Your Car Audio System


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ngsm13
04-13-2005, 11:55 PM
You sure? I was told that humans can't be inside a closed chamber @ 165db or higher. Bascially it will make your nuts implode.

100% Positive, I'm going back down to Scottie's this weekend. I'll try and see if his friend still has the video! It all depends on the FREQUENCY fellas...

Scottie burps @51hz, and it was 170.2dB's on the TermLab sensor.

NG

ngsm13
04-13-2005, 11:59 PM
RE Comps
"rampage" flea market 8" woofer sealed...
"rampage" fleam market 300w amp.

Report cards are here friday...3 'A's and 3 'B's...well and a C on my latin internet class....hopefully my rents will give me some cash... if my dad sticks to his word because i took on such clases and a shit load of sports i should be getting $150. putting me a measly $100 away form my XXX18...

Eh...

Wish I was a little punk who got paid for grades, I woulda been rich. Straight A's all through highschool, Graduated Valedictorian of my class with a 4.55 GPA. Was a National Merit Commended Scholar, and got a 35 on my ACT. :( I coulda been rich...

NG

bumpinstang77
04-14-2005, 08:06 AM
Noah is teh nerd! and yea poncho..... bass won't hurt people at any level. Nick Wright has sat in a 175db car.

ngsm13
04-14-2005, 08:35 AM
Noah is teh nerd! and yea poncho..... bass won't hurt people at any level. Nick Wright has sat in a 175db car.

Tis true, tis true...

NG

balls_to_the_wall
04-14-2005, 02:38 PM
35 on your ACT's....you one smart man, (although I thought you were smart before), hell i was happy with my 26, although I despise tests.....And im happy wiht my 3.87 GPA (out of 4.0) though highschool........

CBFryman
04-14-2005, 03:18 PM
hmmm,but did you take chem honors your sophomore year and geometry honors along with cross country, soccer, track, work, and clubs?

balls_to_the_wall
04-14-2005, 07:50 PM
Smart bastards :flipa:

sr20de4evr
04-14-2005, 09:23 PM
geometry, hahaha what a blowoff class....jesus I took that in like 7th grade, that class is nothing to be proud of, lol.

I only took the ACT once and scored a 33 which was fine for me, once you get into college the SAT, ACT, highschool gpa, etc is 100% meaningless.

balls_to_the_wall
04-14-2005, 09:35 PM
course your an electricial engineer, anyone in engineering has to be somewhat smart....Calc 1,2,&3, Engineering physics 1&2, differential equations, matrix theory, kinda weed out the idiots

(course im gonna be majoring in EE next year when im at Kansas State University)

Diceman83
04-14-2005, 09:54 PM
Those classes are pretty much standard for all engineering, I'm majoring in mechanical engineering, and I've done all those classes. Good stuff.

ngsm13
04-14-2005, 10:40 PM
hmmm,but did you take chem honors your sophomore year and geometry honors along with cross country, soccer, track, work, and clubs?

I took Honors Chem AND AP Chem, AP English, AP French (5th year), AP Physics, AP Calculus, (Scored 4, 5, 4, 5, 5 accordingly ;) ) was Editor in Chief of my school newspaper, President of the French Club, President of the Esteem Team (peer-prevention group), Played Varsity Golf, and ran Varsity Track. I also held a job since I was at Penn Station.

I'm not bragging at all, just stating facts since I guess some1 felt the need to bring shit up :confused: :screwy: :rolleyes:

NG

PS: Oh...and I'm currently getting paid about $900/quarter to go to college...scholarship refund check ;)

balls_to_the_wall
04-15-2005, 02:24 PM
Noah, you are a fricking MACHINE!!!

CBFryman
04-15-2005, 06:07 PM
geometry=gheyly easy but required...and because i went to privet school i couldnt take algebra in 8th grade.... algebra II honors next year along with AP physics and then AP chem my senior year... the n pre calc and maybe trig at the same time... but you should have seen my grades before this...lmao... history/english i suck at....as you can probably tell from ym spelling/grammar....

ponchonutty
04-15-2005, 07:37 PM
Tis true, tis true...

