Help with matching numbers

I have a 68 Dodge Dart GTS 340 that I think is all original but I can't make hide-nor-hair of all the numbers I find on the car.

Just what exactly is "matching numbers" and what numbers have to match?

I have numbers on the dash, fender tag, left front engine block, and transmission. All are different except for some that reflect what year, model, and engine is in the car.

Confused in Houston...

Mark

Numbers matching typically refers to having the original motor and transmission in the car and strictly numbers matching cars would also have the correct date codes on the other major components (rear-end, heads, carb, manifolds, distributor, etc.) The engine and the tranny are the only components that were stamped with the portion of the VIN that is the consecutive unit number. Those last six digits should be present on the engine block stamping pad as well as the transmission in a numbers matching car (as well as the body - radiator support and trunk rail on a B Body, not positive on an A Body).
If your engine and transmission are stamped with another 6 digit number that isn't the same as your last 6 digits on your VIN, then they have been changed. The next best thing is to have the correct components, preferably with the correct year or better yet a date code that fits with the production date on your trim tag.

Hope this helps,
Dave

Wait a minute!
You said the numbers are "all different"? The number on the trim tag definitely needs to match the VIN # or something fishy is going on.

Dave

Dash = ls23p8b209397
fender tag = ls23 52 538 b20 148097
front engine block = dw34022920029
trans = pk2892032j22532536

I've had this car for 20 years. The prior owner claimed it was all original and that he was the second owner. He had a stable of extremely nice muscle cars including a super bird, aar cuda, 69 rr, and 63 something or other.

At the time I had no reason to doubt his claim.

I read that the vin is stamped on the right side of the 340 block just above the pan but I can't find anything there.

OK,
I'm going to see what I can make out from your info, but what I can see off the top of my head is that the VIN indicates a HI-PO 340 car.
The vin # should be located on the passenger side of the engine, just to the rear of the engine mount, immediately above the oil pan.
In addition there should be an identification number immediately below the front of the driver's side head. The third, fourth and fifth digits are the engine displacement.

Dave

Mark,
Sorry, all the info I have on hand is for '69's and '70's B-Bodies. Did you check under the rear seat for the broadcast sheet?

Dave

I know about how hard it is to get information on the 68 production cars. I have a call into Galan Govier to get better information.

I did talk to one company that does nothing but restoration and he checked the numbers telling me that all the numbers "match". He congradulated me on what a fine car I had and how rare an original "numbers matching" mopar is.

Of course, I still have concerns but that's why I called Galan.

I do have the left half of the broadcast sheet. I recall when I bought the car many moons ago that the whole thing was behind the rear seat but for the life of me I can't seem to find the other half.

I did look on the right hand side for the vin # but couldn't see anyplace where it could be stamped. I will try again tonight after work. The only stamped number I've found so far is on the drivers side at the front of the block just below the head.

Thing is about the vin # and it's placement, if this car was manufactured in 1967 it might not have the vin on the block. I've read that this was the transition period when manufacturers were just starting to use them.

The other problem I've run into is that of Chrysler when they were in the dark days before Lee rescued them. Lots of data was lost or not even kept then.

Thank you for your time in helping me solve this mystery. I think I'm on the right track and with the help of fellow Mopar lovers I will.

I put a picture of the car in the members gallery. This picture was taken just before I put it up on blocks 14 years ago.

Sorry I couldn't help more. Calling Galen is definitely the easiest way to find out for sure. I don't have to tell you that it'd be great if you found the other half of the broadcast sheet, right? :)

Take care and good luck,
Dave

Galen doesn't do anything for free, and he's got a waiting list eh...

Galen doesn't do anything for free, and he's got a waiting list eh...

No he doesn't and I'm painfully aware of the waiting list situation (it's been 6 weeks now for me), but there is little doubt that what he tells you is correct. Just as important, perhaps, is the fact that everyone else is aware of his credibility as well so having him verify your car really does add something to the value. For this reason, I wasn't too concerned about spending a $100.00 or so to get him to decode my car. After all, I expect to spend several hundred times that amount before I'm done with my resto.

Cheers,
Dave