better of understanding why. Good luck

Interesting info. I think I'll be avoiding Fram filters from now on. I worked in a repair garage in the past (10 years ago actually), and Fram was a good name back then. Guess I need to keep up on my reading. Thanks again for the link and the advice.

Interesting info. I think I'll be avoiding Fram filters from now on. I worked in a repair garage in the past (10 years ago actually), and Fram was a good name back then. Guess I need to keep up on my reading. Thanks again for the link and the advice.

Anytime

One of the best oil filter sites is this one.

http://www.oilfilterstudy.com/

Up to date pictures and complete testing.

A true resource for the educated consumer.

One of the best oil filter sites is this one.

http://www.oilfilterstudy.com/

Up to date pictures and complete testing.

A true resource for the educated consumer.

Cool, great site. Thanks

I'm about to do a tune-up on my blazer and I'm not sure what type of oil to put in her. I've searched on here and have been unable to find it.

Also what is O2 Sensor Synthetic Oil used for. Should I try it? If so, what would be the ideal weight??? 10/30 10/40 20/50??

I'm totally lost when it comes to this... My mileage is 88300 and I live in the worst climate in the US, which is the Central Valley in CA so I understand that has to do with how she is to be kept running good.

Thanks again.... :)


5W-30 wt. oil... if you currently use synthetic, ie. Mobil 1, etc., stick with it - DO NOT CHANGE from standard to synthetic or vice versa

PS - take a short trip south to the high desert and we'll enlighten you on a worse climatic scheme :smokin:

5W-30 wt. oil... if you currently use synthetic, ie. Mobil 1, etc., stick with it - DO NOT CHANGE from standard to synthetic or vice versa

PS - take a short trip south to the high desert and we'll enlighten you on a worse climatic scheme :smokin:

There is nothing wrong with switching.

5W-30 wt. oil... if you currently use synthetic, ie. Mobil 1, etc., stick with it - DO NOT CHANGE from standard to synthetic or vice versa

PS - take a short trip south to the high desert and we'll enlighten you on a worse climatic scheme :smokin:

You can switch from synthetic to conventioanal or back and forth all you want.

It won't hurt anything. You are just spreading an old baseless myth.

Synthetics are able to easy mix with conventional and vise versa.

So I brokedown and bought the 15K mile change interval oil with FRAM (I know I know) 7K change oil filter, the X2. I will let you guys know what I think. I am sure I will not notice anything but it is nice to know it contains a ton more cleaning agents then Mobil1's already great synthentic with supersyn. Stuck with the 5W-30 and it only cost $4 more then their regular synthetic. I heard the FRAM X2 is a well built filter, am I correct?

Yes, the X2 is what I use.

The ONLY FRAM you can use, all the others are junk.

Yes, the X2 is what I use.

The ONLY FRAM you can use, all the others are junk.

Thanks BlazerLT. It actually looked like a pretty well constructed filter. I hope the oil is all it is craked up to be. Have you ever used Royal Purple?
I did. I really did notice the engine revving faster and maybe producing some extra horses, but it felt like it was not protecting as well as the Mobil1. I am much more concerned with protection over performance, if I can get both, so be it.

Royal Purple is not a true synthetic.

It is a hyrdrocracked conventional derived from oil.

Royal Purple is not a true synthetic.

It is a hyrdrocracked conventional derived from oil.

Wow did not know this. They are charging a full synthetics price for it. Thanks for the info on that. So in your professional opinion, would you go the entire 15K without changing the oil and filter? Or would you follow some other rule of thumb on this?


On a side note I can't wait to make another trip up Canada, I love the ride up there on Interstate 93, such beautiful countryside and overall a great road trip.

When you buy the X2, make sure the can is sealed. I have used them before, and one time I bought one and someone had put a cheap filter in the can. They got an X2 for $4 and I got a cheap one for $10.

Royal Purple is not a true synthetic.

It is a hyrdrocracked conventional derived from oil.

The guys at BITOG said that it is myth started by one guy and that it is a true a synthetic.

When you buy the X2, make sure the can is sealed. I have used them before, and one time I bought one and someone had put a cheap filter in the can. They got an X2 for $4 and I got a cheap one for $10.

Maybe that is why they are not using the can method anymore ;) I picked up one that is in a sealed box sealed again by plastic wrap. But thank you

The guys at BITOG said that it is myth started by one guy and that it is a true a synthetic.

I went to the website and it is a full synthetic, I will still stick with Mobil1. Although it is pretty funny when you change your oil and other people are there and say holy crap your truck has issues! as the oil comes out purple! Gimmick??? I think so!

I went to the website and it is a full synthetic, I will still stick with Mobil1. Although it is pretty funny when you change your oil and other people are there and say holy crap your truck has issues! as the oil comes out purple! Gimmick??? I think so!

No it is not.

Mobil1 is a Group V whereas Royal Purple is a blend of Group IV and Group V with a Group III carrier.

No it is not.

Mobil1 is a Group V whereas Royal Purple is a blend of Group IV and Group V with a Group III carrier.

Ok so maybe they advertise wrong then. It does say Synthetic but they might just say that menaing it is a blend.

Ok so maybe they advertise wrong then. It does say Synthetic but they might just say that menaing it is a blend.

You don't go by what they have on the bottle.

There are two synthetics,

Synthetic
True Synthetic

Synthetic is made from hyrdrocracked conventional oil and can be a group III or group IV.

True synthetic is PAO or synthetic ester based or a mixture of both. They are derived from a lab.

You don't go by what they have on the bottle.

There are two synthetics,

Synthetic
True Synthetic

Synthetic is made from hyrdrocracked conventional oil and can be a group III or group IV.

True synthetic is PAO or synthetic ester based or a mixture of both. They are derived from a lab.

Makes more sense to me now. Now I know what to look for. Is there any site that can tell you in like a side by side comaprison what oil is synthetic and what is a true synthetic? Thanks for setting me straight.

Only True synthetics are:

Mobil1
Redline
Amsoil
Esso XD-3 Synthetic
Scheaffer

Only True synthetics are:

Mobil1
Redline
Amsoil
Esso XD-3 Synthetic
Scheaffer

Awesome thanks!