NG

43 - 73 Cycles Per Second (Hz) - lack of visual acuity, IQ scores fall to 77% of normal, distortion of spatial orientation, poor muscular coordination, loss of equilibrium, slurred speech, and blackout.
1 - 10 Cycles Per Second (Hz) - "Lethal infrasonic pitch lies in the 7 cycle range. Small amplitude increases affect human behavior in this range. Intellectual activity is first inhibited, blocked, and then destroyed. As the amplitude is increased, several disconcerting responses have been noted. These responses begin a complete neurological interference. The action of the medulla is physiologically blocked, its autonomic functions cease." (source; the Sonic Weapon of Vladimir Gavreau, by Gerry Vassilatos)


50 - 100 Cycles Per Second (Hz) - at 150 dB and higher, "intolerable sensations in the chest and thoracic region can be produced - even with the ears protected. Other physiological changes that can occur include chest all vibration and some respiratory rhythm changes in human subjects, together with hypopharyngeal fullness (gagging). The frequency range between 50 and 100 Hz also produces mild nausea and giddiness at levels of 150 - 155 dB, at which point subjective tolerance is reached. At 150 to 155 dB (0.63 to 1.1 kPA), respiration-related effects include substernal discomfort, coughing, severe substernal pressure, choking respiration, and hypopharyngeal discomfort." (source; 'Acoustic Trauma: Bioeffects of Sound,' by Alex Davies)
7 Cycles Per Second (Hz) - The most profound effects at this infrasonic level occur here. Seven Hz "corresponds with the median alpha-rhythm frequencies of the brain. It is also commonly alleged that this is the resonant frequency of the body's organs and hence organ rupture and death can occur at high-intensity exposures." (source; 'Acoustic Trauma: Bioeffects of Sound,' by Alex Davies)


Scientific Applications and Research Associates (SARA) - This agency's alleged infrasound research showed, "infrasound at 110 - 130 dB would cause intestinal pain and severe nausea. Extreme levels of annoyance or distraction would result from minutes of exposure to levels 90 to 120 dB at low frequencies (5 to 200 Hz), strong physical trauma and damage to tissues at 140 - 150 dB, and instantaneous blastwave type trauma at above 170 dB. At low frequencies, resonance's in the body would cause hemorrhage and spasm/ in the mid-audio range (0.5 to 2.5 kHz), resonance's in the air cavities of the body would cause nerve irritation, tissue trauma and heating; high audio and ultrasound frequencies (5 to 30 kHz) would cause heating up to lethal body temperatures, tissue burns, and dehydration; and at high frequencies, or with short pulses, bubbles would form from cavitation and micro-lesions in tissue would evolve." (source; 'Acoustic Trauma: Bioeffects of Sound,' by Alex Davies)



Need I say more?

Do you punks know that they use soundwaves to make gallstones to explode so they can be passed naturally?

CBFryman
04-15-2005, 08:45 PM
ive heard rumors of 120dB at 13Hz making someones lung colapse....extremely loud low tones can be deadly....

germanyt
04-16-2005, 12:52 PM
also, i think it is at 148dB at freqs lower than 25 hz your blood starts to coagulate. (plasma and blood cells begin to separate) this is what causes severe bruising in corpses. after 12 hours (i think) of being dead your blood is nearly completely separated. soundwaves are capable of doing it in 3 minutes.

ponchonutty
04-16-2005, 08:13 PM
Now, I've also heard that loud, low tones do not effect the human ear like high pitched sounds do. I do notice that I can handle loud bass more over loud mids and highs.

GSteg
04-16-2005, 09:25 PM
our ears are more sensative at around 2-3khz than sat 30hz. 120db of 2khz is going to sure annoy the hell out of us more than 150db at 30hz :D

ngsm13
04-17-2005, 12:09 AM
Now, I've also heard that loud, low tones do not effect the human ear like high pitched sounds do. I do notice that I can handle loud bass more over loud mids and highs.

