My EGR valve will not work properly when vacuum line is hooked up to it. It hesitates and acts like it will stall. It is brand new and runs fine when line is not attached, but I need it to work properly to pass emission. Any help out there?
Thanks a bunch,
Brandon

I haven't had my Ranger long enough to know if this applies specifically or not (basing this comment on my experience with my Lincoln), but most of the time the carbon buildup will extend beyond the valve itself. When you replace it you should also inspect and clean the lines and the EGR channel.

If you have a spare $18, you should get the Chilton manual for the Ranger. I picked one up the other day and it was really stuffed full of information, detailed procedures and pictures. Much, much, much better than the Haynes manuals for about the same price.

Follow vacuum line from EGR to a solenoid it is connected to. This is the EGR vent solenoid. There shouls be no vacuum going through it at idle. Unplug wiring on solenoid and see if vacuum stops. If it does, the solenoid is OK and there is a wiring concern between the solenoid and PCM. If vacuum still flows with electrical connection unplugged, replace vent solenoid.

Hey there. THank you very much for replying back with the helpful EGR valve suggestion. I did that test you were talking about today, and there was in fact still vacuum when I unplugged the solenoid. So I went to Ford, bought the new vacuum solenoid for 47 bucks, and will put it on tomorrow. I'm crossing my fingers. Thanks again!
- Brandon

Im not too sue how this whole psting thing works yet, but I wanted to make sure I thanked Way2old for his help with the EGR problem. Hopefully my other post worked. THanks again!

Hey. Im not too sure if the channel was cleared of the carbon. I actually had my mechanic to the job for me because I was having a bunch of other stuff done on the truck as well. I did however buy a new vacuum solenoid today and will be putting it on tomorrow. I also bought a CHilton, and I agree that it is definitely better than Haynes. Thanks again and Ill keep you updated on the results!
- BRandon

I just hope it cures your problem. We appreciate the thanks. That is why we spend "spare time" in this big hyper-garage to try to help someone. Hope it cures your troubles and you have many miles of happy driving. Bad thing about fixing cars is, if you do it right, you don't get to talk to the customer very often. :grinyes:

Hey! I put the new vacuum solenoid on two days ago and it solved the problem. I brought the truck to about 3 difff mechanics and they couldnt solve the problem. I just typed the problem to you and u solved it over the net. Incredible! Well the EGR now works and I fixed it myself. Thanks for saving me the money.....AND the truck passed emissions yesterday and I was able to get it registered. Thanks for all the help.
-Brandon

Send me cold beer :evillol:

I have an 01' ranger 2.5, my check engine light came on and I got a diagnostic test at Auto Zone, they told me it was my EGR vavle. So I bought a new one for $34.99, and read what people wrote on here about fixing it. I was told to make sure I blew my vacume lines out when i changed it, well, i bought some "key board duster", you know the spray stuff in a little can for like $4, and blew out all the vacume lines I could find, as well as the existing EGR, and before I went through with changing it, i turned my truck on and the check engine light was off, I drove around for little bit, turned some RPM's and it is still off. My truck only has 38,800 on it, but who ever has an EGR problem should try this, it'll save you about $40. (RiggerWings@aol.com)