DUH?!?!?!

LMFAO..."punk"

NG

ngsm13
04-17-2005, 12:12 AM
ive heard rumors of 120dB at 13Hz making someones lung colapse....extremely loud low tones can be deadly....

Too bad it can't be "loud" cuz you literally can't hear it.

NG

notladstyle@yahoo.
04-17-2005, 12:17 AM
also, i think it is at 148dB at freqs lower than 25 hz your blood starts to coagulate. (plasma and blood cells begin to separate) this is what causes severe bruising in corpses. after 12 hours (i think) of being dead your blood is nearly completely separated. soundwaves are capable of doing it in 3 minutes.

so i was watching mythbusters last night and if you have ever seen the episode im talkin about, you know this is bs.

beattsme
04-17-2005, 10:39 PM
yup thats true

germanyt
04-19-2005, 01:09 AM
just something i heard or read somewhere. not sure how credible it is

pimprolla112
04-21-2005, 12:20 AM
For right now i have 2-12" polk gnx-12 or something like that there like 8 years old in a shitty sealed box. I have a profile ca 400m running at 2 ohms at half power between 75-100 watts, and i can kill a dual 12 audiobahn with 1000 watts. Front stage i have 2-4x6 2 way mbquarts and rear i have 2-6x9 mb quarts running with a ca 640 its the beater system from hell. I have the good shit in the works right now.

v10_viper
06-30-2005, 01:41 AM
HU's - Panasonic
Subs - AF guys got me obsessed with Adire and RE
Amps - Prolly Kicker
Speaker's - Kind of undecided but also Kicker, I can't say that I've personally heard too many, except Kicker's top of the line components, and they are crisp.

Since you cannot have a stereo system without a cd player I'll just vote for Pana.

hks_kansei
07-03-2005, 07:22 AM
my car has a Clarion stereo (well, a radio only), and 2 Clarion 4in speakers (about 2 watts each)

it's the original stereo, from the factory, back in 1982.

i know it should probably be in a museum

UndercoverPunk
07-28-2005, 11:04 PM
H/U: Blaupunkt San Francisco CD72
Crossover: Coustic XM6
Tweeters: Vifa 1" Textile Domes
Mids: Adire Audio Extremis
Tweeter Amp: Kicker KX200.2
Mid Amp: Kicker KX650.4
.....that's it ATM

nlghtcrawler
07-29-2005, 03:15 AM
AMP: Jensen 800 watt, refurbished by Kicker
Subs: Kicker CVR
Others: 2 4x6 Sony Xplod, 2 6x9 Sony Xplod
HU: Sony Xplod

Scootzilla
08-05-2005, 11:19 PM
Jensen 40x4 CD,DVD,MP3 Deck w/Fully Motorized 7" Widescreen LCD
Alpine 900W MOSFET Class D Mono Digital Amplifier with Adjustable Crossover
Power Acoustik FUBR Series 12" Dual-Voice-Coil 4-Ohm Subwoofer 200oz Magnet 1800 watts max 800 rms
MTX 4guage Wire
4x Alpine 6" x 9" 2-Way Coaxial Car Speakers with Hybrid Fiber Cones

sr20de4evr
08-06-2005, 07:05 PM
the result of mainstream marketing gimmicks at its finest....

pimprolla112
08-06-2005, 11:08 PM
What can i say im a whore when it comes to good deals. ca400m and 2 12 inch subs in a box 100 bucks cant to much better than that.

CBFryman
08-07-2005, 01:35 PM
Too bad it can't be "loud" cuz you literally can't hear it.

NG

even though this is a 4 month old post...

YOU CAN STILL SENCE IT :sly:

Avalanche 18
BX1205D
6@27Hz

kcg795
09-06-2005, 08:07 PM
Well, I'm almost done building my system. Here's what I got.

Deck: Pioneer DEH-5 CD deck that won't give me my CD back sometimes! A new Pioneer DEH-P7700MP is on it's way though.

Speakers: 4" front and 5 1/4" rear Pioneer TS-G series with foam baffles and 14 gauge wire.

Bass blockers: 300HZ front and 150HZ rear.

Subwoofer: Visonik Dual 10" Bandpass V103BP

Amplifier: Profile HA1000 2 channel. Wired in stereo to subwoofer.

This is kind of a budget system. Pretty much less than $800. But I am very happy with the results. This thing thumps like no tomorrow and sounds great. Should sound even better when my new stereo arrives.

L|_|da
09-07-2005, 03:10 PM
not to shabby non to shabby at all

kcg795
09-08-2005, 02:03 AM
My DEH-P7700MP arrived and got it installed. Love the OEL display. I don't have to look at it head-on just to read what it says.

http://kc.cognitivelube.com/NewStereo.jpg

CBFryman
09-09-2005, 04:04 PM
scuffed up dash...

kcg795
09-09-2005, 08:30 PM
I know. I can't get the trim ring on. I was hoping that bezel would fit over the stereo better if I dremeled the hole a little bit. But that didn't work. The van has 210,000 miles on it, rebuilt engine. So things are a little banged up anyway. I can get another bezel from the junkyard and do without the trim ring. I think it looks fine without it. And they are right about the Super Tuner III D+. The reception on FM radio is a hell of a lot better than on the other Pioneer I was using. Here's my amp and my sub. Got the amp under the middle seat.

http://kc.cognitivelube.com/SubandAmp/Amp.jpg

http://kc.cognitivelube.com/SubandAmp/SubandAmp%20001.jpg

Yeah. It definently exceeds my expectations.

CBFryman
09-09-2005, 08:55 PM
eh, for an old beater van then it doesnt matter. bandpass though? or was that correctly built by an installer (unless your hella good and like using al lthe fancy carpet and all)

kcg795
09-09-2005, 09:35 PM
I got the subwoofer already like that. It would've cost more to buy a box and the subwoofers separately and install them. Altogether, it's a $630 stereo system. I thought about getting a power capacitor, and still thinking about it. But my headlights don't dim at all. I also chose bandpass because they are the most efficiant type of subs out there. I just want it to use as little of power as possible and still sound good.

pimprolla112
09-10-2005, 12:14 AM
Man where u pay 630 for all that. You can get the visonik dual bandpass for 130 new and that amp would only cost about 100. Not trying to rag on you or anything but hey my firsy sustem was a beater system from hell spent about 700 for 2 infinity perfects, a dual sealed box, a ca600, set of mbquart6x9's, infinity refernece 4" components and a panasonic hu. Only thing that killed me was the hu system was worth more than the car and hit so fucking hard, but fried one of the subs and then wrecked the car. The joy of ebay payed about 2/3 of the retail price on just about everything. Nice HU thought i like the digital volt meter. Dont even consider a cap do a search on the big 3 suppose to be just as good.

kcg795
09-10-2005, 12:53 AM
I did pay $130 for that sub and $110 for the amp. I would never pay $630 for just sub and amp. That $630 paid for my entire stereo system, speakers and all.

Yeah. I'm very pleased with this HU as well. I kept looking at these regular LED display units that were less than $200. Then I looked at the next one up that was an OEL display. Then I thought "I'm getting that one." Then I decided to take a look at the next one up. Hmmmm. I thought, well, this one that costs more has an automatic sound levelizer and displays volts. Well, I'm curious to know what my voltage reads and I don't want to have to keep messing with my volume control when I stop and go. So I thought "I'm getting THIS ONE!!!" So, I did. :D

What's the big 3 you're talking about? I was gonna get a capacitor off eBay.

L|_|da
09-10-2005, 10:55 AM
search for big 3 on here. dont get a cap, there jsut a faux solution.

pimprolla112
09-10-2005, 08:42 PM
1) Battery negative to chassis
2) Alternator to battery positive
3) Chassis to engine

thats should be it.

http://forum.sounddomain.com/forum/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=5;t=007801

pimprolla112
09-10-2005, 08:42 PM
1) Battery negative to chassis
2) Alternator to battery positive
3) Chassis to engine

thats should be it.

http://forum.sounddomain.com/forum/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=5;t=007801

kcg795
09-10-2005, 09:17 PM
Ok. Here's what I got.

New Negative cable - CHECK
Alternator to battery postive - Just to the harness.
Chassis to engine - CHECK Just with leftover 10 gauge though.

Ok. My alternator is connected to the harness where it's originally at. Should I disconnect it from there and run it to the battery? I believe I have a 60 amp alternator and it was rebuilt, but my idiot lights flicker a lot even though the damn thing is charging and reads the proper voltage. Schucks has a 70 amp alternator for my van and doesn't cost a whole lot. If I run a wire from the alternator to the battery, I should use a fusible link, right?

Oh. When I ran 10 gauge ground cable from the chassis to the alternator and to the engine, it did make a big difference in how it starts, how it runs, and how it charges.

What gauge should I use from the alternator to the battery? I have leftover 4 gauge that came with my amplifier wiring kit. But I won't use it unless you guys say it's alright.

sr20de4evr
09-10-2005, 09:34 PM
You should use at least 4awg for all of those, if not larger, I'm surprised 10awg made any difference at all. I'm personally using 4awg straight from the alt to the batt + (with a fuse), 4awg from the engine block to the chassis, and 0awg from the batt - to the chassis.

L|_|da
09-10-2005, 10:28 PM
im re doing mine w. 0 gauge all around, im got light dim w/ only a 250 W amp... my next amp/sub is gonna shut my car off

pimprolla112
09-10-2005, 11:21 PM
Damn thats not good lights dimming from 250 watts. i shut my truck off when i put 4 amps in it once it was a total of i think 1200rms for 3 subs and 4 speakers, that was before i bought the yellow top. Just remember one thing the bigger the wire the better and i doubt 10 gauge would make much of a difference usually stock is 10 or 8 on older vehicles with bigger motors. My old car had 12 gauge for the grounds. Im going to upgrade mine as soon as i get my truck back on the road with 0 gauge for the big3 and the amps. Should be nice. Ive been planning to buy my new system for a while but man i have so much other shit going on its retarded. 18"XXX RE, either hifonics or ppi 1500.1 amp (started looking into cadence amps), 2 sets of 6.5 inch components either RE XXX, CDT's, or kodas, amp from the same company i get for the sub for the speakers about 75x4 rms or 300 watts and either a PANASONIC CQ-VD7001U or a PANASONIC CQ-C9901U still debating whether or not i want the dvd screen or just a HU. Then im looking at monster cable RCA's my truck puts off so much engine whine. 180 amp alternator at idle and alot of sound deadening either edesigns or dynamat. Then a nice new yellow top optima battery with trunk mount and about 125 for a box. Ends up beeing between 2500 and 3000 so it could be a little while before i get everything setup and it should be pretty damn nice.

kcg795
09-10-2005, 11:24 PM
My friend had a Geo Metro and I used my dad's Lumina to demonstrate what his Geo Metro MIGHT do with a really powerful stereo system. If you've driven a Lumina, they have VERY touchy brakes and they got very decent power in the engine. So I used both to demonstrate the effects of very large bass notes hitting with that little 3 cylinder engine. He didn't really appreciate almost hitting his face on the dashboard. But he got the point. :D

These are really good tips, by the way. This is simple shit! If I can modify the wiring diagram for my headlights and do a successful rewire job while bypassing most of the van's old electrical system and end up with brighter headlights, I can definently do this.

sr20de4evr
09-11-2005, 03:18 AM
im re doing mine w. 0 gauge all around, im got light dim w/ only a 250 W amp... my next amp/sub is gonna shut my car off

Sounds like you have a retarded amount of clipping to me

L|_|da
09-11-2005, 11:52 AM
how the hell can you tell from what...?

sr20de4evr
09-11-2005, 02:13 PM
Decause a properly set 250 watt amp will not cause dimming on any car, your headlights and radiator fan combined draw more than that.

kcg795
09-11-2005, 04:23 PM
My old Fujitsu that was originally in my van hooked up to that Fujitsu equalizer made the headlights dim worse than my new stereo system I got now. It also had its own sub under the dash. I ended up hooking that to one of those $20 Roadmaster bass tubes from Wal-Mart. It sounded alright. I was stuck with radio though. The tape player didn't work. So I ended up soldering some RCA cables to the cassette's line-in circuit after trying to find it. Then I hooked my RCA Lyra to that and was only able to enjoy 1 or 2 CD's worth of music.

My amp does 160W/channel with 320W/channel of peak power. So that would be 320 total RMS and 640 total peak to run both woofers in my subwoofer. I have to be really cranking that son of a bitch 'til my ears just start to bleed to even notice any dimming. So having said that, I'm willing to believe that underpowered amps can actually draw more power than amps that have plenty of power. I made sure I can get the most powerful amp I could afford. I got the gain on mine about 1/4 of the way and it sounds pretty damn good. I'm still tweaking here and there to get it just right. Also remember that an underpowered amp can damage your sub. So it doesn't hurt to try to get more power than you need, or at least meet its power requirements.

CBFryman
09-11-2005, 05:51 PM
my BX1205D doesnt make my headlights dim at all but it kills my dome light, but not the dash or the radio...so i dunno what up with that (the voltage doesnt even drop much on hard hits)... and all i have is 1/0 Bat to Chassis and Alternator to ground. i never got around to alt to bat.

L|_|da
09-11-2005, 08:43 PM
mine dims all the F*ing time

Cyrix_2k
10-29-2005, 02:30 PM
Pioneer HU, Dayton woofer/tweeters, Memphis Subs, Lightning Audio Amps (NOT BOLT series)

sittdogg1981
11-09-2005, 10:07 PM
I have a sounddtream tarantula tr880/2(880 rms), running a jbl wgti 15 right now, and alpine head unit. Ive just started putting this system together so I have only stock high end. the 15 is in a shitty box. I have a lot of work to do. I still hit 138.4 db at a local shop even ghetto rigged. My entire trunk is sound deadened though which helps. I plan on selling my jbl for a soundstream splx 12 or 15.

I voted alpine to be the best. but only as far as head unit and amps go. alpine has some of the best sound quality that I have tried out of 5 brands, and heard 10 others. As far as subs go thats hard. for super spl comp. Hifonics golith, soundstream xxx, digital design 9500, Resonant Engineering. as far as every day listening but pretty damn loud mtx 9500, memphis audio mojo or lvs, soundstream. alpine is the as far as soundquality goes in my opinion.

twicecustom
11-12-2005, 03:45 PM
I have got 2 alpine type r 12's, 1 alpine mrd-m1000 amp, 2 alpine type r 6 1/2 speakers in doors and 2- 6 1/2on rear decklid, and an alpine cda-9833 in my 93 accord.

dantheman8328
11-12-2005, 06:29 PM
how do you like the alpine components? i was thinking of getting some of those for my front soundstage sometime

micb3rd
11-16-2005, 02:04 PM
Pioneer DEH 4700MP Head unit
Alpine V12 MRV T-757. Birthsheeted at 107 WRMS per channel at 12v.
RE Audio 6.5 comps.
Morel CR-103 Tweeters.
Crystal CAM 300.2 600 WRMS at 12.5v.
Infinity Perfect 10.1 Ported 1.1 cf net tuned to 26hz.

Soon to go in for testing.

Dual 12 enclosure and a pair of Arc Audio 12's, new sub amp should give around 1000 WRMS at 12v and more at 14.4.

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